Oil Change

[TierHawg]

How much clearance is needed to get the oil filter off/on? I'm asking because I installed a SW-Motech bashplate, and there is about 3/8 inch of clearance between the plate and the filter. Is the bashplate going to need to be dropped to get replace the filter?

I don't really care about the mess, only the 87 small parts that will fall out/get lost and be needed to reinstall the blashplate back in place.

 

[tomatocity]

How much clearance is needed to get the oil filter off/on? I'm asking because I installed a SW-Motech bashplate, and there is about 3/8 inch of clearance between the plate and the filter. Is the bashplate going to need to be dropped to get replace the filter?

I don't really care about the mess, only the 87 small parts that will fall out/get lost and be needed to reinstall the blashplate back in place.

The threaded portion of the tube is 3/8". The tube is 3/4" long from the sealing surface.

 

[dcstrom]

Just did my 600 mile change tonight. The stub that the oil filter screws onto is about an inch long, so that's how much clearance you'll need.

On the subject of bash plates, I pleased with how easy my H&B is work with. I was curious, since it is going to have to be removed frequently, so I timed it... 3 mins to remove, 5 mins to reinstall. Only 5 bolts holding it on, all the same size so no switching tools or trying to make sure you have the right bolt for the right hole...

How much clearance is needed to get the oil filter off/on? I'm asking because I installed a SW-Motech bashplate, and there is about 3/8 inch of clearance between the plate and the filter. Is the bashplate going to need to be dropped to get replace the filter?

I don't really care about the mess, only the 87 small parts that will fall out/get lost and be needed to reinstall the blashplate back in place.

 

[tomatocity]

Has anyone tried oil other than Yamalube 10w40? I used 10w40 for the 300, 600, and 1000 mile oil changes. Considering a different weight and maybe synthetic for the next oil changes. Any experiences or thoughts?

 

[Koinz]

Dealer recommended 10W50 Yamalube semi-synthetic while I was picking up my bike.

So I bought 10w40 for my first oil change and run the 10w50 next summer.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Has anyone tried oil other than Yamalube 10w40? I used 10w40 for the 300, 600, and 1000 mile oil changes. Considering a different weight and maybe synthetic for the next oil changes. Any experiences or thoughts?

Just put in 5w-40 Rotella blue bottle in yesterday... full synthetic.... I changed the rear end out with Mobil-1 LS 75-90 Run it in the FJR too.. I have a laser heat gun and the temps where lower with the Mobil-1.....

Engine oil looked pretty good......... Rear Diff oil was NASTY.... I will flush it probably two more times over the next 1500-2000 miles with the same Mobil-1

 

[tiogajoe]

stopped at a Yammi dealer yesterday on my way home frm Potter County. Got all Yamalube stuff for the first oil change just to be safe for any warranty stuff. They told me to use 20w50.. Seemed as heavy as the oil I drianed out?? Will probaly go to 10w40 if I ride into the winter. My final drive oil was cruddy and seemed to be not totaly filled to the top of the fill hole. It seemed like I put more in than came out.

 

[Combo]

stopped at a Yammi dealer yesterday on my way home frm Potter County. Got all Yamalube stuff for the first oil change just to be safe for any warranty stuff. They told me to use 20w50.. Seemed as heavy as the oil I drianed out?? Will probaly go to 10w40 if I ride into the winter. My final drive oil was cruddy and seemed to be not totaly filled to the top of the fill hole. It seemed like I put more in than came out.

I serviced mine today and went with the 20W50 Yam myself due to the heat. I too also felt that the drive was low and nasty. Nasty = normal for first/second change. I know it is full now.

 

[Rynn Storm]

Has anyone tried oil other than Yamalube 10w40? I used 10w40 for the 300, 600, and 1000 mile oil changes. Considering a different weight and maybe synthetic for the next oil changes. Any experiences or thoughts?

My Ducati 696 (twin) required about 3000 miles before it really started to purr. I'm going to stay with dino oil for a few thousand miles (but change often) before switching to the good stuff.

 

[Koinz]

I serviced mine today and went with the 20W50 Yam myself due to the heat. I too also felt that the drive was low and nasty. Nasty = normal for first/second change. I know it is full now.

He combo, just curious. With the thicker oil, is the engine any quieter?

 

[Combo]

He combo, just curious. With the thicker oil, is the engine any quieter?

It seams to be about the same. I am not sure what came in it, I would think 20-40.

This dry sump motor is a little on the mechanical sound side of things but with all it does I can very much live with it. I am a happy camper.

 

[tomatocity]

Tonight while viewing a location for the FZ-1 and noticed the information label below the seat on the right side. They referred to: Oil: 20w40. Gonna try 20w50 for the next oil change in 240 miles or 2,000 total miles.

 

[Twitch]

I used 20w50 at 300 miles and 80w for the final drive, both Castrol synthetics. I picked 20w50 by following the table in the handbook that has the temperature ranges. The engine oil looked like you’d expect for a first change imo. On the final drive, I’ve never had a shaft drive mc before and if not for your reassuring posts I’d probably be freaking out because calling what came out of there “nasty” after only 300 miles is somewhat of an understatement.

FD drain bolt

 

[fredz43]

stopped at a Yammi dealer yesterday on my way home frm Potter County. Got all Yamalube stuff for the first oil change just to be safe for any warranty stuff. They told me to use 20w50.. Seemed as heavy as the oil I drianed out?? Will probaly go to 10w40 if I ride into the winter. My final drive oil was cruddy and seemed to be not totaly filled to the top of the fill hole. It seemed like I put more in than came out.

We set up 5 new Super 10's and all 5 were low on final drive oil. We added about 2 oz to each.

 

[freeflow]

On the final drive, I’ve never had a shaft drive mc before and if not for your reassuring posts I’d probably be freaking out because calling what came out of there “nasty” after only 300 miles is somewhat of an understatement.


FD filler bolt

mine at 450 miles...

I swapped it again at 1250 miles...much cleaner

 

[rem]

Thanks, Freeflow. What a great name for an oil thread. R

 

[Rynn Storm]

mine at 450 miles...

I swapped it again at 1250 miles...much cleaner

Note, the factory most likely put in special stuff for the initial mating of the gears so the color may not indicate that it is "dirty".

 

[Mike Sisson]

I used 20w50 at 300 miles and 80w for the final drive, both Castrol synthetics. I picked 20w50 by following the table in the handbook that has the temperature ranges. The engine oil looked like you’d expect for a first change imo. On the final drive, I’ve never had a shaft drive mc before and if not for your reassuring posts I’d probably be freaking out because calling what came out of there “nasty” after only 300 miles is somewhat of an understatement.

FD drain bolt

You obviously don't have a Ural.....

My Ural had chunks of metal....which I was told was normal break in...and it turned out to be true!

Just changed my oil and the filter was on so tight I finally had to get some giant pliers and squeeze/crush it to get it off!! ???

Threads looked fine but WTF?!?!?!

 

[Koinz]

mine at 450 miles...

I swapped it again at 1250 miles...much cleaner

That's Molybdenam disylphide mixed gear lube. That there is good stuff. It's what I use in my final drives and plan to mix my gear oil with it. Yamaha did it right.

 

[Rynn Storm]

That's Molybdenam disylphide mixed gear lube. That there is good stuff. It's what I use in my final drives and plan to mix my gear oil with it. Yamaha did it right.

NAPA has Lubro Moly that appears to have Molybdenam disylphide mixed in. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=AMSLM2048_0284460048&An=0