Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

[limey]

Yep, Kerosene is probably what the guys are skipping. Risky business.

You're the man, Jaxon!

So you drain oil, change CCT and top it up with Kerosine , run engine for a few mins drain kerosine then top up with oil. Can I use same filter or will the Kerosine clean that also?

 

[eemsreno]

I've seen atv's come in with the carbs running over for so long that gas has replaced any oil that was in the engine, Nice and clean in there after that, You could substitute gas for that Kerosene. I just don't see how the whole thing just doesn't explode though.

 

[Mark R.]

I got the Graves unit yesterday and installed it right away. Used a new CCT gasket, but the clutch cover gasket I reused. I rotated the engine per the valve adjust procedure, putting the "K" mark even with a point on the case, per the manual. Then I thought about how to keep the cam chain slider up against the cam chain so no slippage could occur.

I ended up putting a 17mm socket on the back side of the cam chain slider, up under where the tensioner goes, and as I backed out the CCT, the slider moved back just a hair, and stopped, prevented from moving further back by the socket. 10 minutes later, I had the Graves unit installed, and I tightened it up and put everything back together.

It was very close to final adjustment, but I started the bike up and slowly backed out the tensioner until the engine got a wee bit noisy. Then I tightened it up a bit until the noise stopped, and locked it down. Done!

 

[jaeger22]

Thanks Mark! Sounds like a great way to go. Simple and safe. ::008:: I will use your procedure when i get around to changing to the manual CCT.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Mark,
How many turns did it take to adjust with the fine treads? It's been icy, snowing, raining here and I've not had a chance to install mine. Did you take any pictures?

 

[bigbob]

I think American kerosene is a different thing wayyyy east of here.

 

[Mark R.]

Mark,
How many turns did it take to adjust with the fine treads? It's been icy, snowing, raining here and I've not had a chance to install mine. Did you take any pictures?

Jaxon: No, I did not take pictures of this procedure, as it was so simple. Graves' instructions say to tighten the tensioner until you get 3 degrees of crank movement. That was not really something I could measure. But when tightening it, there was a definite point where you could feel the resistance to turning increasing within about a half turn, so I backed it off and left it just at that increase point.

Once it buttoned it up, I started the engine, and backed out the tensioner until I could hear a little bit of noise - like the chain was barely fluttering. Then I tightened it until the fluttering went away and tightened the locknut down. The engine is very quiet at that setting. I don't think I moved it more than about a turn out from that increase point.

Hope that helps.

Mark R.

 

[Ramseybella]

I will never go back to Auto CCT's again, Stadium can Kiss My A$$ for not refunding me on the defective 14 CCT as well as blowing me off. ::009::
Tired of being polite to owners who tell you one thing and then hang you out to dry.

 

[Tremor38]

Re: Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

So you drain oil, change CCT and top it up with Kerosine , run engine for a few mins drain kerosine then top up with oil. Can I use same filter or will the Kerosine clean that also?

Gawd no! Drain the kerosene as much as you can, then burn the residual with a blow torch in the drain hole. Keep the filler cap removed while you do this.

 

[Mark R.]

So you drain oil, change CCT and top it up with Kerosine , run engine for a few mins drain kerosine then top up with oil. Can I use same filter or will the Kerosine clean that also?

Er.....don't put kerosene in your engine for any reason or for any length of time. Especially don't burn off the excess......................

 

[Checkswrecks]

Re: Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

So you drain oil, change CCT and top it up with Kerosine , run engine for a few mins drain kerosine then top up with oil. Can I use same filter or will the Kerosine clean that also?

Gawd no! Drain the kerosene as much as you can, then burn the residual with a blow torch in the drain hole. Keep the filler cap removed while you do this.

Unfortunately, somebody will read this and try it, thinking you guys were more experienced and serious.

 

[Chuck B]

Re: Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

Unfortunately, somebody will read this and try it, thinking you guys were more experienced and serious.

I just did this late last night... ::015::

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

CCT ..... I dont understand ? WHY do so many change this ???
Buy RIGHT and GOOD engineoil for motorcycles and i think there is no problem .....

