Oil Change

coastie

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B1MOPAR said:
I also just did first oil change, measured volume of oi removed and found it had been filled with 4.5 litres from the Dealership.
Did the correct volume that Yamaha recoends and no issue. The oilsystem apears to e to be a semi dry sump, generaly a true dry sumo we always checked with engine running for volume. This my experience with raceing systems not as familiar with the bikes yet. Please let me know if Iam wrong just going off the system diagram.
If you fill it according to the specs you will be just fine. Drain, measure, fill, forget, and ride! Hell for the last 20k+ miles every oil change I drain from the side stand, change the filter, and pour a one gallon jug of Mobil Delvac 15W40, in the block without an an issue. Of course mine does burn a little oil so the very little extra put in, is burned up.
 

motodoc42

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Is anyone running ZDDPLUS? Zinc modifier. Goldwing riders recommend it . Some say the benefit to the engine far out ways the slight chance of cat converter harm. At least on a motorcycle. What say you?
Motodoc42 :question: :question:
 

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motodoc42 said:
Is anyone running ZDDPLUS? Zinc modifier. Goldwing riders recommend it . Some say the benefit to the engine far out ways the slight chance of cat converter harm. At least on a motorcycle. What say you?
Motodoc42 :question: :question:
If you use a high quality Motorcycle Specific Oil such as AMSOIL 10W-40 Motorcycle oil, it already has high levels of ZDDP as the EPA regulations on other oils have not impacted this product.

I would be concerned about low levels of ZDDP in products such as Rotella T series which has API Ratings that, among other things, force lower ZDDP levels to protect DPF systems and it can also affect cat converters as you noted. Interestingly, while there are those that put this oil in their bike simply because it has a JASO rating, it was never intended for motorcycle use. This is a heavy equipment product... see brochure: http://s08.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-triple-brochure.pdf

My 2¢ - we do enough to reduce our environmental footprint by simply riding something with 40 or 50 mpg... no need to force additional emissions regs related to cat converters on motorcycles.

Whatever oil you use - I would stay away from oil additives. They were not considered when the oil was formulated or when the engine was built. Get an oil that has everything you need in it from the beginning...

The only companies you will see recommending oil additives are the additives makers. I've never seen an oil company or machine manufacturer recommend an oil additive to be put in the engine. There is numerous documentation of the false claims of these types of companies including a long list charged by the Federal Trade Commission - most recently ZMax (which you may have seen advertised for a while on gear head type television shows) - FTC nailed them to the wall for deceptive advertising etc...

...Don't waste your money - IMHO
 

Clevermonkey

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LubeSuppliers.com said:
If you use a high quality Motorcycle Specific Oil such as AMSOIL 10W-40 Motorcycle oil, it already has high levels of ZDDP as the EPA regulations on other oils have not impacted this product.

I would be concerned about low levels of ZDDP in products such as Rotella T series which has API Ratings that, among other things, force lower ZDDP levels to protect DPF systems and it can also affect cat converters as you noted. Interestingly, while there are those that put this oil in their bike simply because it has a JASO rating, it was never intended for motorcycle use. This is a heavy equipment product... see brochure: http://s08.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-triple-brochure.pdf

My 2¢ - we do enough to reduce our environmental footprint by simply riding something with 40 or 50 mpg... no need to force additional emissions regs related to cat converters on motorcycles.

Whatever oil you use - I would stay away from oil additives. They were not considered when the oil was formulated or when the engine was built. Get an oil that has everything you need in it from the beginning...

The only companies you will see recommending oil additives are the additives makers. I've never seen an oil company or machine manufacturer recommend an oil additive to be put in the engine. There is numerous documentation of the false claims of these types of companies including a long list charged by the Federal Trade Commission - most recently ZMax (which you may have seen advertised for a while on gear head type television shows) - FTC nailed them to the wall for deceptive advertising etc...

...Don't waste your money - IMHO

Just because it wasn't designed for motorcycle use doesn't mean it's not ok to use on motorcycles. Shell probably spent big $ getting it JASO MA rated... Probably because they saw a market for reasonably priced motorcycle oil. Not saying that synthetics aren't better, but the biggest thing synthetics give you is longer oil life, and if it costs twice as much to get 1.5x the life that's not worth it.. And seeing as I do some motorcycle specific oil on the shelf for 9$ a quart, and shell is 14$ a gallon, that's a pretty big jump in price. Seeing as I do my own oil changes I would rather just do a few more a year.

