Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

scott123007

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Since I am bored, sitting at home nursing a hip replacement, I'll consolidate all the information from the pervious posts to make your MCCT replacement go smoothly.
First, there is no guarantee that your cam chain will not jump teeth on the cams when you release the old tensioner. Some, like myself, have done it without a problem, and some have not. It all depends on the position of the cams, when the old tensioner is removed, but there has been no mention by previous posters of what that position actually is, so it is best to get a tie wrap and "clamp" the chain together where you can get to it with the clutch cover off, so that it is always under tension even with the tensioner removed.

Second, I'll go out on a limb and say a clutch cover gasket is not necessary. Sure, it doesn't hurt to get a new one, but I've had 4 different clutch covers off and 2 more than once, and have yet to need to replace one. The cover comes off cleanly, either with or without the gasket attached to it (you'd think I could remember which side it adheres to with all that I have removed, but for the life of me, I can't, LOL) and not one has ever leaked oil after re-assembly. I still have the first gasket I bought but never used sitting around somewhere. Regardless, that cover only takes 5 minutes to remove if it ever did start leaking.

Third, A good rule of thumb for chain tension is how I did it back in the day, when cam chain tensioners were "semi-manual". In the good old days (well, the '70's anyway) tensioners had a spring in them that pushed a plunger rod against the cam chain guide. That rod was locked in place by a bolt and jamb nut that screwed through the tensioner at a right angle to it. When the chain started to get loose and the engine became noisier, you would loosen the jamb nut and back off the bolt that held the plunger in place. The spring tension would then force the plunger against the guide to tighten the chain back up. Now, here's the important part. In order to have the chain slack in the best position for the plunger to do its best job, you would put a wrench on the nut on the end of the crankshaft and put turning pressure, to the point that it would just start to turn the crankshaft as you would tighten the jam bolt to the plunger, effectively, giving you the most slack in the chain, where the plunger was.

After I installed the new MCCT and initially snugged up the bolt/plunger before removing the tie wrap holding the cam chain tight, I would duplicate the procedure above, and, with turning pressure on the crankshaft, I would HAND TIGHTEN the bolt/plunger on your new MCCT until it came to a stop, and then tighten the jamb nut.

Hope this helps you, because in this case, other than bolt torque, the manual would be useless.
 

Mark R.

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I'll add to Scott's post, that if you don't have a clutch gasket on hand, based on Murphy's law, you will need one. If you have one, you will not need it.

As far as keeping tension on the cam chain guide, if you remove the clutch cover, you can put a socket or something hard along the back side of the cam chain guide (a small block of wood would also do) so that as you remove the CCT, the cam chain guide moves back just a hair, then stops. The cam chain will then not lose tension. You install the new MCCT, and snug up the tensioner to push the cam chain guide tight again. Button everything up again, and fire up the bike. Loosen the MCCT in very small increments until you get a little noise, then tighten it up until the noise stops. Tighten the lock nut. Done. No service manual required.

Mark R.
Albuquerque, NM
 

Dogdaze

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Checkswrecks said:
Ouch -


Heal up fast, Superman!
::026:: I had complete hip replacement done on both sides last December, back on the bike at the end of March this year, only know I had them done is the small scars. Sorry, back to MCCT thread. ::001::
 

scott123007

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Thanks Bob and Dogdaze!

I'm 32 days into this and "feel" 95% back to normal. Enough so, that I took the bike for a short spin last weekend, just to say I did. That's it though. I know if I push my luck, and even something minor were to happen, I'd come apart like a cheap suit. So, caging it is, for another month anyway LOL

Dogdaze,
Glad to hear yours turned out so well. I am hoping the same for mine, but the Doctor and Therapists sure make it sound like it dislocates pretty easy (no bending past 90 degrees, no crossing legs, pivoting on that leg, etc). Cripes, I hope that's just a scare tactic so I'll behave for a few months.
 

