10% off on all Super Tenere Aluminum ACD Racing Skid Plates forum members

Plumbersid

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Oct 6, 2014
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Got my ACD plate yesterday. Did the install on 14 today. Need the studs. I only loosened the cat mount and exhaust clamp. Was tight, but able to get the bolt on non spring side out. Used a screw driver to work the stand around to get the shim in, but was a fight. But a bigger pain to get the plate on. Very tight to get the mount under the cat, and took major force to get back to mounts to line up. Getting stud, and some adjustments next oil change. Fits nice, no rubbing. Very close to cat.
 

BWC

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Although the ACD plate is fairly easy to remove, for those of you who don't want to remove it for every oil change I did a couple of mods. to make it easier, especially when on a long RR. And yes this may compromise the strength of the plate a small amount. I cut out the front for oil filter access, installed the 4mm thick cover with some 4mm flat head screws and added a couple of 25mm holes to allow access to the oil drain plugs and a couple for the fuel tank drain hoses. I find its a little less clean up if I change it on the side stand.
The one trick to making this work is to make sure the plate is moved up as much as possible to center the filter in the opening to allow the filter wrench to fit.
And these small dents seem to mysteriously appear after a good ride so its doing its job well ::008::








 

acdracing

ACD Racing Parts USA
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Hi everyone!

Thank you for your messages and I'm glad that those who received their ACD Racing Parts Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere Skid plate can now enjoy it.

Just a reminder, here is a video showing mounting instructions and adjustments:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fTGV-d5KZ0

If you have further issues with installing it, please let us know.

And please, post pictures!

For those who have not ordered yet, 10% coupon is valid for no more than 15 days now, do your Xmas shopping!

ACD Racing Parts USA
http://www.acdracing.us
 

acdracing

ACD Racing Parts USA
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BWC said:
Although the ACD plate is fairly easy to remove, for those of you who don't want to remove it for every oil change I did a couple of mods. to make it easier, especially when on a long RR. And yes this may compromise the strength of the plate a small amount. I cut out the front for oil filter access, installed the 4mm thick cover with some 4mm flat head screws and added a couple of 25mm holes to allow access to the oil drain plugs and a couple for the fuel tank drain hoses. I find its a little less clean up if I change it on the side stand.
The one trick to making this work is to make sure the plate is moved up as much as possible to center the filter in the opening to allow the filter wrench to fit.
And these small dents seem to mysteriously appear after a good ride so its doing its job well ::008::

Hi BWC,

Very nice modification

Can I have Cedric Choffat, CEO and Designer at ACD Racing Parts contacting you?

Please tell me

ACD Racing Parts USA
http://www.acdracing.us
 

fredz43

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acdracing said:
Hi everyone!

Thank you for your messages and I'm glad that those who received their ACD Racing Parts Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere Skid plate can now enjoy it.

Just a reminder, here is a video showing mounting instructions and adjustments:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fTGV-d5KZ0

If you have further issues with installing it, please let us know.

And please, post pictures!

For those who have not ordered yet, 10% coupon is valid for no more than 15 days now, do your Xmas shopping!

ACD Racing Parts USA
http://www.acdracing.us
Thank you once again, for offering the forum members this discount.

Thanks also to you and Cedric for working with me in resolving my non fitting issues on my 14 ES. I hope that we can find a solution to these problems so that I can get this skid plate installed on my bike.

Fred Z.
 

KYwoodsrider

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Lawrenceburg, KY
Hello everyone
I just purchased a 2014 ES. I would like to order an ACD skid plate but the website states that it will not work with the ES model.
What is the differece in the ES/non ES model?
Are there modifications I can do to make it work?
Thanks in advance
 

fredz43

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KYwoodsrider said:
Hello everyone
I just purchased a 2014 ES. I would like to order an ACD skid plate but the website states that it will not work with the ES model.
What is the differece in the ES/non ES model?
Are there modifications I can do to make it work?
Thanks in advance
I bought one for my 14 ES and it won't fit correctly. They are supposed to be getting a ES in at the factory this next week to see what the difference is. If I bolt up the front two bolts to the engine with the supplied spacers, the rear brackets will not line up with the centerstand bolts. The right side bracket hits the exhaust on mine. They have offered a refund with return shipping, but I was waiting to hear what they found at the factory with their ES.

