Oil Change

[colorider]

I mark a clear plastic glass using a measuring cup and water. Since I want to pour 3.6 quarts and I have a 4 quart container, I remove .4 of a quart or 12.8 ounces. So I mark the plastic glass for 12.8 ounces and pour that much out of the 4 quart container leaving 3.6 quarts. Now I pour the 3.6 quarts in the engine. I keep the .4 of a quart just in case.

Pretty much what I do, except I simply use an empty 1 qt. oil container to measure off the .4 qt.

 

[EricV]

A question for the oil gurus. I've heard about people using Rotella synthetic for diesel engines because the lack of friction reducers makes it compatible with a wet clutch. We don't have that on base, but I noticed Mobile 1 for turbo diesels and was wondering if that would work OK??

One of the reasons many, (including me), like the Rotella T-6 synthetic is the price. $24 for a gallon, often less on sale at Autozone.

That said, here are the specs for Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil 5W-40:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/ SM/SL/SJ
ACEA E7
Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-3

Here are the specs for Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, C4, SM, SL, SH; ACEA E9; Caterpillar
ECF-3, ECF-2; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218; Ford WSS
M2C171-E; JASO DH2, MA; Mack EO-0 Premium Plus; MAN 3275;
MB Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4

Here are the specs from the Yamaha Owner's Manual, (page 9-1), for the Super Tenere:
Recommended engine oil grade: API Services SG type or higher, JASO standard MA.

From reading the specs, I'm certain Rotella meets and exceeds the Yamaha recommended specs. I'm not sure about the Mobile 1, but if I understand the API ratings, it does exceed SG type specs, which would suggest it is acceptable. Both oils share many of the same ratings. API changed their specs, removing motorcycle wet clutch applications from their descriptors some time back. :-[

Good Wiki HERE

Note that API=American Petroleum Institute and JASO=Japanese Automotive Standards Organization, and who built our bikes.

 

[Dingo]

Is the bike supposed on the center stand or side stand for oil draining? (dont have my manual in front of me).

Does it make a difference? (would need to know if more oil is drained from the secondary reservoir when on center or side stand)

 

[tomatocity]

Is the bike supposed on the center stand or side stand for oil draining? (dont have my manual in front of me).

Does it make a difference? (would need to know if more oil is drained from the secondary reservoir when on center or side stand)

I don't know if it makes a difference but I drain the oil on the side stand and fill it on the center stand. I also drain the oil over night. Bit anal but works for me. Buying a Harbor Freight motorcycle stand this week.

 

[galaksija]

Any of you using Motul 7100?

I put Motul 7100 and looks like bike loves it. Much smoother shifting

 

[sail2xxs]

I start the oil draining process on the centerstand, and remove the forward drain plug first, then rear, then filter. After that, it goes on the sidestand for further draining. I tilt the bike to the right several times, and have found that more oil comes out that way. For filling, I fill the new oil filter with oil (Rotella T) before installation, then measure 3.4L, and fill on the sidestand - seems to go quicker. Final oil level check is on the centerstand.

Chris

 

[Scoobynut]

Question for everyone: I changed my oil this week, but not the filter. I drained on the side stand, then after a while moved the bike upright and then to the right (did this a couple of different times), all told it was probably in 'drain' mode for a good 1-1/2 hours. I figured it would take about 3.4 quarts, so put that amount in, let it run 5 minutes, and -- barely showed in the sight glass. Long story short, added another .2 quarts, started it up, let it run, shut it down, was halfway up the sight glass. Thought I better leave well enough alone, later went for a ride, and sight glass completely covered when I checked. Just out of curiousity, I start the bike again a while later, shut it off after about 5 mins. and it shows 1/2 way up the sight glass, just as it did before going for a ride.

So considering that last sentence, what do you think? Should I extract some oil, considering I added 3.6 altogether, without a filter change? Is the .2 qt. extra nothing to worry about with this dry-sump system? All opinions, thoughts, ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

[markjenn]

So considering that last sentence, what do you think? Should I extract some oil, considering I added 3.6 altogether, without a filter change? Is the .2 qt. extra nothing to worry about with this dry-sump system? All opinions, thoughts, ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.

You're close enough. The variability you're getting may be just the oil warming up or possibly just normal variation associated with temps, shutdown sequence, whether you left the bike on the side stand a bit to drain differently, etc. A number of us are noting that it takes a little over spec if you do a thorough draining.

