What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[Wistrick]

hit 5000 miles

Dan

 

[EricV]

1. Drill the head of the bolt and it should come right out if not cross threaded.
2. Buy a good quality set of allen wrenches.
3. Leave the torque wrench in the tool box, especially on small 6mm screws. I would bet you could watch 100 professional mechanics and not a one of them would use a toque wrench on that screw.

::026::
Torque settings are for two reasons. So you don't snap it off, and so it doesn't fall off. 90% can be done by feel, the other 10% are really, really important. That little screw just needs to not fall off and by finger with an allen wrench, you're not likely to snap it off. The Torque wrench kills any ability to feel what's going on. And results in damage, more often than not on non-essential fasteners.

Now, that all said, I'm a machinist with 20+ years experience and wrenched on cars for money for a dozen years. I love torque specs and torque wrenches, but don't use them for non-critical fasteners very often. Camshaft caps? You betcha! Lug nuts? Not my own, but every single customer car, just so I know they can get them loose by the side of the road with the oem wrench.

I saw more 6mm bolts snapped off by people that just couldn't get their heads around the term 'snug'. And more inch/pound torque wrenches broken by people using their whole hand instead of 2 fingers for something requiring 50 in/lbs of torque. Watched one guy actually 'take a stance' and brace himself, then put two hands on the little in/lb torque wrench in preparation to pull it with all his body weight... ??? I stopped him then, and showed him how to do it with two fingers. He was used to 600 ft/lbs and much larger, longer torque wrenches and just had no concept of what 50 in/lbs would feel like.

 

[autoteach]

Agreed about the essential torque and non essential torques. The only thing that I will chime in on is that most of the 6mm fasteners used on engine internals get one chance in life. What I am saying is this, after it has been assembled once to the torque value required by manufacturer, I have seen them repeatedly pull threads out of the engine parts when attempting the torque for a second time. I am not sure if this is because the fastener yielded the first time or if the threads are a touch dirty or need lubricant, or whatever. I usually do cam bearing caps by hand for this reason (well, on anything using a 6mm fastener) or I back down the torque wrench to a lower setting. I supposed you could always use a lube like moly and then back down the required input torque by 30% (I believe that is the value given by the sci-engineers).

 

[Don in Lodi]

Well... it was kinda yesterday, but I had recently put on new tires and upon reassembly the rear speed sensor allen head bolt had stripped a bit as I was torquing it down. So yesterday I was going to go pull the stripped allen head bolt and replace it with a new bolt. Knowing that it was already stripped a bit, I carefully put the allen socket in there and tapped it into place hoping to get a grip on it. No dice... the allen socket just spun in the bolt head rounding off all the corners. So I next went with a slightly larger torx socket and tapped it tightly into the stripped allen head and started to turn - it stripped just like the allen head socket had done. Damn!! Now I was left with fewer options. I went to the old standby of scoring a groove in the head of the allen bolt with a hacksaw and attempting to turn it out with a flat blade screwdriver. Once the groove was very carefully cut, I decided to use my little dewalt battery operated impact wrench with a flat blade tip to see if I could use the impact at the start to spin it free. No luck - I just bent over the tips of the flat blade screwdriver attachment. I then got a long handled screwdriver and tried it by hand - nothing and I broke the tip of the screwdriver off! This little bugger is in there tight! The weird thing is that the allen head bolt stripped BEFORE the torque wrench clicked so it is really not in there that tight. At least it is in there and the bike is rideable, but at some point that bolt has to come out if I want to change tires again. The allen head bolt is really buggered up now with the various removal attempts. So I am going to go buy a screw extractor kit and see if I can drill the bolt out enough to get the screw extractor to grab it. Ultimately I may sacrifice the speed sensor and/or attachment hub - either on purpose or incidental to my removal efforts - and be forced to order new ones for around $150. Hopefully not, but a potential Ouch!

Ok, bent one screw driver, broken off tip of the next one... You've already fused the screw to the housing. I've found extractors, especially the tiny ones, to be very brittle, very hard, but easy to snap off. If! you should get the screw to back out, it's gonna take the aluminum with it. You break the extractor off and no amount of drilling is going to help. Cut the screw off flush, sand it clean and smooth, gonna need paint afterwards, dimple the very center of the flush cut screw, start drilling. Left hand bits aren't a help here. Start tiny, work up step by tiny step till you get to the prescribed size to tap a new hole.
A lot of work.
Could cut flush, sand clean, paint, drill and tap an all new hole next to it. My recommended route. ::008::

 

[trikepilot]

Torque on that rear sensor bolt is tiny - 5.2 ft/lbs. I was using my torque wrench on it to make sure that I did not give it too MUCH torque rather than worrying about the "right" torque. My guess is that the allen socket was already compromised and that moment was "it's time."

There is no easy way to grind down the head as you say Don, because the speed sensor is plastic and is easily damaged when one gets down to the end of the bolt head grinding.