 

acdracing

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Hi Fred and Woodsrider!

Thank you Fred for your message. I just answered Woodsrider sending a PM but you were more efficient than I did!

This is it, we are in the process of testing on an actual ES version to check the adjustments to be performed for full compatibility.

Does anyone know the proportion of XT1200Z and XT1200ES sold in the US?

We keep you posted.

Thank you

ACD Racing Parts US
http://www.acdracing.us
 

KYwoodsrider

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ACD guys thanks for the quick feedback on the ES issue.
With the upcoming holidays I am not in a big rush to order a skid plate so I'll wait to see what you guys come up with.
 

wikidoki

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Oct 30, 2014
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Will the skid plate fit a 2014 NON-ES Tenere without much "Fiddling". I want to get the 10 percent off but do NOT want to play screw around each time I change my oil.
 

acdracing

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wikidoki said:
Will the skid plate fit a 2014 NON-ES Tenere without much "Fiddling". I want to get the 10 percent off but do NOT want to play screw around each time I change my oil.
Hi Wkidoki!

The ACD Racing Parts Super Tenere Skid Plate will perfectly fit your non ES 2014 XT1200. It is made to be easily mounted and removed to service oil. just 4 bolts, nothing else.

If you have any doubt, do not hesitate.

ACD Racing Parts USA
http://www.acdracing.us
 

fredz43

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wikidoki said:
Will the skid plate fit a 2014 NON-ES Tenere without much "Fiddling". I want to get the 10 percent off but do NOT want to play screw around each time I change my oil.
We should know soon if the ACS plate will fit a 14 ES also. My first ACD plate would not fit my ES. I found that one of the measurements on my plate was not in accordance with the drawings they sent me. ACD has kindly agreed to measure another for proper dimensions and send it to me with return shipping on the first one. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that and hope to receive it soon and will report back.

If it fits properly, the only "fiddly" thing I can see is that if I try to insert or remove the new bolts that go into the new center stand bushings while the weight of the bike is on the centerstand, the threads of the bolts drag on the outer flange of the frame, requiring a bit of force to remove or insert them. You certainly cannot turn them by hand as shown in the video, but OTOH, the bike is being suspended in the video, with no weight on the centerstand. After the first time I did that I had with the bike on the centerstand, I had to use a 10 x 1.25 die to chase the threads on the bolts. The only way that I could easily insert or remove those bolts was the lift the rear of the bike with a chain hoist, taking the weight off of the centerstand. While that is a bit inconvenient, I feel that I can live with that, as I always change oil at home and I have a chain hoist in my garage.
 

wikidoki

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My main concern is that I will not be in possession of a chain hoist to change my oil each time and want it to have a minimum "fiddly" factor. I do not need all the protection that plate provides, but I would like it.
 

acdracing

ACD Racing Parts USA
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wikidoki said:
My main concern is that I will not be in possession of a chain hoist to change my oil each time and want it to have a minimum "fiddly" factor. I do not need all the protection that plate provides, but I would like it.
We have some concerns with Fred's Skid Plate and will replace it as we are not sure if it has been damaged during shipping or if this is a specific ES issue (we are performing test on a ES version this week end to sort it out).

Usually there is no big deal at mounting / unmounting the plate for service and no need of specific tools as it has been designed for that specific purpose.

ACD Racing Parts USA
http://www.acdracing.us
 

blakebird

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wikidoki said:
My main concern is that I will not be in possession of a chain hoist to change my oil each time and want it to have a minimum "fiddly" factor. I do not need all the protection that plate provides, but I would like it.
I was wondering how much the spring tension on the centerstand would tug on the whole assembly once I removed one side's pivot bolt.
It turned out that it was no worry, the spring tension didn't pull it out of place, you're still able to put the collar in the inside frame lug easily.
You can easily manipulate the centerstand's pivot point (with enlarged hole that the collar must fit into) to line up with the collar and get it in place.

Once the pivot bolts are in place, that 'fiddly' part is done. You can remove the nylok nuts and slide the bolts out enough to drop the rear of the skid plate.
The front bolts are no problem.

