HARD START

2daMax

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Nikolajsen said:
:question: :question:
(Just want to know the thought behind, what/why should this help? )
The idea is to cranks the starter motor (valves open to purge out fuel) but no fuel is pumped out of injectiors to clear any flooded situation.
 

Nikolajsen

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2daMax said:
The idea is to cranks the starter motor (valves open to purge out fuel) but no fuel is pumped out of injectiors to clear any flooded situation.
Thank you ::008:: Now I understand :lamp:
....but if it really is that flooded, your sparkplug wil then be very wet, if you don't remove them. (before or after)
 

moondoggie

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Good input guys, it truly is a global forum.

Think I will take suggestions and do the following:
1. wait on 14s, fully charge on the bench, install and give it a try.
2. If no go, check/replace the plugs
3. Check coils (not sure how to do this?? Is there a procedure (I have a service manual but am not very skilled at this sort of stuff. I understand old carb bikes but not new FI bikes. Can you pull plug, ground to engine and check spark? How do you do that with the airbox/throttle bodies off the bike??)

To answer others questions:
1. Yes there is gas, over 1/2 tank - 1 week old from no ethanol 93 octane pump. Yes fuel pump cycles - builds pressure and turns off after each key turn (strong smell of gas after multiple start attempts)
2. Garage is heated, about 60 degrees
3. Manual cct has not been adjusted since install over 10K miles. No issues or sound before latest service
4. I tried removing the FI fuse, turning over WOT for 15 seconds, replacing fuse, turning over WOT for 15 seconds sequence 3 times in a row over a 30 minute timeframe. Repeated 2 days in a row.
 

moondoggie

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Well, it is usually the simplest solution as many of you pointed out. 14s battery arrived today, bike fired right up.

Many thanks for all the input. I have never had a 19 month Yuasa go out before but you live and learn. Should have load tested as suggested right up front. I usually replace moto batteries every three years, especially if I have a big trip lined up, but may rethink this with the tenere. (always worked well with my harleys, Honda st1300, ktm, etc.).

Again, thanks to the forum and members who helped,

Jack
 

Cycledude

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Great to hear it started fine with the new 14s battery ! Would still be interesting to see what a load test says about your old battery.
 

Juan

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moondoggie said:
Well, it is usually the simplest solution as many of you pointed out. 14s battery arrived today, bike fired right up. ]

Well done. At the very least you get to go on the NYD ride :)

Notwithstanding, I doubt it was the 14s battery that solved it. You mentioned that you had tried to jump start the bike from (lI assume) a good powerful battery. In this case, the 14s wouldn't have added more juice than the other powerful battery (also assuming that the jump leads were tightly secured both ends). Possibly, the flooding cleared by letting the bike rest.

Anyway, it's good that you replaced the 12s with a 14s.
 

AVGeek

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moondoggie said:
Well, it is usually the simplest solution as many of you pointed out. 14s battery arrived today, bike fired right up.

Many thanks for all the input. I have never had a 19 month Yuasa go out before but you live and learn. Should have load tested as suggested right up front. I usually replace moto batteries every three years, especially if I have a big trip lined up, but may rethink this with the tenere. (always worked well with my harleys, Honda st1300, ktm, etc.).

Again, thanks to the forum and members who helped,

Jack
Where in the US are you? Here in the desert, I've seen batteries die about every 2 years...
 
R

RonH

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I'm close to 10yrs on the original battery in the GL1800. My 2012 Super Tenere lasted only 5yrs and I thought that was short lived. Guess I should consider myself pretty fortunate. One thing I don't completely understand is the AGM Yuasa used in the GL1800 is $100 or less, the AGM used in the Super Tenere is darn close to $150 for a smaller battery.
 

OldRider

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RonH said:
I'm close to 10yrs on the original battery in the GL1800. My 2012 Super Tenere lasted only 5yrs and I thought that was short lived. Guess I should consider myself pretty fortunate. One thing I don't completely understand is the AGM Yuasa used in the GL1800 is $100 or less, the AGM used in the Super Tenere is darn close to $150 for a smaller battery.
You're comparing apples to oranges. The Yamaha battery is a "Z" battery.
 
R

RonH

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I'm still confused, GYZ20L battery in goldwing is $88, YTZ14 is like $140 for the Super Tenere. I don't know what the GY or YT really means, but the YT is more expensive in smaller battery that lasts less. It doesn't matter, just something I noticed owning both.
 

eemsreno

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Checkswrecks

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A lot of Walmarts have this 14S on the rack for $45 and those without can have it in a day or two.
 

scott123007

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Checkswrecks said:
A lot of Walmarts have this 14S on the rack for $45 and those without can have it in a day or two.
I would hesitate to put a sealed lead acid battery in the upside down position it needs to be on the Tenere. I could be wrong, but I don't think it is the same as an AGM that has no fluid moving around and can be put in any position.
 

fredz43

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scott123007 said:
I would hesitate to put a sealed lead acid battery in the upside down position it needs to be on the Tenere. I could be wrong, but I don't think it is the same as an AGM that has no fluid moving around and can be put in any position.
Good point, Scott. The one that eemsreno linked is AGM and Steve has had good luck with his, so that is tempting.
 

Checkswrecks

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Thanks for catching that Steve. The last sealed Wally World battery I stuck into one of my bikes was the last FJR, so that is how I knew about it. But even though they are both 14 series the FJR had an upright mounting and the same battery would not work in the Tenere.


I've deleted the links from this thread. Wally World does carry the AGMs at a higher cost than what Steve pointed out.
 

jackintherok

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Real pleased to read these positive comments about batteries being a prime cause of starting problems, because they mean maybe I can resolve my long-term problem. Will go ahead and monitor battery condition versus starting problems during the year. Right now new battery (a BS BTZ 14S) is being 'cared for' by charging weekly after starting the bike only (bike hasn't moved temps too low), and so far it has started perfectly (like on 1st or second turn of the engine as opposed to not starting, coughing occasionally and smelling seriously of gas) without drawing significant charge from the battery. Beginning to suspect the immobilization system takes more battery juice than expected to run and that after 2 weeks stationary much charge is lost, and that starting the bike after two weeks means that the generator pumps high amps into the battery and causes damage (especially to 2nd grade batteries), because AGM batteries (unlike normal lead batteries) tend to track current at specific places between plates due to differences in the webbing (like slightly larger holes) used to separate plates and cause 'hot spots'. Also battery location in the S10 places it at risk 'cause it must get real hot under that side cover, especially when ambient temperatures are high (typically 29 degs C during the Korean summer) ... and batteries don't like high temps either. Anyway that last bit was the theory...the prize is that if I get over the unreliability caused by this starting issue I'll be a real happy bunny.
 

2daMax

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I am using a Solar Charger connected directly to the battery when I am not riding. It keeps the charge at max and that prolongs the battery life. The Solar charger at no load outputs at 18V and max out current around 300mA at full sun exposure. To make things easy to connect to the battery, I got a waterproof 12V socket with a fuse connection to the battery terminals and have the socket installed right where the stock plastic crash guard bracket arm is, and have cable ties securing it to the bracket. I could use the same socket for a air pump should I need it.
 

Checkswrecks

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I know that you have an AGM, but just as a warning to others, absolutely do NOT charge a lithium battery with anything that can go to 18V, even if the current is low.


Overcharging is one way we intentionally induce thermal runaways in Li-ion battery tests and some can be pretty spectacular.
 
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