But the interesting part is that all this went down on Saturday. I had tried everything I could think of and gave up as I had alot on my plate with school. I went down there Sunday to take a final look before going to get an extractor kit. I found an old torx chuck swimming around the bottom of the old tool box. It fit my augured out hole pretty well. A couple of firm taps with a hammer really seated it into the mangled bolt. I slapped a 1/4" socket wrench on the end and voila.... the bolt turned out. I took the old bolt down to the hardware store and bought some replacements that closely matched (in SS so no magnetism issues). These new bolts have a bit larger "throat" on the allen socket so hopefully they will be less strip prone.

Not sure what happened and why it came out so easily 24hrs after I battled it - but it did and that's all that matters. As an added plus, the threads accepted the new bolt fine so they are intact. There are some scratches around the sensor area from my removal efforts but they will soon enough be covered by mud and dirt.

Lesson learned ... be careful with little bolts.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Strange indeed. Those pesky gremlins helping rather than hindering? ::012::

 

[AVGeek]

I pulled the rear wheel, so my wife can get the tire new tire mounted before I head up to Vegas (I fly back from Utah on Saturday, and have to turn right around to Vegas). I also pulled the pillion seat and grab handles back off, so I have room for gear. This will be a combined work/play trip (joining Joneil's ride on the 6th), so I have to be packed for both, and will be packing everything up today...

 

[~TABASCO~]

Threw on some guards this weekend... more details in vendor section.

 

[johnpitts01]

Finished the HID install, FastFlex handlebars new TKC80 on the rear and gloss silver paint on the side panels

Rode to the Philly suburbs for some dirt and gravel. Then back to the city for some history - Elfreth's Alley and the Betsy Ross house.

 

[avc8130]

I like the silver side panels. Very "Euro" .

ac

 

[kmac]

Z06,
PM sent about your trip.. ::008::
Love it. I am about to head out on some kind of solo trip, maybe Thursday, for about a week. I should be back by Wednesday night, but I can push it to Thursday night or Friday mid day because I have an appointment Friday evening {4/4} and I can not leave until my new gear bag gets here, I think its due on wed afternoon....probably heading to Horseshoe bend in Page Az. and Antelope canyon and the Wave. Maybe up to Grand Canyon NP...time permitting Bryce and or Zion and down home.

In preparation, what I did today on my scooter was mounted my tank bag on a quick disconnect. When Greg was here he ordered a SW-motech quick lock plate for his SWM tank bag because they changed the mount ring. I loved the idea of a ring mount over magnets or buckles and straps. I have a kinda cheap Nelson Rigg that I like the size and map sleeve on top but the buckles have all gotten broken so it was just a bag, useless....or

SWM would not sell both halves of their ring. You have to buy the ring for the tank AND a bag that has the matingring already on it....I looked and looked for something. I tried fabricating something but without a lathe or mill it was kinda hard to imagine something simple that released easy but was simple and light.

Finally found a composite plastic/nylon/fiberglass ring kit from Cortech that is a simple bolt on ring, bolt on the mate to the bottom of your bag, about an 1/8 turn and it snap locks in place. No where near as sophisticated as the Quick Lock system on the SWM. but for $20 it fit my needs perfectly. I see that it could possible get banged in a crash or something and pop off, but I do not see that as an issue overall and I was looking for a cheap way to mount it. Excellent.

The catalog and online ordering stated that it was not compatible with the S-ten, but it was. I picked one up for an R1, FZ..... in person at Chaparrel MS and checked fit right there, perfect fit.

Off for a ride soon ::012::

 

[kmac]

Here is a link to the model I purchased if anyone else wants one. FJR1300 fits same as the Ten

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/cortech-dryver-tank-bag-mounting-ring-set/03-8295-2301-11.aspx

 

[oKLRider]

...Finally found a composite plastic/nylon/fiberglass ring kit from Cortech that is a simple bolt on ring...

Yep, works great. ::024::

 

[ec90t]

Installed the factory heated grips. I need to shoot the technical writer that was responsible for the directions. It said to remove the left side panel and I was thinking to myself, "why". It turns out that I didn't have to even touch the left side of the bike. I learned this after removing the SW Motech engine guard and side panel

On a positive note, those grips are smokin' hot!

 

[rlasater]

Broke my start switch. Trailering (yes I know, blasphemy) from the hill country ride, the straps pulled the right grip off about an inch. This sheared off a plastic pin that keeps the switch from rotating, which it now does. Rats!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[BaldKnob]

Broke my start switch. Trailering (yes I know, blasphemy) from the hill country ride, the straps pulled the right grip off about an inch. This sheared off a plastic pin that keeps the switch from rotating, which it now does. Rats!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Sorry 'bout the switch and I know it's a little late but next time try wrapping the soft strap around the fork leg just above the lower clamp. This keeps the tiedown away from the plastic and controls.

 

[avc8130]

Finished the HID install, FastFlex handlebars new TKC80 on the rear and gloss silver paint on the side panels

Rode to the Philly suburbs for some dirt and gravel. Then back to the city for some history - Elfreth's Alley and the Betsy Ross house.

I REALLY like that silver. What paint did you use?

ac

 

[Don in Lodi]

I REALLY like that silver. What paint did you use?

ac

Okie Chrome?

 

[RED CAT]

Used Krylon plastic paint on mine. Seems to look good. Like the silver better than the black.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Last few weeks added Holan 38L bags and TT crash bars...almost done!

--G