When I was fitting mine, I loosened (did not remove) the exhaust header flange bolts, the right side header mount by the footpeg, and loosened the muffler clamp - allowing the cat-con to drop enough to remove the oem left side pivot bolt.
Once that is done during original fitment (to remove the oem bolt and replace with the m10x1.25 and collar) - the exhaust is a non-issue.

For oil changes, remove the front two bolts, and the rear two nylok nuts - slide the bolts out so their end is just flush with the pivot on the frame so the skidplate rear mounts can drop - and you're ready to do an oil change.

At the front, I also had contact with the inner header, which is a bit more forward than the outer... but before tightening the assembly I was able to pull the skid plate forward and get about 1/8" clear between the plate and header.
I slid a piece of cardboard in there and moved it around to gauge clearance after tightening.


So to future potential buyers: As with many aftermarket pieces, the fiddly part at installation is minor, and that part is done when it's installed.
That's because it is a very good snug fit that protects the important bits without taking up unnecessary space.
Removing it for an oil/filter change is easy and fiddle free.

 

fredz43

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blakebird, can you slide the bolts out easily when it is on the centerstand? Mine will not slide out, but have to be unscrewed if it is on the centerstand and there is mechanical drag on the thread of those bolts as I unscrew them. If I have it on the sidestand I can slide the non spring bolt out, but the spring side still requires unscrewing to remove it. The only way I can slide my rear bolts in or out is to have the rear of the bike elevated so there is no weight on the centerstand pivots.

I had a bit more trouble than you in getting the spring side insert in, but it is in now as I await my replacement skid plate.
 

blakebird

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fredz43 said:
blakebird, can you slide the bolts out easily when it is on the centerstand? Mine will not slide out, but have to be unscrewed if it is on the centerstand and there is mechanical drag on the thread of those bolts as I unscrew them. If I have it on the sidestand I can slide the non spring bolt out, but the spring side still requires unscrewing to remove it. The only way I can slide my rear bolts in or out is to have the rear of the bike elevated so there is no weight on the centerstand pivots.

I had a bit more trouble than you in getting the spring side insert in, but it is in now as I await my replacement skid plate.
Since both drain plugs are on the left side of the sump and at an angle conducive to sidestand draining....that's my plan.

I won't be removing the skid plate with the weight of the bike on the centerstand.
The collar only goes thru the inner frame flange and the centerstand - so weight on the outside frame lug will damage the threads when you have to 'unscrew' them.

I found that out the same way you did....but instead of chasing the threads I damaged with a die, I replaced the bolts with grade 10.9 I found at my local favorite fastener place.
 

fredz43

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blakebird said:
Since both drain plugs are on the left side of the sump and at an angle conducive to sidestand draining....that's my plan.

I won't be removing the skid plate with the weight of the bike on the centerstand.
The collar only goes thru the inner frame flange and the centerstand - so weight on the outside frame lug will damage the threads when you have to 'unscrew' them.

I found that out the same way you did....but instead of chasing the threads I damaged with a die, I replaced the bolts with grade 10.9 I found at my local favorite fastener place.
Thanks for the reply. I'll look for some good replacement bolts then. Right now I have the collars and bolts in, but no plate as I wait for my replacement plate. However, I did experiment with the same idea as you, leaving it on the sidestand for oil changes and plate removal/replacement in that position. What I found is that the non spring side comes out easily, but the spring side still drags the threads and has to be unscrewed.
 

blakebird

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fredz43 said:
However, I did experiment with the same idea as you, leaving it on the sidestand for oil changes and plate removal/replacement in that position.
What I found is that the non spring side comes out easily, but the spring side still drags the threads and has to be unscrewed.
There's a bracket for the exhaust header cover that is close to the right side pivot bolt.
Since the spring tension on that side makes it difficult to move the centerstand's right side by hand in all directions, you can use a screwdriver as a prybar against that bracket to hold the centerstand hole concentric with the frame lug holes.
That allows you to remove the bolt without having to 'unscrew' it due to pressure against it from the holes not being in alignment due to spring tension.

It's one of those things that after you do it....wreck a couple of threads and figure out why it happened (user error, no fault of the piece you're installing)....you wish you could start over knowing what you just learned ;)
 
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