Oil Change

[tomatocity]

I searched the forum and could not find an alike thread. I don't have the User's Manual so these questions might be boring for most. Should get the manual Monday or Tuesday.

- There are two drain plugs and two crush washers?
- The drain plugs are removed and oil drained while on the side stand?
- The oil is filled while on the center stand?
- Quarts of oil used for an oil change?
- Oil filter, various?

I drained the oil and removed the oil filter and will be refilling Monday morning. I was surprised by how much oil was in the oil filter and held in the engine by the oil filter. Trying to ride 250 miles so I will be within 50 miles of the 600 mile service. Maybe 1,000 miles by Friday. Why does breaking-in an engine feel like work... well fun work.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edit, 3/9/2012

- There are: two drain bolts (oil tank & crankcase), two copper washers, 12mm wrench, 3.6 quarts of oil, funnel, one oil filter, oil filter wrench, oil drain pan, shop towels.
- Run the engine to warm the oil.
- Remove the drain bolts and drain oil while on the side stand.
- Remove the old oil filter. There is more oil in the filter than you would guess. Can be messy.
- Install the two drain bolts with washers (90430-12213) (14 ft lbf).
- Add 3.6 U.S. quarts of oil and install the oil filter (5GH-13440-20) (12 ft lbf). /
- The oil is measured in the Viewer Window while on a level surface. Oil should be between the maximum and minmum Viewer Window lines.
- The type, weight, and brand of oil and brand of oil filter is up to you.

- 3.1 liter without oil filter and 3.4 liter with oil filter / 3.3 U.S. quarts without oil filter or 3.6 U.S. quarts with oil filter

Magnetic Drain Plugs http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/PlugFinder/motorcycle.php offered by baldone

The Owner's Manual and this Forum has more information concerning changing the oil for your Super Tenere.
Do everyone a favor and recycle your used oil & oil filter.

 

[big dave]

don't forget to change your rear drive oil at the first oil change service.

I've just done mine and was suprised at the amount of metal "dust" on the drain plug magnet, so much so that I decided to waste a bit of oil and perform a double flush .

BD

 

[Twitch]

I searched the forum and could not find an alike thread. I don't have the User's Manual so these questions might be boring for most. Should get the manual Monday or Tuesday.

Why does breaking-in an engine feel like work... well fun work.

Fun work indeed!

There’s a link to an OM in the linked thread. The procedures and capacities for oil change and final drive change check to current manual. Click -- Filters

 

[SpeedStar]

There are two drain plugs and two crush washers, correct?

Yes, two drain plugs and washers. 14ft/Lb torque for both.

- The drain plugs are removed and oil drained while on the side stand?

Yes, remove both and drain on side stand or center stand. I started on the center stand and then when it looked like it was done I put it on the side stand to get a little more out.

- The oil is filled while on the center stand?

Yes, re-torque the drain plugs and fill on center stand.

- Quarts of oil used for an oil change?

3.4liters with filter change.

- Oil filter, various?

Yamaha - 5GH-13440-20 (2.5"), there are others available. Check Dallara's thread in Tech for a list.

Change your final drive oil too. Hypoid gear oil API-GL5. I used Spectro. .2 liters. Both drain plug and filler plug torque to 17ft/lbs.

 

[tomatocity]

Where should the oil level be in the viewer?

I checked the volume of oil that was drained and the refilled, 3.4 quarts.

After the oil change I started the engine two times, approximately one minute and three minutes. It has been more than an hour since the engine has run so the viewer should be correct.

The reason I ask is if the YST is on the centerstand the oil is barely showing in the bottom of the viewer. If the YST in on the wheels the oil shows in the middle (difficult to see the viewer while holding the YST).

This is the pre-600 mile oil change. I wanted to do it before 100 miles but I was away from home on a break-in ride.

 

[colorider]

I'm going to sticky this thread for now. Good info!!!

