How to gain access to the Diagnostic Mode CO adjustment

[colorider]

I finally re-adjusted mine last weekend. I'm at 180 degrees from full-in. The CO setting is +4. Re-harmonized.

The bike's running great. S-mode is a lot more fun.

I hope that someday we can ALL get these dialed in!!!! When it warms up a bit and I can take some more test rides, I hope to tweak mine a bit more again.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Rod,

Did you ever take those pig tails of the TB? Shop around this winter for a good deal on a PCV and be done with it... Ride anywhere, anytime and have the dream machine you really are looking for...... I don't sell them but have a few places with some good deals... Im a believer now, knowing what I had,........... and now what i have !....... ::26:: ::26:: Ill send all the maps you want ! These are all the Auto Tuned maps... ::008::

 

[colorider]

Rod,

Did you ever take those pig tails of the TB? Shop around this winter for a good deal on a PCV and be done with it... Ride anywhere, anytime and have the dream machine you really are looking for...... I don't sell them but have a few places with some good deals... Im a believer now, knowing what I had,........... and now what i have !....... ::26:: ::26:: Ill send all the maps you want ! These are all the Auto Tuned maps... ::008::

Yes, I removed the pigtails quite a while back - before my Texas trip. I think they were causing some of my problems although I never had a warning light.

 

[tomatocity]

Rod, what are your current settings? Jaxon, is there a post where you covered the Before and After?

 

[colorider]

Rod, what are your current settings? Jaxon, is there a post where you covered the Before and After?

The standard (right TB) is 3/4 turn CCW and the left is balanced to it. The CO is a either +3 or +4, not sure which without going out to the stable and checking.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Rod, what are your current settings? Jaxon, is there a post where you covered the Before and After?

I think there are two post that though out the post I was posting what I was doing and how it effected my machine. Here are the cliff notes:

Bought the bike and put a few hundred miles on it. It had a terrible idle bouncing all around and almost dieing. Also had vibrations in different RPM ranges. At the time I thought this was going to be normal and didnt dig it that much.

I then performed the sync at 3/4 turn out on (R) master and then synced up the (L) slave. And tuned my CO to +6..... From that moment the bike was much better. The idle was MUCH smoother (and with out writing a novel this second) and the over all power was much more progressive and much of the vibes where gone. I rode this 'set up' for three or four weeks. Over all it was a vast improvement over my "off the show room floor" bike....

Then I moved onto the power commander V with auto tune. I also took the CO back to zero. This set up once again took my bike to another level. Its even more smooth, no popping in the exhaust, pulls like a monster from any RPM, Etc.. Etc... What has also helped is SPEED and KEES also having this set up and all of us exchanging maps and working on different altitudes, and different RPM ranges. As of this second I Avg 48mpg and Ive seen over 50. The power is AWESOME "IMOP" and the bikes performance is flawless. The RPM's sit at 1100 rpms like its an in line four engine and does not move.. When I look down and see that needle sitting at 1100 verses the sock bike that was jumping all around it makes me smile..... Over all, Unfortunately it was a good amount of work and money to buy extra parts to get the bike to work like it should have from the factory. With this being said, and now having the bike work the way it does it was 100% worth it. And I would recommend this to any US Super Tenere owner with out sounding like a used car sales man..... You can only tell people with out the set up 'how good' it is so many times before your ::002::

If you would like more specifics feel free to ask, Ill be happy to answer your questions! If anyone buys a PCV or auto tune and would like to try some of the maps just let me know. I can send you a few to get started... They are the auto tuned maps, not just static maps from DJ/PC.....

 

[GoNotShow]

If you would like more specifics feel free to ask, Ill be happy to answer your questions! If anyone buys a PCV or auto tune and would like to try some of the maps just let me know. I can send you a few to get started... They are the auto tuned maps, not just static maps from DJ/PC.....

Are you still running the stock exhaust and air filter? Just wondering if all those gains came solely from the PCV, air screw and CO adjustment...

 

[~TABASCO~]

No, I have an Akrapovic can, (not the normal ST Akra can) with ARROW headers.. I do have a stock air filter. My BMC air filter from Italy will be here in a few weeks.. Right now I have changed:

- Air Screw 3/4 out
- CO is zero
- Headers
- Muffler
- PCV (blue-eyes, speed, my map)
- Auto tune

Totally kicks butt ! ::008::

 

[CUCVGRV]

Just wanted to make a note.

The diag and CO access works on California models too. I just finished the TBS and bumped my CO by 6 points

 

[Don in Lodi]

Just wanted to make a note.

The diag and CO access works on California models too. I just finished the TBS and bumped my CO by 6 points

That was with the diagnostic wire grounded?

 

[CUCVGRV]

Yes the wire needs to be grounded. I did try without grounding the green wire that only allowed access to diag function only. I didn't want to disturb the wire harnesss so I used a straight pin to back probe the connector the used a jumper wire to ground. I took the bike out for a ride it runs much smoother.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Yes the wire needs to be grounded. I did try without grounding the green wire that only allowed access to diag function only. I didn't want to disturb the wire harnesss so I used a straight pin to back probe the connector the used a jumper wire to ground. I took the bike out for a ride it runs much smoother.

