handlebar recommendations

[Twisties]

I have the Contour Raptor bars in my garage waiting to replace the stock OEM bars. The bend is the same as the KLR OEM bars so that works for me. The Raptor has to be 1" taller than the stock bars and this is good. I need to decide if I am reusing the stock handguards or finding something else. Maier makes a very protective handguard.

Very interested in the Contour Raptor approach. Please keep us posted! I hate to ask, but if you could, please give an assessment of how reusing the oem bar weights and hand guards work out with it... and take lots of pics! Thanks!

 

[RogerJ]

Roberto........just remember that the SW Motech bars require a lot of handwork to make them fit. Wasp noted that he had to severely "linish" the right hand brake fluid reservoir to get it to go high enough on the bar so that all of the OEM pieces that attach to the handgrip area will fit on. If you are ok. with grinding down your brake reservoir go for it. I was looking at these too but am now looking for a different new bar. Also, these bars can not be sold in Canada or the USA because of copyright controversy according to Twisted Throttle USA and Canada. No problem for you in Chile though. Let us know how you make out.
Saludos! ::003:: ::003::

 

[HoebSTer]

N2 Overspeed,
MOst guys who had the VSTroms used the ATV Mid or High bends, that are close to that of the Contour. On the ProTaper website, they have a page that lists the dimentions on a chart for each bar they have. I compared this to the chart that WASP made, and is now posted on this thread as well.
You will run into two minor issues when installing: 1. the nut in the end of the old bar (i was thinking of having someone weld a solid aluminum piece in the end, then drill it and tap it!! 2. normal alignment and drilling to get the switch housing and throttle tube mounted properly.

 

[tomatocity]

Very interested in the Contour Raptor approach. Please keep us posted! I hate to ask, but if you could, please give an assessment of how reusing the oem bar weights and hand guards work out with it... and take lots of pics! Thanks!

I plan to reuse the barend weights though need to get the correct expanding internal nut for the for the barend bolt. Should be simple enough but might need to drill the barend for a larger diameter bolt.

V-Strom DL1000: I used a stock KLR handlebar though had to modify the barend to use the Acerbis bolt and expanding internal nut. The stock Strom handguards were reused. I was lucky enough to be in a machine shop when I installed the KLR bars.

 

[Longboard]

Hi Guy's,

I found a very cool handlebar simulator on the Zeta Racing web site: http://www.zeta-racing.com/handlebar/sx3_bar/index.html

Click on products
Click on handlebar
Click on SX3 handlebar 1 1/8"
Click on Handlebar Simulator - it is next to the Application tab at the bottom of the page.

Once your on the Simulator you simply click on the various bars to see what they look like on a bike. It's able to compare your stock bars but as you can imagine the S10 isn't their. What I did was to pull up demential drawing that WASP made and used that to compare ZETA's various bars. The Motard high bar look very interesting to me.

Have fun.

Longboard

 

[RogerJ]

Hello everyone. For those looking for a flex handlebar to absorb more shock and vibration I started looking into FAAST FLEX Handlebars. Pricey but have a good reputation and readily available in the USA and have a lot of different bends and heights. http://www.fasstco.com/moto/flexx/bends

Only question is if the handgrips portions will be long enough for all our controls and bits that clamp there and whether OEM handguards or say TT's will work with it. Would need to work out suitable tensioner inside the bar for OEM bolts and weights. Wasp has the SW Motech product that somewhat similar bar on his ST. When I contacted FAAST they said that a number of Super Tenere owners had switched to the FAAST FLEX bars. Looking forward to finding out more and seeing what bar they chose and why. Seems to be some interest on this BBS for a replacement bar with less angled drawback. There seem to be versions available that at wide enough (32") and high enough (92 mm) as compared to WASP's dimension drawing found in this thread. http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2365.0;attach=3783;image

Anybody here got these FAAST FLEX bars on their ST?????? Any considered opinion esp. from those feeling vibration sensibilities?

 

[RogerJ]

Still looking into a FLEXX bar from FAAST making sure that the handgrip portion is long enough and that TT Handguards can be integrated with the bar and have a good range of adjustment. If the bar can take the TT guards it will take the OEM ones handily.

Can somebody please take out the M8 mounting bolt from the left end of the grips and measure its length and preferably thread pitch too? I am not near my bike for a while and would appreciate your help in working out this bar alternative which I will post here. Much appreciated. ::26::

 

[RogerJ]

BUMP

Anyone got the length of this handlebar end bolt please and thankyou?

::016::

 

[RogerJ]

That would be this bolt..........#16

All help appreciated! :lamp:

 

[tomatocity]

BUMP

Anyone got the length of this handlebar end bolt please and thankyou?

