Power restriction in first 3 gears now lifted

B

Bundu

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RED CAT said:
...... I'm thinking a simple T connect to the(black) power wire on the bike to the black on the switch and same with the other wire, simply a T connect. That way I can simple switch between the 3 Modes on the fly. :-[
on my bike the clutch wires are Black/yellow and Blue/yellow - you need to connect your switch wires over these two wires
 

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markjenn

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Maybe this has been said, but ideally, I think you want to connect you new switch in parallel. That is, tap into the two wires going to the clutch, but not disconnect the clutch switch. That way, when you close your new switch it will override the clutch switch, but when you turn it off, it will return to stock condition with the clutch switch still working.

I just received one of the Tusk on/off handlebar switches and am about to wire it up.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/160/956/-/25858/Tusk-Universal-On-Off-Switch

I'm in agreement that this mod makes the bike a bit snatchy down low and its nice to be able to turn it off in squirrely off-road conditions.

- Mark
 

Waspworks

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I did the jumper cable thing today and I love it.
I really am quite surprised at the difference... The TCS light seams to be working overtime at the moment though >:D

I'll be leaving my mod in full time.

Greg.
 

markjenn

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Sup-Ten said:
Wonder if this mod will have an effect on the final drive long term?
I'd think "none". There has been speculation that this 1st-3rd power reduction was made to reduce final drive stress for longevity, but I find this pretty far-fetched.

- Mark
 

Dallara

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markjenn said:
I'd think "none". There has been speculation that this 1st-3rd power reduction was made to reduce final drive stress for longevity, but I find this pretty far-fetched.

- Mark

Yeah, I find it pretty far-fetched, too... Especially since the same basic final drive is used on the V-Max and FJR1300. Somehow I think if those two bikes, and some of the folks who ride V-max's, can't frag the final drive design, etc. then there's not much chance the Super Tenere can. 8)

Dallara



~
 

Karson

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Especially since there's probably only a fraction of the owners who remember to disengage TC before heading out. There's times a block down the road that I catch myself and just shrug it off and keep riding. Unless you're hell-bent on riding wheelies or power breaking the snot out of your bike, TC keeps your power to the rear wheel in check. Also, if that's your intent, you probably shouldn't be on an S10 in the first place ;o)

I only ride with the clutch jumper solo as I find it too snappy for two-up touring...Might get the on-off switch from Rocky Mountain this week, but I'm starting to get farkles collecting dust since I'd rather be riding than farkling if possible ::014:: ::014::
 

GrahamD

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Dallara said:
Somehow I think if those two bikes, and some of the folks who ride V-max's, can't frag the final drive design, etc. then there's not much chance the Super Tenere can. 8)
Surely you jest!! ;D

And sorry for calling you shirly
 

AlsoRan

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Bundu said:
OK, let me try:
Once you've removed the top and bottom right fairing, your bike should look like fig.1
Slide all the relays off their mounts and move them away till you see the plastic cover that is in front of the ECU as in fig 2 (also see new fig in this post)
Remove the three bolts indicated in fig. 2 and take care with bottom right nut, as it's bolt is on the inside and reachable, so you can hold it with one finger whilst removing the outside nut.
When the ECU cover plate has been removed, unplug the 2 multi-wire plugs at left bottom of ECU and remove ECU

Hope that helps?
I'm removing the ECU to send it out. Has anybody had problems with leaving the battery disconnect for a few days?

Thanks for the help...
 

Karson

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I've left mine disconnected for longer than the turn around you'll have with your ECU flash. Other than needing to reset your clock, you'll be ready to go once you button her up.
 

Dallara

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AlsoRan said:
I'm removing the ECU to send it out. Has anybody had problems with leaving the battery disconnect for a few days?

Thanks for the help...

Mine was disconnected for about four or five days when I had my ECUnleashed re-flash done (I drove it up to AF-1 Racing on my way back from sort of a vacation three-day weekend), and like Karson said, other than re-setting the clock no problems at all. Pull the ECU, have the re-flash, put it back in and button everything up and ride. ::26::

That's it! :)

Dallara



~
 

AlsoRan

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Dallara said:
Mine was disconnected for about four or five days when I had my ECUnleashed re-flash done (I drove it up to AF-1 Racing on my way back from sort of a vacation three-day weekend), and like Karson said, other than re-setting the clock no problems at all. Pull the ECU, have the re-flash, put it back in and button everything up and ride. ::26::

That's it! :)

Dallara



~
Ok - thanks for the quick reply everyone! Was nervous I would loose a bunch of settings.
 

AlsoRan

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Dallara said:
"Settings" for what exactly?

Dallara


~
No sure what I could disrupt with the battery disconnect. I was worried since I'm not too experienced with electrical stuff.

Thanks again for the help.
 

Tremor38

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AlsoRan said:
No sure what I could disrupt with the battery disconnect. I was worried since I'm not too experienced with electrical stuff.

Thanks again for the help.
No worrys, AlsoRan. Just make sure you know how to set the time on your clock. Other than that, no settings will change.
 

AlsoRan

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Tenerator12 said:
No worrys, AlsoRan. Just make sure you know how to set the time on your clock. Other than that, no settings will change.
Thanks again everyone. Got the clock set. But the best of all is now this bike runs awesome, even with lousy CA gas!
 

Tremor38

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Good ta hear! ::26:: I run almost exlusively in S mode with my reflash. Love that 'connected' feel. ::001::
 
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