mrpete64
Member
Do most of you use never seize when you replace your plugs?
Mr. Pete-------->
aging hippie
Mr. Pete-------->
aging hippie
never seize on new plugs?
- Thread starter mrpete64
- Start date
Using anti-seize or other lubricants on the spark plugs may result in an incorrect torque setting (higher). I think I read somewhere NGK does not recommend it.
edit: yup, here it is: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf
edit: yup, here it is: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf
Berg_Donk
Active Member
I use nickel anti seize on all plugs in all motors, but yet to swap my S10 plugs. Worked for me for many years without issue, and they all come out easy. Nickel is higher temp than the more common copper, and less likely to participate in an electrolytic reaction in there.
bikerdoc
Doctor, Paramedic, NP, (ex)Firefighter (SSO)
::026::sander said:
Berg_Donk
Active Member
Engine oil isn't as heat resistant and can turn to carbon, and seizing the plugs in the thread. I woulld put them in dry before using oil. I also use a decent silicone lube like CRC, on the plug boots, makes them easy to get on and off.
I just use a little bit so I can screw them all the way in by hand and then tighten them the last bit. Obviously there's never any oil left on them when I take them out and for what it's worth of the 100 or so plugs I changed on my cars/bikes I never had one seize. Dunno maybe just luck. Definitely use silicone on the boots, helps them seal as well.Berg_Donk said:
No need to add anything to NGK plugs.
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EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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Certainly valid points in the NGK bulletin. Also good practice, when you observe someone using a torque wrench to install spark plugs, whack them on the back of the head with a rolled up newspaper.
Crushing a crush washer is about feel, not a specified torque rating. Most folks that have installed a few dozen spark plugs have a pretty good feel for how tight.
If anti-seize makes you happy, use it, but don't over do it. It only takes a little. I can say that I've never had difficulty getting a spark plug out that I put anti-seize on. And I have had to repair a few spark plug hole threads from people using torque wrenches to install plugs. But hey, I'm just some guy on the internet, so that tidbit is worth what you paid for it.
Crushing a crush washer is about feel, not a specified torque rating. Most folks that have installed a few dozen spark plugs have a pretty good feel for how tight.
If anti-seize makes you happy, use it, but don't over do it. It only takes a little. I can say that I've never had difficulty getting a spark plug out that I put anti-seize on. And I have had to repair a few spark plug hole threads from people using torque wrenches to install plugs. But hey, I'm just some guy on the internet, so that tidbit is worth what you paid for it.
I agree on the torque wrench use. For some reason a lot of DIYer's have some kind of obession with the torque wrench. About the only place I ever use a TW is on head bolts, everything else goes by feel. Plus, you have to have a feel for using a TW. You can't just set the thing and pull until you get a click. A lot of threads have been stripped by a touque wrench.
Dry and use a quality torque wrench.
Mark R.
Member
Yes, and as Eric says, no torque wrench.mrpete64 said:
My plugs aren't in it long enough to seize up. Put in snug them up, ride and repeat the next year.
jbrown
Active Member
I can't stop myself from expressing my amazement that people are claiming torquing a spark plug to the specified value is a bad thing!
When armed with a correct torque spec and an accurate torque wrench, it is clear to me that you should use the torque wrench. If the specification calls for a certain amount of crush, then it wouldn't be a torque spec, and you'd need to always have a new crush washer.
Certainly, any lubrication affects the clamping force at a given torque, but expecting to guess at the correct adjustment by feel can never be as good as knowing the correct lubricated torque value to use.
Having satisfied my need to gasp through my keyboard, I'll add that spark plug tightness is way down the list of things to be concerned about (unless you have a Ford modular engine that requires a special tool to remove the often seized plugs).
When armed with a correct torque spec and an accurate torque wrench, it is clear to me that you should use the torque wrench. If the specification calls for a certain amount of crush, then it wouldn't be a torque spec, and you'd need to always have a new crush washer.
Certainly, any lubrication affects the clamping force at a given torque, but expecting to guess at the correct adjustment by feel can never be as good as knowing the correct lubricated torque value to use.
Having satisfied my need to gasp through my keyboard, I'll add that spark plug tightness is way down the list of things to be concerned about (unless you have a Ford modular engine that requires a special tool to remove the often seized plugs).
What amazes me is how many people know more than the factory that designs and builds the spark plugs. NGK couldn't make it very much clearer, do not lube their spark plugs.
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mrpete64
Member
Thanks for your insight(s).
Mr. Pete-------->
aging hippie
Mr. Pete-------->
aging hippie
Donk
Well-Known Member
I always put a tiny bit of anti seize on and never have had a problem. If NGK says don't and you're using NGK plus then don't. Got a feeling the bike will be fine either way. I started using anti seize back in the air cooled days and on those engines it made a big difference. IMO torque wrenches are a good thing.