Winter storage

[Abercrombie tenere]

Alex, I would like "spell check" for $500.

Now that is funny right there.

 

[Abercrombie tenere]

Do what makes you happy. Yes, there will be metallic particles in the oil at 400 miles. And in the Diff oil too. Enough to make a significant difference over the life of the vehicle? I guess a lot depends on how you ride and how long you plan on keeping the bike. Yes, the exhaust waste gases are in the oil and will combine with the moisture to form acids that can etch internal engine surfaces over time. Over the winter? I don't have a clue. Nearly any reputable source will suggest you store a vehicle with clean oil for best results. The length of storage and conditions make it highly variable. Heated garage, probably a little less of an issue. Outside in a shed or under a tarp, likely more chance of negative things happening over the winter.

Regardless, I'm a fan of overkill. Hardly ever has clean oil hurt anything. Probably a tiny margin of people adding Stabil or similar to the gas ever had a negative issue. The number of people suffering complications from having a bike battery on a maintenance charger are likely pretty slim. Especially a good quality one like an Optimate.

It's your new toy. splurge and change the oil in the engine and diff. Try and fill it up with non-ethanol gas first and go for a short ride to get it into the fuel system. Toss some fuel stabilizer in there when you fill it up and invest in a good maintenance charger that can safely be left plugged into the battery w/o fear of overcharging. Come Spring, you'll be able to just un-hook the bike, roll it into the sunshine and fire it up.

Don't be tempted to fire it up every now and then in the garage. Don't fire it up at all if you're not going to go for a ride and fully warm the bike up. Avoiding the short engine run will mean you avoid the hard start issue later too.

A big +1 on all your points. Excellent advice.

 

[Millman]

Thanks for all the input and the articles. For the price of the oil change I will get it done before I put it up. I guess I misread the manual. I thought the first service was at 1000 miles and the dealer told me not to go,above 3600 rpm for the first 600 miles. Thanks again. Wish I was able to ride year round.

Millman

 

[Millman]

What do you use to protect the bike? The belray 6in 1 sounds like WD40.

Thanks.

 

[vwboomer]

Sometimes I change oil before winter, sometimes after. I suspect it doesn't matter too much. On a newer engine, there will be shavings, but they won't hurt anything just sitting there.
hell, my 530XCW still clogs the oil screens on the tranny side at 3500 miles ::025::

$25 for an oil change isn't the end of the world if you want to do it twice, I personally wouldn't change oil in fall and spring however.

As for the argument about who is a certified tech and that they know best, some of the best wrenches I know neglect their own vehicles

 

[Dogdaze]

What do you use to protect the bike? The belray 6in 1 sounds like WD40.

Thanks.

You may want to try ACF-50, Google it ::008::

 

[ace50]

If you're close to an oil change at the end of season, AND you store your bike outdoors (shed or even a unheated garage) I would definitely change it. Temperature swings throughout the day means your gas tank (which is why you store it full) and engine case breaths in and out putting moisture in that can condensate and build up. Old oil looses some of it's corrosion fighting ability and now has some acid build-up from use.

I'd also pull the battery and store inside. Batteries don't like the cold either. O

I store my bike indoors so I don't worry about those things because of the constant temp.
JMO. ::001::

Oh ya, do put something in the gas for the ethanol.

 

[rider33]

people can get very excited about oil, 'never quite sure why. My take: more often is better, particularly early on. I typically change the oil at 500 miles, 1,500 miles and then three thousand on a new bike. On the Tenere, I waited to 600 but that was within the first week and also happen to be the first service called for. Getting it in is likely better a little early as they have time and are apt to check it over which is always a good idea on a new bike. To the larger storage Q, I would suggest:
-top of the tank with non-ethenol gas if you can find it (look for places that cater to boaters)
-add FRESH stabilizer (Stablil in particular can get funky if it's been open more than a year)
-put the battery on a smart charger (battery tender etc)
-if furry beasts are a problem in your area put out traps, moth balls, dryer sheets or a boarder line psychotic cat to keep them from setting up residence in your wiring harness

The oil, the stabilized pure gas & the tender are likely so you'll feel better over the winter. On the other hand, if Mickey & Co. set up housekeeping in your bike that can get to be very, very expensive, 'trust me on that one.

