No fan = temp rise = overheating = overflow.
Mr. Bertrand's recommendations are what I would start with. And then put 12v directly to the fan.
LOST A LOT OF COOLANT PARKED UP IN LAY BYE any ideas
- Thread starter bimota
- Start date
Mr. Bertrand's recommendations are what I would start with. And then put 12v directly to the fan.
thughes317
Well-Known Member
I concur. If the fuse is good and fan works when wired directly.......I'll bet a cold beer that the relay shit the bed. ($30 fix....fingers crossed for ya!)
can i ask where the relay is if you know
rob
rob
Message TABASCO would be the easiest way. It's what "I" would do.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Yes, there is a coolant temp sensor located to the right of the thermostat cover between the throttle bodies. Though if you're seeing a coolant temp reading on the gauge cluster, that would indicated it's working well enough.
page 8-29 in the 2014-2015 FSM, (sorry, no longer have a '12 manual), offers some diagnostic checks. Not sure if things are the same for the '12, but there is a radiator fan fuse, so check that if you haven't yet. Sounds like you believe the relay is ok and you checked the fan itself already, (applied 12v and it worked?), so that leaves the coolant temp sensor, wiring and the ECU. Usually it's the cheap and easy stuff.
If you haven't done so yet, check the fuse for the radiator fan motor. (I assume the bike runs fine otherwise, if not, check the fuel injection main and ignition fuses as well).
The FSM suggests checking the main switch, fan motor and fan motor relay next. Note that although the relays appear to be the same, at least for the 2014/2015, they are not and require different test processes. They fan relay is shown as fairly standard, but with different pins being the output than other relays of the same physical configuration. Swapping relays might not be an adequate test. (FWIW, the headlight relay appears to be the same configuration.)
Then pull the air box so you can get to the coolant temp sensor. Checking the coolant temp sensor requires removing it and immersing it in water of different temps, then checking the resistance across the pins with a DMM. 2320-2590 ohms at 20C and 310-326 ohms at 80C are the two tests listed. Don't get the terminals wet! The torque for the coolant temp sensor is 18 Nm (1.8 m-kg, 13 ft/lbs)
Hope this helps. As an aside, if you applied 12v to the fan and it seems to operate normally with brisk rotation, checked the fan motor fuse and tested it with a DMM for continuity, (a fuse that looks good can still be bad sometimes), I would test the relay before digging further, especially if you are still seeing apparently good temp readings on the dash read out.
Apply 12v and ground to the upper pins in the T shaped connector of the relay, look for continuity in the two pins in the leg of the T. With the T shape, + is shown as upper left with - as upper right. Tester + probe as bottom of the T leg and tester - probe as next up from the bottom of the T.
Black 1012 Super Tenere 109k (sold)
Matte Black 2015 Super Tenere 46k (sold)
page 8-29 in the 2014-2015 FSM, (sorry, no longer have a '12 manual), offers some diagnostic checks. Not sure if things are the same for the '12, but there is a radiator fan fuse, so check that if you haven't yet. Sounds like you believe the relay is ok and you checked the fan itself already, (applied 12v and it worked?), so that leaves the coolant temp sensor, wiring and the ECU. Usually it's the cheap and easy stuff.
If you haven't done so yet, check the fuse for the radiator fan motor. (I assume the bike runs fine otherwise, if not, check the fuel injection main and ignition fuses as well).
The FSM suggests checking the main switch, fan motor and fan motor relay next. Note that although the relays appear to be the same, at least for the 2014/2015, they are not and require different test processes. They fan relay is shown as fairly standard, but with different pins being the output than other relays of the same physical configuration. Swapping relays might not be an adequate test. (FWIW, the headlight relay appears to be the same configuration.)
Then pull the air box so you can get to the coolant temp sensor. Checking the coolant temp sensor requires removing it and immersing it in water of different temps, then checking the resistance across the pins with a DMM. 2320-2590 ohms at 20C and 310-326 ohms at 80C are the two tests listed. Don't get the terminals wet! The torque for the coolant temp sensor is 18 Nm (1.8 m-kg, 13 ft/lbs)
Hope this helps. As an aside, if you applied 12v to the fan and it seems to operate normally with brisk rotation, checked the fan motor fuse and tested it with a DMM for continuity, (a fuse that looks good can still be bad sometimes), I would test the relay before digging further, especially if you are still seeing apparently good temp readings on the dash read out.
Apply 12v and ground to the upper pins in the T shaped connector of the relay, look for continuity in the two pins in the leg of the T. With the T shape, + is shown as upper left with - as upper right. Tester + probe as bottom of the T leg and tester - probe as next up from the bottom of the T.
