Summary About Lights

Mikecmp

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
54
Location
Chardon, oh
Got mine on eBay for about 35 bucks I think. Put them in the other day, they look pretty good. I printed out my own bugger caps. Road the bike a few hours today and they seemed fine, was worried about the heat but I’m guessing they’ll be alright.

Had them out last night in the dark, the pattern is a little wierd, not much you can do since they have LEDs on two sides. It my fog lights help fill in. The color is nice and they are plenty bright, on high can see quite well.

Thanks for the tips for these lights, much better than 180 bucks for the cyclops!

Mike
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Got mine on eBay for about 35 bucks I think. Put them in the other day, they look pretty good. I printed out my own bugger caps. Road the bike a few hours today and they seemed fine, was worried about the heat but I’m guessing they’ll be alright.

Had them out last night in the dark, the pattern is a little wierd, not much you can do since they have LEDs on two sides. It my fog lights help fill in. The color is nice and they are plenty bright, on high can see quite well.

Thanks for the tips for these lights, much better than 180 bucks for the cyclops!

Mike
They are a very nice upgrade. Unfortunately these projection lights suck as far as getting both low beam and high beam properly adjusted. BTW don't forget to go to the auto parts and get the LED running lights.
 

VRODE

Easy Does It
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Messages
946
Location
Northern Vermont
Ordered the NovSight H7’s. The regulator and fan assembly is larger than the Cyclops they replace. I’ve ordered Deftoner’s larger caps in the meantime. I suppose I could look for the fanless models or something smaller, but for now I’ll try to work with these.
The Cyclops had one led looking toasty on the left side and both on the right bike were toast. I’m guessing the heat takes its toll after awhile. There are probably about 12k mi on them.
 

Dirt_Dad

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I finally get it. Never really ridden in the dark with the Tenere before. Yesterday I found myself on the Indianapolis beltway at 5:30 am darkness. Holy crap, the Tenere light suck!

I'm sure the AltRider rock guard, 3M film, and pin lock didn't help, but damn thos lights are horrible.
 

SHUMBA

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Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,242
Location
ONTARIO, CANADA
I finally get it. Never really ridden in the dark with the Tenere before. Yesterday I found myself on the Indianapolis beltway at 5:30 am darkness. Holy crap, the Tenere light suck!

I'm sure the AltRider rock guard, 3M film, and pin lock didn't help, but damn thos lights are horrible.
Agree, they are halogen headlights, so I added thre LEDS to my Tenere.
One on each crash bar and a rectangular Led light under the headlights.
Looks and works great. Additional safety for daytime riding as well.
Tenere needs additional lighting....period
SHUMBA

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BaldKnob

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Messages
776
Location
SENC
For the cost of these machines... We should be getting LEDs included from the Factory. I’m using Cyclops and luv ‘em but worry about the limited life some have experienced. I did have 1 failure that was replaced by Cyclops for no charge. The new set appear to have a smaller ballast brick that is way easier to stash inside the light housing.
 

twinrider

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Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
1,882
Location
Yokohama
For the cost of these machines... We should be getting LEDs included from the Factory. I’m using Cyclops and luv ‘em but worry about the limited life some have experienced. I did have 1 failure that was replaced by Cyclops for no charge. The new set appear to have a smaller ballast brick that is way easier to stash inside the light housing.
I ran Morimoto HIDs in my last S10 for 5 years/60.000 km with no issues. Tried Cyclops leds on my new S10 but was disappointed with the output so went back to Morimotos. Two years/30,000 km on them without any issues. More reliable, better focused and brighter than the LED conversion kits.
 
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msch

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Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
125
Location
Santiago, Chile

UGLY58

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
10
These LED Lights were recommended in this thread somewhere.


They don`t fit with any sort of dust cap, even deftoners Extended versions


I ordered some alternatives that I think will fit really nicely, will report back if that is true. Got to love Amazon`s return policy !
 

UGLY58

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
10
These LED Lights were recommended in this thread somewhere.


They don`t fit with any sort of dust cap, even deftoners Extended versions


I ordered some alternatives that I think will fit really nicely, will report back if that is true. Got to love Amazon`s return policy !

Fitted like a champ
 

WookinPaNub

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Messages
57
Location
Cotopaxi, CO
There are a number of threads on the forum with some excellent nuggets of information, but I've yet to find a consolidated thread with most of the details / considerations to be considered. If others have additional details / experiences please feel free to chime in.

