New Tenere' handle bars

Mikef5000

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20valves said:
Ok, wtfpete, set your bike up however you please but don't keep making the mistake that your personal setup is the best. And stop claiming that the bike is faulty because it's not set up perfectly for your candy ass. You've got about 5 minutes on the bike and we've had them for nearly a year. I've got about 10K miles on mine and I'm tired of hearing your whiney ass bitch about what is a great bike. So please, you f*%king tool, do what you gotta do, but STFU! ::010::
I'm pretty much exactly with this guy. Everyone here is doing little things here and there (some bigger things if they so desire) to tweak the bike for them. Why is it that you, WFO, are the only one claiming the bike sucks because you need to tweak it to you? Frankly, in my 10 years of being on numerous forums, I've never heard anyone as self-centered. I wish you the best of luck convincing a manufacturer to make a bike specifically for you, despite what the mass market/average buyer might want.

The stock handlebars aren't my favorite of all the bikes I've owned, but you know what, they still work just fine for me. I've done everything from 200 miles of off-roading in a day, to 800 miles of touring in a day. Never in a million years would I decide to spend $350+ on new bars. But that's me, and we are different people.
 

wfopete

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Gee, you spent all that money on your pretty little street bike to try & ride on some dirt, what's a lilttle chump change for getting one thing right on the bike gonna hurt? Can't blame you though, you probably ran out of money from buying those $400 bash plates that tear holes in the motor when you hit a little bump in the road. 8)

You guys need to step it up. ::015::
 

Combo

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wfopete said:
Gee, you spent all that money on your pretty little street bike to try & ride on some dirt, what's a lilttle chump change for getting one thing right on the bike gonna hurt? Can't blame you though, you probably ran out of money from buying those $400 bash plates that tear holes in the motor when you hit a little bump in the road. 8)

You guys need to step it up. ::015::
well.........
 

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20valves

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Hey fellas, kind of a random thread hijack here, but have any of you used the ignore feature on this board? It works great! ::008::

Ok, now, back on track. So, yeah, I get along with most things on the bike but it seems there's new stuff every day on the aftermarket for those that want to modify. 8)
 

Combo

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20valves said:
Hey fellas, kind of a random thread hijack here, but have any of you used the ignore feature on this board? It works great! ::008::

Ok, now, back on track. So, yeah, I get along with most things on the bike but it seems there's new stuff every day on the aftermarket for those that want to modify. 8)
Agreed. ::008::

You are also right about all kinds of new aftermarket stuff coming out almost every day. I have mine about like I like it now. I went to a 1" rise on the bars and rotated them up just a tad. That made my elbows out more and re-leaved my thumb pressure from the inside of the bars standing or not. Much better and feels normal now. :)
 

Bullett

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markjenn said:
I notice the inside of my thumbs (right next to the big bone at the base of the thumb) is sore after a day's riding. To alleviate this pain, I sometimes find myself late in the day riding with my thumbs resting on the switchgear rather than wrapped underneath the grip. This implies to me that the handlebars are not at quite the right angle, but I'm unclear what change to make. Anybody else had this problem and found a better bar bend?

- Mark
I get that too! I thought my thumbs were gonna fall off riding home from the Yukon Rally. Feels like tendinitis, but mainly in my left thumb. I thought it might be related to the reach to the turn signal switch (I have small hands).
 

phplemel

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Just before the Whitehorse Rally and with 19000km on the bike I felt I needed to finally change the bars
Took that long of onroad-offroad 1000km days 8-15hr day rides to think I could improve it.
My thumbs & pinkie finger pads were also going numb.
i am a certified bicycle fit tech, so used that knowledge to measure wrist angles, elbow drop & reach
decided on a Pro-Taper Contour-less sweep angle & lower drop at bar ends
with these & the Rox 3/4up-3/4 back risers, it was a HUGE difference, even though you have to measure to tell the difference
Just posting this to say that SMALL changes can make a big difference in comfort & technical handling
BTW the ProTaper was not a plug & play I had to machine the bar wgts, make new expander nuts & grind off the switch positioning pins, easy for me but I have a large shop full of equip. still only cost me $60 :p
 

markjenn

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phplemel said:
BTW the ProTaper was not a plug & play I had to machine the bar wgts, make new expander nuts & grind off the switch positioning pins, easy for me but I have a large shop full of equip. still only cost me $60 :p
Because the wall thickness of the alum pro-taper bars is thicker at the grip end, right? Been down this road before. Been thinking I might try and find a steel pro-taper type bar although still unsure about the bend.