Now with tires ( which I don't change myself) I go the other way. I would rather spend more to get more tread life and save the time and hassle ( and $) of tire changes.
 

Ramseybella

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Clevermonkey said:
Just because it wasn't designed for motorcycle use doesn't mean it's not ok to use on motorcycles. Shell probably spent big $ getting it JASO MA rated... Probably because they saw a market for reasonably priced motorcycle oil. Not saying that synthetics aren't better, but the biggest thing synthetics give you is longer oil life, and if it costs twice as much to get 1.5x the life that's not worth it.. And seeing as I do some motorcycle specific oil on the shelf for 9$ a quart, and shell is 14$ a gallon, that's a pretty big jump in price. Seeing as I do my own oil changes I would rather just do a few more a year.

Now with tires ( which I don't change myself) I go the other way. I would rather spend more to get more tread life and save the time and hassle ( and $) of tire changes.
$14.00 a gallon, what planet did you buy this from? :eek:
Is it 5-40 Full synthetic?
 

Clevermonkey

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Ramseybella said:
$14.00 a gallon, what planet did you buy this from? :eek:
Is it 5-40 Full synthetic?
I buy mine at planet Bi Mart. Planet Wal Mart also carries it.
It is not full synthetic; my understanding is that the best part of full synthetic motor oils is extended oiul change intervals. As my bike is under warranty it is required to change the oil every 4K miles, so thats not much help.
Also as Rotella is less than half the price of Mobil 1 I would rather just change the oil twice as often. I guess you could skip every other filter change, but they if I am getting dirty might as well get a new filter on. . . YMMV

Note I was incorret. Rotella is not JASO MA certified. Its warrrantied by the MFGR to meet those specs.
 

racer1735

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I changed the oil in my bike today, use the normal mobil 1 MX4T (Racing 4T) and a bosch 3300 filter. Added just over 3.5 quart, started right up and no leaks. Went for a short ride before coming home and shutting her down. Check your oil level at 10 minutes, 15 minutes and again at 20 minutes after I shutter down and absolutely nothing showing in the window. I know I'm supposed to trust that I have the right amount in there but this bike is infuriating in this way!
 

Kevhunts

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racer1735 said:
I changed the oil in my bike today, use the normal mobil 1 MX4T (Racing 4T) and a bosch 3300 filter. Added just over 3.5 quart, started right up and no leaks. Went for a short ride before coming home and shutting her down. Check your oil level at 10 minutes, 15 minutes and again at 20 minutes after I shutter down and absolutely nothing showing in the window. I know I'm supposed to trust that I have the right amount in there but this bike is infuriating in this way!
You state you added just over 3.5 quarts? How much over? The book calls for 3.6qt w/ filter.
That 1/10 of a quart is like 3 shot glasses of oil. Consider that and the fact you are using a non-stock filter, just might be the reason you're not seeing it in the middle. YMMV?
 

HHH

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Clean oil is transparent, hard to distinguish over the glass eye. If you have a buddy around, try to lean the bike to the opposite side and check. If nobody is available, drain a little and look again, I bet it is over filled. ;)
 

eemsreno

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How long did you let it drain for?
When I pull the drain plugs and filter and it sits over night it takes about 3.9 qt. to get it to the top 3/4ths of the window.
I should know , considering I have changed the oil around 30 times in this bike.
 

markjenn

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racer1735 said:
I changed the oil in my bike today, use the normal mobil 1 MX4T (Racing 4T) and a bosch 3300 filter. Added just over 3.5 quart, started right up and no leaks. Went for a short ride before coming home and shutting her down. Check your oil level at 10 minutes, 15 minutes and again at 20 minutes after I shutter down and absolutely nothing showing in the window. I know I'm supposed to trust that I have the right amount in there but this bike is infuriating in this way!
I've had the same experience.... after a short ride after an oil change, and even after waiting awhile, the level remains low. But for some reason, the level will come up the next long ride I do. I have no idea why. Warmer oil does explain a bit of the increase, but the difference between 60-deg oil and 200-deg oil is only about 5%, so it certainly doesn't explain the difference all-together.

