autoteach
New Member
commuted to work, lost the lock mechanism to my top box. ::010::
Could you post some pics of what you have done? What size zirc did you use and did you use a seal on the pivot next to the bike?EricV said:Installed my third K60 rear tire, (a little early due to a ride this weekend), re-greased the drive shaft splines, checked my spokes, (tweaked a couple), drilled and tapped holes in the wheel to install a cush drive retaining plate, drilled and tapped the shift lever and installed a zirc fitting, cleaned and greased the shift lever pivot.
The smallest zirc fitting I could find was 6mm x 1.0 pitch. It's a little longer than the thickness of the shift lever and I had to put a washer under it so it wouldn't bind on the shifter piviot bolt, (which does have a grease groove in it at the center). Not entirely pleased with the washer, and used some loctite as well. I did not use a seal on the pivot next to the bike. There is a washer there that fits very well and for the purposes at hand, will perform that task well enough. The thought is that hitting the zirc with the grease gun will be something I do at oil change intervals as a normal part of my routine. It was essentially dry and had no lube when I pulled it apart, but did have grit and the stain of beginning corrosion on part of the pivot bolt. And I did blue loctite that in places when re-installing it, just as it was from the factory. I had Honda Moly 60 in the grease gun, so used that to lube it.japako said:Could you post some pics of what you have done? What size zirc did you use and did you use a seal on the pivot next to the bike?
I'm really interested in the cush drive retaining plate.
Thanks
What in the hell aer you having done, an overhaul??biting_point said:Tried to pick up my Tenere at bikeshop.. but it's still in pieces..!!
my page for more info!!
He appears to be blacking the whole bike out. Powder-coating frame and trees and such.HoebSTer said:What in the hell aer you having done, and overhaul??
Why are you needing to do that?EricV said:Some more pics of the cush drive retaining plate I made up and installed. This was using a cake pan from the dollar store for the material. It works just fine. I had a couple of very flat 6-32 machine screws, but ended up having to flatten the other two a bit with the grinder to avoid contact on the aluminum fins of the Diff. A button head allen bolt would probably have cleared ok, just didn't think to pick some up at the hardware store.
This is from the previous attempt where I just hammered the edge overlap over the hub with a soft face hammer. It got the edge out of the way for testing and also defined where the edge was so I could trim it back later.
Here is the wheel showing the four holes I drilled and tapped.
<snip>
Thanks for posting the pics Eric. I have been thinking about the this and it gives me some ideas..EricV said:The smallest zirc fitting I could find was 6mm x 1.0 pitch. It's a little longer than the thickness of the shift lever and I had to put a washer under it so it wouldn't bind on the shifter piviot bolt, (which does have a grease groove in it at the center). Not entirely pleased with the washer, and used some loctite as well. I did not use a seal on the pivot next to the bike. There is a washer there that fits very well and for the purposes at hand, will perform that task well enough. The thought is that hitting the zirc with the grease gun will be something I do at oil change intervals as a normal part of my routine. It was essentially dry and had no lube when I pulled it apart, but did have grit and the stain of beginning corrosion on part of the pivot bolt. And I did blue loctite that in places when re-installing it, just as it was from the factory. I had Honda Moly 60 in the grease gun, so used that to lube it.
The cush drive retaining plate is an experiment. Likely to be modified or removed in favor of another method at a later date. I used a piece of pie tin to make a donut like plate that fit over the face of the cush drive plate/wheel hub and drilled (4) holes, every other rib, at the flare along the hub where there was enough meat to do so. I happened to have some very flat head, pan head screws in 6-32 thread and a matching tap, so drilled the holes with a #36, (.1065"), bit prior to tapping. 1/4" long screws, slightly deeper holes since I didn't have a bottom tap, only a taper one.
There is very little clearance between the screw heads and the FD face. I suspect at speed there may be some 'self clearancing' there. I'm not really too worried about that, but want to take it for a short ride and pull the wheel again to see what it looks like and trim the plate a bit more so it doesn't fold over the edges.
I decided to try this method because the FJR uses a similar style wheel and has a similar retaining plate as an OEM feature. p/n 5JW-25327-00-00 cover plate. It's not a stressed part and does very little when on the bike, just keeps the cush drive assy together when you pull the wheel, which is a nice feature.
FWIW, I tried gluing my bumpers in with some silicone RTV, but after 10k miles they were no longer glued in and the dust in the assembly acted like lubricant to allow the assembly to come apart more easily when I was pulling the wheel. Rather than fight with it, I just pulled the Diff and slid it and the wheel off together, which was much easier. Four acorn nuts and it all comes off. I wanted to check and re-grease the splines on the shaft anyway. (they were fine, but I hit them with a little Honda Moly 60 anyway, which is what I had used on the shaft the first time I pulled it apart at 600 miles.
Lame pic with wheel in place.
I may pull the wheel this morning and do some modifications before going for a ride. I'll take more pictures if I do.
HoebSTer said:What in the hell aer you having done, an overhaul??
Felt like not having to hold things together when pulling the wheel. So I did what Yamaha does on the FJR from the factory.tpak said:Why are you needing to do that?
Well, that makes sense now!!!! Hope you get all your screws back in order!!!1reddawg said:
I'm thinking it might have something to do with this :
Only one minor detail Eric. You keep calling the final drive a 'diff.' You can't do that until you add another wheel in back. Your tenure in the automotive industry is coming through here. I'm sure you know the DIFFerence...just having some fun at your expense. (^_-)EricV said:Felt like not having to hold things together when pulling the wheel. So I did what Yamaha does on the FJR from the factory.