Valve adjustment - more lessons learned

holligl

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Further refinement given the specified interval 26.6Kmi:
92.2/26.6 = 3.5 intervals.
(If an allowable wear rate is Range/Interval, .06mm/26.6Kmi = .0023mm/Kmi)

1.9 - 1.78 = .12, (2x range/3.5 intervals), 57% allowable wear rate
1.9 - 1.82 = .08, (1.3/3.5), 38%
1.88 - 1.85 = .03, (.5/3.5), 14%
1.88 - 1.82 = .06, (1/3.5), 28%

If you were close to the bottom of the range but did not change, should it be OK if they get as low as .22-.06 = .16mm by the next interval? Maybe beyond that is pushing your luck??

Note: I admit I got up too early this morning...
 

RCinNC

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I just had the OEM CCT replaced with the newer model in my 2014 (this is the third version). I went back and forth about putting in a manual, and finally figured that I just didn't want to mess with trying to get the chain tension "just right". I don't know if I have a good enough ear to be able to tell what "just right" would be.

I had the valves checked at the same time as the CCT replacement, at 84,000 miles. I thought about having the cam chain replaced at the same time, but decided against it. I figured 84,000 was still pretty early for something like that. It's good to see a photo of a chain that's been in the bike as long as yours have, since it finally gives me a notion of just how much they can stretch out over high mileage. I'll give the replacement idea some strong consideration when its time for the fourth valve check.

My valves have all been in spec for all three valve checks. I didn't ask for the measurements on the first one, but they haven't changed for the second and third. I have one that's right on the edge of spec, which I'll probably address with the next valve check.
 

Tenman

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I just sent an email to the dealer where I bought my S10. (100 miles away). The shop managers seem to be different every time I've been there. As far as talking to a mechanic. Forget it. They are in the back "forbidden area". I asked about the difference in the price on a check and an actual adjustment. I hear it can be a pita. I also ask if they would allow me to get the gaskets to help speed the process. I got a feeling it's gonna be the full price for an adjustment. The dealer that did my first 24k mile charged me $571.74 for the job and it was allegedly in specs.
 

holligl

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The dealer that did my first 24k mile charged me $571.74 for the job and it was allegedly in specs.
For other first timers, don't accept "They were all in spec". Always ask for the measurements when you drop off the bike, specifically for all 8 valves (draw them a picture if needed).
1 - You will know how much reserve you have,
2 - You will know how much they are wearing at your next check.
3 - Slightly better odds of knowing they really checked them with some precision if you make them write it down.

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Tenman

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They did give me a sheet but forgot to write down one valve measurement. The price they gave me on the job went up at bill time. I told the young girl that ihave an email with a different price. She went somewhere and came back. She honored the price I had. But they TRIED to get another victim. That’s why I’m trying a different dealer.
 

airhead81

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Thanks to everyone for this thread. I am in the middle of a valve adjustment and found it helpful.

I had a frustrating experience with the CCT. After removal, I held it in my hand, observed how the protruding piston rotated inside the housing when all of a sudden it came apart in my hand. I was never able to get it back together. The threaded part would just spin and never retract. As there is no schematic available showing the internal parts, I figured I must have lost something and just bought a new one. Here are the parts I have. Can anyone tell me what is missing?
 

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airhead81

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Here is my contribution. The new CCT came from the factory retracted (thankfully). I had to take this macro photo and study it for a minute to understand the mechanism by which the piston is held back, and then later released by compressing it slightly with the tip of a screwdriver, and then letting it go.

The top circlip is resting in a small, shallow groove in the housing that forces it into a groove in the piston. Upon compression, it is pushed downward and expands into a deeper groove in the housing, and out of the groove in the piston, thus releasing the piston. For some reason, I was never able to figure that part out, not that it matters, only that it works.
 

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holligl

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Thanks to everyone for this thread. I am in the middle of a valve adjustment and found it helpful.

I had a frustrating experience with the CCT. After removal, I held it in my hand, observed how the protruding piston rotated inside the housing when all of a sudden it came apart in my had. I was never able to get it back together. The threaded part would just spin and never retract. As there is no schematic available showing the internal parts, I figured I must have lost something and just bought a new one. Here are the parts I have. Can anyone tell me what is missing?
Nice to see the internals. Did you try to compress with some pressure while rotating? I am guessing the non-compressed retaining clip holds it together. eemsreno or ~tabasco~ could probably tell you. What year and how many miles on it?

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airhead81

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Nice to see the internals. Did you try to compress with some pressure while rotating? I am guessing the non-compressed retaining clip holds it together. eemsreno or ~tabasco~ could probably tell you. What year and how many miles on it?

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I did try that in a vice and also with some clamps. The problem is that the threaded inner part has to be "stopped" by friction against something at the bottom of the housing. Otherwise it just spins right along with the piston and never retracts. That was my problem. No amount of clamping force would stop the threaded barrel from spinning with the piston.

I am guessing that there is a rubber bumper of some sort that either rests on the threaded barrel or at the bottom of the housing that keeps it from spinning while under pressure. That is the part I think I lost. But that's just my best guess.
 

airhead81

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Nice to see the internals. Did you try to compress with some pressure while rotating? I am guessing the non-compressed retaining clip holds it together. eemsreno or ~tabasco~ could probably tell you. What year and how many miles on it?

