Yamaha's response to "Hard Start"

markjenn

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autoteach said:
If it is solved by going WOT after 2-3 seconds of no start cranking, why would anyone spend money on fixing it? No one complained this much about carbed bikes where you had to know if you need choke, no choke, throttle, operating the choke lever, starter button, throttle...
Given that there is no known fix, I don't think owners have the option to spend money fixing it. As far as Yamaha spending money to find the problem and fix it, owners today have an expectation that a new 2012+, fuel-injected motorcycle should start reliably in any conditions by the process in the OM without special starting regimens or special knowledge of a secret flooded-bike protocol. (I say secret because it is not covered in the OM.) I don't think this is an unreasonable expectation.

And we do have some outlying data that indicates that WOT, even if applied early on, doesn't always work.

- Mark
 

autoteach

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If twisting a throttle is an unreasonable expectation, then surely changing a flat on a car would be something just short of criminal. But, I see your point, they put the directions for that in the OM of cars, so that is why everyone knows how to do it.
 

markjenn

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autoteach said:
If twisting a throttle is an unreasonable expectation, then surely changing a flat on a car would be something just short of criminal. But, I see your point, they put the directions for that in the OM of cars, so that is why everyone knows how to do it.
I think us "old timers" have to understand that many buying a S10 today have never owned any vehicle with a carburetor and don't have the foggiest notion of how to recognize a flooded engine or how to correct the problem. What seems like common sense to us is folklore to them.

- Mark
 

markjenn

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RonH said:
I still find it rather hard to believe a cold engine gets flooded in a fuel injected engine? On an old carb engine you can pour gas straight down the carb and it will normally start right up.. So the fuel injection of this motorcycle sprays this much gas to foul the plugs where it won't fire up even cold?
The range of A/F ratios that will support combustion is narrower than you might think, somewhere in the range of 8:1 to 20:1. Get it outside these ranges and it won't fire. When an engine is cold though, it won't fire on a normal 14:1 as the fuel doesn't vaporize properly. Instead, you need something around 10:1. So the FI system has to get the A/F ratio into a pretty narrow range.

The problem, as I understand it, is that the system has no way to know during cranking that there is excess fuel. The ECU looks up in a table how much fuel to inject and then trims the number based on what the inlet air temp sensor says. If they miss high or there is some other glitch that doesn't allow the engine to immediately fire, then the problem can rapidly spiral downhill as the injectors keep adding more fuel which just adds to the accumulated/unfired fuel. And the plugs start to wet foul which makes things even worse. The situation spirals out of control and the more you crank with closed throttle, the worse it gets. Big 600cc pistons, a clanky decompression system, perhaps a marginal starter and battery..... it all might add up.

I think the reason WOT works (usually) is that they designed into the system a flooded-start protocol that mimics what we used to do with carb engines. A flooded engine needs no fuel and lots of air to purge the system of excess fuel and get the A/F ratio down to an acceptable number. On carb'ed engines, WOT got you the air, but it also tended to continue to get fuel.... eventually air usually won out. On the S10, Yamaha appears to open the butterflys and turn off the fuel. At least this is how most FI engines flooded protocol works.

The problem may be much more subtle than we think. I could see a scenario where some engineer poked a single erroneous number into an air temp compensation table that only bites in a certain narrow set of circumstances, but when it does, it bites hard.

- Mark
 

jaeger22

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autoteach said:
WOT also raises compression. Almost all FI vehicles have WOT fuel cut programmed in.
Exactly! And I think that is what is going on here. In the controller I used on my home made EFI (DR650) it is called "flood clear mode". It detects that you have the throttle wide open and that the motor is not running so assumes you are trying to clear a flooded motor and cuts all fuel. I can't see inside the Yamaha code but I bet they are doing the same thing. I did an experiment with the air box off to see how much the butterflies opened when I went to WFO as I cranked the motor with plug wires off. They did open a bit more as I opened up the throttle but only to about 1/4 open with the throttle pegged. So I doubt that would have a huge effect without the fuel cut out. For what ever reason, the WFO and let it grind trick has worked for me so far. Three times now.
 

orange rush

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Maybe someone can figure out how to wire in a "Flood Start" switch to allow cranking the engine without the EFI and fuel pump operating. Pulling the cowling and removing a fuse along the side of the road in a monsoon could be dangerous!
I would really like too get some response from Yamaha about this as is seems to be more common than previously thought.

Chris
 

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orange rush said:
Maybe someone can figure out how to wire in a "Flood Start" switch to allow cranking the engine without the EFI and fuel pump operating. Pulling the cowling and removing a fuse along the side of the road in a monsoon could be dangerous!
I would really like too get some response from Yamaha about this as is seems to be more common than previously thought.