 

[RMac]

You need to be careful to follow manual procedure when filling oil. I got fooled and overfilled accidentally in the beginning because I have never had a bike with the same sump design as the S10 before. Run the engine for few minutes to heat the oil up to 60C, turn engine off, wait and then check level before topping off.

 

[rem]

I did the same thing first time around. I think this "dry sump" type of oil system is a bit different when it come to reading the oil level. I put in the required amount, waited, added more, waited, added more ... then finally took it for a ride. Then I had to drain off about 400 cc's of oil. I suggested adding what they say in the manual, then ride it for a few minutes, then put it on centerstand and check after about 10 minutes. R

 

[tomatocity]

Thanks everyone. I feel better now. I don't have the manual though am headed to the dealership to get one.

This is excellent information and thanks for making it a Sticky. Traveling Tenereistas will be able to easily access this information when they don't have their manuals.

 

[rem]

I have a digital copy of the manual at home on my computer. If you'd like me to send it to you, let me know and I will when I get home, in a couple hours. R

 

[tomatocity]

I have a digital copy of the manual at home on my computer. If you'd like me to send it to you, let me know and I will when I get home, in a couple hours. R

PM sent.

 

[roy]

I have noticed oil level all over the place. When cold in the mornings its almost on the low line. After riding it's over full, sight glass completely over filled. I drained about 150mil out while on hot. Next morning low again so I added 100mil back into just below full line. After riding it was over full again! Said screw it and didn't look again until yeasterday after work. Bike had sat for two days and oil level was in the middle. Strange happenings all around. I owned 3 DRZ400 Suzuki's with a dry sump system and I remember them being all over the place on the check stick. Proper procedure on them was to check hot. Cold check always was off the stick. So I am guessing this dry sump design is the same. Would have been nice fore the owners manual to touch on this strange happening or else a lot of flks are goign to be over filling their oil levels. So I am guessing mine was about 100mil over full to begin with which won't hurt a thing. I will get the level sorted out when I do my first oil and filter change. Unfortunately I have been to busy to ride so my bikes mileage is stuck at 120 miles afte almost a week of ownership.

 

[Kevhunts]

I have noticed oil level all over the place. When cold in the mornings its almost on the low line. After riding it's over full, sight glass completely over filled. I drained about 150mil out while on hot. Next morning low again so I added 100mil back into just below full line. After riding it was over full again! Said screw it and didn't look again until yeasterday after work. Bike had sat for two days and oil level was in the middle. Strange happenings all around. I owned 3 DRZ400 Suzuki's with a dry sump system and I remember them being all over the place on the check stick. Proper procedure on them was to check hot. Cold check always was off the stick. So I am guessing this dry sump design is the same. Would have been nice fore the owners manual to touch on this strange happening or else a lot of flks are goign to be over filling their oil levels. So I am guessing mine was about 100mil over full to begin with which won't hurt a thing. I will get the level sorted out when I do my first oil and filter change. Unfortunately I have been to busy to ride so my bikes mileage is stuck at 120 miles afte almost a week of ownership.

To check the engine oil level
1. Place the vehicle on the centerstand.
A slight tilt to the side can
result in a false reading.
2. Start the engine and warm it up for
ten minutes until the engine oil has
reached a normal temperature of
60 °C (140 °F), and then turn the
engine off.
3. Wait a few minutes until the oil settles,
and then check the oil level
through the engine oil level check
window located at the bottom-right
side of the crankcase.
TIP
The engine oil should be between the
minimum and maximum level marks.
4. If the engine oil is below the minimum
level mark, add sufficient oil
of the recommended type to raise
it to the correct level.

 

[roy]

To check the engine oil level
1. Place the vehicle on the centerstand.
A slight tilt to the side can
result in a false reading.
2. Start the engine and warm it up for
ten minutes until the engine oil has
reached a normal temperature of
60 °C (140 °F), and then turn the
engine off.
3. Wait a few minutes until the oil settles,
and then check the oil level
through the engine oil level check
window located at the bottom-right
side of the crankcase.
TIP
The engine oil should be between the
minimum and maximum level marks.
4. If the engine oil is below the minimum
level mark, add sufficient oil
of the recommended type to raise
it to the correct level.

