How to gain access to the Diagnostic Mode CO adjustment

[Bundu]

good info Ray ::008::

Also see fault code table on page 8-101 in Workshop manual

 

[Old Git Ray]

good info Ray ::008::

Also see fault code table on page 8-101 in Workshop manual

Aren't they the ABS codes ?

 

[Bundu]

Aren't they the ABS codes ?

sorry, think you are right - wonder where the other fault codes are in the workshop manual?


edit: aaaah I see now from page 8-36 onwards

 

[Cerenkov]

I don't know if anyone noticed this in the last 10 pages, but, the green wire on US bikes that is grounded to get into the diagnostic mode doesn't connect to anything inside the tip switch. I disconnected the plug and only the other three wires have pins inside the tip switch. Green wire is just hanging out there.

EDIT: Confirmed. If you don't feel like splicing (I've been having a hell of a time finding posi-taps) you can use a small flat-head screwdriver to pop the pin out of the connector and just use an alligator clip to ground it. Then when finished just pop it back in and done!

 

[tomatocity]

I don't know if anyone noticed this in the last 10 pages, but, the green wire on US bikes that is grounded to get into the diagnostic mode doesn't connect to anything inside the tip switch. I disconnected the plug and only the other three wires have pins inside the tip switch. Green wire is just hanging out there.

EDIT: Confirmed. If you don't feel like splicing (I've been having a hell of a time finding posi-taps) you can use a small flat-head screwdriver to pop the pin out of the connector and just use an alligator clip to ground it. Then when finished just pop it back in and done!

Posi-taps at NAPA stores.

 

[jaeger22]

OK so this is kind of cool that the OP with help from his friendly Yamaha mechanic figured how we can adjust the CO value on our USA bikes. I have done he adjustment and set it to +4 just as a trial. I didn't really notice any difference but I don't seem to have the stumble off idle issues to start with. Here is my problem, after reading this thread and also the European (Z model) shop manual, I still don't have a clue what this is doing! ::010:: We are all, as far as I can tell, just randomly adjusting and trying without knowing what we are doing. Or at least I am. And as an engineer, that really bothers me. Can anyone explain what is really going on here?
Questions like; This is a CO adjustment, but we have no CO sensor, only a set of narrow band O2 sensors. So is the ECU calculating the CO level based on O2 reading? From narrow band sensors :question:
What do the numbers mean and how if at all do they relate to O2 levels or AFR :question: It sounds like we are assuming higher CO numbers equate to richer mixture, and that is somewhat logical, but do we know if the ECU is adjusting mixture to hit the set CO value we are programing? If it is reading O2 to determine CO, why would it not just adjust to the correct O2 level to start with??
I actually have both the US and European manuals. The US manual does not mention CO or gas volume anywhere that I can find. The Z model manual gives the procedure as stated above. BUT! It is called "Adjusting the exhaust gas volume" and at the start it states" TIP Be sure to set the CO density level to standard and then adjust the exhaust gas volume" What????? And I can find NO other reference to CO in the manual anywhere.
So my head hurts.
Can anyone out there explain what this all means? I would love to play around with this some more but at this point must admit that I don't know what the FUN I am doing.
Help!!
John

 

[viewdvb]

Old Git Ray
As others have experienced my engine light started to flicker, sometimes when accelerating and sometimes when deceleratring, all when driven hard. Needless to say, I panicked at the time. I think the pig tails will have to go, or be shortened at least.

One of the things the engine light coming on does, is to set up a Fault code in the Diagnostics. Because I need to make the adjustments to stop this happening, I needed to clear the Fault code. Easy when you know how.....but up untill then

The problem with your engine warning light flashing IS the pigtails. It happened to me and I traced the problem to the vacuum sucking the hose flat and telling the engine diagnostics that there was no reading on the vacuum link. The pigtails are a bad idea unless you are CERTAIN that the hose is strong enough to resist the considerable vacuum generated especially on over-run. So we Brits have a real benefit over you Yanks in having the full diagnostics available and detailed in the workshop manual. In passing, my dealer mechanic has an aftermarket can on his TENERE and has played with the CO settings, ending up with over +20. High isn't it? But he seems convinced it is running right. Me? I have no interest in aftermarket cans and my stock settings work just fine.

 

[Dallara]

Old Git Ray
As others have experienced my engine light started to flicker, sometimes when accelerating and sometimes when deceleratring, all when driven hard. Needless to say, I panicked at the time. I think the pig tails will have to go, or be shortened at least.

One of the things the engine light coming on does, is to set up a Fault code in the Diagnostics. Because I need to make the adjustments to stop this happening, I needed to clear the Fault code. Easy when you know how.....but up untill then

The problem with your engine warning light flashing IS the pigtails. It happened to me and I traced the problem to the vacuum sucking the hose flat and telling the engine diagnostics that there was no reading on the vacuum link. The pigtails are a bad idea unless you are CERTAIN that the hose is strong enough to resist the considerable vacuum generated especially on over-run. So we Brits have a real benefit over you Yanks in having the full diagnostics available and detailed in the workshop manual. In passing, my dealer mechanic has an aftermarket can on his TENERE and has played with the CO settings, ending up with over +20. High isn't it? But he seems convinced it is running right. Me? I have no interest in aftermarket cans and my stock settings work just fine.