GazGaz

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I have read alot about what everyone had done in regards to changing the CCT on the 2012 + models. Now can anyone tell me if the APE cct will fit the 2010 model? Can't find any info. Thanks
 

~TABASCO~

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Yes it will... I would suggest you go with the Graves, for the oiling aspect and the "fine" tuning...
 

Checkswrecks

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GazGaz said:
I have read alot about what everyone had done in regards to changing the CCT on the 2012 + models. Now can anyone tell me if the APE cct will fit the 2010 model? Can't find any info. Thanks

Your 2010 will exchange almost any part with the rest of the Gen1 bikes so 2010-2013, especially in the engine. You'd need to check the Yam parts Illustrated Parts Catalogs to know when you are looking at one of the few changes (mostly graphics and such), as few others here have the 2010.
 

RED CAT

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I will definitely be switching to a Manual CCT on my next Valve Adjust unless I buy something different than an S10. The 2014 CCT is worse than the 2012 CCT. Stiffer I guess. Took my Dealer's best mechanic over 1/2 hour to compress mine. Very hard to release too. Piece of shite.
 

Ramseybella

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My new CCT was already a problem right out of the box, the on line Yamaha dealer gave me such a hard time on returning it that it's still in the box "Wasted money".
Went with the manual CCT and never looked back.
 

Rethy

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I changed out to the manual on my 2012 during a valve adjustment. Installed the Graves and the tension instructions did not make any sense to me. Adjust until you feel a 3 degree movement in crank? I think I have mine too tight. It is noisy and I am reluctant to back it out while idling. Is there an easier way to confirm proper adjustment with the clutch cover off? There has to be an easier way to know when the adjustment is right. Maybe I just never paid attention to how noisy the cam drivetrain was before. When you guys back it out until you hear noise. Is that a rattle in the chain? And if so back it out to rattle then tight 1/4 turn? How much damage can I do with it too tight?
 

snakebitten

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I'm not one of the resident mechanical experts, but I've been riding for half a century and grew up in an era where manual tensioners were the norm.
Still have them on a few bikes and prefer them in my simple minded way.

Ok, the first issue CAN be that the Super Tenere engine sounds like "a box of rocks" when everything is perfect!
So if you are sensitive to the sounds it is emitting, then add in a dose of worry, well......it'll drive ya nuts and steal the fun of riding it.

I'll say this though, if you ever suffered the Super Tenere momentary tensioner problem, you'd KNOW what a loose tensioner sounds like!
Pretty dang alarming 2 seconds, the first time I heard it.

So I'm not so sure you have to worry about adjusting a small amount while it's running. You'll definitely here the "clatter" sound begin to reveal itself in the loosening direction.

Too tight? How does that sound? I describe that as actually hearing the chain "whir" continuously. Too tight has the chain pressed up against the plastic guides so hard that it whirs. Sounds similar to manually spinning a chainsaw while it's not running. Real dry sound to my ears.

"Just right" is that margin you get between the two sounds. And since the S10 is making all those other noises, the "just right" on the cam chain can technically be described as quiet. Lol
 

Stoned

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I installed the Graves unit when I did my valve adjustment in November. I was more than a little nervous about it, but I had the clutch cover off and the valve cover off so I could see what was happening as I tightened everything up. I adjusted until I saw a little movement at the crank, but was not comfortable with it. Seemed tight too me. After I had everything back together and the bike started and warmed up, I loosened the adjustment one full turn and noticed no difference in the sound it made. I tried another half turn out and still no difference. Locked it down and have ridden about 100 miles since. (it is winter here so limited time on road) So far, I believe it too be much quieter than the stock unit and I am very satisfied with how my bike is running. Initial start up is much quieter than before and the motor revs with out issue and settles into a smooth and quiet idle. I have not been willing to tighten it down until I hear a "whirling" sound, nor loosen it until I hear a "clacking" sound. I'll take my chances with my initial settings for now.

I do recommend this upgrade but wish there was a little more guidance available. (Maybe there is enough and I just lack the confidence in them)
 
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