Oil Change

[Boondocker]

Yesterday, I bought a graduated funnel with shut-off valve and capped fill tube at Walmart. I was happy to be able to measure the 3.28 US quarts for a no-filter oil change. The graduations aren't that fine, was probably closer to 3.25 quarts. After doing the prescribed engine warm-up by riding for 15 minutes or so, then letting it cool down for 10-15 minutes, then holding the bike balanced upright (not on center stand), my oil level was just below center of the window. That is so by-the-book it actually works. ::002:: I ended up putting another .1795 quarts (more or less) in because I like it just above the center line of the fill window. In 3000 miles, I'll do it again, only this time with the filter and additional oil.

The only reason I did an oil-only change this time was to see if I could do it without removing the Altrider skidplate, which I did, but it would have be less frustrating to remove the plate in the first place. Now I know.

Here's to another 15 pages of oil change madness ::018::

 

[twinrider]

The bike needs to be on the center stand and on a level spot. It is best, just to put in the required amount, then ride the bike, put it on the center stand and leave it set for a while, or over night.

I did exactly that and it worked great. The oil level was midway up the window a few minutes after the oil change, but near the top of the window the next morning.

 

[Cloud09]

Hi All

I know it probably is here somewhere! Y/day I changed my paper filter to foam ones as we do here in Aussie hot n dusty land!

In the parcel was two small crank case breather foams and a grommet, was wondering if anyone has done this and really what would be difference? they are pre oiled as well & i'm thinking do I really need to put them on as the oil will attract the dust!

your thoughts?

 

[tomatocity]

Hi All

I know it probably is here somewhere! Y/day I changed my paper filter to foam ones as we do here in Aussie hot n dusty land!

In the parcel was two small crank case breather foams and a grommet, was wondering if anyone has done this and really what would be difference? they are pre oiled as well & i'm thinking do I really need to put them on as the oil will attract the dust!

your thoughts?

You found the thread dedicated to Engine Oil Change.

I remember reading about the individual foam air filters but can't remember if it was here at YamahaSuperTenere.com or ADVrider.com. A simple search should capture all the threads that cover this information.

 

[RedLDR]

Hi guys

I was just wondering what oils my fellow Aussie s10 riders are using?

 

[iridemotorbikes]

Did my first service last week.. Went for a 20 mile warm up ride drained the case, dropped the filter- let it drip for about 5 mins. Installed the drain plugs with new washers, put new filter with some new oil saturated in it on. Poured 3qts in the case then with a paint mixing cup measured out .6qt (19.2oz) and poured it in. 3.6qt total.

Did the final drive service, measured out the requred amount( if I remember correct 258ml) poured it in using the clear fuel line method came right to the correct level- even with the bottom of the filler threads.

Buttoned everything back up, bolted my AltRider skid plate back on (10mins) went for a shake down ride.. Put her on the center stand while I cleaned up the garage, checked the level- oil is perfectly in the middle of the sight glass..

Very easy bike to service IMO, 3.6qts in no worries about the engine oil level for me.

Love this bike!!!

 

[Solo]

I have owned my Super T for just a couple of months now and had the same observations about the oil level in the sight window. I'm guessing that when you pour the oil into the fill hole that the oil goes into the tank inside the engine and it is not enough to appear in the sight glass (unless you overfill it). Once you've ridden the bike the oil gets pumped from the tank and is distributed all around inside the engine and filter. Once the engine is turned off the oil settles to where it shows in the sight glass. The 3.6 qts works just fine once you've ridden the bike. I doubt that the volume of oil increases much with engine temperature. It's a matter of getting it circulated in the engine.

 

[Zepfan]

Rotella T5 GOOD ??

I am a Cheap Charlie and have seen HUNDREDS of folks using ROTELLA T in their bikes. I used it for years BEFORE my new purchase. Plan on continuing..... ?????

Any one use ?? $16. / GAL. Walmart.

Don't want to spend allot for OIL if it aint necessary.