Yes I read all that jibberish in the manual. Try it, it does not work, oil level will still register low if you do not go ride it around a couple of miles and then it will be too high. I know how to check oil level. I've only been riding for 40+ years. Dry sump design is not one of my favorites. I stick with the point that it came over filled to begin with reason it it shows high when hot. I will be setting my level after a lengthy ride into my shop.

 

[Kevhunts]

Well in that jibberish it clearly states how much to warm up the engine before checking the level. 140*F
Obviously if you drive a couple of miles, the oil will be hotter and will have expanded more giving you a false over filled reading.

 

[roy]

Well in that jibberish it clearly states how much to warm up the engine before checking the level. 140*F
Obviously if you drive a couple of miles, the oil will be hotter and will have expanded more giving you a false over filled reading.

Coolant temp does not represent oil temp so HOW does one know the oil temp without sticking a stick thermometer into the oil? The recommendation makes no sense for the casual home/side of the road individual to check his or her oil IMO.

 

[Kevhunts]

You could use a thermometer if you want to be scientific about it. Maybe someday someone will offer a thermometer filler plug?
You could drain out all the oil, replace the filter, add the proper amount of new oil, then check the site glass with the engine cold, warm, & hot to learn where the level is & should be depending on temp.
Just keep in mind that normal operating temperature of the oil after riding is probably 200-250 deg. and that the oil level will rise with temperature rise.

 

[tomatocity]

It would be nice to have a proven method to check the oil. This is what I did and the results though as said before by others the results are inconsistant.

- drained the oil; both drain plugs; oil filter removed; on the sidestand; overnight.
- replaced the drain plugs, installed a new OEM oil filter; filled with 3.4 quarts of Yamalube 10w40; Centerstand; the Viewer showed over full.
- ran the for 3 minutes; engine off for 15 minutes; trace of oil in the Viewer; off Centerstand; small amount at teh bottom of the Viewer.
- Centerstand; ran the engine for 10 minutes; engine off 30 minutes; trace of oil at the bottom of the Viewer; off Centerstand.
- difficult to see the Viewer off Centerstand; slightly tip the ST side to side and the oil level varies; difficult to tell when the ST is upright.
- if you run the engine; stop the engine; wait 15 minutes; over and over; you can get a different reading almost everytime.
- I know there is 3.4 quarts of oil in the engine; can see oil in the Viewer; have to believe all is well.

My concern is how do I know how much oil is in the engine after 2,000 miles of loaded touring. What are the European, Netherlands, Australian, and Canadian riders saying? Don't they have the same engines?

 

[elizilla]

Being a dry sump, isn't the oil whose level you're measuring, in an oil tank rather than in an oil pan at the bottom of the motor? I would think that as long as you have oil in the tank to feed into the motor as needed, and you don't have so much oil that it forces its way out the fill hole, then your oil level is fine.

I don't have a Super Ten (yet) but I have a TDM, which is a Yamaha parallel twin with a dry sump as well. The TDM's oil is all over the stick, at different times, but I learned not to sweat it. When I drain it, a little comes out of the drain bolt under the engine, and a LOT comes out of the drain bolt for the tank. In operation, it just cycles it through, but there's always more oil just in storage waiting to be cycled, than there is actually in use, at any given time. You could get pretty low on oil without losing oil pressure - you'd just wear the oil you do have, out a bit faster, because it would get cycled through more frequently.

Don't worry, go ride.

 

[rem]

Yeah, I think what he said. I will get a permanent container and measure out the exact amount of oil required as stated in the manual, for with and without filter change, and add that as appropriate. I suspect these Japanese engineers know what they're doing. Borrow or buy a graduated cylinder from your local school or hatchery or hospital, and do one accurate measurement. If you don't want to foul the graduated cylinder for future use, use cooking oil. Mark the container and Fred's your plumber .... uh, sorry ... Canadian version ... Bob's your Uncle. R