Oil Change

[EricV]

What was your change interval on the Amsoil? I've been running Rotella T6 w/o issue but don't have that many miles on the bike yet and my changes have been short miles (~2000). At the price, this stuff is hard to argue with and seems to go on sale at some store every couple of months. I'd also be interested if you have any observations on shifting vs. with the Amsoil.

I run the Rotella and do oil changes at 5000 mile intervals. The US spec says 4000, but the EU spec says 10,000 kms or 6200 miles, so I split the difference. I only seem to use oil if I'm maintaining higher speeds for extended periods. I try not to do that, but it sometimes happens. Typically, extended 5k rpm running seems to use oil enough that I'll need to add 8 ounces or more the next day. Normal riding doesn't require me to add any oil between changes.

Why are you changing the oil so early?

 

[tpak]

I run the Rotella and do oil changes at 5000 mile intervals. The US spec says 4000, but the EU spec says 10,000 kms or 6200 miles, so I split the difference. I only seem to use oil if I'm maintaining higher speeds for extended periods. I try not to do that, but it sometimes happens. Typically, extended 5k rpm running seems to use oil enough that I'll need to add 8 ounces or more the next day. Normal riding doesn't require me to add any oil between changes.

Why are you changing the oil so early?

The Rotella T6 full syn or the dino?

I picked up the bike last summer with ~700 miles. Changed the oil then w/Yamalube - ran it for 2k and changed it again to T6. I have a gallon of T6 waiting for the next change which will be in a couple of weeks at the rate I'm going this summer. I wish I could ride more but with schleping kids around I often have to take the cage or the whole day becomes a logistical nightmare. With the T6 I have no issues going 5 or 6k - I usually go close to 10k on my Tundra with Mobile 1. With Rotella or Delvac dino on this beast I'm not sure what interval I'd end up with - probably 5k anyway - modern oil is all so good.

 

[EricV]

The Rotella T6 full syn or the dino?

I picked up the bike last summer with ~700 miles. Changed the oil then w/Yamalube - ran it for 2k and changed it again to T6. I have a gallon of T6 waiting for the next change which will be in a couple of weeks at the rate I'm going this summer. I wish I could ride more but with schleping kids around I often have to take the cage or the whole day becomes a logistical nightmare. With the T6 I have no issues going 5 or 6k - I usually go close to 10k on my Tundra with Mobile 1. With Rotella or Delvac dino on this beast I'm not sure what interval I'd end up with - probably 5k anyway - modern oil is all so good.

Sorry, I am running the Rotella T6 full synthetic oil along with half a bottle of STP for added zinc. Thanks for the explanation, just not enough time to ride.

 

[arnoldinup]

A question about 'running STP' in a motorcycle : I thought that 'slippery' substances were not advisable to use in motorcycle engines w/wet clutches. Am I mis-informed, or what ? !!

Greetings, all, from 'da UP of Michigan !!

 

[coastie]

I was planning on doing the normal oil change intervals that it says in the manual (Every 4k?). I did the same oil change intervals with the Amsoil. I put in normal Delvac Dyno oil this time around. After a few hundred miles i have felt really no difference in shifting, It may be a little less smooth but not enough to even really notice. I will find out how the oil consumption is on my way across texas, hopefully I don't have to add any.

 

[EricV]

A question about 'running STP' in a motorcycle : I thought that 'slippery' substances were not advisable to use in motorcycle engines w/wet clutches. Am I mis-informed, or what ? !!

Greetings, all, from 'da UP of Michigan !!

STP oil treatment, (small blue bottle), does not have any friction modifiers in it. It does have additional zinc, which aids in reducing gear wear and improves shifting smoothness.

Oil is slippery. High lubricity is not the issue here, it's the "energy conserving" rating on auto oils and the friction modifiers that they use that can cause problems with wet clutches. Most, if not all, diesel rated oils are free of those types of friction modifiers.

 

[tpak]

STP oil treatment, (small blue bottle), does not have any friction modifiers in it. It does have additional zinc, which aids in reducing gear wear and improves shifting smoothness.

Oil is slippery. High lubricity is not the issue here, it's the "energy conserving" rating on auto oils and the friction modifiers that they use that can cause problems with wet clutches. Most, if not all, diesel rated oils are free of those types of friction modifiers.

Thanks for the info - I hadn't thought about adding anything but I think the T6 does not shift as "nicely" in my opinion as the dino oils. In almost 4k on this run of T6 I am still seeing the same sight glass readings so probably not losing much. It's unfortunately been a lot of super slab recently with only about 100 miles of real fun dirt roads thrown in. Maybe I'll get some STP to throw in when I change it next time and see if that helps the feel of the shifting.

