Rear drive maintenance at tire changes

[tomatocity]

Getting ready to change the rear tire,i dont have a big enough allen wrench to pull the axle after taking off the Axle Nut.What size allen wrench do i have to get? Thanks..Reddawg

19mm

 

[pqsqac]

Check the end of your spark plug sockets if you have any on hand. Some of them have hex head ends that will fit the axle if you turn them around and run an extension in backwards.

 

[dcstrom]

19mm

One thing about the rear axle - you don't NEED to have a 19mm hex to remove it. Just leave the the clamp bolt tight (this will stop the axle turning), remove the 27mm nut on the left, loosen the clamp, then tap the axle through till you can get a grip from the right side.

You DO need one for the front, however.

 

[tomatocity]

One thing about the rear axle - you don't NEED to have a 19mm hex to remove it. Just leave the the clamp bolt tight (this will stop the axle turning), remove the 27mm nut on the left, loosen the clamp, then tap the axle through till you can get a grip from the right side.

You DO need one for the front, however.

Very good tip dcstrom. I have been waiting for someone to post it. Is there any other reason to carry the 19mm Insert and Wrench?

 

[Mikef5000]

Check the end of your spark plug sockets if you have any on hand. Some of them have hex head ends that will fit the axle if you turn them around and run an extension in backwards.

I tried this, all 3 spark plug sockets I have fit perfect within the 19mm hole, but none allow for an extension to be put in backwards (yes I removed the rubber part). You can see the machined metal in here that wouldn't allow it:

I've got new tires coming the end of this week (hopefully), so I'll be pulling it apart for the first time soon!

 

[Dallara]

I tried this, all 3 spark plug sockets I have fit perfect within the 19mm hole, but none allow for an extension to be put in backwards (yes I removed the rubber part). You can see the machined metal in here that wouldn't allow it:

I've got new tires coming the end of this week (hopefully), so I'll be pulling it apart for the first time soon!

Maybe one of these will help...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hex-Axle-Tool-17-19-22-24mm-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-/250646938028

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Tool-Hex-Allen-Axle-Wrench-Adapter-R1-R6-YZF-/180924027752

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0397/

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0355/

I have an aluminum one, similar to the Motion Pro one directly above, though I can't remember where the hell I got it. I even carry it onboard the bike on trips so I'm sure I can pull both axles.

Hope this helps!

Dallara




~

 

[1reddawg]

Thanks dallara for the links, i think i will go with 1 of these!! ::008::

 

[Mikef5000]

Maybe one of these will help...
...linky linky...
Hope this helps!

Dallara

I live within a half mile of Lowes, I'll be picking up a 1/2" threaded rod coupler in the next day or two to go that route. Just wanted to throw out there for anyone counting on the sparkplug socket trick that it may not work.

 

[tomatocity]

I live <snip> Just wanted to throw out there for anyone counting on the sparkplug socket trick that it may not work.

And if it does work you need to carry a 3/8" extension

 

[fredz43]

I live within a half mile of Lowes, I'll be picking up a 1/2" threaded rod coupler in the next day or two to go that route. Just wanted to throw out there for anyone counting on the sparkplug socket trick that it may not work.

I picked one up today at the Lowes in springfield, IL. Got it home and it was the same as the ones stocked locally at Ace Hardware and our local lumber yard, too small. The one for 1/2 threaded rod from Lowes measures 17.4 mm. Made in China like the ones at Ace. Perhaps Lowes is switching vendors? The package has a Hillman brand name and a H#881653.

 

[tomatocity]

If any of you are going to Lowe's, Home Depot, or any other place to find the Threaded Stock Coupler... take a 19mm socket or wrench with you or walk over to the tools section and barrow a 19mm socket or wrench... use the tool to fit the Coupler. It does not matter the size of the ID.

I just measured the Coupler in my tire kit and it is OD=19mm ID=.5"

 

[fredz43]

If any of you are going to Lowe's, Home Depot, or any other place to find the Threaded Stock Coupler... take a 19mm socket or wrench with you or walk over to the tools section and barrow a 19mm socket or wrench... use the tool to fit the Coupler. It does not matter the size of the ID.

I just measured the Coupler in my tire kit and it is OD=19mm ID=.5"

Good advice, Tim. When I tried to find one locally, I had my bike and they let me take them outside to see if they would fit and none did. Today I was in the Big City (Springfield) about an hour away, where there is the closest Lowes and bought the 1/2 inch one that many had found to fit. It looked too small, but I was in my car, so couldn't take it out to try on the bike. I did go to the tool section, looking for something to measure mm and didn't find anything. I didn't think to see if they had a 19 mm socket, but will take mine with me when I have to go back next week. I have my receipt, so will return the one I bought today.