 

[carrot]

Glad I'm in Texas i get to ride all 365 days

 

[rider33]

Glad I'm in Texas i get to ride all 365 days

I can too, it just takes a little more effort

 

[adventurelounger]

Apropos of winter coming...

Yesterday, I rode to the beach in shirtsleeves...

Today, I had to zip the winter liners into my riding kit...

And soon it will be time for this:http://longitudeandgratitude.com/2014/11/23/goodnight-vroom/

I posted that little ditty last year, and will share it again when it's beddy-bye time for the Tenere and cousins...

 

[FrontRangeRider]

A big +1 on all your points. Excellent advice.

+2
Based on the advice of numerous mechanics (automobile and motorcycle), I use SeaFoam as my fuel stabilizer each fall. I also use a smart charger (CTEK brand) and cycle through each vehicle or battery that isn't being driven/ used and top them off. Have never had a bike not start on first or second crank in the spring.

 

[blues bob]

I have lived in Colorado for 20 years. All my bikes have never been winterized. I double the recommended STabil, rode whenever roads are not slick. If bad roads I start them for 30 minutes every couple weeks, on the warmest day available. No battery chargers, and no heated garage. Occasionaly warmed in the sun before the start...Maybe I've just been lucky but works for me. Just put a new Yuasa in the Ten, should be good for another 3 years. Wouldn't start last week at 30 degress, good now.

 

[vwboomer]

Glad I'm in Texas i get to ride all 365 days

I winterize my bikes too!

 

[Tyke]

Cool ....ooops

I don't lay my bike up, its taxed for 12 months and always available for use ::008::

 

[Constrictor]

Waling up this old thread!

Starting to get cold here in Sweden and im about to get under the knife on Friday so no more riding for me this year..

Just washed the bike, ran it until the fan started at 105 Celsius, and put it away.. I have a lithium battery, previous owner had a service for 2000 kilometers ago this summer.. my plan is to have a oil change when the season starts and start it once in a while during winter and let it idle a couple of minutes.. Sounds ok to you guys?

 

[Sierra1]

Annnnnd this is why I put up with our months of 100+ degrees. So I do NOT have to put my bike away for months at a time. My condolences to y'all that have to.

 

[Constrictor]

Well.. this summer we had some record heat here.. like 85 degrees.. couldnt ride, to hot for protection clothing.. and now.. Winter is coming..

 

[knoxxy98]

people can get very excited about oil, 'never quite sure why. My take: more often is better, particularly early on. I typically change the oil at 500 miles, 1,500 miles and then three thousand on a new bike. On the Tenere, I waited to 600 but that was within the first week and also happen to be the first service called for. Getting it in is likely better a little early as they have time and are apt to check it over which is always a good idea on a new bike. To the larger storage Q, I would suggest:
-top of the tank with non-ethenol gas if you can find it (look for places that cater to boaters)
-add FRESH stabilizer (Stablil in particular can get funky if it's been open more than a year)
-put the battery on a smart charger (battery tender etc)
-if furry beasts are a problem in your area put out traps, moth balls, dryer sheets or a boarder line psychotic cat to keep them from setting up residence in your wiring harness

The oil, the stabilized pure gas & the tender are likely so you'll feel better over the winter. On the other hand, if Mickey & Co. set up housekeeping in your bike that can get to be very, very expensive, 'trust me on that one.

I can tell you from experience that the battery tender is absolutely necessary. A few years ago I moved even further north and my bike (pre S-Ten) was connected to a battery tender BUT I did not realize the outlet it was plugged into was a switched outlet. I went to sneak in a ride mid winter due to nice weather and dead battery. I replaced the battery and figured out I was on a switched outlet the same day. Granted that battery was near the end of it's service life but even my wife's bike (plugged in the same way) started hard.

 

[RonH]

I don't like battery tenders hooked up all winter, and in my experience they do more harm than good. An AGM battery holds a good charge for several months and I think lithium even better in this regard. My motorcycles never go in full storage, as weather can be 70 degrees in middle of January, or may be 25 below. I'm ready to ride on those 70 degree days and if the motorcycle has been sitting a month or two, just do a quick volt check. Under 12.4 charge, then ride, over 12.4 just ride.
No need, and not recommended to start during storage.
Just my opinion of course.