Rear brake failure.

20valves

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AVGeek said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the linked brakes, does pushing the rear pedal activate any of the pots in the front calipers? I know the FJR has this setup, and when mine was spongy on the rear brake, I had to bleed the line to the front caliper.
You're partially correct.

FJR's link is opposite of the Tenere. The Tenere front brake lever also activates the rear brake whereas the FJR rear brake pedal activates the rear brake and a portion of the front. Bottom line though is yes, they're connected and the entire system needs to be bled to say you have bled either the front or the rear.
 

limey

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Brick said:
limey what was the final determination on your bike? Was it the ABS unit?
After three days in and out the shop in Ouray and in my local shop in Canada they finally believed me that the ABS unit was sucking in Air and was replaced under warranty . I believe the unit is around $1100.
 

limey

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Old Git Ray said:
I am now suffering the same problem (48k miles). I keep bleeding the rear and after a while it gets more and more spongy and eventually gives up. There is (obviously !) air in the system each time, so I rang Yamaha technical UK if it could be the ABS unit and they said emphatically NO. Even if it fails, it would not let air in. He suggested the master cylinder seals so I am going to order a complete set of seals, front and back, master and slave, and replace the lot.
Ray they did the same with mine. Day one canadian dealer bled the brakes, day two bleed them again, day three dealer had a Yamaha rep come and bleed the brakes, day four leaving for Colorado I myself bled the rear, only lasted about 100km, day five tried again still no luck and gave up. And it's dam well bloody nerv racking riding with no rear brakes in the rain. Arrived in Ouray dealer told me it's impossible for air to enter though through the unit so back to bleeding the brakes. Day two changed the master cyl with no luck and this time they marked the oil level in the reservoir and used talcum powder on all the lines , that only lasted a few pumps on the rear brake. Next day back to the dealer and this time the reservoir had about 1/4 inch more oil than the day before and all the lines where dry ( no leaks ). So after all this they removed the ABS unit from one of the bikes on the floor . Problem solved.
 

Koinz

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limey said:
Ray they did the same with mine. Day one canadian dealer bled the brakes, day two bleed them again, day three dealer had a Yamaha rep come and bleed the brakes, day four leaving for Colorado I myself bled the rear, only lasted about 100km, day five tried again still no luck and gave up. And it's dam well bloody nerv racking riding with no rear brakes in the rain. Arrived in Ouray dealer told me it's impossible for air to enter though through the unit so back to bleeding the brakes. Day two changed the master cyl with no luck and this time they marked the oil level in the reservoir and used talcum powder on all the lines , that only lasted a few pumps on the rear brake. Next day back to the dealer and this time the reservoir had about 1/4 inch more oil than the day before and all the lines where dry ( no leaks ). So after all this they removed the ABS unit from one of the bikes on the floor . Problem solved.
I wonder if it's a stuck valve in the ABS unit that is bleeding fluid from one side to the other. Would an ABS Diagnostic check catch that. It's supposed to work the valves in the ABS unit to check for operation, isn't it :question:
 

offcamber

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gonpro said:
rear brake failure- s 10 2013 model 44,000 k
same long diagnostic 4 days in the garage
eventually the local dealer replace ( under warranty) the hydraulic unit assy and problem was solved
link to part finder page
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/yamahagenuineparts/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahamc&a=755&b=13&c=0&d=2013%20SUPER%20TENERE%20ELECTRICAL%203 ::021::
If I have this problem I hope it goes while under Warranty.....$1500 yikes! If I had to pay that out of pocket I would be riding less and worrying more.....
 

Koinz

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offcamber said:
If I have this problem I hope it goes while under Warranty.....$1500 yikes! If I had to pay that out of pocket I would be riding less and worrying more.....
::026::

Totally Agree. I'm going to have to exercise my rear brake abs stops more often. :D

If this becomes more predominant, I wonder if Yamaha would recall this as a safety issue. People who had this problem should register on the NHTSA site.
 

Checkswrecks

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Koinz said:
::026::

Totally Agree. I'm going to have to exercise my rear brake abs stops more often. :D

If this becomes more predominant, I wonder if Yamaha would recall this as a safety issue. People who had this problem should register on the NHTSA site.

::026::


NHTSA takes ABS faults EXTREMELY seriously and as you found repairs can be very expensive.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE file any ABS failures as complaints with NHTSA at the top right of this page:


http://www.safercar.gov


Filing is actually very easy, filed complaints are watched like hawks by both NHTSA and the manufacturers, plus are almost the only way to get recalls. It was how we got a couple of recalls in the FJRForum, so I know it works.