As long as you have oil more/less showing the sight glass, I wouldn't worry about it.

- Mark

 

[Scoobynut]

You're close enough. The variability you're getting may be just the oil warming up or possibly just normal variation associated with temps, shutdown sequence, whether you left the bike on the side stand a bit to drain differently, etc. A number of us are noting that it takes a little over spec if you do a thorough draining.

As long as you have oil more/less showing the sight glass, I wouldn't worry about it.

- Mark

Thanks, Mark. I've read enough about the mysteries of the sight glass to not be too worried about it, but just wanted a little reassurance, as my last change was with a filter (I put oil in filter before install) and that change was also 3.6 quarts. Thanks again!

 

[mcbrien]

I have always believed the "jugs" of oil that you can get at a better price doesn't have the
correct amount of oil in them .Any way I found that 1 yamaha oil filter and 1 jug of yamalube
fills my bike perfectly . No measuring , no fuss . When I checked my air filter for dirt there
was no excessive oil in the box . There was a little bit of oil in the clear catch tube on
bottom of air box . My dealer says they change rear drive oil at every oil change . Whataya think ?

 

[markjenn]

My dealer says they change rear drive oil at every oil change . Whataya think ?

I suspect Yamaha's 16K mile recommendation is already fairly conservative (similar applications in cars are often "life of the vehicle"), but OTOH, it won't hurt a thing and the incremental cost (presumably) is small. My general take is that our machines have a fairly broad range of maintenance regimens that can be justified, depending on how much you want to trade off service costs vs. longevity.

It certainly helps the dealer's bottom line, of course.

- Mark

 

[tomatocity]

I have always believed the "jugs" of oil that you can get at a better price doesn't have the
correct amount of oil in them .Any way I found that 1 yamaha oil filter and 1 jug of yamalube
fills my bike perfectly . No measuring , no fuss . When I checked my air filter for dirt there
was no excessive oil in the box . There was a little bit of oil in the clear catch tube on
bottom of air box . My dealer says they change rear drive oil at every oil change . Whataya think ?

Wow, that is 10% more than the 128 ounces required.

I can see checking final drive fluid every oil change and changing every 16,000 miles. Some might find this excessive and they might be correct.

 

[mcbrien]

Wow, that is 10% more than the 128 ounces required.

I can see checking final drive fluid every oil change and changing every 16,000 miles. Some might find this excessive and they might be correct.

It might be if those jugs were accurate . I get more oil out of 4 1quart containers than I get out of a 4 quart jug .

 

[tomatocity]

It might be if those jugs were accurate . I get more oil out of 4 1quart containers than I get out of a 4 quart jug .

12.8 ounces is the difference for a gallon. That would be 3.2 ounces per quart.

 

[coastie]

The only benefit of changing the FD oil every oil change is your piece of mind. Otherwise with todays synthetic oils its not not necessary, you would probably be fine going 32k before changes. Just open up the fill hole and shine a flashlight to check level and also make sure your not finding metal contamination and you are good to go for 16k.
::021::

 

[sail2xxs]

I'm using the Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for my final drive, and just changed it for the 3rd time at 41k miles. I'm not sure if it is a matter of use (breather gets submerged every now and then on water crossings) but it seemed plenty dirty - this was after 20k.

Chris

 

[jajpko]

I'm using the Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for my final drive, and just changed it for the 3rd time at 41k miles. I'm not sure if it is a matter of use (breather gets submerged every now and then on water crossings) but it seemed plenty dirty - this was after 20k.

Chris

Did it have a lot of metal in it, or was the oil just dark?

 

[GM4X4]

Some crappy pictures of the FD oil (Mobil 1 75w90) In for only for 2500KM. No metal sparking just dark/gray? Trying to get Amsoil 75w90 soon...

 

[jajpko]

Some crappy pictures of the FD oil (Mobil 1 75w90) In for only for 2500KM. No metal sparking just dark/gray? Trying to get Amsoil 75w90 soon...

Those are some crappy pics.. ::025::
From what I can tell the oil is still translucent and does not look bad to me.. I have had some changes come out like that and some much lighter.

 

[GM4X4]

Those are some crappy pics.. ::025::
From what I can tell the oil is still translucent and does not look bad to me.. I have had some changes come out like that and some much lighter.

Good to hear that the oil is not to to bad... Next time I'll try and get some quality pictures ::008::