Thanks!!

 

[merchant]

I use the Rotalla T6 synthetic. $21/gallon @ Wallie-World.

 

[Karson]

Dumb question. How are you measuring that 0.6 quarts? Measuring cup, or is there a fancy schmancy container out there ya'll are using...

 

[whisperquiet]

Dumb question. How are you measuring that 0.6 quarts? Measuring cup, or is there a fancy schmancy container out there ya'll are using...

I keep a 2 qt plastic measuring cup in the garage........ .6 qt = approx 19 oz. A measuring cup is good for fork oil and final drive lube also.

BTW.......to fan the oil flames....try measuring your recently purchased gallon of oil. I have found that some "gallons" contain slightly more than one gallon and some slightly less than a gallon. YMMV or YOMV

 

[~TABASCO~]

I use the Rotalla T6 synthetic. $21/gallon @ Wallie-World.

X2 and then I run it 5-6-7 K Like this = ::26::

 

[markjenn]

Dumb question. How are you measuring that 0.6 quarts? Measuring cup, or is there a fancy schmancy container out there ya'll are using...

Almost all of the containers that oil ships in these days have measuring gradations on the side.

- Mark

 

[Karson]

Yeah I've been initially "ballparking it" with the gallon Rotella containers. That last 0.6 quarts is a real b**** and the root cause for a lot of tail chasing I've found, though.

Always on the look out for a better mousetrap...

 

[terrysig]

Rotella T5 GOOD ??

I am a Cheap Charlie and have seen HUNDREDS of folks using ROTELLA T in their bikes. I used it for years BEFORE my new purchase. Plan on continuing..... ?????

Any one use ?? $16. / GAL. Walmart.

Don't want to spend allot for OIL if it aint necessary.

Thanks!!

Rotella T5 every 3-4K. No problem. Look on any forum and you'll find any proper spec oil is fine...just make sure to change it!

 

[tomatocity]

I get oil in a gallon container... remove 12 to 13 ounces... and pour the remainder in the engine. I pour the 12 to 13 ounces in another container and eventually will have another oil change.

 

[EricV]

I get oil in a gallon container... remove 12 to 13 ounces... and pour the remainder in the engine. I pour the 12 to 13 ounces in another container and eventually will have another oil change.

I do this too. I use a 20 ounce pop bottle, then add 6 ounces of STP oil treatment for the added zinc, then toss in the rest of the Rotella. The bike seems to like a tad more oil more than a tad less oil.

 

[rem]

I have mentioned this before somewhere, but ...... Get yourself a 60 ml plastic syringe. Hospital, water quality business, veterinarian, possibly feed store ....... I use this for partial top ups. Add your full jug(s) of oil, then top up with the syringe as required. You can measure very precisely this way. It's also great for final drive. You can deposit the FD oil directly into the hole with the syringe. They are cheap .. you can keep several around for each application. I know that water quality companies up here use thousands of them. Awesome, Dude. ::008:: ::012:: R


By the way, 1 U. S. oz is for all intents and purposes = 30 ml. 10 oz = 300 ml. So a full 60 ml syringe is 2 oz. You're all clever boys ..... you get the idea. And again, for all intents and purposes, 1 ml = 1 cc. They are so close that even the IRS can't tell the difference.

 

[wfopete]

Hey is that T6 stuff happy for a wet clutch motor?

Glad I saw this thread I can't remember the last time I changed my oil.

 

[markjenn]

Hey is that T6 stuff happy for a wet clutch motor?

Widely used and most (perhaps all) report no problems. It's JASO MA rated and this rating is specifically associated with oils that are wet-clutch compatible. The 5W-40 is synthetic and an appropriate viscosity for the S10. By all reports, it is an excellent oil and you can buy it relatively cheap. It's been used in the FJR for decades. Only fly in the ointment is that this is really a diesel/heavy-equipment oil and many still believe you need a dedicated motorcycle-specific oil. This is more of a religious discussion than a technical one.

- Mark