Thanks!
 

~TABASCO~

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Just as a safety side note:

I've been seeing many more rear disc out of thickness spec. Its very misleading by looking at the rear disc. I've been ordering several at a time for customers. The disc thickness limit is 4.5mm, I've seen several below 4.... Check the rear pads as well, the inside tends to wear more than the out side, DONT just look at the out side pad... ::024::
 

imcja

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Checkswrecks said:
NHTSA takes ABS faults EXTREMELY seriously and as you found repairs can be very expensive.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE file any ABS failures as complaints with NHTSA at the top right of this page:


http://www.safercar.gov


Filing is actually very easy, filed complaints are watched like hawks by both NHTSA and the manufacturers, plus are almost the only way to get recalls. It was how we got a couple of recalls in the FJRForum, so I know it works.


Thanks!
::026::
 

Derekj

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I would think that the abs works both front and rear brakes. Why would only the rear be affected , unless the problem persisted from a check valve ? Most common sense approach would be that there could be a small hole in the lines, or a oring , or the rubbers in the piston calipers . Dirt can set in on the side of the pistons, and like Jaxson stated , a worn pad can cause the piston to "pop" out further and cause a leak.
 

Dirt_Dad

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~TABASCO~ said:
Just as a safety side note:

I've been seeing many more rear disc out of thickness spec. Its very misleading by looking at the rear disc. I've been ordering several at a time for customers. The disc thickness limit is 4.5mm, I've seen several below 4.... Check the rear pads as well, the inside tends to wear more than the out side, DONT just look at the out side pad... ::024::
Just checked. Mine are at 4.29mm. Disc has some pretty good waves formed on it, too. Looks like I'm ordering a new disc.

Any idea what side Torx bit I need to order? I didn't check, but I suspect my security torx bits are not the right tool for the job.

Thanks, TABASCO.
 

Don in Lodi

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Derekj said:
I would think that the abs works both front and rear brakes. Why would only the rear be affected , unless the problem persisted from a check valve ? Most common sense approach would be that there could be a small hole in the lines, or a oring , or the rubbers in the piston calipers . Dirt can set in on the side of the pistons, and like Jaxson stated , a worn pad can cause the piston to "pop" out further and cause a leak.
The system is a half and half thing. If the rear sensor ring tells the system there is slippage, it only pulses the rear. Same for slippage sensed only in front, it won't pulse the rear. So, yes, it does work both the front and rear brakes, but not necessarily at the same time. It seems to be an internal leak of some sort, maybe a solenoid going hyperactive causing the cavitation/aeration people are seeing. The air is not getting in from outside, as noted, it would trade places with fluid if that was happening. The rise in fluid level noted could be air displacement. Cavitation is really the only hydraulic phenomenon I can think of that will 'magically' create air in a closed system.
 

ridefire

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I went for a quick run this morning only to find I had no rear brakes , no resistance to bottom out lever, they worked fine yesterday , came home bled them and still nothing . I'll be calling tomorrow to get the abs pump checked at the dealer , Glad I have YES coverage.
 

Kevhunts

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ridefire said:
I went for a quick run this morning only to find I had no rear brakes , no resistance to bottom out lever, they worked fine yesterday , came home bled them and still nothing . I'll be calling tomorrow to get the abs pump checked at the dealer , Glad I have YES coverage.
There are 2 tests you can perform on the ABS unit in your garage. They are found in the shop manual and just require a jumper on the ABS connector under the seat. (sky blue to black)
 

carrot

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my rear brake also went out the rear pedal bottoms out with no pressure but did notice when i pull the front brake lever the rear pedal gets pressure i was going to try bleeding it first but now i have a biger problem the timing chain jump ::007:: so now im dealing with that
 

limey

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Mzee said:
It seems I have this very problem? How did this story end?
My ABS unit was replaced under warrenty.
 

carrot

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so today i got the timing chain back in time and a new tensioner installed. so decided to try bleeding the rear brake didn't seem to have any effect i already had a master cylinder repair kit in my parts box so decided to go ahead and try rebuilding it now i got rear brake and i can feel the abs working but the pedal seems to still have to much travel so im going and try bleeding it again to see if it helps.
 

superjet

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Good afternoon,
I have a 2012 ST with around 30K on it and I think the ABS Unit took a crap yesterday. Kevhunts suggest there is a test for this in the manual. I don't have a manual, so could someone post the tests for me?
This isn't very good news if the unit is out. :-[
 
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