What you did to your Tenere today??!!

Bryn

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Dashed home from work and opened the box containing my new Zumo 590 LM....to find they'd sent me a Zumo 340 ::009::

So that's back in the post ::007::
 

BaldKnob

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Boondocker said:
Does anyone know if the wheel bearings are serviceable (as in clean and repack) or are they sealed (as in replace only)? The factory service manual only indicates replacement.

42,000 miles on my 2012.

58,000 miles on my 2012, wheel bearings still holding up. No service needed, do check them (tire changes) and if you need to replace them... carefully expose the ball bearings and pack grease in there prior to seating them in your hub. There is always time for lubrication.
 

Boondocker

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I'm not sure I understand your post. Are you suggesting to "repack" new bearing before installing them?
A. I would hope to not have to service a brand new part.
B. That would suggest that I could service the old part, assuming it was worth servicing.

BaldKnob said:
58,000 miles on my 2012, wheel bearings still holding up. No service needed, do check them (tire changes) and if you need to replace them... carefully expose the ball bearings and pack grease in there prior to seating them in your hub. There is always time for lubrication.
 

BaldKnob

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Boondocker said:
I'm not sure I understand your post. Are you suggesting to "repack" new bearing before installing them?
A. I would hope to not have to service a brand new part.
B. That would suggest that I could service the old part, assuming it was worth servicing.
Falls back on the premise, if it isn't broke... I wouldn't mess with it. You would most likely damage the dust seals covering the bearing. Better to keep an eye on the wheel and replace it all when needed.

I've bought bearings from All Balls, Pivot Works and OEM. In most cases there is plenty of grease but there have been some that need it. It takes mere minutes to have a little piece of mind.
 

Don in Lodi

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BaldKnob said:
Falls back on the premise, if it isn't broke... I wouldn't mess with it. You would most likely damage the dust seals covering the bearing. Better to keep an eye on the wheel and replace it all when needed.

I've bought bearings from All Balls, Pivot Works and OEM. In most cases there is plenty of grease but there have been some that need it. It takes mere minutes to have a little piece of mind.
From one breath to the next. ::024::
I believe the Industry refers to these as 'Sealed Bearings' for some reason. I'll be changing mine out whether they need it or not at 100k. ::008::
 
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Installed the Alt Rider skid plate...thankfully I did the oil also as this plate will make it a bit harder to do next one. I have to say the fit and finish is well done. One thing I would like to see is a smaller access panel that could be removed to get access to the filter instead of having to remove the whole thing, or at least it seems you'll have to.
 

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Koinz

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BaldKnob said:
Falls back on the premise, if it isn't broke... I wouldn't mess with it. You would most likely damage the dust seals covering the bearing. Better to keep an eye on the wheel and replace it all when needed.

I've bought bearings from All Balls, Pivot Works and OEM. In most cases there is plenty of grease but there have been some that need it. It takes mere minutes to have a little piece of mind.
I have greased noisy idler bearings by popping off the dust seal and giving them some lube. Nothing wrong with the bearing itself other than being a little dry. Use a small pick or tiny screwdriver to pop them off.
Not sure I would mess with the wheel bearing. I just purchased a couple of oem wheel bearings for the front. Just haven't had a chance to replace them yet. They were only 10.00 a piece so worth the purchase.
 

Mellow

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SingleTrackMind said:
Installed the Alt Rider skid plate...thankfully I did the oil also as this plate will make it a bit harder to do next one. I have to say the fit and finish is well done. One thing I would like to see is a smaller access panel that could be removed to get access to the filter instead of having to remove the whole thing, or at least it seems you'll have to.
You can change the oil and filter without removing it but it can be messy so I just remove mine.
 
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Mellow said:
You can change the oil and filter without removing it but it can be messy so I just remove mine.
Maybe if a person layered the area between the plate and bike with newspaper and paper towels to catch the drips. Anything to avoid those freaking washers and nuts.
 

Boondocker

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I changed oil and filter with the AltRider skid plate on - once. I tried lining it and all that, but it was a mess. It's far less frustrating to just remove the plate and probably a time saver as well. It's only 7 bolts. Granted the 2 little ones on the front, right side can be fiddly. Magnet on a stick is part of my oil change tool kit because I always drop those washers and nuts on the pan. I don't even cuss about it any more, just pick 'em up with the magnet and try again.

Mellow said:
You can change the oil and filter without removing it but it can be messy so I just remove mine.
 

coastie

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Boondocker said:
I changed oil and filter with the AltRider skid plate on - once. I tried lining it and all that, but it was a mess. It's far less frustrating to just remove the plate and probably a time saver as well. It's only 7 bolts. Granted the 2 little ones on the front, right side can be fiddly. Magnet on a stick is part of my oil change tool kit because I always drop those washers and nuts on the pan. I don't even cuss about it any more, just pick 'em up with the magnet and try again.

I put the washer on, with a pair of needle nose pliers.
 

EJV

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SingleTrackMind said:
Installed the Alt Rider skid plate...thankfully I did the oil also as this plate will make it a bit harder to do next one. I have to say the fit and finish is well done. One thing I would like to see is a smaller access panel that could be removed to get access to the filter instead of having to remove the whole thing, or at least it seems you'll have to.

Easy Alt Rider Skid Plate Removal.
Nut Plates are awesome.

Do this:





I had everything "bolted together" then, used a sharpie to mark where the nut plates were (rough). Once I took it apart, no prob. Centered the tabs, drilled tiny holes and popped them in. I could only find the nut plates in NOT metric, so, new bolts. Uses the same AltRider Washer things. I hogged out the left front brace to the "larger nut plates". (I should have hunted for smaller ones, nah, project got done.)

Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies ( www.PegasusAutoRacing.com )
-640-AA-42C100 1/8 countersunk pop rivet 0 - 1/8 grip
-640-AA-44C100 1/8 countersunk pop rivet 1/8 - 1/4 grip
-MS21059-5 5/16-24 Self-Locking Nut plate, floating (typical Aircraft part)

BoltDepot ( BoltDepot.com )
-5778 Socket flat head, stainless steel 18-8,5/16"-24x1
 

MotoMachines

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Mellow said:
You can change the oil and filter without removing it but it can be messy so I just remove mine.
Absolutely. I'd rather do the little bit of extra work rather than curse myself as I sink down deeper into an oil filled oblivion.
 

barkingllizard

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@ The Party @ The End Of The World
rode 650 kms, Calgary AB to Sundre, Rocky Mountain House, Nordegg,
Saskatchewan River Crossing, Lake Louise, Banff, Canmore, Calgary...
7 hours riding time, $9.80 National Park Day Pass, saw only one grizzly bear and one black bear...
and a whole lot of motorcycles, 20 to 1 over motorhomes.....
 
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