Amen, Bruddah! Amen!

A ECUunleashed re-flash did everything I wanted for the bike. No stumbles. No hitches. Just smooth, steady fueling and torque flow. And good mileage, too.

Honestly, I think so many out there *WANT* so hard to believe that all the fiddling and futzing does so much that they convince themselves any they do has dramatic effect. Nothing wrong with that. If it makes you feel good then do it, but in my experience it's often hard to make really quantifiable improvements without lots of time, money, equipment, and effort.

I know some will say "Well, then why did you do the ECUnleashed re-flash?" That's simple. I wanted to eliminate the fly-by-wire throttle restrictions in the first 3 gears and smooth the throttle right off idle. At the time that was all ECUnleashed claimed to do, and it was completely reversible. No harm, no foul, if I wanted to swap back to stock, so I got it done. And it worked for exactly what I wanted. But what about the expense? Well, it was certainly cheaper than most all the aftermarket cans out there, and I knew the parameters were arrived at with some considerable dyno time and experience involved, so to me it was the most cost effective alternative.

BTW, I've done different types of roll-ons, etc. with a couple of other S-10's that have pipes, etc. and I've never lost a bike length... And that's despite my own portliness.

I made a jumper and played with the CO adjustment some, but to be honest, no matter where I set it I couldn't ascertain any improvement whatsoever. I had much the same experience with my FJR after I did the "Barbarian Jumper Mod" to gain access to the CO adjustment there. Even did some timed/distance runs with the FJR and different CO settings and no gain, ever.

Just my two centavos... YMMV. If it feels good to you, do it... But just be honest with yourself about any gains.

Dallara




~

 

[dcstrom]

I having a confusing time with my fuel economy. I kept track of it riding 10,000 miles cross-country, and averaged 42mpg, and was frequently in the mid-40's, with a high of 52. Then at the 24000 mile service the dealer adjusted to the CO settings (I don't know to what) and since then I've been getting crappy economy, usually under 40mpg. Timing just happened to coincide with the introduction of winter gas in California, which I'm told kills fuel economy.

I talked to the service manager and he said the CO settings shouldn't affect fuel economy, since they only affect the low-speed circuit (?).

Ok, if I assume winter gas in CA is the problem, what will happen when I get into Mexico? I have no idea if they have a "winter blend" here as well, but after about 5 tanks of Mexican gas I don't see any improvement back to my old levels. It's costing me about $3/tank in lost fuel economy.

So my question is, before I go resetting the CO back to stock, did ANYONE see a significant decline in fuel economy after doing this procedure?

Trevor

 

[fredz43]

Trevor,

As was asked in another thread when you talked about the service tech setting the CO, are you sure that is what was done? I ask because it is not readily available on USA bikes without splicing into the wire on the tip over switch and temporarily grounding it as mentioned in this thread and not something that most service departments do as part of regular service. It is not called for at 24,000 miles, or any other service listed in the owners manual. The TBS sync is called for however, and my understanding is that affects the low speed circuit. Iwonder if that is what they did and somehow this got lost in translation.

I would try to get in touch with the service department o clarify just exactly waht was done. If for some reason they did readjust the CO, I would ask what number did they set it to and why did they do that as part of a regular maintenance check.

 

[dcstrom]

Thanks Fred,

The bike was in for the 24k service, they offered to do the CO adjustment, said they do it on every S10 that comes through, so I said go ahead. I figured they had a Yamaha tool to make it quick and easy, why not? But maybe they did do the splicing, I'll have to check and see if there's any sign of that.

I spoke to the service manager about the settings but they weren't recorded, just that the CO was done, and the tech who did the job wasn't there that day. Maybe I should try them again.

Trevor,

As was asked in another thread when you talked about the service tech setting the CO, are you sure that is what was done? I ask bec

 

[fredz43]

Perhaps they did temporarily jumper the green wire to ground and adjusted it, I just find that unusual as a aprt of maintenance checks. Why don't you take a look at this thread and identify that green wire and temporarily ground it and then go thru the procedure to see where the CO is set on each cylinder? If they are anything but 0, put them back to 0 and you will be back where they were before they were screwed with. You can just temporarily slip a bare wire into the connector and then ground the other end to do this. Many of us spliced into there so that we could access it easily the next time. Once that wire is grounded, it only takes a minute to check and adjust the CO.

 

[dcstrom]

Fred,

it's not part of a usual check, just something they offered to do. I did notice a performance difference and would like to keep it that way if possible, but not if it kills my fuel economy.

Yep my next step was to reset to zero - I just wondered if others had seen their fuel economy take a dive. I gather not?

Perhaps they did temporarily jumper the green wire to ground and adjusted it, I just find that unusual as a aprt of maintenance checks. Why don't you take a look at this thread and identify that green wire and temporarily ground it and then go thru the procedure to see where the CO is set on each cylinder? If they are anything but 0, put them back to 0 and you will be back where they were before they were screwed with. You can just temporarily slip a bare wire into the connector and then ground the other end to do this. Many of us spliced into there so that we could access it easily the next time. Once that wire is grounded, it only takes a minute to check and adjust the CO.

