What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[SuperTenereKid]

I think that a tire repair kit with the electical pump is a MUST, I had 2 tire failure in the road and help me to sort it out.

I believe it is too. In fact while riding in South America even had three means for air ... manual pump, CO2 and electric.
Have had many flat tires on the road ... plug / inflate and keep riding.
When leaving home also the other item in my luggage is rain gear ...

 

[Squibb]

Chorley Yamaha told me it takes a mechanic out of action for a whole week to do One gearbox recall. Pretty sure you don’t strip one down to that extent in just 5 hours, maybe the engine work is 5, once its out of the frame.?

Me thinks Chorley have loaded up the BS quotient - can you seriously imagine Yamaha paying c.35 hours labour on every FJR they have sold Worldwide after a 5 year production run.

All the dealers will have suffered the initial steep learning curve, just as they did with the FJR brakelight switch recall, a job that was far more straightforward on the Super10.

 

[Bmwdumptruck]

Me thinks Chorley have loaded up the BS quotient - can you seriously imagine Yamaha paying c.35 hours labour on every FJR they have sold Worldwide after a 5 year production run.

All the dealers will have suffered the initial steep learning curve, just as they did with the FJR brakelight switch recall, a job that was far more straightforward on the Super10.

I guess we’re both suffering from BS, cos I just can’t believe 5 hours. Even an experienced mechanic would need way more than that to strip a fully loaded bike like an FJR to then remove the engine and gearbox, then strip the whole engine to pretty much its component form, then rebuild with the new parts, refit in the frame and reassemble the rest of the bike. 5 days might be a bit exaggerated, but I doubt there’s many mechanics that could do it in less than 3 days, at least that’d be my guestimate!! I certainly wouldn’t want mine done in much less than that, but luckily mines an older 5 speed. And knowing every 6 speed has been rebuilt and would ultimately be very reliant on how well its mechanic has done the job, doubt I’ll ever own one.
And yes I could believe Yamaha are losing a shitload over this.

 

[sureshshanmugam]

Went on a ride.
Also in the past few days - installed AltRider skid plate, Crashbar rubber(that plastic thingy on the crashbar), Custom License plate frame, Tank protector(gel thingy),
AltRider upper Crashbar on the way

 

[Jlq1969]

Went on a ride.
Also in the past few days - installed AltRider skid plate, Crashbar rubber(that plastic thingy on the crashbar), Custom License plate frame, Tank protector(gel thingy),
AltRider upper Crashbar on the wayView attachment 87611

I think the rubber you placed on the crashbar would have more effect on a fall, if you put that rubber on the lower bar. In a fall the motorcycle will be supported between the footpeg and the hand guard, and between these two points, the point closest to the floor is the bottom bar of the crashbar. The addition of the crashbar will probably prevent the handguard from touching the floor, but although in a vertical position the upper bar is more protruding, in an inclined position, the lower bar touches the floor first,
.and the rubbers that you put vertically, would have almost no effect (or doubtful effect) on a fall

 

[robp]

I think the rubber you placed on the crashbar would have more effect on a fall, if you put that rubber on the lower bar.

Agreed, when my bike took a nap the impact area on the crashbar was on the lower bend where Jlq's picture shows.

 

[Reno]

Changed out the cigarette lighter out to a duel USB And volt meter, and added some highway pegs

 

[sureshshanmugam]

Thank for pointing @Jlq1969 . I will move it to the lower bar.
Appreciate your care!

 

[KGaron]

Dug out an old Micron muffler from a crashed bike I bought 18 years ago.

Spent about a half hour of quality time with it and a buffer.
Purchase a link pipe from the very nice people at Delkevic
Wrapped link pipe in header wrap and installed my “new” pipe on the bike...
I had Anthony reflash my ecu and I have to say....Shame on Yamaha for getting the fueling as bad as it is stock. Anthony’s reflash made MY bike so much more pleasant to ride that it’s not even comparable to the stock Yamaha setup.
I asked him to remove as much engine braking as possible and to fix the abysmal on/off issue. The result is a bike that can be piloted properly on twisty roads without the frustration of dealing with terrible fueling.

Now that I have a bike I can love,I’m on to suspension...

 

[Sierra1]

. . . . I asked him to remove as much engine braking as possible . . . .

noooooooooo . . . .

 

[pilleway]

Today I starded to do front fork service due o a RH fork leak.
Found that the dust seal is broken as seen in the picture;

I think that the oil leak seen was not due to this seal.
The oil seal look ok did not have any cracks like dust seal.
The one called Metal Slide 1 there was a kind of pealoff seen in the internal coating, as you can see in the picture


looks like corrosion! Could the coating cause the oil leak?
the front fork piston looks clean in the outside coating.
My initial thought was the oil seal damage to be the one causing the leak, but the internal lip is clean and no cracks.

The dust seal, oil seal the metal slide 1 and the fork piston will be replaced.

So far did not see the source for the leak,
Any comment or recomendation will be appreciated.
Have a nice weekend.

 

[KGaron]

Your dust seal looks dry rotted. The bushing looks worn and I would imagine you may have some scratches in the fork tube from the bushing. That will cause oil to leak even if you don’t see damage to the seal with naked eye. Depending on the severity of the leak, you may be able to buff polish the fork tube. Replace both sets of bushings and fork seals with the dust seals and you should be ok. I’ve changed hundreds of seals/bushings in my past life and seldom have I had to replace the fork tube...depending on the damage of course.

