Oil Change

[stevent]

There's a sight glass on these? I just drain out the old oil and add 3 1/2 quarts more or less, replace the filter and ride it for another 5k. Seems to work just fine.

 

[markjenn]

There's a sight glass on these? I just drain out the old oil and add 3 1/2 quarts more or less, replace the filter and ride it for another 5k. Seems to work just fine.

It will work out "just fine" until it doesn't. The vast majority of bikes make it between oil changes without requiring makeup oil, but not all, and a dipstick or sight glass is something you do need to monitor as oil consumption can change, sometimes dramatically, on any bike, including generally-bulletproof Yamahas. And no engine tolerates being run seriously low on oil very well.

- Mark

 

[twinrider]

I ride 5000 miles, change oil only on a full moon for full gravitational pull, drain both plugs, replace the oil filter, and refill with 3.6 qts of 15w40 Rotella/new oil filter, and ride another 5000 miles.

And here I thought I was the only one clever enough to think of this... 8)

 

[stevent]

It will work out "just fine" until it doesn't. The vast majority of bikes make it between oil changes without requiring makeup oil, but not all, and a dipstick or sight glass is something you do need to monitor as oil consumption can change, sometimes dramatically, on any bike, including generally-bulletproof Yamahas. And no engine tolerates being run seriously low on oil very well.

- Mark

Barring clouds of blue smoke or puddles under the bike I don't worry much about oil consumption, I guess I just don't worry about what MAY happen.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Barring clouds of blue smoke or puddles under the bike I don't worry much about oil consumption, I guess I just don't worry about what MAY happen.

As mentioned in another thread, on a couple of occasions with sustained riding at 75+ mph highway speeds, I've had my quantity drop enough to light the low oil light. The oil quantity is less with a cold motor and the oil light came on those times in the morning.

 

[hoak]

About to do my first change... How much of a mess exactly does removing the oil filter make? Should I for example remove the plastic engine guard (plastic bash plate)?

 

[markjenn]

About to do my first change... How much of a mess exactly does removing the oil filter make? Should I for example remove the plastic engine guard (plastic bash plate)?

The filter is horizontal and doesn't have anything underneath it with the guard removed, so you can do a pretty tidy job. It may be possible to get the filter off without removing the guard, but you need it off to use most filter wrenches (strap or cap), so removing the guard is SOP.

- Mark

 

[hoak]

Thanks, markjenn, it looks like there's plenty room to fit a cap fitting on my filter without taking the plastic engine guard off, but it also looks like any oil that would run down would run all over the inside of the guard and make mess...

I'm fairly certain I could get the filter off with the guard on if I wanted to be fast and dirty about it, but, I'm wondering how much oil comes splashing out as the filter is screwed off?

 

[tomatocity]

The plastic guard is two nuts and two bolts, simple, easy peasy... even I can do it.

- Do yourself a favor and put a large piece of cardboard and/or a metal drip tray under the Tenere.
- The oil drain pan should be a larger diameter since the two drain bolts and the oil filter cover some distance.
- Take your time. It should take about an hour.
- You need a 10mm socket, 4 or 5mm hex (can't remember which), 12mm socket, ratchet, oil, oil filter, rags and or paper towels, and a good attitude. Smile, be happy.
- Fill the engine with 3.6 quarts of oil and don't worry about it.
- ::001::

 

[Juan]

Do remove the plastic guard before removing the filter, unless you want to have a mess. After four oil changes I can now drain all the oil from the two drain bolts and the filter without a single drop of oil on the floor .

I measure the drained oil and replace it with an exact quantity of new oil. Don't get tempted to put in more if the sight glass shows empty. During my last oil change (two weeks ago) I added a little extra because the old oil showed at slightly more than half the sight glass level and also because I was about to go on a long trip (1000km, or 600+ miles). After about an hour of riding I checked the oil level and the sight glass was completely full (which is not great as some oil might have gone into the air filter). I'm saying all this to emphasize that the sight glass can easily fool you.

 

[hoak]

Groovy! Thanks fellas! I was anticipating this being a little more work then oil changes on other bikes I've owned -- thanks for making all the helpful detail!

 

[taskmaster86]

Another helpful hint: Napa carries the m14 size copper drain plug crush washer we need for our engines (some may call it a drain plug gasket). The part number is NOE 7041355.

All the other auto parts stores in my area only had this size washer in aluminum, fiber or rubber. This was the first copper crush washer I could find besides ordering the OEM one from a Yamaha dealer. I am pretty sure an aluminum washer would work for our application but I am not sure about the other types.

You are supposed to replace these every time you change the oil but I am sure most of us don't.

Anyways, I bought 2 of these crush washers and they fit and work great on our engines. They are cheap and easily available at any NAPA auto parts nationwide.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Another helpful hint: Napa carries the m14 size copper drain plug crush washer we need for our engines (some may call it a drain plug gasket). The part number is NOE 7041355.

All the other auto parts stores in my area only had this size washer in aluminum, fiber or rubber. This was the first copper crush washer I could find besides ordering the OEM one from a Yamaha dealer. I am pretty sure an aluminum washer would work for our application but I am not sure about the other types.

You are supposed to replace these every time you change the oil but I am sure most of us don't.

Anyways, I bought 2 of these crush washers and they fit and work great on our engines. They are cheap and easily available at any NAPA auto parts nationwide.

I found the same copper washers at Auto Zone.

 

[Shovelhead]

Another helpful hint: Napa carries the m14 size copper drain plug crush washer we need for our engines (some may call it a drain plug gasket). The part number is NOE 7041355.

I don't believe that's correct.
That NAPA washer is a 14mm (ID). The Tenere oil drain plug washers are 12mm.

 

[tomatocity]

I have not replaced the original oil drain bolt washers in 52,500 miles. No leaks. I do have them in my spare parts package.

 

[hoak]

I bought some of these price seemed reasonable...

::022::

 

[limey]

Thanks for the link hoak.

 

[regulator]

I bought some of these price seemed reasonable...

::022::

That's like a lifetime supply!

Good find.

 

[tomatocity]

I bought some of these price seemed reasonable...

::022::

Good purchase for Tech Day and Friend gifts.

 

[taskmaster86]

I don't believe that's correct.
That NAPA washer is a 14mm (ID). The Tenere oil drain plug washers are 12mm.

I thought I read somewhere on here that the S-10 takes a m14 x 1.5 drain bolt. I can't seem to find where it was I read that so I could be wrong ::010::

If it is an M12 size bolt, which size is it exactly? M12 x 1.75?

I would really like to get magnetic drain plugs next time I do an oil change.