How to gain access to the Diagnostic Mode CO adjustment
- Thread starter SpeedStar
- Start date
The biggest benefit when I did it was the sync. And really, with the harmonizer it's a matter of lifting the tank and plugging the two harmonizers vacuum ports into the throttle bodies. The harmonizer makes it pretty effortless...MikeBear said:
raven09
New Member
Does anyone know if there any issues by leaving the green wire from the lean angle sensor permanently grounded?
Ditto - leave it ungrounded. I have mine permanently spliced in with a positap and then have a wire with a quick disconnect terminating it. Easy peasy...
Then when I want to get into co mode again, I just have a piece of wire I plug in with a ring connector in which i ground it out with.
Then when I want to get into co mode again, I just have a piece of wire I plug in with a ring connector in which i ground it out with.
My TB's were over 15" off at factory settings. I was unable to balance them without backing off the "white" air screw(the one the manual says your not to tamper with). Made a big differance on the low end. Not to mention I feel that it is better for the eng to be balanced ... for longjevity reasons. My dealer contacted me about the stalling issue, so I told them what I did and they wanted to see it anyway. I know the mechanic and he simply rechecked my sync and did some creative writing for warenty.triman11427 said:
toadady
lost in the woods
I purchased a new 2004 Roadstarr warrior, and I could do the same thing with it.
Chalk up other one here for the 'very useful threads' info network. All the tips & tricks are right on and were quite helpful with making some adjustments to my Ten-spot. Cudos to the info gurus here.
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Bombman
New Member
Love the result! I was really getting irritated with the stumble at take off from a stopped position in 1st gear. It almost died a couple of times which would have put me in a dangerous situation with the 4 wheeled cages. When I first removed the Green wire from the tilt cutoff switch I forgot to ground it and got a fault code of 14. It apparently cleared itself when I grounded the wire. I played with the CO adjustment and found that after quite a bit of running around and switching starting at +1 and working my way up to +6 and back down I found +2 on both cylinders was adequate and did the trick. +6 left a lot of fuel smell in the exhaust. Between +5 and +3 there was still a fuel smell which decreased with the settings. +2 there is almost no stumble and no fuel smell. The CO (Carbon Dioxide) sensor settings affect O2 sensor settings adjusting how the ECU reads the exhaust and adjusts the mixture?
Now that I have done the dirty and tampered with the imperialistic environmentalist's settings I am thinking to myself what else can I do to add to global warming phenomenon. What else can you adjust from the Diagnostic mode? Can the speedometer be tweaked? Idle RPM? Traction Control sensitivity? ABS? When I select through the numbers on the DIAG mode I hear the fuel pump, and ABS motors doing their thing. What features are accessible from the Diagnostic mode? Can someone throw up a list of the numbers and what each means? Any help would be great! I am sure it is in the Service Manual but mine is on order and I can't wait that long....
Now that I have done the dirty and tampered with the imperialistic environmentalist's settings I am thinking to myself what else can I do to add to global warming phenomenon. What else can you adjust from the Diagnostic mode? Can the speedometer be tweaked? Idle RPM? Traction Control sensitivity? ABS? When I select through the numbers on the DIAG mode I hear the fuel pump, and ABS motors doing their thing. What features are accessible from the Diagnostic mode? Can someone throw up a list of the numbers and what each means? Any help would be great! I am sure it is in the Service Manual but mine is on order and I can't wait that long....
Old Git Ray
UK based. Retired and travelling the world
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
Dunno why I just re-read this thread but something has just occurred to me.SpeedStar said:....
.....
Having just stripped my bike down for a serious clean and service, one thing I had to do was disconnect a permanent earth just like in the photo above. On my Euro spec bike the earth lead is there just like the one above but it goes to an earth screw at the rear of the sub frame.
So the question as to whether to remove the earth is: Don't bother, all Euro bikes already have it and that explains why we can do our DIAG and CO without any mods.
Reveille
Member
So I finally went ahead and ran a ground wire tapped off the pale green wire and bumped up the CO's to +3. I was running the CJM for the past 5k miles with no ill effects. I removed the jumper with the new CO levels and it runs pretty well with just a slight stumble when I whack the throttle during a roll on. Is it OK to put the CJM back in or would it be best to leave it out and just deal with the restriction Yamaha has built in? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Reveille
Member
Update. I rode 513 miles yesterday with the CJM removed and the CO's set at +3 on both cylinders and man it ran perfect. I am pretty happy with it now. I haven't attempted the mixture screw adjustment and throttle body syc yet. I am a bit hesitant but will most likely tackle that this summer. I don't have the instruments to check the levels and it seems the guy over on ADV that had the neat tool for sale has gone AWOL. Anyone out there want to rent their meter for a short time? Anyone near Illinois that has one I can rent/borrow/steal? ::024::
Raggety
New Member
Reveille.Reveille said:
How will temperature and Altitude affect CO settings + wondering how much different they need ti be in south africa .
Pinging Bundu here in our states
Raggety
New Member
Hi BunduBundu said:
Can you remember what your Yami sCO standard settiings was?
Reveille
Member
I am no expert and adjusted mine under the advise I found here on the forum. My OEM setting for both cylinders was 0. I am at 800' elevation, basically sea level. From what I understand, bumping the CO levels up from 0 tricks the ECU into adding more fuel across the fueling table. I gather it's 1% increase for each number you increase. It's not a perfect solution but for my issue it cured the stumble. Since I did the CO adjustment I did grow a set of balls and did the air screw adjustment and throttle body sync. Now she purrs like a kitten. I'm a happy boy. What is your elevation? Your access to the CO is most likely already unlocked. Here in the states they lock us out and we have to go criminal to gain access...LOLRaggety said:
Grok has not made a harmonizer or posted for over a year. For how seldom most people need to do a TBS, see page 19 of this thread and use tubing. Quick, cheap, simple, and hard to goof up:Reveille said:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1973.270
Reveille
Member
Thanks yes I did just that last weekend. Worked nicely.
barts
Member
Has anyone used one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-DWYER-MAGNEHELIC-DIFFERENTIAL-PRESSURE-GAGE-2304-SERIES-2000-/170972329156
Works like a manometer in that it reads a pressure difference, but rather easier to read a .1" H20 difference.
=- Bart
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-DWYER-MAGNEHELIC-DIFFERENTIAL-PRESSURE-GAGE-2304-SERIES-2000-/170972329156
Works like a manometer in that it reads a pressure difference, but rather easier to read a .1" H20 difference.
=- Bart
Long ago I did and found that because it was undamped and the needle was all over the place.barts said:
Unless you use PRECISELY the same restrictor orifice in both hoses, expect to induce some error.
barts
Member
Yup, that makes perfect sense. I'm inclined to just add several cubic inches of volume after restrictions to really filter out the ripples.
I happen to have one of these gages, so it's a cheap experiment.
- Bart