Oil Change

[rem]

Sorry, Katherine. I wasn't paying attention. "What SHE said". R

 

[Scottie Boy]

Did my first change today. The oil is in the middle of the sight glass but the oil light is still on. I only let it idle for a few minutes. Should I take it for a short ride to reset the light?

 

[Scottie Boy]

Don't know what happened. Started her again and this time the light went out. Maybe it takes a few minutes to reset itself.

 

[hANNAbONE]

Lads...
If it's a dry sump - what is the matter if it's over-filled a bit or under-filled a tick...

It's not like the mill is getting so much oil that it'll bust a case open due to increased case pressures.

Am I wrong here ..?

 

[roy]

Lads...
If it's a dry sump - what is the matter if it's over-filled a bit or under-filled a tick...

It's not like the mill is getting so much oil that it'll bust a case open due to increased case pressures.

Am I wrong here ..?

You are not wrong and my whole point was the oil level is not very consitant across the board and the manual should tell you that. Not everyone understands a dry sump design. I do and know it will not hurt anythign but I am a perfectionist and the dry sump design goes against my way of thinking.

 

[dcstrom]

Where should the oil level be in the viewer?

I checked the volume of oil that was drained and the refilled, 3.4 quarts.

After the oil change I started the engine two times, approximately one minute and three minutes. It has been more than an hour since the engine has run so the viewer should be correct.

The reason I ask is if the YST is on the centerstand the oil is barely showing in the bottom of the viewer. If the YST in on the wheels the oil shows in the middle (difficult to see the viewer while holding the YST).

I did the same thing - put in the correct amount, no oil showing in the viewer. Added more to get oil up to the right level - and now it's overful. I had to take some out with a turkey baster.

I think the procedure will be - put in the correct amount, then check after the next ride, and adjust the level then. As long as you are SURE to put in the right amount, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Kevhunts]

I did the same thing - put in the correct amount, no oil showing in the viewer. Added more to get oil up to the right level - and now it's overful. I had to take some out with a turkey baster.

I think the procedure will be - put in the correct amount, then check after the next ride, and adjust the level then. As long as you are SURE to put in the right amount, it shouldn't be a problem.

I knew of a first time Porsche 911 owner who overfilled his dry sump engine. The engine caught on fire and burned the car to the ground.

This might help make more sense of dry sump characteristics : http://www.performance2and4.co.uk/oil_1_n.htm

 

[Scottie Boy]

It would be nice to have a proven method to check the oil. This is what I did and the results though as said before by others the results are inconsistant.

- drained the oil; both drain plugs; oil filter removed; on the sidestand; overnight.
- replaced the drain plugs, installed a new OEM oil filter; filled with 3.4 quarts of Yamalube 10w40; Centerstand; the Viewer showed over full.
- ran the for 3 minutes; engine off for 15 minutes; trace of oil in the Viewer; off Centerstand; small amount at teh bottom of the Viewer.
- Centerstand; ran the engine for 10 minutes; engine off 30 minutes; trace of oil at the bottom of the Viewer; off Centerstand.
- difficult to see the Viewer off Centerstand; slightly tip the ST side to side and the oil level varies; difficult to tell when the ST is upright.
- if you run the engine; stop the engine; wait 15 minutes; over and over; you can get a different reading almost everytime.
- I know there is 3.4 quarts of oil in the engine; can see oil in the Viewer; have to believe all is well.

My concern is how do I know how much oil is in the engine after 2,000 miles of loaded touring. What are the European, Netherlands, Australian, and Canadian riders saying? Don't they have the same engines?

While we're splitting hairs, the manual says 3.4 liters not quarts. 3.4 liters is actually 3.6 quarts. That extra .2 quart will raise the oil level in the glass a bit.

 

[tomatocity]

While we're splitting hairs, the manual says 3.4 liters not quarts. 3.4 liters is actually 3.6 quarts. That extra .2 quart will raise the oil level in the glass a bit.

Scotty Boy you made my day

I had mislead myself for three days. Before I got my manual I had heard it was 3.4 quarts so everytime I read the manual I saw 3.4 quarts and not the CORRECT 3.6 quarts. Just added the .2 quarts and the oil level is good to go. Thank you.