::016::

Have you removed the bolt and measured?

 

[RogerJ]

My post was: Can somebody please take out the M8 mounting bolt from the left end of the grips and measure its length and preferably thread pitch too? I am not near my bike for a while and would appreciate your help in working out this bar alternative which I will post here. Much appreciated. ::26::

All it takes is reading the original post. Any constructive help out there?

 

[jajpko]

My post was: Can somebody please take out the M8 mounting bolt from the left end of the grips and measure its length and preferably thread pitch too? I am not near my bike for a while and would appreciate your help in working out this bar alternative which I will post here. Much appreciated. ::26::

All it takes is reading the original post. Any constructive help out there?

I would do this for you, but my bike is at the dealer. If you were to make a new thread and ask the same question, I'm sure someone would help you. Give it a try..

 

[N2 Overspeed]

OK guys (and Gals) I found the Protaper raptor bend that has been mentioned in this thread, when placing the Protaper along side with the stock bar, you can see that the Protaper has less pull back than the stock (about a inch). So I picked-up this new bar and just finished the install - pretty straight forward (and they look cool in black), it seems that all newer bikes all have these "locator pins" in the switch gear so I did away with them, (except for the Throttle assy) with the throttle I measured the original bars and drilled a "locator hole" but the end result is great, the wrists feel much better at this angle (I even got rid of the inch risers) I'll be going on a longer ride next week so Ill let you all know if it's the cats meow......
Now I need some advice on how you guys reused the original bar end weights? I see I'll need some sort of anchor nut inside the bars and I'll also need to need to reduce the size of the original bar end weights (attaching end) since the Protapers have a smaller inside diameter, what have you guys been doing??

 

[~TABASCO~]

Can ya take a few pictures of your set up and show where / what you need..

 

[tomatocity]

N2, you answered the questions I have about installing the ProTaper Raptor bar. I have yet to install my Raptors but I can tell you what I did for my DL1000 when I installed the stock KLR bars.

- Used Acerbis bar end anchors.
- Drilled the stock bar end weights.
- Had a friend turn the bar end weights to fit the new handlebar. Was lucky enough to be installing the handlebars in a machine shop (San Diego) so a lathe was available.

Thank you very much. Now I know what I need to purchases and where to do the installation. I have a friend (he used to build pre-load adjusters) near my home (Northern California) that has a machine shop. Guess I will gladly be buying dinner.

N2, did you find any concerns with Clutch and Front Brake line length? Are you using a Riser / BarBack?

 

[fredz43]

Tim, are the Raptors the ones that you decided were close to KLR bars? If so, I am a bit confused in that it is now said that they have LESS pullback than the OEM bars. If that is so, it would seem to make the bars a farther reach than the OEM's. I was hoping for something that brought the bars back closer either with or without risers.

Thanks.

 

[tomatocity]

Tim, are the Raptors the ones that you decided were close to KLR bars? If so, I am a bit confused in that it is now said that they have LESS pullback than the OEM bars. If that is so, it would seem to make the bars a farther reach than the OEM's. I was hoping for something that brought the bars back closer either with or without risers.

Thanks.

Hi Fred,

The ProTaper Raptor does have less (flatter) pullback than the stock OEM Yamaha Super Tenere handlebars.

The ProTaper Raptor seems to be identical in pullback to the stock OEM Kawasaki KLR handlebars. The height of the ProTaper Raptor is approximately 1" higher than the stock OEM Yamaha Super Tenere handlebar.

 

[tomatocity]

My post was: Can somebody please take out the M8 mounting bolt from the left end of the grips and measure its length and preferably thread pitch too? I am not near my bike for a while and would appreciate your help in working out this bar alternative which I will post here. Much appreciated. ::26::

All it takes is reading the original post. Any constructive help out there?

Removed the bolt and measured it.
- 8mm x 60mm
- Thread 25mm
- Shoulder 35mm

ProTaper Raptor handlebar
- inside diameter = 13.8mm

 

[RogerJ]

Thank you TomatoCity. BTW what Kaoko Throttle Lock can you use with the Raptor Pro Taper Bar? The KAOKO specific to the XT1200Z looks specific to OEM bar which has a nut welded inside the end of the bar. Any ideas on how to get a KAOKO or other throttle lock to work properly with this setup?

 

[RogerJ]

Here is the KAOKO for the OEM bar. It has a plastic ring that slides onto the metal barrel. This plastic ring goes up against the notched large tensioning wheel. Now.......what will work with the Raptor Pro Taper Bar?????