This is a quote from wera688 last year.With that many miles, what has been your history on checks and adjustments? Other than that one valve it looks pretty clean given the miles.
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I would still like to hear what the valves measured at the point the photo was taken. Was it still running with the burnt valve? Rebuilt??This is a quote from wera688 last year.
Mine has 178,000 miles. I service the forks yearly. I replaced the wheel bearings at 100K. Spark plugs are replaced every 40-70,000 miles. Other than engine/filter/rear drive oil changes/air filter cleaning, nothing else has been done.
Good calibration for the rest of us Steve!Today It's snowing so I started on my 2012.
Hope this helps out some of you.
The first thing I did was determined if the cam chain needed replaced.
To do this you need to block the rear guide, so it keeps the chain snug.
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I have a Graves manual tensioner, and this is what was left on the adjustment, so I knew the chain was getting wore to the limit.
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Notice very little threads left on the outside before they go inside the lock nut
This is how much threads it has for adjustment.
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I still have the OEM tensioner, Here it is with the plunger all the way out.
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I put this into the head to determine how much adjustment it would have had left to push on the guide.
You can see without even pushing in on it that it has very little adjustment left if I was still using the OEM tensioner.
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This is the new chain on the left and shows how much longer the old chain is. This is the second time I have replaced the chain now. The first chain had 121,900 miles on it. So this chain had 155,700 miles on it.
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And after adjusting and putting it back together, this is what the Graves tensioner looks like now.
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And for you that think the sprockets wear out this is what my sprockets look like with 277,588 miles on them. Look like new.
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My guess is they are the same. I wonder how much the chain lengthens at operating temperature. I am assuming the automatic CCTs are used to minimize maintenance and to provide a more consistent pressure??Very interesting. I wonder, did you have a chance to compare the number of links in the old vs. new chain?
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I'll work on trying to answer all the questions.Good calibration for the rest of us Steve!
How frequently did you adjust the graves CCT? How were the valves? It would be interesting to know how much the valves have changed since new, given your mileage. It does look like the Graves might give a little more adjustment than the OEM.
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The chains are exact in number of links, If they weren't you couldn't get the cam timing right.Very interesting. I wonder, did you have a chance to compare the number of links in the old vs. new chain?
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The OEM CCT is defiantly the easy way to go. A lot of riders would have a hard time keeping the manual CCT set correctly. Somone with hard of heiring when it just starts to make noise would be riding around with a loose chain. It takes some getting used to and being aware when it just starts to rattle like on no throttle going down a step hill is when I usually first notice it.My guess is they are the same. I wonder how much the chain lengthens at operating temperature. I am assuming the automatic CCTs are used to minimize maintenance and to provide a more consistent pressure??
I like to think of the measurements in terms of the .06mm range:It has been 92,200 miles since last adjustment.
3--- It would be interesting to know how much the valves have changed since new,
I have kept pretty good records, The first time that I had to adjust the valves I put [from left to right] 190 190 188 188 in Exhaust. That was at 63,162 miles. I didn't record what size that I took out.
I don't think the intakes have ever been adjusted but if I did dial any of them into the center I just didn't keep track/
The exhaust shims today are 178 182 185 182
I actually purchased front and rear guides before I changed the chain the first time. There is no way to replace the front guide without pulling the head. I went ahead and replaced the rear guide at that time but there was not noticeable wear on the old guide. To replace the chain you have to unbolt the chain guide at the bottom sprocket, so the rear guide just falls out at that time. It still looked brand new. I don't see any reason to ever replace the guides.How much wear do the chain guides show after all those miles?
The little experience that I have had with other guys putting in the Manual tensioner then contacting me saying they think their bike is noisy , I have told them to try tightening the tensioner more and see if that helps, They always set it up for the first time on the "safe" side and it is noisy. The chain actually runs pretty tight with the OEM tensioner. I try to mess with the chain to see just how tight it is before removing the OEM then try to get the manual tensioner to have about the same tension.Chain adjustment issues can go both ways - if you're too picky about the noise, you could keep the chain too tight and wear it faster.
I think everyone develops a "feel" for what they think is right, but I suspect many choose something that is always loose or always tight, depending on their sensitivity to the S10 set of noises.