I run OKQ8 SBK racing 10w -50. Api : SM and MA2 ,
in final gear Castrol Syntrax longlife 75-90 GL5 , premium all the way ...
And little more orten changes ( about 3000 Miles / 5000 km )

And the sama about 2014 and newer clutch basket ( duell mass , rubber betwen ) , look att cars like BMW and VOLVO ....
When they run A couple of years the clutch is vibrating and other shit because the rubber has" released from the steel " ::007:: ::007::

Yes , GOOD when new , BUT crap for second or Third buyer ...... I planning to have My bike many years , the best way is GOOD service history , and I Will absolutly NOT change CCT or Clutch basket ( if not yamaha dealer tells me so / they do it under YES )

Sometimes i think bikers change parts in GOOD thinking , BUT instead the bike is getting more " wrongs " .....

What i say : service motorcycle often , and with Prenium oil of right sort for your bike, i what I THINK is that you Will have A good bike many years ......

 

[Bushyar15]

This too was interesting to me. Back when I started road racing in the 80s we changed out our ACCTs with manual ones. We never checked timing marks or anything like that. Simply removed the ACCT and installed the manual. Subsequent valve checks didn't show any skipping or jumping had occurred.

Admittedly I've not taken off side covers of the like to look at timing on the S10 so I don't know what it looks like. But the chain being loose enough to skip teeth performing this maintenance would imply, to me, the CC is way too loose or big to begin with.

I don't see how releasing the tension by removing the stock ACCT then replacing it with an MCCT would cause it to skip or jump teeth during the process.

And back then when we adjusted the tension we tighten it till there was felt resistance then back it out like a quarter turn.. Never had an issue, but yeah I know that was back when Dinosaurs ruled the Earth...

There has been about 2 reports of cam time jumping while replacing the tensioner out of all that have done it, and those 2 to me seemed like it was a fabricated tale. Guys that have like 10 postings here, and acted like, my timing jumped a few teeth and I took the hour to fix, and you should not of attempted this feat without major disassembly.. Seems to me if I took the tensioner off and the timing jumped I'd be more or less in a panic, but not these guys, they had timing jump, removed 6hrs worth of stuff, reset everything and all was well. Bullsheet. I believe they were lies. Remove the tensioner, replace the tensioner. Job done.

 

[Ramseybella]

CCT ..... I dont understand ? WHY do so many change this ???
Buy RIGHT and GOOD engineoil for motorcycles and i think there is no problem .....

I run OKQ8 SBK racing 10w -50. Api : SM and MA2 ,
in final gear Castrol Syntrax longlife 75-90 GL5 , premium all the way ...
And little more orten changes ( about 3000 Miles / 5000 km )

And the sama about 2014 and newer clutch basket ( duell mass , rubber betwen ) , look att cars like BMW and VOLVO ....
When they run A couple of years the clutch is vibrating and other shit because the rubber has" released from the steel " ::007:: ::007::

Yes , GOOD when new , BUT crap for second or Third buyer ...... I planning to have My bike many years , the best way is GOOD service history , and I Will absolutly NOT change CCT or Clutch basket ( if not yamaha dealer tells me so / they do it under YES )

Sometimes i think bikers change parts in GOOD thinking , BUT instead the bike is getting more " wrongs " .....

What i say : service motorcycle often , and with Prenium oil of right sort for your bike, i what I THINK is that you Will have A good bike many years ......

Well you let us know how that all works out for you?
If the CCT and clutch basket was upgraded by Yamaha in 2014 I am guessing they had an idea they had to have been Shit, took them long enough.
I prefer running recycled peanut oil from the local Chines restaurant in my bike never change the filter!!
You need to do a little research on this forum, most of us are a bit to anal about how we care for our bikes. ::024::
But one thing is for certain we are passionate about our bikes and take the best care we can to keep them alive.
It's not everyday one plants 13k on a motorcycle and plans on not taking care of it.
I prefer the manual CCT and my wrist loves the new Clutch basket after a long ride all day..

Honestly I am glad someone had Balls to install the 14 Clutch basket in a pre 14, I was indeed thinking of parting ways with the Tenere it had so much vibration..

 

[greg the pole]

CCT ..... I dont understand ? WHY do so many change this ???
Buy RIGHT and GOOD engineoil for motorcycles and i think there is no problem .....

I run OKQ8 SBK racing 10w -50. Api : SM and MA2 ,
in final gear Castrol Syntrax longlife 75-90 GL5 , premium all the way ...
And little more orten changes ( about 3000 Miles / 5000 km )

And the sama about 2014 and newer clutch basket ( duell mass , rubber betwen ) , look att cars like BMW and VOLVO ....
When they run A couple of years the clutch is vibrating and other shit because the rubber has" released from the steel " ::007:: ::007::

Yes , GOOD when new , BUT crap for second or Third buyer ...... I planning to have My bike many years , the best way is GOOD service history , and I Will absolutly NOT change CCT or Clutch basket ( if not yamaha dealer tells me so / they do it under YES )

Sometimes i think bikers change parts in GOOD thinking , BUT instead the bike is getting more " wrongs " .....

