Oil Change

tc9988

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wfopete said:
Hey is that T6 stuff happy for a wet clutch motor?

Glad I saw this thread I can't remember the last time I changed my oil.
you don't need to change the oil if you hardly ever ride bike :))
 

tpak

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FWIW, I was in O'Reilly over the weekend and noticed that Mobil Delvac 15W40 is on sale for 11.99/gallon. If you are running mineral oil it's arguably a good choice and that is dirt cheap. My O'Reilly says it is on sale through 4/30/2013 at that price.
 

Doug44

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tomatocity said:
I get oil in a gallon container... remove 12 to 13 ounces... and pour the remainder in the engine. I pour the 12 to 13 ounces in another container and eventually will have another oil change.
::010:: why are simple solutions sometimes so hard to come up with. Thank you for this post ::015::
 

Reveille

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So I picked up my new 2012 last Friday and rode a bit over 500 miles Friday into Saturday. ::001:: I changed the oil yesterday and dropped a bit over 4000 CC worth out without changing the filter. Obviously the stealership over filled or failed to adjust the level from the factory. Not surprised and I did notice that when I took delivery it was over the sight glass while level and on the center stand. Now that I changed the oil I set the level properly. I will check the air filter tonight to see if any excess oil blew into the airbox. Love me some dealership maintenance... ::007:: gearbox feels much nicer with a semi syn motorcycle specific oil. So you guys recommend changing the final drive oil at 600 as well?
 

EricV

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Reveille said:
So you guys recommend changing the final drive oil at 600 as well?
Yes. You may be surprised to see the stuff that comes out.
 

sail2xxs

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Reveille said:
So I picked up my new 2012 last Friday and rode a bit over 500 miles Friday into Saturday. ::001:: I changed the oil yesterday and dropped a bit over 4000 CC worth out without changing the filter. Obviously the stealership over filled or failed to adjust the level from the factory. Not surprised and I did notice that when I took delivery it was over the sight glass while level and on the center stand. Now that I changed the oil I set the level properly. I will check the air filter tonight to see if any excess oil blew into the airbox. Love me some dealership maintenance... ::007:: gearbox feels much nicer with a semi syn motorcycle specific oil. So you guys recommend changing the final drive oil at 600 as well?
If you want to be able to drain the airbox without raising the tank in the future, it's only a couple minutes work to add a piece of hose to the drains: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=4162.msg76755#msg76755

Chris
 

markjenn

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Reveille said:
So I picked up my new 2012 last Friday and rode a bit over 500 miles Friday into Saturday. ::001:: I changed the oil yesterday and dropped a bit over 4000 CC worth out without changing the filter. Obviously the stealership over filled or failed to adjust the level from the factory. Not surprised and I did notice that when I took delivery it was over the sight glass while level and on the center stand. Now that I changed the oil I set the level properly. I will check the air filter tonight to see if any excess oil blew into the airbox. Love me some dealership maintenance... ::007:: gearbox feels much nicer with a semi syn motorcycle specific oil. So you guys recommend changing the final drive oil at 600 as well?
I wouldn't be too hard on the dealership - they should check the oil during setup to be sure it is sufficient, but it would be pretty above-and-beyond to adjust it down for a factory overfill, especially given how these bikes aren't terribly consistent in how they show oil on the sight glass. Now if they added some because they're not competent in checking the oil, that would be bad.

- Mark
 

Reveille

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Well I generally agree with your comment about dealers but if it was a half a liter or so to get it adjusted I could see them just leaving it but mine was more than a liter overfilled. That seems a bit excessive to just let it go. IMHO
 

markjenn

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Reveille said:
Well I generally agree with your comment about dealers but if it was a half a liter or so to get it adjusted I could see them just leaving it but mine was more than a liter overfilled. That seems a bit excessive to just let it go. IMHO
The problem is that there is no way to know if you're 100cc ovefilled or a liter overfilled - in either event, the sight glass will show full oil.