If your filter is significantly longer than the stock Yamaha one (many are), you will have to add a little more oil to be at the same level, but I'd be surprised if the difference is more than 100cc or so.

In any event, if you have about 3.6 qt in there (and you're sure you didn't screw up), you have plenty of oil to be "safe" and see if the level comes up. Or top it off a bit, perhaps 0.2 qts or so, if you are worried; that will likely have you showing some oil in the sight glass. Just don't panic and dump a bunch in as you'll probably be dramatically over-filled with a full sight glass and no idea how overfilled you after things settle down.

- Mark
 

racer1735

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I let the bike drain for 20-25 minutes. It was barely a drip when I put it back on the centerstand. The Bosch 3300 is a 2.5" filter, so not too different from the OEM. I poured in 3 qt of oil, then measured the additional .55 quart into a ratio-rite. So I know it has 3.6 quart in her. I will add a touch more, but went thru this on my first change and ended up above the top mark. I just want the level to be between the two!
 

markjenn

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racer1735 said:
I let the bike drain for 20-25 minutes. It was barely a drip when I put it back on the centerstand. The Bosch 3300 is a 2.5" filter, so not too different from the OEM. I poured in 3 qt of oil, then measured the additional .55 quart into a ratio-rite. So I know it has 3.6 quart in her. I will add a touch more, but went thru this on my first change and ended up above the top mark. I just want the level to be between the two!
Wait until your next ride or two and I bet it will be.

- Mark
 

Reveille

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This bike is the wackiest I've ever dealt with regarding oil site glass levels. Yamaha needs to just remove the site glass because it's useless IMO. I let mine drain on the side stand for a good 30 minutes, change the filter and add 3.6 quarts and then ride for 3000 miles and repeat. I gave up on the silly site glass long ago. Sometimes it shows over the glass and sometimes it shows zero oil in the glass. ::021::
 

Bushyar15

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Although I've only changed my oil once so far. I've had zero issues with the amount of oil and what I see in the sight-glass.

I drained the oil, pulled the filter. Tipped the bike on the sidestand towards the drains. Held it for 15 seconds, then let the whole thing sit for maybe 5 minutes..

Spun on the new filter, put drain bolts back in. Filled it according to the manual. Rode it for about 5 miles. Let it sit for about 1/2 hour came out and looked at the sight-glass with the bike level. It was low below the sight-glass. Added small amount of oil incrementally letting it sit a couple minutes in between, until I couls see oil just at the bottom of the glass.

Rode it another 5 miles came back. Let it sit and it was still at the same level before I left just at the bottom of the glass. Again added oil incrementally till It was half way up the glass.

Rode it 5 miles and checked.. same place. 1k miles later and it still in the middle of the glass...
 

HeliMark

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markjenn said:
Wait until your next ride or two and I bet it will be.

- Mark
Agreed here. The one thing that drives me nuts on this bike. Fill it up, ride for about 15 miles, come back and check the oil level. Looks great. Then the next day, go for a 200 mile ride and shows overfilled ::010::. Once I get it back to showing the correct level, it stays at the correct level until the next oil change, no matter if it is a 1 mile ride or 500 mile ride. Then next oil change repeat.........

Mark
 

coastie

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That's why I completely stopped worrying about this. About 20k miles ago I just started drain the oil on the sidestand. 10 minutes later I put the plug back in and dump a gallon jug of Rotella in, put the cap on and ride. I'll take my chances with the extra 1/2 cup'ish of oil in the case.
 

Clevermonkey

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My experience with pile change was 20 mile ride, 20 minute drain, filled 1/2 quart less than reccomend and the wight glass was full.mran ten minutes, site glass low. Added 1/2 quart and it was right on the money. Easy as pie!
 

sail2xxs

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I've found that 3.5L, in addition to pre-filling the filter before I spin it on, seems to give consistent oil level right in the middle of the sight glass when the bike is on the centerstand.

Chris
 
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