HARD START

[Dogdaze]

I have a cheap load tester and with that the stock battery tested fine so I thought maybe I should take it to my dealer and have them load test it, they tested it with two different and expensive looking testers and got the same results as my cheap load tester so I guess my 13 battery is still fine.

When Looking at Amazon for a battery it says the Yuasa YTZ 14S does not fit the Tenere , apparently that's incorrect information ?

The physical dimensions will fit, when Yuasa tells you it does not 'fit' it means the amps are meant for other bikes, so limits their liability, covering ones backside! This battery is the upgrade choice for many.

 

[Cycledude]

The physical dimensions will fit, when Yuasa tells you it does not 'fit' it means the amps are meant for other bikes, so limits their liability, covering ones backside! This battery is the upgrade choice for many.

Thanks that's pretty much what I expected, for some reason I thought the newer Tenere's came with YTZ14S but I guess that's not true.

 

[EricV]

Well, my '12 and my '15 both came with the Yuasa YTZ12. When I got the '15, I swapped the heavier YTZ14S to the '15 and put the brand new 12S into the 2012 bike I sold.

Both batteries have the same external dimensions and terminal locations. It's a direct swap and worth while as the starting is noticeably quicker with faster cranking.

 

[Cycledude]

Well, my '12 and my '15 both came with the Yuasa YTZ12. When I got the '15, I swapped the heavier YTZ14S to the '15 and put the brand new 12S into the 2012 bike I sold.

Both batteries have the same external dimensions and terminal locations. It's a direct swap and worth while as the starting is noticeably quicker with faster cranking.

Thanks for the confirmation, my battery load tests good now but someday it won't and when that happens I will most likely do what you did replace it with a higher output YTZ14S.

 

[Juan]

Today I replaced the Yuasa YTS12S battery that came with my new bike in April 2013 with a Yuasa YTZ14S. The old battery was still good enough but required a little charging if not used for a week, otherwise it couldn't crank the bike fast enough to fire up. As soon as I installed the new 14S, I gave it a go, knowing that supplier storage period, etc would have drained the charge somewhat. The new 14S was registering 12.8 volts before connecting it, so I figured that that was good enough to give it a try. And wow, what power! The bike cranked as never before and fired up immediately. I would not hesitate to advise all that when the time comes to replace the battery, the Yuasa YTZ14S is a fine contender.

 

[2daMax]

I made the cranking even stronger by putting in 4X 22,000uF Capacitors (in parallel), in parallel to the battery. Butt dyno tells me it responds better too.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Wow!
Haven't seen that one done on a bike before. The way the starter motors can make and retain heat, you'll need a good half hour of cooling if it doesn't start fairly quick.

 

[jackintherok]

Had the S10 since May 2012. Don’t want to bore you with the details, but have had like 50 or so hard starts (jump-started many times, push-started several times, and been trucked twice). Seems that the bile is sensitive to a combo of things like, cold, wet (especially overnight cold mist in the middle of nowhere), starting procedure, plugs (side stand side plug recess can fill with water), air filter, throttle body crap …. and if she doesn’t start after 1 or 2 cranks she floods … no point in continuing the pain so, → F#4 out →crank (fires for 1 – 2 secs)→F#4 in → your WOT procedure →crank …and she fires 99% of the time. Right now, I’m thinking battery. New battery no problem, poor battery big problem, but intermediate battery … probably sensitive to all of the above. Over the last 5 years battery life has been less than expected (the 4th just fitted, the 3rd completely failed after 6 months). So, maybe she’s eating batteries. Maybe because after a 7-10 day layover between rides the battery is ‘intermediate’ and because relying on the generator to charge the battery cooks the buggar (AGM batteries are prone to hot spots at high charging amps, which are not good). So, much for the thoughts. Right now, am nursing a BS BTZ14S battery over the winter months, and will monitor its reducing performance.

