Valve adjustment - more lessons learned

[TenereJourneyMan]

“Motorcycle maintenance gets frustrating. Angering. Infuriating. That's what makes it interesting.” Robert M. Pirsig

I think he wrote that about the S Ten valve adjustment. I have been wrenching on motorcycles for over 40 years. Generally, I find it therapeutic. It’s something I look forward to.

But not this particular job. There was no intrigue, no growth, no satisfaction. It was all ire and angst, thirst and itch. Just when I thought it was almost over… zing. There goes the airbox breather hose spring clamp, never to be seen again. And they are on a one month back order.

One month later arrived today. The bike is back together and I went for a short ride. She runs fine. But things are different between us now. We are like a young married couple after our first real fight. It’s all good. But we don’t see each other like we did during the courting phase.

I would gladly pay someone $1K to do this job. If I thought someone at the dealership actually could.

Poetically stated… kudos on your great perspective!

 

[airhead81]

you would think an adventure bike would be the easiest bikes in the world to work on

I did my brother's water boxer GS. It was a cake walk by comparison. I could (and did) adjust the valves on my airheads in the motel parking lot with the tools under the seat. Still, all things considered, I aint about to go back. One pain in the ass every 27K is a reasonable price to pay for all that sweetness in between, I suppose.

 

[holligl]

Lose use of a bike for a month waiting for an OEM hose clamp?! Go to Autozone and find a generic!

I will agree resetting the CCT requires some learning.

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[Boris]

My air box hose clamp was removed about 4 years and 25k miles ago. The shortness and route of that hose ensures that it’ll never fall off.

 

[WJBertrand]

My biggest gripe is not about the CCT. I spend as much time trying to get the damn valve cover gasket correctly positioned as I spend on the entirety of the remainder of the job. I wish the groove that holds the gasket was in the head instead of the cover.


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[holligl]

My biggest gripe is not about the CCT. I spend as much time trying to get the damn valve cover gasket correctly positioned as I spend on the entirety of the remainder of the job. I wish the groove that holds the gasket was in the head instead of the cover.


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Funny how certain things work for different people. I used the recommended gasket seal and stuck the gasket on the cover overnight. It was the easiest part of the job in my opinion... It was a new gasket.

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[airhead81]

My biggest gripe is not about the CCT. I spend as much time trying to get the damn valve cover gasket correctly positioned as I spend on the entirety of the remainder of the job. I wish the groove that holds the gasket was in the head instead of the cover.

Indeed. I ended up using a dental tool and lots of fiddling. The right side was a complete hail Mary since it is entirely obscured from view.

 

[WJBertrand]

Funny how certain things work for different people. I used the recommended gasket seal and stuck the gasket on the cover overnight. It was the easiest part of the job in my opinion... It was a new gasket.

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Yeah, I tried that too and still managed to snag the gasket and unseat it from the cover while trying to maneuver it into place.


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[mran]

Yeah, I tried that too and still managed to snag the gasket and unseat it from the cover while trying to maneuver it into place.


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Remove the wire harness fits in there just fine then. Zero issues and takes 10 mins to move.

Honestly one of the easier valve adjusts to do imo. Room for everything. Dont need to remove or move the radiator or res. Plenty of room to read all cam markings. More of a pita on the newer i4 bikes

 

[wera688]

I assume my initial valve adjustment interval was not appropriate. I had not checked the valve clearance. Yes it is a burnt exhaust valve. I ride 50-60,000 miles a year so I try to do it at least annually. Since it is my transportation there aren't many days it isn't ridden. But now since I have 2 Teneres, I have a backup bike.
I'm only waiting on back ordered exhaust valve springs to put everything back together, estimated Jan 2022.
"I would still like to hear what the valves measured at the point the photo was taken."

the mileage was 199,003 miles, Nov 4, 2020.
View attachment 87696View attachment 87697
#1 Intake both = .006. #2 Intake both= .005.
#1 Exhaust outer =.004. Inner .004 (cracked). #2 Exhaust outer= no clearance. Inner=.004
#1 cylinder = 0 psi compression. #2 cylinder = 30 psi compression.

2014 Head and bike are back together as of May 2022, I went with a MCCT from Graves.Today June 6 it finally got to 200,000 miles. Since I'm a valve checking and shim replacing expert now I'll check it again in 50K or so miles. fyi- my 2016 Tenere had it's first valve check and 3/4 exhaust valves were a little tight. I reset the intakes also, even thought they were in spec.

 

[AndyCBR]

In the middle of this job now. Shame you can't get OEM shims in 0.01mm increments like they come from the factory.

I have a Hot Cams kit but decided to next day air some 0.025 increment Pro-X shims to get 2 valves closer to center spec.

My measurements at 30k miles were as follows

EX .009"/.009"/.010"/.009" (Moved three to the next shorter shim size to get all at .010")
IN .005"/.006"/.005"/.004" (Moved two to get to center spec at .005")

As most have said the valve cover is a bear. It was so hard to get out I knew I wasn't going to be able to get it back in that way so I read up in the manual and found many more things to disconnect and move to make more clearance.

This thread was a great help!

Best,
Andy

 

[holligl]

In the middle of this job now. Shame you can't get OEM shims in 0.01mm increments like they come from the factory.