 

[tomatocity]

Good advice, Tim. When I tried to find one locally, I had my bike and they let me take them outside to see if they would fit and none did. Today I was in the Big City (Springfield) about an hour away, where there is the closest Lowes and bought the 1/2 inch one that many had found to fit. It looked too small, but I was in my car, so couldn't take it out to try on the bike. I did go to the tool section, looking for something to measure mm and didn't find anything. I didn't think to see if they had a 19 mm socket, but will take mine with me when I have to go back next week. I have my receipt, so will return the one I bought today.

19mm = 3/4"

 

[Twisties]

Pulled my pumpkin today. Found the drive shaft already coated in something protective. Plenty of grease on the splines (although I replaced it anyway). All looked great. As best I can figure the the correct torque for the nuts is 30 ft lbs. I set them finger tight, reassembled the wheel and torqued the axle, then torqued them down. I found I couldn't get my torque wrench on the upper inside nut with the wheel in place.... hand tightened it. I'll probably do this every 12 - 20 k miles.

 

[stevepsd]

Pulled my pumpkin today. Found the drive shaft already coated in something protective. Plenty of grease on the splines (although I replaced it anyway). All looked great. As best I can figure the the correct torque for the nuts is 30 ft lbs. I set them finger tight, reassembled the wheel and torqued the axle, then torqued them down. I found I couldn't get my torque wrench on the upper inside nut with the wheel in place.... hand tightened it. I'll probably do this every 12 - 20 k miles.

What...no pics? You spoiled everyone with your front/rear wheel R&R guide.......

 

[Twisties]

What...no pics? You spoiled everyone with your front/rear wheel R&R guide.......

I thought this thread already had enough... ::008::

 

[drengmike]

A note for when folks are changing tires, especially for those new to Yamaha shaft drive:

When changing the rear tire, pop the 4 bolts that hold the rear differential, the pumpkin easily slides aft for removal, and do 3 things.

(1) Lube the shaft splines. Wipe off whatever is left of the factory grease and apply new. I've never heard of a Yamaha spline set failing but it is a wear point and tire changes are your opportunity. btw, the lower end of outboard motors use similar spline drives, have similar corrosion concerns, the grease works perfectly, and it's available in almost any car parts store.

(2) Spray some ACF-50, CRC, or other anti-corrosive spray on the shaft and other exposed metal. Again, never heard of a failure, but there will probably already be the start of some surface corrosion. The Max, FJR, and Tenere ALL do it. A quick spritz or wipe can stop it.

(3) There is a drain hole in the shaft housing that dirt and bugs can plug. Check that it is clear.

When re-installing, the shaft slides in easily, no circlips or other tricks. And it is EASY to overlook the washers under the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin in place, so watch you haven't lost one.

Finally, put some anti corrosion spray on the axle, because it will rust and be hard to take out the next time if you don't.

NICE! Thank YOU!

 

[Mikef5000]

I picked one up today at the Lowes in springfield, IL. Got it home and it was the same as the ones stocked locally at Ace Hardware and our local lumber yard, too small. The one for 1/2 threaded rod from Lowes measures 17.4 mm. Made in China like the ones at Ace. Perhaps Lowes is switching vendors? The package has a Hillman brand name and a H#881653.

Why didn't I see this before??? Bummer! I bought a couple from Lowes as well, they're also 17mm. They got the job done this time, but I'm going to find a better solution for the long term.

In any case, I put my new tires on yesterday, and took the shaft apart per these instructions while I was at it. I found all splines to be thoroughly coated in lube still, but the shaft was dry (and clean/rust-free). I wiped it all down and lubed it up with new Moly grease. The front axle was still coated in grease (which I replaced), but the rear was bone dry with corrosion starting. I lubed it all up as well. Should be good for another 10k miles I hope.

Thanks for the instructions! I've never owned a shaft drive bike so I thought the oil was all there was too it.

 

[markjenn]

I've never owned a shaft drive bike so I thought the oil was all there was too it.

According to Yamaha, changing final drive oil is all you should ever have to do. There is nothing wrong with pulling the pumpkin now and then and doing a regrease as preventative maintenance, but doing it every tire change (or even every 10K) is probably overkill.

- Mark

 

[Mikef5000]

I'll probably use the visible grease (between the hub and pumpkin) to determine if I need to take the shaft off again to grease the inner splines again. Compared to what goes in to pulling both wheels (for tires), there's really nothing to popping the 4 more bolts to add some lube.