Rear drive maintenance at tire changes

[fredz43]

If any of you are going to Lowe's, Home Depot, or any other place to find the Threaded Stock Coupler... take a 19mm socket or wrench with you or walk over to the tools section and barrow a 19mm socket or wrench... use the tool to fit the Coupler. It does not matter the size of the ID.

I just measured the Coupler in my tire kit and it is OD=19mm ID=.5"

I went back to Lowes and got a refund for the 1/2 inch threaded rod coupler. This time I had my 19 mm socket with me. I can tell you that the Lowes in Sopringfield, IL does not have a threaded rod coupler that will fit a 19 mm socket. Same as my local Ace Hardware, the 1/2 inch is too small and the 5/8 inch is too big. I do have a homemade tool that I made from a hex head bolt with two nuts that works, though.

 

[jajpko]

I went back to Lowes and got a refund for the 1/2 inch threaded rod coupler. This time I had my 19 mm socket with me. I can tell you that the Lowes in Sopringfield, IL does not have a threaded rod coupler that will fit a 19 mm socket. Same as my local Ace Hardware, the 1/2 inch is too small and the 5/8 inch is too big. I do have a homemade tool that I made from a hex head bolt with two nuts that works, though.

That's really strange. I just bought another one from HD and it was a perfect fit. Did yours come in an orange plastic bag? I would think the size would have to be the same for the people using these in construction. Their 3/4" wrenches would need to fit to do the job..

 

[fredz43]

That's really strange. I just bought another one from HD and it was a perfect fit. Did yours come in an orange plastic bag? I would think the size would have to be the same for the people using these in construction. Their 3/4" wrenches would need to fit to do the job..

Hi Jim,

It was in a plastic bag, but I don't think it was orange, rather it was clear. The package has a Hillman brand name and a H#881653 part number.

 

[jajpko]

Hi Jim,

It was in a plastic bag, but I don't think it was orange, rather it was clear. The package has a Hillman brand name and a H#881653 part number.

Here is a link to HD and the part. It says 25 to a box, but they sell 1ea.
http://tinyurl.com/bn7agjr

 

[fredz43]

Here is a link to HD and the part. It says 25 to a box, but they sell 1ea.
http://tinyurl.com/bn7agjr

Thanks, Jim. I printed that and will take it to my nearest Home Depot the next time I head that way. 36 miles is my closest one. If it ever cools off around here, I wil take a ride.

 

[erenet]

The 4 nuts and washers are visible in the following photos I snapped when doing this.

Nice work, what is the torque for the 4 nuts, thanks.

 

[tomatocity]

The word "snapped" concerns me when referring to nuts and bolts

Yes, what is the torque of the four nuts?

 

[markjenn]

Yes, what is the torque of the four nuts?

30 ft-lb. But a couple are hard to get a torque wrench on so they're often just done by feel.

- Mark

 

[Old Git Ray]

Just to throw a spanner in the works, so to speak, Yamaha have the same lack of grease problem on the steering head bearings.

I found this on the S10 and on my previous 2008 XT660Z (which seized over the winter with rust). Fortunately, it is a relatively easy problem to sort out and is a good excuse to check the play on the bearings at the same time.

IIRC (it is a while since I did it), when on the main stand, it is just a case of removing the top clamp, gently tie the bars and top clamp back on cloth over the tank and then carefully remove the two castellated nuts bearing in mind that the forks (and wheel etc) will drop down suddenly if not controlled.
One can then heavily grease the bearings and reassemble to the the specs. (initially 38 ft/lb to settle, then loosen and re-torque to 18 ft/lb).

 

[markjenn]

IIRC (it is a while since I did it), when on the main stand, it is just a case of removing the top clamp, gently tie the bars and top clamp back on cloth over the tank and then carefully remove the two castellated nuts bearing in mind that the forks (and wheel etc) will drop down suddenly if not controlled.
One can then heavily grease the bearings and reassemble to the the specs. (initially 38 ft/lb to settle, then loosen and re-torque to 18 ft/lb).

I believe this only does half the job - there is a lower bearing and you can't get to it without removing the bottom triple.

- Mark

 

[Dallara]

I believe this only does half the job - there is a lower bearing and you can't get to it without removing the bottom triple.

- Mark

I just did it - both top and bottom tapered bearings - while I have the forks off getting the Penske valving installed and the forks rebuilt. It was easy as it could be. Not the least bit difficult nor frustrating.

Oddly enough, however, despite my bike having 21,000 miles on it *AND* the internal fork bushings showing a fair amount of wear, both the upper and lower steering head bearings were not only nice and tight before I pulled them out, but were quite nicely greased. Not anywhere near *dry* of grease as some have reported. Grease appeared to be of nice quality, too, as well as there being an adequate amount. Everything was in perfect shape and could have easily gone another 20-K.