 

[tpak]

... just not enough time to ride.

sadly

 

[EricV]

Thanks for the info - I hadn't thought about adding anything but I think the T6 does not shift as "nicely" in my opinion as the dino oils. In almost 4k on this run of T6 I am still seeing the same sight glass readings so probably not losing much. It's unfortunately been a lot of super slab recently with only about 100 miles of real fun dirt roads thrown in. Maybe I'll get some STP to throw in when I change it next time and see if that helps the feel of the shifting.

Some time back, Rotella apparently reduced the amount of zinc they were putting in the T-6 oil. I don't recall the details, but that was when people started talking about using some STP for added zinc. It does seem to work as desired.

 

[sail2xxs]

Regular Rotella T 15W-40 on a 3-3.5k interval with fresh Yamaha filter has been working great for me so far. One of the reasons I like it is that I can change the oil at pretty much any truckstop (or WalMart) knowing that it will be available.

Chris

 

[tpak]

Regular Rotella T 15W-40 on a 3-3.5k interval with fresh Yamaha filter has been working great for me so far. One of the reasons I like it is that I can change the oil at pretty much any truckstop (or WalMart) knowing that it will be available.

Chris

Says the guy with over 75k miles on his bike ... so yeah, dino oil will run mine just fine for the foreseeable future and then some!

Like I said, all modern oil is good stuff - I think pick one you like and an interval that works and stick to it.

 

[coastie]

HAHA yea and designed for a diesel truck at that. I think I will be fine using the Mobil Delvac, changing the filter every 4k.

 

[sail2xxs]

snip

Like I said, all modern oil is good stuff - I think pick one you like and an interval that works and stick to it.

Agreed! ::026::

 

[sail2xxs]

HAHA yea and designed for a diesel truck at that. I think I will be fine using the Mobil Delvac, changing the filter every 4k.

Delvac is good stuff, and worked fine for me in prior bikes. I think the filter change every 4k is a good idea too. I never really understood the logic of changing the oil but not the filter.

Chris

 

[EricV]

I think the filter change every 4k is a good idea too. I never really understood the logic of changing the oil but not the filter.

I never understood that either. I just assume for the purposes of discussions like these that when someone says they change the oil, they are also changing the filter, unless otherwise stated. I don't think I've ever changed the oil and not the filter on anything. Just seems like an odd concept to me.

 

[avc8130]

The filter change every other change is because things got better with time. Filters are better. But mainly the engines are better with less wear to filter out. Yamaha says it. Why argue with them? Save about ten bucka following the factory recommendation. Warranty still intact.

ac

 

[~TABASCO~]

Regular Rotella T 15W-40 on a 3-3.5k interval with fresh Yamaha filter has been working great for me so far. One of the reasons I like it is that I can change the oil at pretty much any truckstop (or WalMart) knowing that it will be available.

Chris

Hey buddy,

Yea, me too... But I run mine about 6-7-8 K then change it..... Ill have to tell you the long story sometime, but my good friend is a 'big boss' at a construction rental joint. They have oil analysis about once a month on the expensive tractor motors for some type of insurance reasons... Long story short my buddy drives a diesel and use to put about 8K on an oil change with Syn Rotella. He one day gave it to the (oil analysis) guy for a test "for fun"... He came back and said its only at about half life... You can run it the way you have been driving for about 15K... This is with the Rotella synthetic. Knowing this he went back to the standard Rotella and runs that for about 8-9K....
Knowing this and trusting him and the money at involved with millions of dollars in heavy equipment, I think Syn Rotella in our bike would be totally fine for 8-10K miles.......

I've been running *energy conserving* (DONT use this in the Tenere) Mobil 1 Gold Cap in my wife's Honda. She runs it about 15-18K between changes.. I change the oil in her car and its still golden in color when I pull the plug .... Its NOT black or burned / burnt.... She has over 200K, no issues ever. Most all name brand oils today are really outstanding.........

 

[Skeezix]

It's time again for fresh oil in my tenere. I planned on using the hammy oil filters but the K&Ns are the same price and I have heard good things about them. K&N part number KN-204. I haven't been able to find anything about them on the forum but wondered if there was any reason not to use the,. And advice would be welcomed.

-cheers

 

[sail2xxs]

Skeezix,

The stock Yamaha filter dimensions from the maintenace parts post on the forum are: - Yamaha - 5GH-13440-20 (2.5") - (actual measured length 2.631" (66.83mm)

Vs the K&N 204, which is 2.917 in (74.11mm) with the 17mm removal nut. (Forum post measurement) http://www.knfilters.com/mobile/mProduct.aspx?&prod=kn-204

Dallara's part numbers post is at: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1326.0;topicseen

Depending on the type of skid plate you may have, the difference in filter height could be a consideration.

Chris

 

[Skeezix]

Chris - thanks for the info. I'm more concerned about operational issues w/ the k&n than size. For example Subaru's are picky about which oil filters to use due some type of issues with the drain back valve inside the filter. I didn't know if the tenere was picky at all or if any filter would do. That was the majority of my concern.