LOST A LOT OF COOLANT PARKED UP IN LAY BYE any ideas

scott123007

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I'll start by saying I'm one of those idiots, 'cuz I've always coated my positive batter post, bulb sockets on my Jeep, etc. But your statement kinda contradicts itself. So, it doesn't help conduction? But it's good for electrical connectors? How can it be both? To me that means it doesn't help the metal-to-metal contact, but it protects the metal-to-metal contact? So, if he cleans the contacts, then covers them in dielectric grease, it should protect the contact(s)? It's never let me down, and I've never had corrosion. And Vaseline has been used in a pinch.

Yes . . . . no. . . . maybe?
Wasn't trying to start an internet war. The problem with being an ex crew chief on a motorcycle race team is we were taught in absolutes. Among them were to never use dielectric grease directly on electrical connections. There are proper "conducting" greases for that. You are right though, what I wrote did sound confusing, I thought I was trying to make the distinction clear between using it for the connector, but not for the metal contacts (connections)themselves, but it did not come out that way. Like I said earlier it probably works fine, and I'm glad it works for you, but it is not the "right" way. No different than using a soap solution for mounting tires. Many do it, but it ain't right.
And again, I wasn't calling anyone on here an idiot for recommending it or using it for that matter. I was calling out the "idiots" on you tube calling it something that it's not.
The End.
 
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Sierra1

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Wasn't trying to start an internet war. . . .
No worries. If I'm effing up, I want to know about it. All my friends ask me why my stuff lasts longer than their stuff. I've always put it down to proper maintenance and not treating it like crap. When I was replacing a brake/turn lamp in my '92 Jeep, back in '96, it had what I took to be dielectric grease. So, what is the correct name for the goo that was in there, and what I'm supposed to be using?
 

lund

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It is interesting though when you replace ignition wires and buy ignition wire kits like NGK, MSD, ACCEL and even Delco. They come with dielectric grease or is that just hand cream...LOL...read small print if you plan on using it on more then hands.
 
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WJBertrand

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You don’t want to use a conductive grease in a multi-pin connector, or even in a two pin connector with positive and negative pins, as you could create a short circuit.

I think properly working connectors should fit so that the mating pins are tight enough to score each other as they are engaged, cutting right through any dialectic grease. The surrounding grease keeps moisture out.


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Sierra1

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Here's another reason why I thought dielectric grease/sealant was the thing to use. Carried by Home Depot. I call them wire nuts. Twist two wires together, and screw this on.
  • Filled with a dielectric silicone sealant that surrounds splices
  • Water and corrosion-resistant for a safer use
  • Ideal choice for outdoor electrical connections
1684469393073.png

I've never used dielectric stuff on pin connectors though. Just bulb sockets, battery posts, and these.
 

MattR

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fan is running now, i stripped the bike down cleaned the fan plug up started bike the fan kicks in now every time, but at 114c guys are saying
to high, should be 104, and saying is the relay sticking now so i don,t know
the fan is working now perfectly i have a flashed bike with samco hoses don,t know if thats why its kicking in at 114 but every time its 114

rob
Hi Rob, I think I remember you saying CJS flashed your bike? Chris usually reduces the temp at which the fan cuts in by 5oC unless you asked for something different? The fact that you said temp remains normal when moving indicates the thermostat is working ok.
If the fan has now started cutting in at 114 and this is new, I would suggest the fan switch is defective or the temp gauge switch is defective. I use ACF50 on all my electrical plugs.
M@


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bimota

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Hi Rob, I think I remember you saying CJS flashed your bike? Chris usually reduces the temp at which the fan cuts in by 5oC unless you asked for something different? The fact that you said temp remains normal when moving indicates the thermostat is working ok.
If the fan has now started cutting in at 114 and this is new, I would suggest the fan switch is defective or the temp gauge switch is defective. I use ACF50 on all my electrical plugs.
M@


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Matt
this is TABASCO reply to me and it makes sence the bike has always kicked in at 114c since flash

When the bike is flashed, part of "tricking" the ECU is telling the engine fueling that its hotter / cooler than it really is... It's to trick fueling...... so your fan wont kick on until the bike is actually hotter than a totally stock bike............. happens to mine, and is "normal" for a flashed bike.........

