It will work out "just fine" until it doesn't. The vast majority of bikes make it between oil changes without requiring makeup oil, but not all, and a dipstick or sight glass is something you do need to monitor as oil consumption can change, sometimes dramatically, on any bike, including generally-bulletproof Yamahas. And no engine tolerates being run seriously low on oil very well.stevent said:There's a sight glass on these? I just drain out the old oil and add 3 1/2 quarts more or less, replace the filter and ride it for another 5k. Seems to work just fine.
And here I thought I was the only one clever enough to think of this... 8)whisperquiet said:I ride 5000 miles, change oil only on a full moon for full gravitational pull, drain both plugs, replace the oil filter, and refill with 3.6 qts of 15w40 Rotella/new oil filter, and ride another 5000 miles.
markjenn said:It will work out "just fine" until it doesn't. The vast majority of bikes make it between oil changes without requiring makeup oil, but not all, and a dipstick or sight glass is something you do need to monitor as oil consumption can change, sometimes dramatically, on any bike, including generally-bulletproof Yamahas. And no engine tolerates being run seriously low on oil very well.
- Mark
As mentioned in another thread, on a couple of occasions with sustained riding at 75+ mph highway speeds, I've had my quantity drop enough to light the low oil light. The oil quantity is less with a cold motor and the oil light came on those times in the morning.stevent said:Barring clouds of blue smoke or puddles under the bike I don't worry much about oil consumption, I guess I just don't worry about what MAY happen.
The filter is horizontal and doesn't have anything underneath it with the guard removed, so you can do a pretty tidy job. It may be possible to get the filter off without removing the guard, but you need it off to use most filter wrenches (strap or cap), so removing the guard is SOP.hoak said:About to do my first change... How much of a mess exactly does removing the oil filter make? Should I for example remove the plastic engine guard (plastic bash plate)?
I found the same copper washers at Auto Zone.taskmaster86 said:Another helpful hint: Napa carries the m14 size copper drain plug crush washer we need for our engines (some may call it a drain plug gasket). The part number is NOE 7041355.
All the other auto parts stores in my area only had this size washer in aluminum, fiber or rubber. This was the first copper crush washer I could find besides ordering the OEM one from a Yamaha dealer. I am pretty sure an aluminum washer would work for our application but I am not sure about the other types.
You are supposed to replace these every time you change the oil but I am sure most of us don't.
Anyways, I bought 2 of these crush washers and they fit and work great on our engines. They are cheap and easily available at any NAPA auto parts nationwide.
I don't believe that's correct.taskmaster86 said:Another helpful hint: Napa carries the m14 size copper drain plug crush washer we need for our engines (some may call it a drain plug gasket). The part number is NOE 7041355.
That's like a lifetime supply!hoak said:
Good purchase for Tech Day and Friend gifts.hoak said:
I thought I read somewhere on here that the S-10 takes a m14 x 1.5 drain bolt. I can't seem to find where it was I read that so I could be wrong ::010::Shovelhead said:I don't believe that's correct.
That NAPA washer is a 14mm (ID). The Tenere oil drain plug washers are 12mm.