Winter storage

Millman

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Well the riding season is almost done here in upstate New York and I won't make the 1000 mile service till spring. I am at around 400 right now. Should I go ahead and change the engine and the rear oil now or wait till next year when I get to the 1000 mark? I haven't called been the dealer yet to see what they say but I water some background from the forum.

Thanks in advance.

Millman
 

markjenn

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Millman said:
Well the riding season is almost done here in upstate New York and I won't make the 1000 mile service till spring. I am at around 400 right now. Should I go ahead and change the engine and the rear oil now or wait till next year when I get to the 1000 mark? I haven't called been the dealer yet to see what they say but I water some background from the forum.
Six for one, half-dozen for other. I'd probably go ahead and do it now, but if you don't want to bother, nothing bad will happen. Dealer is probably a lot less busy now too.

Thought first service was 600-miles, but maybe things have changed.

- Mark
 

caillou

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First service is 600.
I would definitely do it now, for several reasons, but the 2 main ones are dealer less busy now than in Spring and when Spring will be back, the only thing you will want is ride, ride, ride and dealer may be overbooked.
 

Checkswrecks

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Do it now for two tech reasons. One is that the initial oil has the chips and flakes that parts in a brand new engine will shed. Second is that especially where engines can gain moisture from condensation, like where you are, very dilute acids are created when the moisture reacts with the exhaust from combustion.


And you'll want to ride asap in the spring.
 

mrpete64

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Make sure you hook your bike's battery up to a trickle charger for the winter. Also, put some star Tron in the tank and fill it up with gas. If you have a Stewart's near you you can get non ethanol high test gas. I use it and notice a significant increase in gas mileage.

Mr. Pete-------->
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rem

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Checkswrecks said:
Do it now for two tech reasons. One is that the initial oil has the chips and flakes that parts in a brand new engine will shed. Second is that especially where engines can gain moisture from condensation, like where you are, very dilute acids are created when the moisture reacts with the exhaust from combustion.


And you'll want to ride asap in the spring.

::008:: ::008:: What he said .... and your bike will love you for it as well. Regarding adding additives to the gas tank, either do it during a fill up so it mixes well, or mix the stuff in the gas before you put it in the tank. R
 

bosancero

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I WOULD NOT DO IT NOW !! WAIT FOR WINTER TO PASS . YOUR NEW OIL WILL ACUMULATE MOISTURE OVER THE WINTER AND YOU WAISTED YOUR MONEY.AS FOR METAL SHAVINGS THOSE DAYS ARE OVER!
WAIT TIL SPRING AND DO THE FRESH OIL CHANGE AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.
 

Checkswrecks

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bosancero said:
I WOULD NOT DO IT NOW !! WAIT FOR WINTER TO PASS . YOUR NEW OIL WILL ACUMULATE MOISTURE OVER THE WINTER AND YOU WAISTED YOUR MONEY.AS FOR METAL SHAVINGS THOSE DAYS ARE OVER!
WAIT TIL SPRING AND DO THE FRESH OIL CHANGE AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.

Ummm welcome aboard with your first post?


The owner's manual notes that shavings will accumulate for the first 1,000 miles, which is consistent with the following quick inter tube plot from a Ford F150. Note on the plot where the OP is at 400 miles.






In aviation where we do oil analysis we find metal continues to trend downward after more than the initial oil change, and so I'm not sure where you got "those days are over."


As for whether to change the oil or not, don't take just my word for it. In answer to the OP question, try these first pop-ups from a quick Google search:
http://www.belray.com/winter-storage-recommendations
http://www.roadrunner.travel/magazine/read/november-december-2004/page/68/
http://www.motorex.com/index.cfm?oid=1993&lang=en
http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2390335


While your owners manual doesn't specifically say to change the oil, it does call for lubing the cylinders.
 