 

[BWC]

So my question is, before I go resetting the CO back to stock, did ANYONE see a significant decline in fuel economy after doing this procedure?

Trevor

Myself and another owner have done the CO adjustment to +5 with no noticable loss of fuel mileage as compared to before the adjustment. Both bikes were done prior to this summers rides.
Seemed to average in the 350km (220) miles highway riding, before the last bar started flashing. With saying that we did have quite a few times where we were lucky to make 275km before low fuel.
Two bikes riding same speeds,fuel from the same pumps,no real change in riding etc. We both commented on it and put it down to fuel quality, especially up north.
The local dealers will also adjust the CO if pushed as I have talked to another owner who said he had his set to +6 by the dealer to help fix a stalling situation he had a couple of times during the break in period.
Mine did it only once durring the break in, which was prior to setting the CO to +5 and hasn't done it since. Engine seems to have really smoothed out and runs well, although I think more due to the mileage than the CO adjustment.
As suggested by others its not hard to set the CO back to 0 for a while and see if theres a noticable difference.

 

[viewdvb]

Thanks Fred,

The bike was in for the 24k service, they offered to do the CO adjustment, said they do it on every S10 that comes through, so I said go ahead. I figured they had a Yamaha tool to make it quick and easy, why not? But maybe they did do the splicing, I'll have to check and see if there's any sign of that.

I spoke to the service manager about the settings but they weren't recorded, just that the CO was done, and the tech who did the job wasn't there that day. Maybe I should try them again.

Trevor,
As was asked in another thread when you talked about the service tech setting the CO, are you sure that is what was done? I ask bec

This is why I don't go near dealers for servicing unless unavoidable. Luckily I'm a competent and methodical mechanic but I understand the dilemma for those who aren't. So they "did" the CO adjustment - on what basis? Did they make changes and then road test then make more changes etc as I would? You bet they didn't. So they think they have better settings than Yamaha (I'm not saying there aren't better settings) and they applied them to your bike without recording what they did. Very professional - NOT! Silly you wanting to know what they did. Don't you know that owners shouldn't concern themselves with these things - just leave it to your dealer. The last time I left it to a dealer (they needed to dismount the brake calipers to remove the front forks for a warranty oil seal change) the bike came back with the brake mounting bolts untightened and the horn hanging loose. That was the last time ANY dealer goes near my brakes. They thought they were doing me a favour when I complained by offering me a FREE safety check but no apology.

 

[fredz43]

This is why I don't go near dealers for servicing unless unavoidable. Luckily I'm a competent and methodical mechanic but I understand the dilemma for those who aren't. So they "did" the CO adjustment - on what basis? Did they make changes and then road test then make more changes etc as I would? You bet they didn't. So they think they have better settings than Yamaha (I'm not saying there aren't better settings) and they applied them to your bike without recording what they did. Very professional - NOT! Silly you wanting to know what they did. Don't you know that owners shouldn't concern themselves with these things - just leave it to your dealer. The last time I left it to a dealer (they needed to dismount the brake calipers to remove the front forks for a warranty oil seal change) the bike came back with the brake mounting bolts untightened and the horn hanging loose. That was the last time ANY dealer goes near my brakes. They thought they were doing me a favour when I complained by offering me a FREE safety check but no apology.

In another thread a fellow forum member checked the CO settings and they were at 0, so evidently the dealer did not adjust them.

 

[triman11427]

Does it make sense to change the CO settings and leave the throttle bodies alone? I ask out of pure laziness.

 

[MikeBear]

Does it make sense to change the CO settings and leave the throttle bodies alone? I ask out of pure laziness.

That's what I want know too. Not out of laziness. I just don't have any way to sincronize.

 

[SpenceS10]

Thanks to everyone for their info on this topic. I set mine today, went from 0-0 to +5-+5 and could feel the difference from right off idle, not sure on top end but off idle and mid range is most usefull anyway. Also, so far it does not "search" at idol anymore. Just an fyi, since the green wire does not go to anything on the lean angle sensor I used a 12v test probe with a clip on the other end and shoved it in the connector till I had a good ground. That way there is no evidence of tampering with the setup at all. I now know why Yamaha used security bolts to remove the rear seat!

Ride on!

 

[Augie_Dogie]

Sundays 3/3 Effort:

K&N Air Filter
Yoshimura Pipe
CO Mod: Was 0 Now 6
Airscrew Adjustment
Throttle Body Sync

Now after some I15 commuting cycling between 3400' AMSL & 4200' AMSL

GPS MPG
Before 36.5
After 37.1

GPS SPEED (MPH):
OVERALL AVERAGE
Before 53.7
After 51.1

MOVING AVERAGE
Before 57.3
After 54.8

MAXIMUM SPEED (Overtaking)
Before 89.5
After 84.6

& much more manageable in low speed close quarter maneuvering

Has anyone backed off from the initial setting of C01:6/CO2:6??


A_D