Same result I got. I set the CO to 6 a month or more ago, didn't mess with the mixture at the time. Runs nice, doesn't seem to have the lag others have talked about.
Haven't ridden for a few days, I gotta get out... ::26::

 

[HoebSTer]

I made my adjustment last night and went +3 on both cylinders. Is it normal to make the changes to each cylinder, then simply shut off the key to lock these new settings into place? That is what the manual said to do, nothing about going back to main menu first.

 

[jajpko]

I made my adjustment last night and went +3 on both cylinders. Is it normal to make the changes to each cylinder, then simply shut off the key to lock these new settings into place? That is what the manual said to do, nothing about going back to main menu first.

That's fine Jeff. If you want to make sure they took, start the process again and when you see the 3 in both cylinders your good to go.

 

[HoebSTer]

japako,
Oh sure, now that I have gone and installed the rear seat cover again, along with the grab handles and saddlebag brackets!!! I just had the front wheel off before X-mas, and I just picked up some fork seal covers which require me to remove the fork tubes from the bike!!! AARRGGHH!!!

 

[jajpko]

japako,
Oh sure, now that I have gone and installed the rear seat cover again, along with the grab handles and saddlebag brackets!!! I just had the front wheel off before X-mas, and I just picked up some fork seal covers which require me to remove the fork tubes from the bike!!! AARRGGHH!!!

That's ok, this time you can splice a wire in and run it under the seat. I used a female bullet connector but a spade would work as well. Then another lead with the male connector and a small alligator clamp. Done.. Then you don't have to remove the rear seat if you want to change the settings.

Bring your daughter out to observe, never to early to learn about bikes.. ::025::

 

[erenet]

Finally did the CO adjustment to +6, but almost grounded the wrong wire, lifted the seat just to put the wire/plug in place when finished, and found another one there.

On the fist post of this thread I only see one wire/plug, why two on my bike?

 

[stevepsd]

Finally did the CO adjustment to +6, but almost grounded the wrong wire, lifted the seat just to put the wire/plug in place when finished, and found another one there.

On the fist post of this thread I only see one wire/plug, why two on my bike?

That plug is the ABS test connector.

 

[Old Git Ray]

japako,
Oh sure, now that I have gone and installed the rear seat cover again, along with the grab handles and saddlebag brackets!!! I just had the front wheel off before X-mas, and I just picked up some fork seal covers which require me to remove the fork tubes from the bike!!! AARRGGHH!!!

Use it as an excuse to stuff some more grease around your steering headstock bearings. Its only a couple more nuts (ok - 5). I have had some bad experiences with lack of grease in these areas on Yamahas. Although my S10 was OK when I did the same last week.

 

[Old Git Ray]

I have just done these mods, specifically, +6 CO, 3/4 turn out of the screws and put pig tails onto my TBs.

As others have experienced my engine light started to flicker, sometimes when accelerating and sometimes when deceleratring, all when driven hard. Needless to say, I panicked at the time. I think the pig tails will have to go, or be shortened at least.

One of the things the engine light coming on does, is to set up a Fault code in the Diagnostics. Because I need to make the adjustments to stop this happening, I needed to clear the Fault code. Easy when you know how.....but up untill then

I am sure many know how to get rid of them but some do not and the manual is bloody difficult to interpret so I will go through it .

1 ) Set the kill switch to "Off".
2 ) Press both dash buttons together and then turn the ignition on. Hold the buttons for about 10 seconds until the display clears and either "Co" or "Diag" is displayed.
3 ) If "Co" is displayed (as it would be if you had adjusted the CO recently) press the left button to swap it to "Diag".
4 ) Now press both buttons again for about 3 seconds and "d:01" will appear where the clock was. On top of this a number will appear to the left of it (where the ODO is). This number is the fault code if any for that specific diagnostic function. Each d:XX has itown particular part of the bike that it reports on.
5 ) Now press either left or right buttons to scroll through d:01 to d:70 (with gaps). Both buttons do it, one goes forwards and one goes backwards.
6 ) The Diags we are interested in are d:61 and d:62. 61 is the list of codes, 62 is the number of faults and the clear faults one.
7 ) Scroll through to you reach d:61 and watch. If any number other than 00 appears then you have faults reported. These are historical so you may not have the fault now. The reading will slowly scroll through all the fault codes. I had 3 on mine, 14, 30 and 69. 14 is the one we are interested in, it shows either a blocked or open to air tube. This tube is the 3" long one that is removed or tapped into, from the left throttle body for ballancing. (Fault code 30 is the lean angle sensor - I must have laid the bike down or shook it with the ignition turned on at some time, fault code 69 is the wheel sensors - again I must have done something stupid to set this off).
8 ) Move on to d:62. Because I had the 3 different faults, d:62 showed 3. Then turn your kill switch to "Run". This will reset the codes to 00.
9 ) Turn the ignition off.

If you wish to check them, go through the process again to confirm.
One of the good things about these bikes is that the diagnostics will adjust the engine management to accomodate various problems (according to the manual anyway). Either reduce power or shut the bike down to stop it destroying itself....nice.