Black 1012 Super Tenere 109k (sold)
Matte Black 2015 Super Tenere 46k (sold)
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
I copied and pasted this from a post. Search is your friend. I believe Eric was the author. Thanks Eric.
Saint rob
Well-Known Member
I fitted an FJR fan to my 1st S10 so they deffo fit, I did have to change the wiring connection though but that isn’t difficult. I’m pretty sure I have a spare one in the man cave too as I bought a pair from the US and only used one
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
On the contrary, the scenario you describe (overheating and overflowing when stationary) is exactly what will happen if the fan has failed. They are absolutely related.
You don’t actually need the fan when the bike is underway as the movement of the bike will push plenty of air through the radiator. This is obviously not the case when stopped or moving very slowly.
Fix the fan not activating and you’ll fix the overheating.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
lund
Well-Known Member
Like said, if your getting a red light, over heat warning and temperature readings in your gauge cluster then your sensors are likely just fine.
Go straight to the fan and hook up direct.
As said, fan while riding generally will not come on but while stationary and idling it will come on to flow air through the rad. About 104deg. If it does not it will do as you described.
Go straight to the fan and hook up direct.
As said, fan while riding generally will not come on but while stationary and idling it will come on to flow air through the rad. About 104deg. If it does not it will do as you described.
how can you tell what the temp reading is on a gen 1 clock, i thought the top left readind is air temp not bike or am i looking at something wrong
rob
rob
might need that rob, if you will possibly sell if i can,t sort something i heard on facebook as well the MT09 fan is a direct replacement
rob
hi guys,
if i take the fan off easy enough i have a spare 12v battery to but if the fan is in my hand on the bench how do i connect it to the battery bare in ming it has a tiny plug at the end not to large loose cables any hints
rob
if i take the fan off easy enough i have a spare 12v battery to but if the fan is in my hand on the bench how do i connect it to the battery bare in ming it has a tiny plug at the end not to large loose cables any hints
rob
sheikyerbooty
Well-Known Member
Cooling fan has stopped Working
Hi Can anybody help, on my Tenere the Cooling fan has stopped working, have checked the Fan which is working fine and swapped relays and this makes no difference, just wondering if there is a temperature sensor to activate the fan within the radiator. Thanks Tony
yamahasupertenere.com
OK,
probably fixed my issue, today, lifted the tank up at an agle undone the air box lifted it luckly enough not to loose the pipe off the bottom
found the jack plug for the fan, needed to get the airbox lifted to get at it, pulled apart cleaned the blades inside and sprayed contact cleaner in there soaked it, put the plug back together left the rest as is, fired the bike up on the drive again and put the temp on the gen 1 dash board, so its running away and i thought no its still a issue temp hit 114 C and bang the fan kicked in running nice
so i would like to think that solved it it must of been as the fan was not running standing in the laybaye it over heated and lost the coolant out of the overflow
i,m not looking any further now unless something happens but can,t see it now
rob
probably fixed my issue, today, lifted the tank up at an agle undone the air box lifted it luckly enough not to loose the pipe off the bottom
found the jack plug for the fan, needed to get the airbox lifted to get at it, pulled apart cleaned the blades inside and sprayed contact cleaner in there soaked it, put the plug back together left the rest as is, fired the bike up on the drive again and put the temp on the gen 1 dash board, so its running away and i thought no its still a issue temp hit 114 C and bang the fan kicked in running nice
so i would like to think that solved it it must of been as the fan was not running standing in the laybaye it over heated and lost the coolant out of the overflow
i,m not looking any further now unless something happens but can,t see it now
rob
before i put it all back together, this fan plug is a pig to get to, even tho i,ve cleaned it up and fan working now, how can i protect this plug from failing early again, can you put grease inside the plug and push the 2 parts together to keep the weather out even then covering in electric tape as well, any thoughts before i re assemble
rob
rob
I believe you want some dielectric grease Rob. As usual i stand to be corrected.
lund
Well-Known Member
Yes, use dielectric grease and not regular grease.
114deg, wow that seems high. Thats is almost 240degF, wonder if that is normal for that model or if the relay is sticking?
All the ones I have seen activate the fan at about 104deg about 220degF.
114deg, wow that seems high. Thats is almost 240degF, wonder if that is normal for that model or if the relay is sticking?
All the ones I have seen activate the fan at about 104deg about 220degF.
its been fashed tho so don,t know its coming on at 113 114
rob
rob
anybody know where the relay is please