Again, I suppose it would be ideal if the dealer took a long test ride (and listened to the owner bitch about how their bike had 20 miles on it at delivery rather than 2), carefully checked the oil after it settled, and if they couldn't see the top of the oil in the sight glass, to incrementally start draining small amounts of oil and riding the bike again until it is perfect. But this isn't something normally that is necessary so it is not done - if the sight glass shows the oil if full, then they assume it is more or less correct. I don't know how the setup checklist reads on a S10, but I'd bet it says something to the effect "verify the motorcycle has adequate oil" rather than saying "drain/add oil as necessary to make sure oil level is precisely at the top line on the sight glass." You can read other threads on this board that discusses how the S10 isn't terribly consistent with how it shows oil on the sight glass. It is not a matter of simply pouring it in and watching the sight glass like you would fill a measuring cup.

I guess I'm saying your bitch is with the factory rather than the dealer. Notwithstanding, of course, the major dealer screw up where a novice mechanic saw the oil slightly down on the sight glass and decided to "throw an extra quart in just to be sure it is full".

- Mark
 

HoebSTer

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I thought the bike came from the factory with proper oil in it anyway. All they have to do is hook up the battery, tighten the bolts after installation of front wheel and handlebars and send you on your way.
 

Reveille

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So I just finished changing the final drive oil and my amazement with the factory/dealer continues. Before changing I pulled the filler plug and couldn't see any oil or feel any with my pinky finger so I pull the drain plug and out pours 2 small shot glasses of black gunky gear lube and the plug had metal shavings stuck to it. Before changing the oil I had noticed that the shaft gearbox was VERY hot after riding so I hope nothing is damaged. Anyhow I refilled it per the manual with Belray hypoid. ::008:: I hope I don't find anymore surprises. Loving this bike BTW ::001::
 

EricV

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Reveille said:
So I just finished changing the final drive oil and my amazement with the factory/dealer continues. Before changing I pulled the filler plug and couldn't see any oil or feel any with my pinky finger so I pull the drain plug and out pours 2 small shot glasses of black gunky gear lube and the plug had metal shavings stuck to it. Before changing the oil I had noticed that the shaft gearbox was VERY hot after riding so I hope nothing is damaged. Anyhow I refilled it per the manual with Belray hypoid. ::008:: I hope I don't find anymore surprises. Loving this bike BTW ::001::
The housing gets pretty hot in normal use. I had a bit more oil in my final drive, but changed it out at 35 miles the first time after a break in run home from the dealer. You will find that it runs noticeably cooler with a good quality synthetic gear oil. I've been using Valvoline SynPower.

As for the over fill on the engine, dry sump system, so not really a big deal.
 

California

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While we are on the subject of oil changes, let me say.......................


This is the easiest, quickest bike to change oil and filter that I have ever owned. Start to finish, no more than 20 minutes. ::015::
 

Curt

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California said:
This is the easiest, quickest bike to change oil and filter that I have ever owned. Start to finish, no more than 20 minutes. ::015::
Unless one has an Altrider skid plate. Then it's triple the time, in order to remove and replace eight sets of bolts, washers, and nuts that are a total PITA to get a wrench on. ::010:: Gotta keep it though; it's awesome and beautiful. ::010::
 

coastie

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Curt said:
Unless one has an Altrider skid plate. Then it's triple the time, in order to remove and replace eight sets of bolts, washers, and nuts that are a total PITA to get a wrench on. ::010:: Gotta keep it though; it's awesome and beautiful. ::010::
I just take off the front bracket that is next to the filter and the filter comes right off. I picked up some pig mat at the auto parts store and put it in the bottom of the skid plate to soak up the oil that comes out.
 

coastie

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tpak said:
FWIW, I was in O'Reilly over the weekend and noticed that Mobil Delvac 15W40 is on sale for 11.99/gallon. If you are running mineral oil it's arguably a good choice and that is dirt cheap. My O'Reilly says it is on sale through 4/30/2013 at that price.
I switched to this about 200 miles ago and it runs and shifts just as smooth as the Amsoil I was using. I switched to try to stop my oil consumption problem. She was burning 8oz of oil every oil change.
 

tpak

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coastie said:
I switched to this about 200 miles ago and it runs and shifts just as smooth as the Amsoil I was using. I switched to try to stop my oil consumption problem. She was burning 8oz of oil every oil change.
What was your change interval on the Amsoil? I've been running Rotella T6 w/o issue but don't have that many miles on the bike yet and my changes have been short miles (~2000). At the price, this stuff is hard to argue with and seems to go on sale at some store every couple of months. I'd also be interested if you have any observations on shifting vs. with the Amsoil.
 
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