HARD START

Checkswrecks

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My guess is that your 5 year old battery is dying. Try jump starting it from your car battery with THE CAR MOTOR OFF. Or just because it is probably about due anyway, replace the 12S battery with a 14S.
 

SilverBullet

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Leaving the throttle WOT when not cranking the bike does nothing. That advice would be for a carbureted bike to hold the slide up.

Jump start first like CW said. Your display flashing while cranking is an indicator of a weak battery.

_

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moondoggie

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Thanks guys for the input.

The battery is 19 months old, not 5 years - and has been maintained on a tender and the bike ridden several times a week if not daily. I understand the flashing is a weak battery but it was after cranking for many minutes. I will jump start next time I try and will replace with the 14s.

I followed the fuel and vent lines and don't see anything kinked. I will check again.

Any other ideas??
 
R

RonH

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There is some talk of tenders actually ruining AGM batteries several places I read. Of course some guys love them, some not, like anything else. I would get the battery load tested and discontinue the tender routine.
 

Checkswrecks

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RonH said:
There is some talk of tenders actually ruining AGM batteries several places I read. Of course some guys love them, some not, like anything else. I would get the battery load tested and discontinue the tender routine.

::026::
In the winter, I put the tender on a bike for a night or so, then leave it off for at least a week or two.
 

Juan

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SilverBullet said:
Leaving the throttle WOT when not cranking the bike does nothing. That advice would be for a carbureted bike to hold the slide up.

Jump start first like CW said. Your display flashing while cranking is an indicator of a weak battery.

_

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::026::
About leaving the bike overnight with WOT, more so since the bike is YCT (drive by wire) not cable, so WOT overnight is completely useless.
 

moondoggie

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Thanks again fellas,

When I jump start (or if I get the new 14s I ordered and install before I try next) should I start with no throttle or throttle wide open? The bike has been sitting since Tuesday night.

Thx again
 

Checkswrecks

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Throttle closed.
Quit after about 30 cumulative seconds and let the starter cool for a half hour since you don't NEED to have the bike running right away. The starters are expensive and hold the heat for a long time.
 

moondoggie

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If it does not start with closed throttle after 30 second - After letting it cool for 30 minutes, do I try again with closed or wot throttle?

Thx again, Jack
 

Nikolajsen

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I think there is as many opinion on how to do this, as there are members here ;-)

If it was me, and it did not start after 2 x 5-6 seconds with starter, and closed throttle, I would try a third time with full throttle, and maybe 10 seconds.
But for others, this may sound completly wrong.
(And this is my first bike with fuel injection :) )
 

Juan

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30 continuous seconds with starter pressed is a lot and it's taking it to extremes.
I would do:
15 seconds with throttle closed and if nothing happens then wait three minutes and go for WOT for max 15 seconds.
Needless to say, the battery should be fully charged and if it's a weak battery then consider jump start to a car battery (with car NOT running).
 

moondoggie

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Did what Juan and previous poster suggested and still no start. Battery was jumped and turned over strong. two tries with no throttle about 10 seconds or so each. A couple of pops. Waited a few minutes and tried wot - again it tried but never caught. Am disheartened and have things to do today, so will revisit later. I have a 14s that should be delivered on 1/2. Before that I may take the plugs out to see if they are wet (they were replaced about 10K miles ago during valve check and they are such a pain to get too)

I had placed portable heaters in the garage early this morning to raise the ambient from 55-60 degrees on up to about 70 before trying figuring this would help.

I always try to do a new years day ride to the bridge to no where in TN. This year it is supposed to be a high of 24 and a low of 5 fahrenheit. Guess I'll have to take old faithful - a 1975 Harley FLH - I've had for 20 years. She has never let me down and only needs spark, fuel and compression - she has electric start but also a kicker if need be. Her wiring harness has 7 wires, a tad different from the Tenere.

Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated and thanks again, Jack
 

moondoggie

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No, just minor pop and slight speed up of rpm sound like it was trying to start. No actual running
 

Checkswrecks

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Next most likely and cheapest would be replacing the plugs, then see if you have one or more weak coils.
 

SilverBullet

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When was the last time you adjusted the manual CCT? How many miles in the two years since you installed it? Sounds like it was very cold in your garage, was temperature below freezing?

_

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Cycledude

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Just curious Did you ever load test the old battery ?
I would wait until the new 14s battery is actually installed before doing anything else.
Once it’s installed hopefully your bike will start like normal. ::012::
If it doesn’t start don’t ever crank on it steady for 30-60 seconds at a time or who knows what kind of damage that might cause ::005:: I think 10-12 seconds cranking might be acceptable but I’ve never cranked on mine that long, yes I’ve also experienced the hard start issue twice.
If it doesn’t start pretty quick come back here and tell us about it and hopefully someone will be able to figure out what the problem is.

Might seem like a stupid question but Have you checked to make sure there is enough gas in the tank ? Do you actually hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position ?
 

Nikolajsen

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In this case, I think, like many others, that when it doesn't make a difference with the gas closed/fully open.
The next I would look in to, is the spark on sparkplug, and the fuel line.
 
R

RonH

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Did you try wide open throttle while attempting to start and installing/removing the fuel injection fuse repeatedly during cranking? I know you said you tried the fuse, but simply removing the fuse, then cranking, then reinstalling doesn't cut it. Maybe you tried this, don't know and don't mean to beat a dead horse. I fought getting my 2012 started for 3 entire days one time and it reluctantly fired up finally by doing the insert/remove fuse repeatedly during cranking.
 

Nikolajsen

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RonH said:
installing/removing the fuel injection fuse repeatedly during cranking?
:question: :question:
(Just want to know the thought behind, what/why should this help? )
 
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