Do you have heated grips by any chance? I've had some bad experiences with lack of heat on alum bars due to the much higher heat conductivity of alum, although the Yamaha grips have plenty of power so maybe not a problem with these.

- Mark
 

tomatocity

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markjenn said:
Because the wall thickness of the alum pro-taper bars is thicker at the grip end, right? Been down this road before. Been thinking I might try and find a steel pro-taper type bar although still unsure about the bend.

Do you have heated grips by any chance? I've had some bad experiences with lack of heat on alum bars due to the much higher heat conductivity of alum, although the Yamaha grips have plenty of power so maybe not a problem with these.

- Mark
MSR makes the bar end bolts for aluminum handlebars. That is what I am using for my ProTaper handlebars.
 

tpak

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Bullett said:
I get that too! I thought my thumbs were gonna fall off riding home from the Yukon Rally. Feels like tendinitis, but mainly in my left thumb. I thought it might be related to the reach to the turn signal switch (I have small hands).
I had the same thing on my Vstrom along with a pinching feeling that could be quite painful. Going to a bar with less sweep and rox up and back solved it. The change in sweep fixed any wrist hand position issues and the pinching between the shoulders (for me - ymmv). The up and back allowed me to fiddle the position so my posture was a bit better.

On the S10 I am feeling it in my wrists again but the PO installed one inch risers and just given the different geometries of the cockpit I think I will probably be OK with just a bar change. I'm giving it another week or two and some longer rides and then will change the bar.
 

Bullett

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After comparing the rider position on the ST with the RT, I rotated the bars on the ST forward a bit. When I installed the risers, I rolled the bars rearward, and I think that may have made it more difficult for me to reach the turn signal controls. I will try this new position and see how it goes.
 

jajpko

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Bullett said:
After comparing the rider position on the ST with the RT, I rotated the bars on the ST forward a bit. When I installed the risers, I rolled the bars rearward, and I think that may have made it more difficult for me to reach the turn signal controls. I will try this new position and see how it goes.
That's pretty much what I had to do. I have the two inch risers and rolled them back and the bars up. That seems to work the best for me.
 

Dallara

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~

The more I look at it, and read about, the more I am convinced there is not only a common problem here, but also a common solution.

A few years I had a 2002 BMW R1150R, and oddly enough it had a very similar stock handlebar bend. It was a bit narrower, but the sweep, rise, etc. were much the same. And I had the same thumb-numbing, hand-tingling, and middle-of-the-back pain reported here and in other thread. About the time I got really tired of it (2004) on lots of BMW forums, as well as ADVrider, there was a guy named Ricardo Kuhn, and he had a web presence at his site - Moto Macondo. He was sort of a self-taught ergonomic guru, but also a hell of a machinist, and though he was a bit eccentric he did have a lot of followers for a product he called "Ricky Bars". He made these for only R1150R's and R1150G/S's. Essentially it was a set of beautifully machined riser/bar-backs and cut-down set of Renthal MX bars. It was best to talk with him on the phone, but he also exchanged e-mails, and after I talked with a few times I decided to spring for a set of "Ricky Bars"...

In a nutshell it was the best single accessory/farkle I have ever put on a motorcycle, and one of the most amazing experiences seeing how what he had been preaching to me on the phone was *EXACTLY* right. Why? Because it completely transformed that motorcycle. It went from a bike that would drive me nuts any day I spent more than 200 miles in the saddle, to one that literally I could ride endlessly without discomfort or fatigue. I swear it even handled better (as he said it would). I know a lot reading this may think I'm exaggerating, but I assure you it was true - at least for me.

Unfortunately, by his own admission and proclamation , Ricardo was not the best businessman, and sadly he finally ceased producing the "Ricky Bar" kits. If any of you folks were fooling with R and G/S Beemers at the time you probably saw many a rider lamenting the demise of "Ricky Bars" - because they worked. I wish he was still around making bar kits, as he not only made the gorgeous riser/bar-back clamps and cut the Renthal MX bars to fit you, but also made the proper inserts for inside the bars to use the bar-end weights, a Throttlemeister, etc. And he could ask you a number of questions and know which bend bar you needed and how wide it needed to be.

How does all this relate to the problems some of us are having with our S-10's? Well, some of the basic information Ricardo relayed to me seems to be very applicable here. He was adamant that most all street bike bars had too much sweep back, and while this seems to feel great on the showroom floor it is not a natural position for one's wrists or back muscles between one's shoulder blades. That's why all the bars he used to cut-down were MX bars, all having very little sweep. He also believed the bars should neither angle up or down much, if any, from level. A bit of droop was OK, and for some people even a bit of up-tilt. For most, though a near level bar at the grips was best. A lot of street bike bars he also thought were too narrow. The MX bars he used were very wide, so he had to cut them down, but most often they still ended up wider than the bike's original bars.

