Rear drive maintenance at tire changes

4n6guy

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I realize that it has been a long time since anybody has posted to this thread and that the topic has been thoroughly discussed, but I have to say thanks to the inmates with mechanical know-how and experience for posting these tips! I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but learning and trying to do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I had a Clymer manual for a previous motorcycle and learned lots there but nothing like that is available for the S-Ten :(. Until such time, and I'm sure after, I'll continue to rely on the information in these threads! Thanks. I followed the procedures for front and rear wheel removal and re-install, changed tires, and checked the drive shaft and lubed the splines. Good to go! ::012::
 

AVGeek

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4n6Guy said:
I realize that it has been a long time since anybody has posted to this thread and that the topic has been thoroughly discussed, but I have to say thanks to the inmates with mechanical know-how and experience for posting these tips! I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but learning and trying to do as much of my own maintenance as possible. I had a Clymer manual for a previous motorcycle and learned lots there but nothing like that is available for the S-Ten :(. Until such time, and I'm sure after, I'll continue to rely on the information in these threads! Thanks. I followed the procedures for front and rear wheel removal and re-install, changed tires, and checked the drive shaft and lubed the splines. Good to go! ::012::
I don't think our bike is popular enough (yet!) for Clymer to do a manual. So the factory service manual would be a good investment.
 

4n6guy

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AVGeek said:
I don't think our bike is popular enough (yet!) for Clymer to do a manual. So the factory service manual would be a good investment.
I agree and will be investing in the service manual!
 

mingo

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I just removed the rear wheel to have the tire replaced and thought about lubing the drive shaft.


Just to be clear, once the pumpkin is removed, the drive shaft will come out with it.

How hard is it to re-insert the drive shaft splines back into the transmission side?


Is the drive shaft easily removed from the pumpkin for cleaning and lubrication?
 

Karson

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mingo said:
I just removed the rear wheel to have the tire replaced and thought about lubing the drive shaft.


Just to be clear, once the pumpkin is removed, the drive shaft will come out with it.

How hard is it to re-insert the drive shaft splines back into the transmission side?


Is the drive shaft easily removed from the pumpkin for cleaning and lubrication?
Not hard. This should help. Maybe even take it a step further and lube the swing arm bearings?

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=7138.0
 

mingo

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Karson said:
Not hard. This should help. Maybe even take it a step further and lube the swing arm bearings?

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=7138.0

I removed the pumpkin but was unable to remove the driveshaft from the pumpkin. Is there a trick to getting it out? I saw a circlip but didn't want to mess with it.


I lubed the splines on the U joint side of the shaft and re-installed.


What's the trick to getting the shaft out of the pumpkin?
 

mingo

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Any tips on how to remove the drive shaft out of the pumpkin once the shaft and pumpkin are out?
 

Don in Lodi

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On my Royal Star the dust seal has to come out of the differential with the drive shaft. That end is a larger diameter spline than the other.
 

AKC Tenere

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These posts are a classic example of how a massive amount of knowledge is gained through these forums and as a new member I thank everyone who take the time and trouble to post and help us other owners.
I was frustratingly confused to how the final drive system worked in detail, even after looking at the manual, but all the info on these threads have totally cleared up any doubts I had.
(Especially the two oil lubricating holes).
I really appreciate it. :)
 

viroid

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How many people are using the Loctite or Jet-Lube brands of low-friction moly? Anyone using aerosolized dry moly?

I ran across this list of interchangeable 'solutions' and thought it might be handy.

http://www.mrosolutions.com/interchange.php



...v

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

Checkswrecks

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Rasher said:
Give us a clue it sill makes no sense to me ::008::

Edited the text.
Slacken means that fasteners are loosened and re-torqued. In this case it's the four nuts which hold the pumpkin and as best I know, it was the VMax owners who started this with the Yamaha rear drives, similar to installing the front axle. Most people won't and it probably won't make a difference, but it could eliminate a load on the bolted joint and on the axle if there is a very small misalignment.
 

EricV

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mingo said:
Any tips on how to remove the drive shaft out of the pumpkin once the shaft and pumpkin are out?
Yes, DON'T. It's not necessary or intended to be done as PM. They stay together unless seals need to be replaced. Removing the drive shaft from the pumpkin requires draining the pumpkin and will likely cause more harm than good. The end there is lubricated with gear oil, so there is no reason for you to mess with it.
 

ace50

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EricV said:
Yes, DON'T. It's not necessary or intended to be done as PM. They stay together unless seals need to be replaced. Removing the drive shaft from the pumpkin requires draining the pumpkin and will likely cause more harm than good. The end there is lubricated with gear oil, so there is no reason for you to mess with it.
::026::
My Royal Star (heavier bike with similar HP) with 55K on it showed hardly any wear on the splines to u-joint and it was never serviced there before.
Other end is lubed with oil from pumpkin so, leave it alone.
 

Don in Lodi

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ace50 said:
::026::
My Royal Star (heavier bike with similar HP) with 55K on it showed hardly any wear on the splines to u-joint and it was never serviced there before.
Other end is lubed with oil from pumpkin so, leave it alone.
Hmm, on mine there was an inner and outer seal, the space where the drive line engages the coupler was a dry space. Inner seal for liquid, outer seal for dust. When the inner seal fails liquid gets by the dust seal and makes a mess. I did the V-Max swap back and forth a couple times, the coupler and splines were only greased, no gear oil... until the last swap when the inner seal failed and the stocker went back on. Still have that leaking V-Max geared Royal diff under the bench.
 

JBB

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Just wanting to update some old experiences. Some had used a 1/2" all thread rod coupler from Lowes/Home Depot to remove their front and rear axles, and then for awhile people were reporting that the couplers didn't fit anymore. I picked up a " 1/2"-13x1-3/4 Coupling Nut" in an orange bag today at Home Depot, and it couldn't be a better fit. Perhaps they've changed suppliers again. Thanks to this great site, and particularly this thread, for this idea in the first place. It was $1.31. :)
 

mebgardner

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Thanks to all who posted, edited, and maintained this thread. You folks did a wonderful job at preserving he "tribal knowledge".

The "big book" service manual indicates to use Lithium Soap (LS) based lube for all rear driveline application points, except the drive shaft splines within the "pumpkin". Those are indicated to receive an application of Moly paste based lube (*not* moly grease based lube, a different product).

I live in the desert southwest of the US. I can tell you that LS lube dries out and becomes ineffective very quickly here. It dries up and falls off.

The previous advice, in this thread and others (rear wheel replacement with pictorial), to use Moly based lube as a substitute for LS based, is good advice in rear driveline applications. I said that very carefully: in rear driveline applications.

Clean carefully before applying it, and Use it sparingly when applying it. "A little goes a long way."
 

bnschroder

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What brand of Moly Grease do people use for lubing the shaft splines? I am on Amazon and don't want to spend $30 for a tub of Liqui Moly but I see MoS2 Engine Assembly paste in reasonable tubes. Is that the right stuff?
 
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