Now for another 250 miles so I can change oil and filter for the 600 mile service.

 

[roy]

Tip of the day concerning oil change:
Fill the oil filter with oil before installing, no oil light on when you fire it up. I have been doing this for years on suzukis. It worked like a charm on the yamaha yesterday. When filling oil filter be patient let it soak in real good that way you are assured it's completely full.

 

[k woo]

Tip of the day concerning oil change:
Fill the oil filter with oil before installing, no oil light on when you fire it up. I have been doing this for years on suzukis. It worked like a charm on the yamaha yesterday. When filling oil filter be patient let it soak in real good that way you are assured it's completely full.

+1, been doing this for years myself

 

[Kevhunts]

- There are two drain plugs and two crush washers, correct?

Yes, two drain plugs and washers. 17ft/Lb torque for both.

- The drain plugs are removed and oil drained while on the side stand?

Yes, remove both and drain on side stand or center stand. I started on the center stand and then when it looked like it was done I put it on the side stand to get a little more out.

- The oil is filled while on the center stand?

Yes, re-torque the drain plugs and fill on center stand.

- Quarts of oil used for an oil change?

3.4liters with filter change.

- Oil filter, various?

Yamaha - 5GH-13440-20 (2.5"), there are others available. Check Dallara's thread in Tech for a list.

Change your final drive oil too. Hypoid gear oil API-GL5. I used Spectro. .2 liters. Both drain plug and filler plug torque to 17ft/lbs.

SpeedStar,
Did you replace the crush washers? Are the engine washers copper? or do they resemble a sparkplug crush washer?
My dealer did not have a current listing but insisted all washers were part# 214-11198-01

 

[roy]

Crush washers are copper, I reused mine with no issues.

 

[Kevhunts]

Crush washers are copper, I reused mine with no issues.

Roy,

Did you anneal them?

 

[roy]

Nah just wiped off old oil and stuck them back on there. All dry. Never had to replace a Suzuki washer in 30 years. My wifes Honda S2000 car has to have a new one every oil change. My dealer stocks the s10 washers so next time I will prolly change them.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Nah just wiped off old oil and stuck them back on there. All dry. Never had to replace a Suzuki washer in 30 years. My wifes Honda S2000 car has to have a new one every oil change. My dealer stocks the s10 washers so next time I will prolly change them.

Same with me.. I change the crush washer every other change or so.... never had a leak or a seep... good to go....

 

[tomatocity]

A couple things Oil Change related.
- the difference of 3.4 quarts and 3.6 quarts is 6.4 ounces. That is the amount I did not initially add during the first oil change. The oil level was corrected before too many miles.
- keep an empty quart oil bottle so you can measure the .6 quart / 19.2 ounces. you can use it to drain the excess from the funnel (overkill, sure).

Funnel
- has anyone found a funnel that works well with the Super Tenere? I want something that allows an oil bottle to sit in it and drain. I have the perfect funnel for the KLR but it does not work with the Super Tenere.

1,000 miles
- changing oil now for the 1,000 mile interval. logging 1,000 miles sometimes felt like work. now more fun and less work. maybe a trip or two.

 

[ptfjjj]

Roy,

Did you anneal them?

Anneal? what's that? I've done oil changes for all of my cars and motorcycles over my 30+ years of driving, and I've never changed an oil drain plug gasket. I never even knew that it was recommended? But I never had a leak, either. Guess I've just been lucky?

 

[Kevhunts]

Anneal? what's that? I've done oil changes for all of my cars and motorcycles over my 30+ years of driving, and I've never changed an oil drain plug gasket. I never even knew that it was recommended? But I never had a leak, either. Guess I've just been lucky?

Heating up the metal to soften it again. A lot of folks will take those copper washers, heat them with a hand held propane torch, and then use them again.
Technically, you should not use them twice (I know, I know, you've done it for years) but you shouldn't. Especially in high pressure fuel/injection systems and never resuse them in brake hydraulics! (unless you want to find brake fluid that seeped out on your paint the next morning!)

 

[fredz43]

I have never done it, but some of my friends that have vintage 2 stroke dirt bikes with haad gaskets say they anneal them by heating them until cherry red and then quenching in cold water.

My vintage 2 stroke dirt bikes don't have head gaskets.