Now the Super Tenere's bars are plenty wide enough. In fact, I think Ricardo would have had most cut them down about a half-inch to an inch shorter. But I know Ricardo would have said the S-10's bars had way, way too much sweep. *WAY* too much, and with too much down-droop at the ends, too, along with being a bit too low overall, also.

Fortunately a good friend has my old BMW R1150R, complete with those precious "Ricky Bars" (and he loves 'em, too), and I've been able to get another good look at 'em, so I know where I'm going... I'm shooting for a bar with about a 60-65mm sweep (stock is approx. a 142mm sweep), about 95-100mm high (stock is approx. 82mm), and about 780-800mm wide (stock is approx. 820mm). I think a handlebar with those dimensions, used with the fixed Rox Riser bar-backs I have, will just about match what Ricardo would have recommended and should work good for me. Hopefully some of this data and those dimensions will help some of you, too.

Now all I have to do is solve the problem of using the stock handguards, bar-ends, and Kaoko or (name of prototype redacted for now... ;) ) cruise control, etc. Either that or I am going to have to change to some other handguards, bar-ends, etc.

Hope some of this rambling helps others... ::26::

Dallara



~
 

tpak

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Dallara - I think you are spot on. Here is a link to the google doc version of a spreadsheet I put together based on Rocky Mtn ATV's list of bars. This way you can sort across brands/etc. I added the S10 stock bars in there and based the measurements off of the chart that Wasp published. All lengths are in inches as that is what RMATV had. The one missing measurement is control plane size. If there are missing bar brands and models if people email me the specifics i will add them. I'd also add a control plane column if available.

https://docs.google.com/a/tirpak.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ai97B6meCngVdFlvT0k0cmFBdHhYYngtSGlncXVuV0E&pli=1#gid=0
 

phplemel

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Great post Dallara. This is exactly what I found & hopefully cured using my bicycle fit knowledge.
I also agree that it seems to be a common problem , with a common solution
 

dcstrom

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Thank Dallara, great post and confirms that I am headed in the right direction... (I have to wonder sometimes!)

I have a pair of Moose Cr-hi bars, which just about meet the specs you're talking about
PULLBACK (mm) - 63
WIDTH - 800
RISE - 50
BASE WIDTH - 135

They are too low though, so added the Rox 2" rotating riser. This works WITHOUT having to extend brake lines because the bars are flatter than stock.

What I've ended up with is a bar that's .5" further back, .5" higher than stock, but narrower and much less sweep. Not perfect yet, but getting closer. Maybe they could be a tad higher, but that's not going to be possible with these bars - and also not possible without the added expense of changing brake lines. I think I'll live with it for now.

Not an expensive change either, $30 for bars and $95 for the Rox.

Tpak - thanks for the list! I believe these Moose bars aren't there.




 

wfopete

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Rox Risers are a great way to experiment and discover new position options and adjust as needed without going through a lot of handlebars. Check some of the others sites like Advrider.com and you can save a few bucks with a used set rather than go with new. Rox Risers also come in a rubber mount to help lessen the vibs.
 

tpak

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dcstrom said:
Tpak - thanks for the list! I believe these Moose bars aren't there.
I will add the Moose and take a look at RMATV again and see if there are others. Someone showed an option from Easton but I don't know where to get those.

In metric the stock measurements from Wasp are:

820mm wide
82mm rise
142mm sweep
247mm control plane

The control plane becomes important - I had ProTaper EVO on my Vstrom and the control plane was so small the mirrors were pretty much on the bend.

I will update later tonight and provide the google doc as well as a downloadable excel file for those that have asked for it. If people have control plane measurements for these bars send 'em over and I will add - same for other bars/bends/brands.
 

Dallara

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Just an FYI...

You guys might find these bars interesting: http://trailtech.net/atv_x-bars.html

I may be trying a set of their 95mm or 107mm rise bars, and they have the 225mm minimum necessary for all the controls (remember to take a look under your stock Yamaha OEM bar end weights, and you'll see the grip on the left side and the throttle-tube on the right overhang the end of the handlebar about a 12.5mm).

I've been waiting to hear back from Cole at Fasst about their Flex bars for the Super Tenere (which will have a 62mm sweep and the 225+mm necessary for the controls, too), but they seem to continued to be delayed.

Hope this helps!

Dallara



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