Your Super Ténéré consumes oil?

Jsbedard1977

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I decided to stop adding oil between service some time ago to make the test and see if oil light would turn on at some point. I was looking at the oil window like many here and was skeptical about the precision of it. But unfortunately I was looking the oil level everyday going down and down progressively and never up again...always checking hot after a ride. This weekend I started the bike twice and oil light turned on...I was not seeing any oil left on the sight glass. I realized so far I need to add almost half a quart every 700 or 800 miles, this is a lot!!!. It is the first motorcycle I ever needed to add oil between services. I bought it with 67000Km and now I regret a bit my purchase. Engine was probably beaten up with low maintenance. My friend was following me as well while driving and told me the smell of the exhaust was really bad....I'm thinking about selling the bike... I pretty sure I got a lemon. If I keep the bike I would need always carry a quart of oil with me if I go out for a little travel on the weekend...almost like a 2 stroke engine:(
 
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WJBertrand

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My ‘15 doesn’t use any oil between changes every 5-6,000 miles. I have 82,000+ miles on it so far. Yamaha changed the pistons and rings in the generation 2 models. I think they did this in part to fix oil consumption issues. Is yours a pre ‘14 1st Gen? If you rebuild the top end, Yamaha only offers the Gen 2 parts now.


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Sierra1

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. . . . I realized so far I need to add almost half a quart every 700 or 800 miles, this is a lot!!!. It is the first motorcycle I ever needed to add oil between services. . . . .
You're right, that is a lot. Your is not the norm. The only bike that I've ridden with that kind of appetite was the RT; it was about a quart for the same mileage. You might have a lemon; they do exist, even at Yamaha. But, you don't know how the previous owner maintained it either.

None of the Japanese bikes that I've had ever used oil between changes. With the exception of the KLR. When ridden frequently at 80+mph, she'd get thirsty. 75mph, and below. . . . no extra oil needed.
 

StefanOnHisS10

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Sorry to hear about your problem with the bike, that’s not cool.
My gen2 doesn’t consume a single drop. She gets good maintenance but also a good workout.
 

Jlq1969

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You did not clarify what oil you are using, but although it is not normal for an engine to consume excess oil, before selling it and changing it for another… .try with another oil density. 20w50, it is also recommended by yamaha for the S10… .you can try this oil in hot seasons… ..and lower the W range in the winter. Obviously it is cheaper to sell it… .but you can do the oil test in the meantime
 

Jsbedard1977

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You did not clarify what oil you are using, but although it is not normal for an engine to consume excess oil, before selling it and changing it for another… .try with another oil density. 20w50, it is also recommended by yamaha for the S10… .you can try this oil in hot seasons… ..and lower the W range in the winter. Obviously it is cheaper to sell it… .but you can do the oil test in the meantime
Good suggestion but I tried it as well and no difference. The oil t st can tell you if engine consumes oil?
 
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SuckSqueezeBangBlow

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Just to make sure but you are waiting to check in the glass right? Takes a little while for the oil to drain back into the sump, I made that mistake once and over filled it.
 

Jsbedard1977

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Just to make sure but you are waiting to check in the glass right? Takes a little while for the oil to drain back into the sump, I made that mistake once and over filled it.
I was waiting not to check the sight glass but for the red oil light to turn on...which was the case twice especially few minutes after driving with cold engine. I stopped the bike on the side of the street, turned off the bike and started it again and oils light disappeared, not sure why exactly
 

~TABASCO~

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I have found over the years that the 12-13 tend to use a little more oil than the 14+.
In my experience and all the folks I’ve spoken to in the last ten years is this, if your going 80 mph for 8-10-12 hours straight it uses some oil. If you do mixed speeds of all types it rarely uses much or any noticeable oil. (On any year model)
I’ve seen a few engines on the inside with 100+ K miles. They all look virtually brand new. I doubt anyone could abuse this motor enough to make it burn oil. It’s so robust. If someone has a bike that is just smoking at idle and puffing out smoke it would be relatively easy to take a look and probably quickly see the issue. Several things to check out to determine if the oil is being combusted in the cylinder (maybe intake guides or rings / both easy fix) or oil being burned aft of the cylinder and leaking past the exhaust guide and just being burned on the exhaust valve or hot headers (exhaust guides are easy and inexpensive). The real cost of this ‘fix’ is the head gasket and the stretch head studs. The studs are one time use. You also need a ‘dial gauge / clocking dial’ for three of the head studs if if (3) is what I remember.
 

Don in Lodi

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Like Jaxon says, rings or guides. Rings will usually show up with a bunch of oil being blown into the air box as compression gasses blow into the crank case. Guides show up with a bunch of carbon build up, on top of the valve and really fowled spark plugs. Usually plugs fowl fast enough, bad enough to cause a missfire. In the auto side of things there are things called umbrella seals. They slide down the valve stem and slip over the casting protrusion on the head. Pretty easy to do when you pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve in place with the spring off. Pretty slick, no machine work and new guides.
 

SuckSqueezeBangBlow

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I was waiting not to check the sight glass but for the red oil light to turn on...which was the case twice especially few minutes after driving with cold engine. I stopped the bike on the side of the street, turned off the bike and started it again and oils light disappeared, not sure why exactly
I find I need to wait at least 1/2 hour after starting it for the oil to get to the proper level. All I can suggest is do an oil change yourself so you know exactly how much oil is in there and then ride it for a while, let it sit over night and see how much is left by doing another change. Other than that I am not much help!
 

Jsbedard1977

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Like Jaxon says, rings or guides. Rings will usually show up with a bunch of oil being blown into the air box as compression gasses blow into the crank case. Guides show up with a bunch of carbon build up, on top of the valve and really fowled spark plugs. Usually plugs fowl fast enough, bad enough to cause a missfire. In the auto side of things there are things called umbrella seals. They slide down the valve stem and slip over the casting protrusion on the head. Pretty easy to do when you pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve in place with the spring off. Pretty slick, no machine work and new guides.
I Indeed realized when replacing the air filter that airbox was oily so that might explain it is ring issue. So you know how garage could bill in parts plus time to replace piston and rings?
 

Jsbedard1977

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Let's say my S10 consumes oil via worn rings/pistons. Is that really bad, besides the fact I need adding oil from time to time? Can it affect other parts of the engine and create other problems? Is it possible to ride another 50K miles without any issues except adding oil every 1000 miles? Thanks
 
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magic

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Let's say my S10 consumes oil via worn rings/pistons. Is that really bad, besides the fact I need adding oil from time to time? Can it affect other parts of the engine and create other problems? Is it possible to ride another 50K miles without any issues except adding oil every 1000 miles? Thanks
The oil consumption will only get worse. If it becomes excessive you will start fouling spark plugs. Your air filter will get saturated with oil from excessive blowby and your catalytic converter may become plugged with carbon build up.
 

scott123007

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I would only start worrying about if your oil consumption became more than a quart in 500 miles. Just for reference, at 50 mpg, that would be equivalent to a two stroke running at 40 to 1. If your mpg is less than 50, your oil to gas ratio actually becomes leaner.
 
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