Abercrombie tenere

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bosancero said:
I WOULD NOT DO IT NOW !! WAIT FOR WINTER TO PASS . YOUR NEW OIL WILL ACUMULATE MOISTURE OVER THE WINTER AND YOU WAISTED YOUR MONEY.AS FOR METAL SHAVINGS THOSE DAYS ARE OVER!
WAIT TIL SPRING AND DO THE FRESH OIL CHANGE AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO.
Leave the oil in there, Hmmm? That advice is in direct opposition to any advice I have heard or read on the subject from anyone that knows anything. And as for the Metal shavings, you have obviously never taken an oil pan from a first oil change out into the sun and given it a good swirl to see all the metal suspended in the oil. After performing my first early oil change years ago, and seeing the amount of metal in the oil, I can not bear to even leave the oil in a new engine for 600 miles.
 

rem

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Checkswrecks said:
I hate you.

::003::

I'm thinking loathe ....... R
 

bosancero

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I knew we would have expert answer when the oil change would have to be done .He was talking about his motor cycle not airplane lol.
I happened to be certified Yamaha tech with many years of experience and in REAL life never saw any failures do to very small amount of shavings
If any.....maybe F 150 or aviation is different story.
As for lubing cylinders I am very glad we have people like Checkwreks that can educate us on what is used to lube cylinders on cars and motorcycles.
 

bosancero

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Abercrombie Tenere said:
Leave the oil in there, Hmmm? That advice is in direct opposition to any advice I have heard or read on the subject from anyone that knows anything. And as for the Metal shavings, you have obviously never taken an oil pan from a first oil change out into the sun and given it a good swirl to see all the metal suspended in the oil. After performing my first early oil change years ago, and seeing the amount of metal in the oil, I can not bear to even leave the oil in a new engine for 600 miles.
Yes level the oil til spring! What's the point of changing oil and leaving the bike parked for monts!
Once the winter is over change the oil..that simple
 

EricV

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Do what makes you happy. Yes, there will be metallic particles in the oil at 400 miles. And in the Diff oil too. Enough to make a significant difference over the life of the vehicle? I guess a lot depends on how you ride and how long you plan on keeping the bike. Yes, the exhaust waste gases are in the oil and will combine with the moisture to form acids that can etch internal engine surfaces over time. Over the winter? I don't have a clue. Nearly any reputable source will suggest you store a vehicle with clean oil for best results. The length of storage and conditions make it highly variable. Heated garage, probably a little less of an issue. Outside in a shed or under a tarp, likely more chance of negative things happening over the winter.

Regardless, I'm a fan of overkill. :D Hardly ever has clean oil hurt anything. Probably a tiny margin of people adding Stabil or similar to the gas ever had a negative issue. The number of people suffering complications from having a bike battery on a maintenance charger are likely pretty slim. Especially a good quality one like an Optimate.

It's your new toy. splurge and change the oil in the engine and diff. Try and fill it up with non-ethanol gas first and go for a short ride to get it into the fuel system. Toss some fuel stabilizer in there when you fill it up and invest in a good maintenance charger that can safely be left plugged into the battery w/o fear of overcharging. Come Spring, you'll be able to just un-hook the bike, roll it into the sunshine and fire it up.

Don't be tempted to fire it up every now and then in the garage. Don't fire it up at all if you're not going to go for a ride and fully warm the bike up. Avoiding the short engine run will mean you avoid the hard start issue later too.
 

Checkswrecks

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bosancero said:
...He was talking about his motor cycle not airplane lol.
...
I happened to be certified Yamaha tech with many years of experience
...

Do whatever you want with your own bike, and there can be more than one opinion. I gave you some support for what I wrote, so do you have something more than your own experience?


btw, I worked in a Suzuki-Triumph shop to get through school for my airframe & power plant licenses, and have rebuilt & flipped a lot of vehicles over the years. As for the forum, attack the argument and not the individual.
 

bosancero

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guys guys lol
All i was saying is to wait for oil change. bike will be stored and i dint see point of waisting money on oil change that will sit in the garage.It was a personal opininion and that was it!
i ride my bike on daily bases and it is my only type of transportation here in CA.We are lucky here that can ride year round.There is over 100k on it and i have done all my maintenace and repairs ::008:: ::008:: if i was storing the bike i would live the oil alone til time came to ride.(personal opinion again)
my point is ... it was my opinion nothing else.I didnt ask for education materials or lessons it was only opinion!
The forum is great and you guys rock but sometimes simple question or opinion gets blown out of proportions.
cheers. ::008::
 
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