 

[markjenn]

Had the S10 since May 2012. Don’t want to bore you with the details, but have had like 50 or so hard starts (jump-started many times, push-started several times, and been trucked twice). Seems that the bile is sensitive to a combo of things like, cold, wet (especially overnight cold mist in the middle of nowhere), starting procedure, plugs (side stand side plug recess can fill with water), air filter, throttle body crap …. and if she doesn’t start after 1 or 2 cranks she floods … no point in continuing the pain so, → F#4 out →crank (fires for 1 – 2 secs)→F#4 in → your WOT procedure →crank …and she fires 99% of the time. Right now, I’m thinking battery. New battery no problem, poor battery big problem, but intermediate battery … probably sensitive to all of the above. Over the last 5 years battery life has been less than expected (the 4th just fitted, the 3rd completely failed after 6 months). So, maybe she’s eating batteries. Maybe because after a 7-10 day layover between rides the battery is ‘intermediate’ and because relying on the generator to charge the battery cooks the buggar (AGM batteries are prone to hot spots at high charging amps, which are not good). So, much for the thoughts. Right now, am nursing a BS BTZ14S battery over the winter months, and will monitor its reducing performance.

I agree with your assessment that a battery/charging problem is exacerbating the hard starts. Is there any chance you have an electrical accessory installed that is slowly draining your battery while the bike sits between starts? You shouldn't necessarily need to do so, but if you are keeping the bike in a garage with AC power, keeping the battery on a battery tender charger would assure you that you always have a full charge and probably make your batteries last indefinitely. Good luck,

- Mark

 

[jackintherok]

Only the immobilizer. The workshop manual I have doesn't give info on the wattages of bit n'pieces. So, going to follow battery volts, charging times, CCAs using same units, and look at effects of cranking for 10 secs with F#4 out versus charge time as the year goes by. I've taken 2 weeks as a cutoff for a layover without charging and have sort of stuck to that, but do rely on the bike to charge the battery after a 2 week layover, when I use a smart charger, it’s for 8/10 hrs or so. Got an insider link (a little dated) on batteries (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/newbattery.htm) and it mentions the demands large adventure bikes place on batteries (big CCAs, generators to match, and electrical add on’s). Also noted for GS1200 Yuasa 14S recommended but that the 12S battery is recommended for the S10.

 

[scott123007]

I know there are still skeptics, but I'm a big fan of Lithium Iron batteries. I have Shorai's in five different bikes now, the oldest going on five years. I do live in a warm climate though, so some of the issues with sub freezing weather and battery hibernation are not an issue. What they definitely do is give a little extra oomph when starting the bike, and they can sit for what seems like forever, with minimal discharge.

 

[Juan]

I agree with your assessment that a battery/charging problem is exacerbating the hard starts. Is there any chance you have an electrical accessory installed that is slowly draining your battery while the bike sits between starts? You shouldn't necessarily need to do so, but if you are keeping the bike in a garage with AC power, keeping the battery on a battery tender charger would assure you that you always have a full charge and probably make your batteries last indefinitely. Good luck,

- Mark

+1 That's exactly what happened to me. I had installed an alarm on the bike and it was fine for some time. Then I noticed that the battery started needing a little charge if the bike is not used for 4 days or so, with the alarm off. I disconnected the alarm and now the bike starts even after a couple of weeks in the garage.

 

[AVGeek]

Only the immobilizer. The workshop manual I have doesn't give info on the wattages of bit n'pieces. So, going to follow battery volts, charging times, CCAs using same units, and look at effects of cranking for 10 secs with F#4 out versus charge time as the year goes by. I've taken 2 weeks as a cutoff for a layover without charging and have sort of stuck to that, but do rely on the bike to charge the battery after a 2 week layover, when I use a smart charger, it’s for 8/10 hrs or so. Got an insider link (a little dated) on batteries (http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/newbattery.htm) and it mentions the demands large adventure bikes place on batteries (big CCAs, generators to match, and electrical add on’s). Also noted for GS1200 Yuasa 14S recommended but that the 12S battery is recommended for the S10.

Many members here have gone to the larger 14 battery with good results. Its the same case size and terminal orientation, but has greater CCA.

 

[jackintherok]

Hey guys appreciate the support (this is humongous thread)... I will monitor CCAs and other stuff as this battery ages. Lithium battery is on the list (EarthX ETX36C), but to get one to Korea with charger 700 US +, and Li batteries have quirks. Will do if necessary, because otherwise the S10 is a great bike ... I love it (and hate the bitch sometimes).

She Just goes on and on and on and on and on and on and on ..... after you get her started.