What i say : service motorcycle often , and with Prenium oil of right sort for your bike, i what I THINK is that you Will have A good bike many years ......

I actually don't use oil in mine. Saliva mostly.

Come on man...give your head a shake. There's documented failures, and most cct become growly at less than 45 thou km. The design sucks. Just resetting it is a major pita.
Roll the dice.

 

[Mark R.]

This too was interesting to me. Back when I started road racing in the 80s we changed out our ACCTs with manual ones. We never checked timing marks or anything like that. Simply removed the ACCT and installed the manual. Subsequent valve checks didn't show any skipping or jumping had occurred.

Admittedly I've not taken off side covers of the like to look at timing on the S10 so I don't know what it looks like. But the chain being loose enough to skip teeth performing this maintenance would imply, to me, the CC is way too loose or big to begin with.

I don't see how releasing the tension by removing the stock ACCT then replacing it with an MCCT would cause it to skip or jump teeth during the process.

And back then when we adjusted the tension we tighten it till there was felt resistance then back it out like a quarter turn.. Never had an issue, but yeah I know that was back when Dinosaurs ruled the Earth...

The reason you have to be very mindful of crank position and cam chain tension on this bike when changing the CCT is because it has a 270 degree crank. There is always a cam lobe pushing down on a valve, so if you release the cam chain tension, there is potential for the chain to jump. Nothing more complicated than that. So moving the crank to the first TDC position, then just keeping tension on the cam chain slipper is all that is needed to change out the CCT.

 

[~TABASCO~]

CCT ..... I dont understand ? WHY do so many change this ???
Buy RIGHT and GOOD engineoil for motorcycles and i think there is no problem .....

I run OKQ8 SBK racing 10w -50. Api : SM and MA2 ,
in final gear Castrol Syntrax longlife 75-90 GL5 , premium all the way ...
And little more orten changes ( about 3000 Miles / 5000 km )

And the sama about 2014 and newer clutch basket ( duell mass , rubber betwen ) , look att cars like BMW and VOLVO ....
When they run A couple of years the clutch is vibrating and other shit because the rubber has" released from the steel " ::007:: ::007::

Yes , GOOD when new , BUT crap for second or Third buyer ...... I planning to have My bike many years , the best way is GOOD service history , and I Will absolutly NOT change CCT or Clutch basket ( if not yamaha dealer tells me so / they do it under YES )

Sometimes i think bikers change parts in GOOD thinking , BUT instead the bike is getting more " wrongs " .....

What i say : service motorcycle often , and with Prenium oil of right sort for your bike, i what I THINK is that you Will have A good bike many years ......

If you have a few minutes you might want to go check out some of the Yamaha R1 forum sites, and search for CCT failure. I don't think Yamaha's CCT issue are oil related, they have tended to have issues with the R1 / R6 for several years now. I thought I would just take care of my 2012 CCT issue with the "new" 2014 CCT. I bought one, installed it and very quickly was just as bad as my 2012 if not even worst. I don't want to be half way across the country having a good time and the motor dies due to a failed CCT... It might not ever happen, but im not taking the chance. I've now bought a Graves unit and will be installing it ASAP. After recently installing a MCCT on another customer Super Tenere I now personally know the sound difference and ordered a MCCT immediately..

 

[Bushyar15]

THANK YOU! Totally clear to me and definitely going to follow the lead of others!

The reason you have to be very mindful of crank position and cam chain tension on this bike when changing the CCT is because it has a 270 degree crank. There is always a cam lobe pushing down on a valve, so if you release the cam chain tension, there is potential for the chain to jump. Nothing more complicated than that. So moving the crank to the first TDC position, then just keeping tension on the cam chain slipper is all that is needed to change out the CCT.

 

[snakebitten]

Clutch basket is a personal preference. I agree, you don't have to address it as a hazard.

The cct?
I still think the math is in your favor. Most Teneres probably have nothing to fear.
But, the high mileage Teneres.....the ones that get used, the math appears to shift away from fail proof. And the price for a failure is catastrophic. So why not address this? Cct or mcct, both are cheap insurance. I don't see the controversy.