I have a Hot Cams kit but decided to next day air some 0.025 increment Pro-X shims to get 2 valves closer to center spec.

My measurements at 30k miles were as follows

EX .009"/.009"/.010"/.009" (Moved three to the next shorter shim size to get all at .010")
IN .005"/.006"/.005"/.004" (Moved two to get to center spec at .005")

As most have said the valve cover is a bear. It was so hard to get out I knew I wasn't going to be able to get it back in that way so I read up in the manual and found many more things to disconnect and move to make more clearance.

This thread was a great help!

Best,
Andy

Good experience to go ahead and adjust, even though they were still in spec. Most folks would have put it back together without adjusting. Given the effort involved and how they wear, I would go as high as you can within spec, given shims available, rather than targeting the middle of the range. They are going to wear over the miles and get tighter.

 

[AndyCBR]

Good experience to go ahead and adjust, even though they were still in spec. Most folks would have put it back together without adjusting. Given the effort involved and how they wear, I would go as high as you can within spec, given shims available, rather than targeting the middle of the range. They are going to wear over the miles and get tighter.

Yeah I'm not so sure about that. I think some of the high mileage guys are seeing little to no adjustment needed at the second check interval even at 80k or more if they center spec. I think things tend to set in at first and then change very little (or slower) over time after that.

I found it interesting I had one intake move loose and one move tight, this assumes they were set perfect at the factory though. Could just be variation in metallurgy of the valve seats or valves themselves creeping under temp and load.

I generally try to center spec if I am there. I wouldn't have been willing to go to 60k with 3 of the 4 exhaust on the tight side (but likely could have with no harm). Getting the damn valve cover off is half the battle so I wasn't going through all that just to button it back up.

I ride the thing like I stole it when off road so I tend to over maintain things.

 

[Tenman]

I fired my gen 1 up cold today and heard a couple of ticks that sounded like it was coming from the right side of the head. It sounded like a hydraulic lifter tap on a old ford. It did it again after it sat for 30 minutes or so. It runs fne. This was the first time I've started it in ages without my earbuds in. It could havebeen doing this a while. IDK. I guess it's time to roll the dice on a valve check. I've had a check at 26k miles. The dealer said they were in spec. I'm at 70k miles now. You never get to talk to a tech guy. Forget that. My bike has a lot of hours on it going slow down some rough dirt and gravel backroads. My fan gets a serious work out. Has anybody had this tick?

 

[holligl]

I fired my gen 1 up cold today and heard a couple of ticks that sounded like it was coming from the right side of the head. It sounded like a hydraulic lifter tap on a old ford. It did it again after it sat for 30 minutes or so. It runs fne. This was the first time I've started it in ages without my earbuds in. It could havebeen doing this a while. IDK. I guess it's time to roll the dice on a valve check. I've had a check at 26k miles. The dealer said they were in spec. I'm at 70k miles now. You never get to talk to a tech guy. Forget that. My bike has a lot of hours on it going slow down some rough dirt and gravel backroads. My fan gets a serious work out. Has anybody had this tick?

Still got the original Gen1 CCT? If so, I would pull the trigger on a check, and replace the CCT too.

 

[Tenman]

Still got the original Gen1 CCT? If so, I would pull the trigger on a check, and replace the CCT too.

I updated to the 14' model cct at 15k miles. Works fine. Might as well change it I guess. They are $190 Then there's the other side. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[holligl]

Got a couple newer OEM CCT's from ~tabasco~ so I just reset them both. "Perfected" my reset technique. 1st one took 10 minutes, the second took less than 5. Used an old bearing with a couple layers of an old bicycle inner tube on the outer race. (From my last valve adjustment.) The inner race fits around the cylinder of the CCT. One layer of the tube on the piston end keeps it from spinning once some pressure builds. I used a couple O-rings to center the vise handle so the weight didn't make it turn back. About 1/16" compression per partial rotation. If it starts to bind, just back off and rotate the body. Almost fun...

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[cyclemike4]

Got a couple newer OEM CCT's from ~tabasco~ so I just reset them both. "Perfected" my reset technique. 1st one took 10 minutes, the second took less than 5. Used an old bearing with a couple layers of an old bicycle inner tube on the outer race. (From my last valve adjustment.) The inner race fits around the cylinder of the CCT. One layer of the tube on the piston end keeps it from spinning once some pressure builds. I used a couple O-rings to center the vise handle so the weight didn't make it turn back. About 1/16" compression per partial rotation. If it starts to bind, just back off and rotate the body. Almost fun...

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Great Idea! I like the bearing. I had trouble using my vise but I found a really fine threaded C clamp in my shop put it in the vise and the fine threaded C clamp made it easy for me to not put too much pressure on the CCT while I was turning it in. It also had a swivel on the threaded end. Next time I may set up that bearing idea though. I like it!

 

[holligl]

Completed my second valve adjustment. Here is my wear rate analysis. I won't be skipping any intervals. I may try to pre-stock projected shims next time to get to the high end of the range on all the exhaust.

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[holligl]

A lesson learned twice now (both valve checks I've done). In removing/reinstalling the Throttle bodies, it is much easier to disconnect/reconnect the throttle cables with the TB off the manifold. The service manual calls out disconnecting both first. Nearly impossible IMHO.

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