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Don't even need to install eliminators. They're just resistors in the heating circuit of the lambda sensor. So they don't change the signal received by the ecu. Just unplug the sensors and go for a short ride to see if you like tbe change. Don't leave them unplugged for to long though because...

You're good. The upper and lower fork leg can rotate freely so it doesn't matter.

There is an easier way. Loosen the pinch bolts of the front axle. Grab the front brake and pump the forks a couple of time. Tighten the pinch bolts. 9 times out of 10 this will do the trick

My tire looked the same. Cleaned up a bit when I raised the pressures a bit. Also I think braking into a corner causes this kind of wear.

Just installed the arrow slip on. Great fit and finish. Really nice quality. Sounds a bit rattly with the insert in. With the insert out the sound is nice and deep. We'll see if it's too loud on the commute tomorrow morning. Looking forward to it.

That's why I suggested to put a switch in the sensor lead. That will also kill the tc on the fly.

Those are the ones. I'm not very hard on tires, and pretty ocd about tire pressure. If it wasn't for the front cupping badly I would have squeezed out another 2/3000.

Changed the tires. The bridgestones were shot after 20000km. Got some nice e07s now. The rear was a real bugger to change.

I tried that but whatever fuse I pulled the speedo stopped working. Mind you that was on the centre stand not actual riding. Does that also turn of the tc? Cheers

You could put a switch in line with the front wheel sensor. That will trip the abs and tc. And as an added bonus your speedo keeps working. I still need to test this though so ymmv

The St has usd forks I'm fairly positive there are no braces for usd forks. On conventional suspension they really tighten the front up though. I have a rallemoto damper on the DR good bit of kit, saved me a couple of times and they make on for a ST as well. It's on the farkle to do list.

Replaced the rear brake pads. Took me longer to look up the torque value than actually changing the pads. ::013::Talk about design done right!!

Changed the engine oil+filter and the final drive oil.

E=mc squared has nothing to do with suspension unless you ride a nuclear powered ST close to the speed of light ;) I think you mean Ek (kinetic energy)=1/2*m (mass)*v(speed) squared.

If it physically fits it will work. The provided map might not be optimal for your bike but you can download the right one from the dynojet site. Or better still have it mapped on a dyno. The pcv does not communicate with the ecu. It just interrupts the signal to the injectors and substitutes it...

I just use a little bit so I can screw them all the way in by hand and then tighten them the last bit. Obviously there's never any oil left on them when I take them out and for what it's worth of the 100 or so plugs I changed on my cars/bikes I never had one seize. Dunno maybe just luck...

I just use a bit of engine oil.

Just loosen the top fork clamp bolts and the front axle pinch bolts. Cycle the suspension a couple of times and torque everything to spec. While you're there check the torque on your lower triple tree as well. Straightening your forks with a tree is a good trail side method. But you'll keep a...

I suppose having a softer spring and more hydraulic control gives you a larger range of damping adjustment.

I'm surprised by the amount of people that shoot their bike when they break down. :P