Chris
Glad to hear your machine started without a trip to the dealer. Unfortunately, the randomness of a hard start may not be as common as it seems for Yamaha to respond. Probably a case of more vocal owners and easier access to their experiences. Kinda like shark attacks... not really that prevalent but when it happens to you, life changing. Just be prepared to go WOT if she doesn't fire on 1st or 2nd attempt. Good luck with that Polar Vortex thing.
 

markjenn

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orange rush said:
Maybe someone can figure out how to wire in a "Flood Start" switch to allow cranking the engine without the EFI and fuel pump operating. Pulling the cowling and removing a fuse along the side of the road in a monsoon could be dangerous!
I would really like too get some response from Yamaha about this as is seems to be more common than previously thought.
If Yamaha has a flood-clear mode in the ECU, I'd bet they already cut fuel. I know some believe that pulling the fuel pump fuse is a necessary "next step" when WOT doesn't work, but I wonder if maybe just sticking with WOT might have eventually done the same thing that pulling the fuse would. Hard to know for sure.

I think there have been quite a few owners who have escalated up the chain with Yamaha, but nothing seems to emerge from the citadel. At this point, with a new bike model and presumably new ECU tuning coming out, I think they'll continue to stonewall.

- Mark
 

autoteach

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injection of fuel stops during WOT and cranking. Pulling the fuse is redundant. Despite their being this WOT fix, I wish that there was additionally something that you could do. Maybe, and I am just spitballing here, but maybe you could walk around the bike three times, on the center stand of course! jeez, ok, where was I, walk around three times, and then crank the bike over while keeping the throttle wide open. Maybe they could do a TSB, or a commercial to demonstrate walking around the bike. I just feel like Yamaha just isn't doing anything to provide an alternative solution to the solution that exists. ::010::
 

Koinz

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I wonder it we're looking at the wrong area. Maybe the plugs are at fault here and they foul up too easily on a missed cold start. If the gap on the plug was opened at little more than they are, wouldn't the coils deliver a stronger spark to overcome the larger gap? I realize there is a potential of overloading the sticks.
Do people that have aftermarket plugs still have the same issue?

I actually ran my BMW with a wider gap and the engine ran noticeably smoother. I'm assuming that there was a more complete combustion.
 

Koinz

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Seams like this thread came to a screeching halt. Something I said? :'(
 

BaldKnob

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Koinz said:
Seams like this thread came to a screeching halt. Something I said? :'(
Yes, and you should really be ashamed!!! What self-respecting Tenere owner would knowingly put aftermarket sparkplugs in their machine? Honestly... the nerve of some people. And for goodness sake, it's 'seems'.
 

Koinz

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I didn't say I had after market plugs, which I don't and I have new oem plugs to replace them. just saying maybe a slightly larger gap might help with the hard starting and was wondering if people that had aftermarket plugs were still experiencing the issue. Not everyone has had this issue. Ok, I'll shut up now.
I'll be putting new plugs in maybe this weekend and I see what gap is on them and bumped them up just a little.
 

BaldKnob

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Koinz said:
I didn't say I had after market plugs, which I don't and I have new oem plugs to replace them. just saying maybe a slightly larger gap might help with the hard starting and was wondering if people that had aftermarket plugs were still experiencing the issue. Not everyone has had this issue. Ok, I'll shut up now.
I'll be putting new plugs in maybe this weekend and I see what gap is on them and bumped them up just a little.
Sorry, I couldn't find the sarcasm smiley but it was insinuated.
 

Koinz

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Oh I definitely got the sarcasm, no issue. I just over analyze at times. ;D
 

BaldKnob

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There is about 15 pages of over analyzing on BeCoyote's valve adjust nightmare thread. I suppose 20 degree temps and frozen precipitation on the roads has something to do with that. Man, I wanna ride.
 

Koinz

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Ya, Me too. I have a new suspension I haven't tried out yet because of all the snow and I was going to check my valves this weekend, well tomorrow into Saturday. Hopefully that's all that it will take. ???
 

BaldKnob

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Koinz said:
Ya, Me too. I have a new suspension I haven't tried out yet because of all the snow and I was going to check my valves this weekend, well tomorrow into Saturday. Hopefully that's all that it will take. ???
It took me just over 5hrs to break it down, check the valves and reassemble. The hardest part is the valve cover, there is just barely enough room to manipulate it over the cams. Good luck with yours and enjoy that suspension when the time comes.
 

autoteach

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I will answer the spark plug gap question. The reason that you don't gap the plugs different than what NGK, a somewhat reputable company with at least 5 or 10 years in the biz, is the same reason that you are not grooving your tires to enhance their wet traction before your road trip. COP ignition and spark plugs have been figured out.
 
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