 

[pilleway]

Your dust seal looks dry rotted. The bushing looks worn and I would imagine you may have some scratches in the fork tube from the bushing. That will cause oil to leak even if you don’t see damage to the seal with naked eye. Depending on the severity of the leak, you may be able to buff polish the fork tube. Replace both sets of bushings and fork seals with the dust seals and you should be ok. I’ve changed hundreds of seals/bushings in my past life and seldom have I had to replace the fork tube...depending on the damage of course.

Thanks for the feedback. Could you share how will a buff polish can be done? Regards!

 

[MileageMonster]

Changed out the cigarette lighter out to a duel USB And volt meter, and added some highway pegs

Looks like the placing of the highway pegs completely takes over the function of the crashbars…

 

[KGaron]

Thanks for the feedback. Could you share how will a buff polish can be done? Regards!

I don’t believe the Tenere has any low stiction coating on the fork tubes so IF your lower fork tube has scratches you can feel, you can use a fine wet sanding paper (1200-1500 grit) and smooth down the scratches. Then, with a bench mounted polishing wheel and some rouge, buff the surface smooth around the entire sliding area of the lower for tube.
Make sure, when replacing the seals, to grease the fork seal and cover the area on top of the for with a condom, or similar substance, before sliding the seal back down the tube. It is very easy to cut your brand new seal while installing them if not done properly..
These are the steps that I have used successfully in the past. I cannot guarantee they will work for you but it’s the best advice I can give.

 

[pilleway]

I don’t believe the Tenere has any low stiction coating on the fork tubes so IF your lower fork tube has scratches you can feel, you can use a fine wet sanding paper (1200-1500 grit) and smooth down the scratches. Then, with a bench mounted polishing wheel and some rouge, buff the surface smooth around the entire sliding area of the lower for tube.
Make sure, when replacing the seals, to grease the fork seal and cover the area on top of the for with a condom, or similar substance, before sliding the seal back down the tube. It is very easy to cut your brand new seal while installing them if not done properly..
These are the steps that I have used successfully in the past. I cannot guarantee they will work for you but it’s the best advice I can give.

I understand that this is not garantee but is a good advice!
have a great sunday.

 

[lund]

Today I starded to do front fork service due o a RH fork leak.
Found that the dust seal is broken as seen in the picture;
View attachment 87631
I think that the oil leak seen was not due to this seal.
The oil seal look ok did not have any cracks like dust seal.
The one called Metal Slide 1 there was a kind of pealoff seen in the internal coating, as you can see in the picture
View attachment 87632

looks like corrosion! Could the coating cause the oil leak?
the front fork piston looks clean in the outside coating.
My initial thought was the oil seal damage to be the one causing the leak, but the internal lip is clean and no cracks.

The dust seal, oil seal the metal slide 1 and the fork piston will be replaced.

So far did not see the source for the leak,
Any comment or recomendation will be appreciated.
Have a nice weekend.

The leak was caused by a worn out wiper seal no longer doing its job. The fine dust entered into the fork and worked away at the bushing and seal till it started to leak. The wiper had been bad for a while and it was just a mater of time before it started to leak.
Simple fix, replace the seals and bushing, make sure to wash out the tube well as any dust particles will had mixed into the old oil.
Take care if you polish any parts such as the tube's, it is IMO not too with the upper tube. The micro scratches (not seen by naked eye) caused by polishing can cause a point of wear on your new seal, thus not getting the live out of it. Just clean well and assemble, unless there is obvious damage in the upper tube. Then replacement might be a better option.
The lower tube inspect for scratches and ONLY dress the damaged areas as described, i would not do the entire rod for the same reason as above, plus there is no need too.
Once you are done and ready to ride i highly recommend fork socks of any brand, especially for you in Mexico.

Most forks repair we do had been done either recently or lasted less then 1/2 of the originals life. Some is because of aftermarket quality parts and poor tech ethics. But we also find plenty because of scratches from attempting to polish over zealously, rendering the part as scrap. Yes at times this is necessary but be extremely careful doing so.

 

[pilleway]

The leak was caused by a worn out wiper seal no longer doing its job. The fine dust entered into the fork and worked away at the bushing and seal till it started to leak. The wiper had been bad for a while and it was just a mater of time before it started to leak.
Simple fix, replace the seals and bushing, make sure to wash out the tube well as any dust particles will had mixed into the old oil.
Take care if you polish any parts such as the tube's, it is IMO not too with the upper tube. The micro scratches (not seen by naked eye) caused by polishing can cause a point of wear on your new seal, thus not getting the live out of it. Just clean well and assemble, unless there is obvious damage in the upper tube. Then replacement might be a better option.
The lower tube inspect for scratches and ONLY dress the damaged areas as described, i would not do the entire rod for the same reason as above, plus there is no need too.
Once you are done and ready to ride i highly recommend fork socks of any brand, especially for you in Mexico.

Most forks repair we do had been done either recently or lasted less then 1/2 of the originals life. Some is because of aftermarket quality parts and poor tech ethics. But we also find plenty because of scratches from attempting to polish over zealously, rendering the part as scrap. Yes at times this is necessary but be extremely careful doing so.

Thanks for the recommendation.
What do you mean "Once you are done and ready to ride i highly recommend fork socks of any brand, especially for you in Mexico. " are you saying I should replace the front shocks?

Thanks, have a nice day!

 

[lund]

Thanks for the recommendation.
What do you mean "Once you are done and ready to ride i highly recommend fork socks of any brand, especially for you in Mexico. " are you saying I should replace the front shocks?

Thanks, have a nice day!

If you have fork socks, clean them and use them. If you do not have fork socks i recommend buying some, it will help protect the fork seals.

 

[okiegtrider]

Fitted some Tusk soft bags. Don't know if I'll like this or not just yet, but want to give it try.