Since I was already there I went ahead and cleaned the bearings, then re-greased them with a nice mix of Krytox, Honda Moly 60 paste, and Amsoil Synthetic waterproof grease.

One note... Read the service manual instructions *CAREFULLY* (I believe the steering head assembly section starts on page 3-19), and note that the second notched steering head nut goes on *ONLY* a firm finger-tight. Try to tighten it more than that and you will distort and damage the rubber o-ring gasket that goes between the two notched stem nuts. Also note the orientation of your torque wrench to the special tool wrench for the notched stem nut as specified in the service manual.

All in it's a simple task, and can easily be done in about 20 to 30 minutes once the forks are pulled out.

Just FYI...

Dallara



~

 

[Old Git Ray]

I believe this only does half the job - there is a lower bearing and you can't get to it without removing the bottom triple.

- Mark

As stated above, the lower bearing is also exposed when the top yoke and castle nuts are removed.

 

[markjenn]

As stated above, the lower bearing is also exposed when the top yoke and castle nuts are removed.

You're aware that there is a bearing at the very bottom of the steering head, 6" below the castle nuts, right? AFAIK, there is no way you can get to this bearing without lowering the triple tree out of the steering head and to do this you have to remove the wheel and forks.

One of us is missing something.

- Mark

 

[Dallara]

You're aware that there is a bearing at the very bottom of the steering head, 6" below the castle nuts, right? AFAIK, there is no way you can get to this bearing without lowering the triple tree out of the steering head and to do this you have to remove the wheel and forks.

One of us is missing something.

- Mark

Geez, Mark...

Seems you want to constantly imply that *YOU* are the only person to have ever actually worked on a motorcycle, picked up a wrench, or read a service manual. It's fairly obvious - at least to me and I imagine everyone else here - that Old Git Ray not only is very, very aware that there is a lower steering head bearing, but in addition to that is quite probably a more experienced wrench that you are.

BTW, I have serviced many, many a lower steering head bearing in my over 40 years of motorcycle mechanics *WITHOUT* removing the front wheel or the forks. You simply remove the upper triple clamp and lower the wheel, forks, and lower triple clamp all down together... I done this with overhead hoists, hanging the front end of the bike off a lift, and even just jacking the front end high enough with the rear wheel blocked up.

So perhaps you are right... *YOU* are missing something.

In this case I will admit I did remove the front wheel, forks, etc. to service my lower (and upper) steering head bearing, but that's primarily because I was pulling the forks for a complete rebuild/revalve, replacing my front brake pad sets, and mounting a new front tire.

Dallara



~

 

[roy]

And GOD has spoken, all further input on this subject is a complete waste of time. ::002::





BTW Mark he knows his typing and constant ranting very well so leave him be it's his world ::009::

 

[tomatocity]

Whats with the NASCAR attitude... Full Moon, nope. I think some of us should consider using PM's to show our dislike. With that... enough said.

 

[snakebitten]

Nascar Attitude?

I'll admit that there seems to be more than the usual amount of caustic "attitude" around here, but labeling such as "Nascar attitude" is likely to catch some nice folks in that net.

You ever met Joe Gibbs?

 

[AndyCBR]

The shaft splines on the pumpkin side are not oil bath. The manual states a moly paste, like Honda 60.
I had mine apart to check it out recently.. If you do take it apart, you will need new seals

Hey guys I was considering taking this assembly apart and had the oil seal in hand but could never figure out whether that drive coupler in the rear is in the oil bath or not.

From another thread below it appears that coupler is bathed in oil. Perhaps the factory manuals recommendation of paste is for assembly purposes only.

That makes sense as that spline set is sliding back and forth inside the drive coupler as the swingarm goes up and down and any paste would be quickly wiped away from the back and forth motion.

So from what I can tell cleaning the shaft itself and lubricating the forward splines is all you can do with regards to the pumpkin.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=4652.30

 

[markjenn]

From another thread below it appears that coupler is bathed in oil. Perhaps the factory manuals recommendation of paste is for assembly purposes only.

Neither end of the drive shaft splines is "bathed in oil". The service manual recommends moly paste on the final drive (aft) end and lithium grease on the universal joint (forward) end.

- Mark

 

[AndyCBR]

Neither end of the drive shaft splines is "bathed in oil". The service manual recommends moly paste on the final drive (aft) end and lithium grease on the universal joint (forward) end.

- Mark

I think if you look at the thread I mentioned the rear coupler appears to be as there are 2 holes in the coupler. OP in that thread actually had a leak repaired under warranty due to that seal leaking.

There are 2 oil seals, one large one that the female coupler rides on and another one forward of the shaft.

Check out that thread.

Tough to explain OP's oil leak there if no oil is present?