In general this is a easy / straightforward relatively cheap upgrade when the normal headlights require replacement. My intention for doing this was to (hopefully) extend the time between replacements with a longer life LED version. The only downside is that with the caps we have covering, bleeding off that heat is difficult at best (without drilling holes, which then allows dust and water infiltration) and LEDs don't like heat. So we shall see how well this works longer term.

Items you'll need to purchase:
1) Extended caps: These replace the std ones (rubber O rings can be reused) and give greater depth to allow for the LED heatsinks behind the diodes. I purchased mine from forum member deftoner (Victor) who was great to work with and a quick ship for $35 for the set at the time of this post.
2) Pair of LED bulbs: Prices on these can vary depending on what you decide on, mine were $30 for a well reviewed pair. I chose Nighteye A315-S1 ( Nighteye A315-S1 on Amazon). See specs / considerations below.

Considerations for the LED replacements:
1) Type: Must be listed as H7 compatible to use the existing plugs
2) Cooling: This can be a fan or heatsinks. As I don't like moving parts that can break, I opted for the fanless.
3) Driver: Some will have the driver for the LEDs on the cable coming out the back of the lights, which even with extended caps can be hard to fit in. I opted for an integrated driver which packs it inside the unit for a smaller profile.
3) Lumens: This is the brightness, and the standard bulbs (I believe) are around 4000 lumens (2k per bulb). Someone correct me on this pls. A side consideration is the more lumens the more heat to dissipate, so I opted for 8000 lumens (4k per bulb).
4) Warmth: This is the coloration of the lights which then dictates to how easily it can be seen at night. I don't personally like a yellow light and see better with a whiter light, so I opted for a 6500k version.
5) IP68 Rating: Optional, but that means the unit is deemed fit enough to withstand dust, dirt and sand, and are resistant to submersion up to a maximum depth of 1.5m underwater for up to thirty minutes. Hopefully I don't have my S10 submerged that long, but fortune favors the prepared.
6) Lifespan: To be taken with a grain of salt given the difficulties keeping the LEDs cool behind the caps. The ones I chose say 100k hours, but even if I get half of that I'll take it as an improvement.
7) Warranty: Not sure how valuable this is given its a nonstandard installation, but the ones I chose were 3 years.

Installation:
1) Remove the current caps, pull off the existing O rings and set aside.
2) Remove bulbs noting the base has a 'tab' that orients in the 7 o'clock position in the housing
3) Mine had a removable base with the same tab as the standard, that the rest of the bulb will fit into and lock into that secured base with a twist after it is secured with the standard metal arm clips. I installed my base with the tab at the 7 o'clock position as the standard. Note: Use gloves when handling the LEDs as the oils on your hands can be degrading. The bulbs I chose came with a set.
4) Some LEDs will allow you to change the orientation of the LED diodes in the base to control where the diodes are pointing. Mine did not without modification, and after consideration I want to test the LEDs with this orientation as it actually makes sense to me. My LEDs force the diodes to shine primarily in the 7 o'clock position (which is down and away from oncoming drivers) and also in the 2 o'clock position (up and away from oncoming drivers). This is actually quite similar to the european bulbs in cars to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. Some folks prefer the diodes shining at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, so ymmv.
5) Plug the LEDs into the wire harness and test (you have to start the bike). If a LED is not shining, unplug and reverse and some are polarity specfic (mine were).
6) Take the original rubber O rings an put them on the extended caps. Replace the caps and you are done.
 

MonkeyBut

Fuel Whore
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
262
Location
Armpit of America, NJ
I'm trying ween myself off the halogens that do not last. I read this entire thread but figured I'd ask here. I'm electrically stupid to the Nth degree. So with that said the picture attached was me scrolling Amazon minutes ago. Is this the correct LED bulb set to purchase? Thank you in advance, TomScreenshot_20201124-113508_Amazon Shopping.jpg
And with these, the caps from one of our vendors will work?
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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I ran Morimoto HIDs in my last S10 for 5 years/60.000 km with no issues. Tried Cyclops leds on my new S10 but was disappointed with the output so went back to Morimotos. Two years/30,000 km on them without any issues. More reliable, better focused and brighter than the LED conversion kits.

Did you go 35W or 50W ? Thanks
 

hodee

Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Messages
85
Location
Houston,Tx
I have a weird question concerning front turn signal lights. I am wondering if these are supposed to be on during normal riding? They still blink when the switch is activated but I dont remember if they were "always on" while riding. I just replaced the headlight bulbs recently.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,562
Location
Ventura, CA
I have a weird question concerning front turn signal lights. I am wondering if these are supposed to be on during normal riding? They still blink when the switch is activated but I dont remember if they were "always on" while riding. I just replaced the headlight bulbs recently.
Normal.


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