Stripped oil pan threads

Senor Ramon

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So, yes, I am guilty of stripping one of the oil pan threads while changing the S10's oil. I have done a search and read some posts about this subject. I have several options.

The two most compelling are: 1. Buy a new pan, or 2. Remove old pan and re-thread with Time Sert or take to machinist to to do it (which may be costly).

If I do decide to remove the pan myself and use a time sert. Does anyone know what size Time Sert I need? Also, after using the time sert, will the original OEM drain plug size be usable? Thanks.
 

Sierra1

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What will the net cost(s) for each option? You can very likely replace the pan yourself. The cost of re-threading may come to be a higher cost since you have to get another person involved.
 

Senor Ramon

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What will the net cost(s) for each option? You can very likely replace the pan yourself. The cost of re-threading may come to be a higher cost since you have to get another person involved.
Sierra1,

I honestly don't know the true cost yet until I contact some machine shops in the area tomorrow to see what re-threading will cost.

If I do drop the pan and try to Time Sert it myself, it's definitely going to cost +$100 for the Time Sert Kit +$$ for gaskets, etc. So I am still undecided.
 

tntmo

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Helicoils done correctly are a good solution. They are not difficult to install and are reasonably priced. I would remove the oil pan to install it but it could be done on the bike.
 

Jlq1969

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It is that I would not be understanding what is the need to "use the oem screws". If it had happened to me, I would simply rethread for a screw of the next size and use a new screw of that size. it is just a screw/plug….if it were a screw that needs a lot of tightening torque, well….in that case we would have to find the best solution, but changing the oil pan for a plug,?….would not seem the most rational to me
 

~TABASCO~

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Like you suggested. Time Sert. Those are fantastic and stronger than the aluminum threads.
 

Senor Ramon

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Helicoils done correctly are a good solution. They are not difficult to install and are reasonably priced. I would remove the oil pan to install it but it could be done on the bike.
I considered Helicoils. I thought that they were not the best solution for something removed rather often?

Nonetheless, if I decide to go this route, what size should I purchase?
 

tntmo

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I considered Helicoils. I thought that they were not the best solution for something removed rather often?

Nonetheless, if I decide to go this route, what size should I purchase?
Aviation uses helicoils in all sorts of equipment, mostly components made from aluminum that are threaded. I figure if it's good enough for flying equipment.....

I would just use the stock size. M8x1.25 maybe? I'm not sure what the thread pitch is.
 

Senor Ramon

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So the oil pan is stuck or stubborn.

I drained the oil from both plugs and oil filter.

Removed all of the underlying bolts including loosening the oil sensor, and the strainer cover.

Tapped gently with a dead blow hammer on the sides. Won't budge. I carefully checked that I removed all of the bolts. Have I forgotten something? Do I need to gently pry it open with a putty knife?

Any advice?
 

Don in Lodi

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There are probably a couple guide pins. A sharp blow from the side won't do anything with pins in the way. Gonna have to go with a sharp edge at the seam.
 

lund

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TORQUE WRENCH, TORQUE WRENCH, TORQUE WRENCH.
It sure saves alot of grieve and money. No one should pull wrenches without one, we are not in the age of heavy iron of the 1940's anymore.
My advice, new pan and a torque wrench. BTW a service book is the most useful tool you could have, will save you coin and head aches.
 

SkunkWorks

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Did you remove the Strainer Cover?
There may be one or two oil-Pan bolts underneath that cover?
 
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