Here in the US the stock fan kicks on at about 180-190F ( Ive actually forgotten its been so long) ............... mine now kicks on at 220-221.... Point being that my fan kicks on when the bike is hotter, due to the flash....

!


rob
 

MattR

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Matt
this is TABASCO reply to me and it makes sence the bike has always kicked in at 114c since flash

When the bike is flashed, part of "tricking" the ECU is telling the engine fueling that its hotter / cooler than it really is... It's to trick fueling...... so your fan wont kick on until the bike is actually hotter than a totally stock bike............. happens to mine, and is "normal" for a flashed bike.........

Here in the US the stock fan kicks on at about 180-190F ( Ive actually forgotten its been so long) ............... mine now kicks on at 220-221.... Point being that my fan kicks on when the bike is hotter, due to the flash....

!


rob
Hi Rob,
This may be how US flashes are done but Chris sets the fuel maps first. The adjustment for the fan cut in is done separately and does not affect the fuel maps. In the uk the OEM setting for fan cut in is 105c and Chris usually sets them to cut in at 100c as he did with mine


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bimota

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Hi Rob,
This may be how US flashes are done but Chris sets the fuel maps first. The adjustment for the fan cut in is done separately and does not affect the fuel maps. In the uk the OEM setting for fan cut in is 105c and Chris usually sets them to cut in at 100c as he did with mine


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well he did mine 5 yrs ago i have no idea what he did to be honest

rob
 

lund

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Here's another reason why I thought dielectric grease/sealant was the thing to use. Carried by Home Depot. I call them wire nuts. Twist two wires together, and screw this on.
  • Filled with a dielectric silicone sealant that surrounds splices
  • Water and corrosion-resistant for a safer use
  • Ideal choice for outdoor electrical connections
View attachment 101565

I've never used dielectric stuff on pin connectors though. Just bulb sockets, battery posts, and these.
In the shop here we use it on everything from motorcycles, ATV/UTV, snowmobiles and boat motors and we are now selling electric bikes.
We have hundreds if not actually thousands of customer units out there with dielectric grease used in their machines. Never ever had a complaint, warranty because of the dielectric. BUT I have seen a shit load of electrical and engine failures because of corrosion, maybe that is just a coincident LOL. Each to their own but we use it especially in the wet/damp and even corrosive environment's some of these are used in, like outboards in the salt chuck or UTV at a cow farm.
 

bimota

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temp switch for a 2013 gen 1 part number is 8CC-85790-01 £87
can anyone think why this XT1200 2014-2018 switch would not fit

rob
 

Sierra1

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Different connector? I DO NOT KNOW, but that's the only reason I can think of. Are there two different part numbers for the different generation?
 

bimota

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Different connector? I DO NOT KNOW, but that's the only reason I can think of. Are there two different part numbers for the different generation?
yep if you look above the part number listed for my 2013 is 8cc-85790-01 the one above ebay is saying 2014-19 5yp-85790-00
 

Sierra1

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yep if you look above the part number listed for my 2013 is 8cc-85790-01 the one above ebay is saying 2014-19 5yp-85790-00
Something is changed/different then. Unless it was just a vendor change. Any way to see the actual terminal ends well enough to compare?
 

bimota

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LOL, fixed this as we know plug on radiator fan, just went into the garage to put bits back on and check and wow fork seals gone on the same ride oil everywhere

rob
 

Sierra1

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The Honda ST 1300 I rode would lose the left seal about every two years. But it would only leave a drop or two on the floor.
 

Boris

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LOL, fixed this as we know plug on radiator fan, just went into the garage to put bits back on and check and wow fork seals gone on the same ride oil everywhere

rob
Hello Rob, just my opinion, if you’re not handy with the spanners, take the forks out and drop them to a suspension specialist for a service and new seals/bushes. One of those “do it properly once” jobs. This place in Pontypridd looks and sounds well capable. https://moto-pro.co.uk/

Forks out is an easy and straightforward job. All torque settings are in my post in the relevant forum page. 45 mins out, same back in.

Note, I have no allegiance to that shop and take no responsibility for their work. But I’d let them do my forks if I was local.
 
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