Shame you cant just stick gas in them and go. And you would look forward to servicing time.Just like women, the prettier they are, the harder it is to live with them.
Shame you cant just stick gas in them and go. And you would look forward to servicing time.Just like women, the prettier they are, the harder it is to live with them.
Wasn't trying to start an internet war. The problem with being an ex crew chief on a motorcycle race team is we were taught in absolutes. Among them were to never use dielectric grease directly on electrical connections. There are proper "conducting" greases for that. You are right though, what I wrote did sound confusing, I thought I was trying to make the distinction clear between using it for the connector, but not for the metal contacts (connections)themselves, but it did not come out that way. Like I said earlier it probably works fine, and I'm glad it works for you, but it is not the "right" way. No different than using a soap solution for mounting tires. Many do it, but it ain't right.I'll start by saying I'm one of those idiots, 'cuz I've always coated my positive batter post, bulb sockets on my Jeep, etc. But your statement kinda contradicts itself. So, it doesn't help conduction? But it's good for electrical connectors? How can it be both? To me that means it doesn't help the metal-to-metal contact, but it protects the metal-to-metal contact? So, if he cleans the contacts, then covers them in dielectric grease, it should protect the contact(s)? It's never let me down, and I've never had corrosion. And Vaseline has been used in a pinch.
Yes . . . . no. . . . maybe?
But it would still cost more than a Beemer.. . . . And you would look forward to servicing time.
No worries. If I'm effing up, I want to know about it. All my friends ask me why my stuff lasts longer than their stuff. I've always put it down to proper maintenance and not treating it like crap. When I was replacing a brake/turn lamp in my '92 Jeep, back in '96, it had what I took to be dielectric grease. So, what is the correct name for the goo that was in there, and what I'm supposed to be using?Wasn't trying to start an internet war. . . .
Hi Rob, I think I remember you saying CJS flashed your bike? Chris usually reduces the temp at which the fan cuts in by 5oC unless you asked for something different? The fact that you said temp remains normal when moving indicates the thermostat is working ok.fan is running now, i stripped the bike down cleaned the fan plug up started bike the fan kicks in now every time, but at 114c guys are saying
to high, should be 104, and saying is the relay sticking now so i don,t know
the fan is working now perfectly i have a flashed bike with samco hoses don,t know if thats why its kicking in at 114 but every time its 114
rob
MattHi Rob, I think I remember you saying CJS flashed your bike? Chris usually reduces the temp at which the fan cuts in by 5oC unless you asked for something different? The fact that you said temp remains normal when moving indicates the thermostat is working ok.
If the fan has now started cutting in at 114 and this is new, I would suggest the fan switch is defective or the temp gauge switch is defective. I use ACF50 on all my electrical plugs.
M@
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Hi Rob,Matt
this is TABASCO reply to me and it makes sence the bike has always kicked in at 114c since flash
When the bike is flashed, part of "tricking" the ECU is telling the engine fueling that its hotter / cooler than it really is... It's to trick fueling...... so your fan wont kick on until the bike is actually hotter than a totally stock bike............. happens to mine, and is "normal" for a flashed bike.........
Here in the US the stock fan kicks on at about 180-190F ( Ive actually forgotten its been so long) ............... mine now kicks on at 220-221.... Point being that my fan kicks on when the bike is hotter, due to the flash....
!
rob
well he did mine 5 yrs ago i have no idea what he did to be honestHi Rob,
This may be how US flashes are done but Chris sets the fuel maps first. The adjustment for the fan cut in is done separately and does not affect the fuel maps. In the uk the OEM setting for fan cut in is 105c and Chris usually sets them to cut in at 100c as he did with mine
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In the shop here we use it on everything from motorcycles, ATV/UTV, snowmobiles and boat motors and we are now selling electric bikes.Here's another reason why I thought dielectric grease/sealant was the thing to use. Carried by Home Depot. I call them wire nuts. Twist two wires together, and screw this on.
View attachment 101565
- Filled with a dielectric silicone sealant that surrounds splices
- Water and corrosion-resistant for a safer use
- Ideal choice for outdoor electrical connections
I've never used dielectric stuff on pin connectors though. Just bulb sockets, battery posts, and these.
yep if you look above the part number listed for my 2013 is 8cc-85790-01 the one above ebay is saying 2014-19 5yp-85790-00Different connector? I DO NOT KNOW, but that's the only reason I can think of. Are there two different part numbers for the different generation?
Something is changed/different then. Unless it was just a vendor change. Any way to see the actual terminal ends well enough to compare?yep if you look above the part number listed for my 2013 is 8cc-85790-01 the one above ebay is saying 2014-19 5yp-85790-00
Hello Rob, just my opinion, if you’re not handy with the spanners, take the forks out and drop them to a suspension specialist for a service and new seals/bushes. One of those “do it properly once” jobs. This place in Pontypridd looks and sounds well capable. https://moto-pro.co.uk/LOL, fixed this as we know plug on radiator fan, just went into the garage to put bits back on and check and wow fork seals gone on the same ride oil everywhere
rob