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Sorry, 2015 model with 26,223 miles. All of the exhaust valves were out of spec (tight). All of the intakes were in spec but on the low side. I changed all of the shims but one intake. Photo of valve lash readings attached.
 

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holligl

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I did try that in a vice and also with some clamps. The problem is that the threaded inner part has to be "stopped" by friction against something at the bottom of the housing. Otherwise it just spins right along with the piston and never retracts. That was my problem. No amount of clamping force would stop the threaded barrel from spinning with the piston.

I am guessing that there is a rubber bumper of some sort that either rests on the threaded barrel or at the bottom of the housing that keeps it from spinning while under pressure. That is the part I think I lost. But that's just my best guess.
The key is "just enough" pressure while spinning. If/when it resists at all, stop and back off a little bit. More pressure gets you nowhere. Also, wear gloves for the sharp edges. Is the inside of the piston a smooth bore? I don't get what (if anything) fits in the spiral groove. I doubt there is any rubber in the assembly.

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bnschroder

2014 Super Tenere ES
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I finally purchased the Service Manual and noticed that the camshaft removal section comes right after engine removal.
Has anybody here dropped the engine to do the valves and found that the improved access was worth the extra effort?


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airhead81

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The piston goes together like this. The threaded barrel threads into the piston. When you re retracting the piston, you are threading the barrel further into the piston. This is what is happening when you are rotating the piston or the body.

I still am not clear on what exactly holds the threaded barrel from spinning other than pressure against the bottom of the housing. As an exercise, I removed all of the springs and attempted to use varying amounts of pressure to get it to thread. I never found the proper amount, evidently. You have one oily smooth metal surface on another. Just about zero friction between the two.
 

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airhead81

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I finally purchased the Service Manual and noticed that the camshaft removal section comes right after engine removal.
Has anybody here dropped the engine to do the valves and found that the improved access was worth the extra effort?


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It is not necessary to remove the engine. Are you sure it says that? I do not recall reading it. In fact, it tells you to remove the break lines in order to more easily be able to remove the valve cover from the head while it is in the bike.
 

bnschroder

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It doesn’t say so indeed, but it is so tight and would be so much easier that I wondered if that may be a better way next time I need to check my valves.


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holligl

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I finally purchased the Service Manual and noticed that the camshaft removal section comes right after engine removal.
Has anybody here dropped the engine to do the valves and found that the improved access was worth the extra effort?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Waste of time/effort in my opinion. Manual Sections in that sequence doesn't infer one is done before the other.
Some folks do like to remove the front wheel and forks, just to make it easier to work and see. That makes more sense to me than removing the engine. It does get a little tricky to spot the alignment marks on the cams, but if in the correct position to start, and zip tied to the chain, that becomes a confirmation check. Cellphone camera can get in there pretty good.
 

tntmo

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Why would you remove the engine to do a valve adjustment? The most difficult part of the job is getting the alignment marks correct, Yamaha would have been wise to put those on both sides of the cam sprockets. Otherwise the valve adjustment on the Tenere is not any more difficult than many modern motorcycles.
 

airhead81

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“Motorcycle maintenance gets frustrating. Angering. Infuriating. That's what makes it interesting.” Robert M. Pirsig

I think he wrote that about the S Ten valve adjustment. I have been wrenching on motorcycles for over 40 years. Generally, I find it therapeutic. It’s something I look forward to.

But not this particular job. There was no intrigue, no growth, no satisfaction. It was all ire and angst, thirst and itch. Just when I thought it was almost over… zing. There goes the airbox breather hose spring clamp, never to be seen again. And they are on a one month back order.

One month later arrived today. The bike is back together and I went for a short ride. She runs fine. But things are different between us now. We are like a young married couple after our first real fight. It’s all good. But we don’t see each other like we did during the courting phase.

I would gladly pay someone $1K to do this job. If I thought someone at the dealership actually could.
 
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cyclemike4

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ky
“Motorcycle maintenance gets frustrating. Angering. Infuriating. That's what makes it interesting.” Robert M. Pirsig

I think he wrote that about the S Ten valve adjustment. I have been wrenching on motorcycles for over 40 years. Generally, I find it therapeutic. It’s something I look forward to.

But not this particular job. There was no intrigue, no growth, no satisfaction. It was all ire and angst, thirst and itch. Just when I thought it was almost over… zing. There goes the airbox breather hose spring clamp, never to be seen again. And they are on a one month back order.

One month later arrived today. The bike is back together and I went for a short ride. She runs fine. But things are different between us now. We are like a young married couple after our first real fight. It’s all good. But we don’t see each other like we did during the courting phase.

I would gladly pay someone $1K to do this job. If I thought someone at the dealership actually could.
I have to admit this is one of the hardest bikes I have ever owned to do a valve adjustment on. Just the fact that the crank has the 270 degree pins makes things difficult for me. then resetting the timing chain tensioner is another story. I still have my old 89 FJ1200 and I don't ever remember that bike taking longer than 2 hours to check the valves and even adjust the valves if I had the shims and back running again. Everything on that bike was easy to work on. you would think an adventure bike would be the easiest bikes in the world to work on considering some will take them around the world. Oh well everything has gotten complicated and more stuff shoved into tighter spaces all for our own good. Good thing this a rock solid bike. that definitely is a good thing about it.
 
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