Airscrew Adjustment to fix off-idle stumble and Throttle Body Sync - w/ pigtails

Stoney

New Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Hollister CA.
Yes I did a 3/4 turn on the right (white) screw. Then backed it off a 1/8 turn. No change. I will check for leaks. Still better then it was. You should do it.
 

rotortech71

New Member
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
289
Location
Portland, OR
Stoney said:
Yes I did a 3/4 turn on the right (white) screw. Then backed it off a 1/8 turn. No change. I will check for leaks. Still better then it was. You should do it.
I gave it a try last spring, but couldn't really feel a difference with 3/4 turn out on the painted screw. So I went back to factory setting, and did the sync per the manual. Had the ecu flashed a couple months later, and never looked back. Bike runs fantastic!
 

carrot

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
359
Location
lockhart tx.
did a valve check new plugs and air filter last weekend but couldn't get the throttle bodies synchronized correctly without turning the white screw checked them again today with no luck decided to remove the steel rods in the carbtune and wipe them off after that they worked perfect just thought i would add this incase someone else runs into this.
 

tomatocity

Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
5,251
Location
Sacramento, CA USA
carrot said:
did a valve check new plugs and air filter last weekend but couldn't get the throttle bodies synchronized correctly without turning the white screw checked them again today with no luck decided to remove the still rods in the carbtune and wipe them off after that they worked perfect just thought i would add this incase someone else runs into this.
Still Rods?
 

Rasher

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
1,955
Location
UK
Should this still be done with Flashed ECU's :question:

I am coming up for 12k so need to lift tank for service anyway, wondering if it is worth altering the Airscrew with the ECU-U Flash or is this going to upset their mappings :question:

My (probably wrong) assumption is this really only affects very slight throttle openings and may still have a positive effect on a Flashed machine, I assume this is the equivalent of the old air screws on Carbs where it just allows a tiny bit more fuel through and will make a noticeable increase to mixture at very small openings, but once the throttle is lifted more than a few % makes virtually no difference.

Wondered if it may further reduce the slight surging with my Arrow headers.
 

carrot

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
359
Location
lockhart tx.
sorry about my post being confusing but im talking about the steel rods in my carbtune its the tool i use to adjust the throttle bodies if the steel rods get a little dirty they try to stick a little and give you a false reading
 

escapefjrtist

Searching for Dry Roads
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
1,430
Location
Snohomish WA
p51super10bombay said:
Without reading all 26 pages - I assume that the original instructions meant 3/4 out from fully seated as a starting point right?
Yes, that's correct. Did this plus CO adjust on my '12 and it *seems* to have improved off-idle and low RPM behavior.

YMMV

--G
 
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
52
Location
Pinon Hills,CA
I see where one part of the tubes are attached on each side....
I'd like to see where the two other parts off the "T" and the other side of the single tube attach to on each side....could someone also show how it looks attached to a synchronizer so I know what to buy..and what to actually do.
 

kmac

Kelly kmac
Joined
Nov 21, 2013
Messages
506
Location
Lake Elsinore 33.623407, -117.316600
Stoney said:
Yes I did a 3/4 turn on the right (white) screw. Then backed it off a 1/8 turn. No change. I will check for leaks. Still better then it was. You should do it.
Unless I am misunderstanding the OP or you, I do not think what you state in this post is the correct process.
In the OP it says he turned BOTH left and right TB screws 3/4 of a turn or 270* out {to the left} and then to get them to sync on the manometer he needed to turn the left side TB screw back in to the right about 1/8th of a turn or 45* in.

The right stays set at the 3/4 turn out and the left is the one used to sync them to balanced.

As stated I may be misunderstanding something though.
 

RIVA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Messages
768
Location
Cloyne Co.Cork Eire
Having done the TBS and the CO adjust, I need to increase the idle speed slightly. I hate to admit it but I cannot find the adjust screw. The service manual gives a diagram but again I cannot make sense of it. Must be an age thing. If possible be gentle and make it simple ::005:: ::005::
 

jaeger22

Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
358
Location
Orlando, FL
I am pretty sure Snake is right, there is no adjustment because it is controlled by the ECU. For the sync procedure the manual tells us to start it up and wait until the RPM gets to the correct range. I looked but as I expected I could not find anything about adjusting the idle speed in the manual. Either in the periodic maintenance section or the detailed dis-assembly of the TB section. Can you point to where what you are looking at is in the manual? It would be interesting to know about if we could adjust it.
 

autoteach

New Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
871
Location
Belgium WI
just to reiterate what others have said regarding the pigtails being left on the bike, if you are not using quality hose(rubber, multilayer), it will leak and you will get a check engine light on decel. It will come on at 3500 rpm and go off at 2500 rpm. Other than that, my TB sync was nearly dead on from the factory, so there is anecdotal evidence that everyone is wasting their time :D
 

Reveille

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
209
Location
Northern Illinois
I finally ran a ground wire and bumped the co's to +3. Put on over 500 miles yesterday and it is running really smooth now. I pulled the CJM and the stumble is barely noticeable now. If I do a 2nd gear roll on and twist it pretty good I get a delayed surge which is actually quite fun if you are ready for it. The air fuel/screw and sync is next. Who has a meter near Illinois I can borrow? ::024::
 

tomatocity

Active Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
5,251
Location
Sacramento, CA USA
Three of us sync'd TB's on Sunday. Always a nice feel to have a smooth throttle.
 

fredz43

Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
3,297
Location
IL, the land of straight, flat, boring roads
Reveille said:
I finally ran a ground wire and bumped the co's to +3. Put on over 500 miles yesterday and it is running really smooth now. I pulled the CJM and the stumble is barely noticeable now. If I do a 2nd gear roll on and twist it pretty good I get a delayed surge which is actually quite fun if you are ready for it. The air fuel/screw and sync is next. Who has a meter near Illinois I can borrow? ::024::
Well, I am in IL, but quite a bit south of northern IL. If you ever decide to take a ride about an hour south of Springfield, I'll do the TBS for you. Takes 15-30 minutes, depending on how much BS's ing we do. :)
 

Reveille

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
209
Location
Northern Illinois
fredz43 said:
Well, I am in IL, but quite a bit south of northern IL. If you ever decide to take a ride about an hour south of Springfield, I'll do the TBS for you. Takes 15-30 minutes, depending on how much BS's ing we do. :)
I may just take you up on that. It takes me at least that long to pull the side covers and pull the tank. You must be fast. ::024:: Springfield is 2 hours so you would be a 3 hour ride I recon. I am in the Yorkville area.
 
Top