 

[markjenn]

If you have an ammeter, you can pretty easily check what the parasitic load is on the battery. I don't have the spec in front of me, but it should be something like 25 mA or less.

- Mark

 

[Checkswrecks]

Jackintherok -
Juan's advice below will cost a LOT less than the EarthX and a lot of us have stayed with these bigger AGMs.

Today I replaced the Yuasa YTS12S battery that came with my new bike in April 2013 with a Yuasa YTZ14S. The old battery was still good enough but required a little charging if not used for a week, otherwise it couldn't crank the bike fast enough to fire up. As soon as I installed the new 14S, I gave it a go, knowing that supplier storage period, etc would have drained the charge somewhat. The new 14S was registering 12.8 volts before connecting it, so I figured that that was good enough to give it a try. And wow, what power! The bike cranked as never before and fired up immediately. I would not hesitate to advise all that when the time comes to replace the battery, the Yuasa YTZ14S is a fine contender.

 

[RonH]

I had the hard start on my 2012 two or three times, and the original YTZ12S simply was not strong enough to both turn the engine over and start reliably. I load checked it at 95CCA at the end, but long before that it was marginal to say the least. Of course they still use the 12S even on the new Teneres, but for sure anyone with start problems start with a new battery. The Tenere needs a good, strong battery to start. The YTZ14S proved a great upgrade for sure. No hint of hard start after battery replaced, and fixed the "high idle" problem as well. The motorcycle needs a good battery or all kind of problems crop up.

 

[jackintherok]

Checkwrecks .... these threads are too long ... as I said sometime, I've now got an 14s battery (being nursed thro the Korean winter, which is cold). Suspect battery is a major contributor to starting problems. Lithium batteries have problems too, like losing power in the cold, packing up totally without notice, and getting fried if you try to charge them when they are low or you jump start and charge them on the run. Surprised how much charge the fully charged new 14S battery took to full charge after one (good) start (like a 1-2 sec rumble and start, which was awesome) and 24 hrs in the bike. Think the demobilizer takes more power than I thought. Anyway got a battery load tester, decent multimeter and lithium jump starter on order. Will crack this starting problemmo, but the ease of flooding reminds be of pressurized oil lamp problems and is beyond me.... some MF at Yamaha probably knows.

 

[moondoggie]

Hi fellas, I need some help.
2012 Tenere, stock except for manual cct a couple of years ago (thanks Tabassco), 50K miles.
Bike had been running perfectly. Replaced air cleaner, changed oil and oil filter. Fully charged 2 year old Yuasa 12s on battery tender. Bike in garage, probably about 50 degrees. (Note: Have had 2 hard starts over the years - once when I started cold bike and shut off immediately - wouldn't restart. Did WOT thing and after a minute or 2 - wroom, black smoke. I think the second time was after lifting tank for some reason but again it started with WOT after a few minutes)
Scenerio:
1.Bike fired and died. Repeated cranking - no start. Went to WOT (like hard start recommended), crank for 30 seconds to well over 1 minute - bike tried a few times to fire but wouldn't catch, Removed FI fuse, cranked with a few sputters, etc. Replaced FI fuse, stop engine switch off key on, WOT, Stop Engine switch on, starter - crank from over a minute, display flashed on then off then on a few times, headlights flashed on and off, no start. Battery now very weak. Ignition off, Stop Engine Switch off. Strong smell of gas (obviously flooded)
2. Air out garage, Plug in tender, leave overnight.
3. Repeat the above, bike with still not start. Leave overnight again this time with the key off and my throttle locked WOT with my thumb throttle lock (recommended by friend - felt it would help fuel evaporate)
4. Repeat the procedure the next morning. First attempt to crank is with no throttle. Went to WOT, remove F4, etc - Same result - no start, some close tries, display flashimg on/off while cranking. Very strong gas smell. Relift fuel tank ad check connecions - eveything appears ok.
5. Friend recommended leaving throttle locked WOT, key off and leaving bike alone till Friday (earliest he can help me work on it). Try again and if no start we will dig in and check plugs, etc. Garage still smells of gas.

It seems obvious that something about lifting the tank and securing it open with bungees has done something? Can anyone suggest something I am missing or can check?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Dogdaze]

Kinked the fuel/vapour lines by any chance when putting the tank back?