Ss1
Well-Known Member
I don't really like to interfere with the factory constructive Yes, and there is little sense from the oiler, you still need to disassemble and look.
What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
Ss1
Well-Known Member
I really like how harmoniously the Mexican flag looks on your plastic
eemsreno
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Not today but yesterday.
It snowed all day yesterday so I went to work on the 12 Tenere.
Checked the valves, it's been 56,000 miles since last checked and adjusted. No adjustments needed.
Sinked throttle bodies, New air filter , new plugs, fork oil,
While I was in there I replaced the thermostat.
when it's 25* out the bikes coolant temp reads 135* The 2017 reads 145* at 25* out. Neither bike is getting close to the operating temp it should. I'm making some air intake shut off flaps to cover over the big ram air holes, I'll see if that helps.
This fall I was traveling on an interstate "don't tell anyone" and it was about 90* out, my bike started running up to fan turn on temp then would slowly cool back down some then back up, I stopped and checked my coolant level and all was good so I let it cool down good then it was working fine only running about 180* so I think it had some thermostat problem then and I have been wanting to replace it.
Today it might get a new front tire, the Mitas E07 on there has about 24,000 miles and it really isn't that bad yet. I'll save it for an emergence.
It snowed all day yesterday so I went to work on the 12 Tenere.
Checked the valves, it's been 56,000 miles since last checked and adjusted. No adjustments needed.
Sinked throttle bodies, New air filter , new plugs, fork oil,
While I was in there I replaced the thermostat.
when it's 25* out the bikes coolant temp reads 135* The 2017 reads 145* at 25* out. Neither bike is getting close to the operating temp it should. I'm making some air intake shut off flaps to cover over the big ram air holes, I'll see if that helps.
This fall I was traveling on an interstate "don't tell anyone" and it was about 90* out, my bike started running up to fan turn on temp then would slowly cool back down some then back up, I stopped and checked my coolant level and all was good so I let it cool down good then it was working fine only running about 180* so I think it had some thermostat problem then and I have been wanting to replace it.
Today it might get a new front tire, the Mitas E07 on there has about 24,000 miles and it really isn't that bad yet. I'll save it for an emergence.
Johnwesley
Well-Known Member
I hooked up my old 395 garmin. Need to order the factory fog light connector so can run it switched without messing with the factory harness. Right now it’s straight to the battery.
PineLaneRider
Well-Known Member
Give up on the tablet already?
Johnwesley
Well-Known Member
O No, waiting on the mount for it. Been using the tab on n the car to get a feel for it. I’ll run both until I feel I can go with just a tablet. For me the gps is a known, so I’ll keep it until the tab is a known. One of the apps tells me no WiFi yet still puts me in the map in the right place, I figure it can’t route without the net. I’ll have to double check. If so it goes to the bin and that rules one out.
Last edited:
I hooked my TomTom up to the 12v power outlet underside. So now it switches with the key, put a fuse between it. Maybe you’ll like this solution.
Stefan
Electrolyse
Active Member
I can do that, gimme your adressIf anyone feels the need to get me a Christmas gift, I NEED this ! I'll provide shipping address !Ha-Ha !
On a serious note, does look like a really useful tool. Thanks for sharing that.
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
I order one for me, and one for each son, the same day it was posted on here. Initially, I'll give it four stars. The tray/holder it comes in needs something to keep the sockets from falling out. Other than that, it seems good, and solid.
And what is the price for one? Could be handy for on the road but not convinced yet.
Stefan.
$29.97usd @ Home Depot. I would imagine that y'all have a version of Home Depot. I like that it's actual Crescent brand. The bar across the top of the sockets is for shipping only. It has to be removed to use a socket, but can not be put back in place.
I had to google that but yes we’ve got some similar companies. That price ain’t to bad, and I’m sure eBay or Amazon is willing to sell me it. I’ll think about it.
Thanks Rob!
Stefan
Thanks Rob!
Stefan
So was Home Depot. I was surprised that Amazon didn't have the best price, and Home Depot had free shipping.
Ss1
Well-Known Member
And everything is fine?
eemsreno
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Electrolyse
Active Member
I found an easier fix. . . . don't ride at that temperature.
Then the bike works fine. It was horrible riding at those temps. Of course I couldn't wear "proper" cold weather gear either.
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
Service notice: Ha-ha
I bought in a set of wheel bearings to change for preventive measures. (winter strip down of the whole bike)
Last night had the rear wheel / swing arm off and got to the point of looking at the rear bearings. I have the bearings and moving on to change them out. The non-side drive was crunchy. It has divots (feeling) in that bearing. WOW, not good. The drive seems to be “OK”
Lucky that sucker didn’t blow up. A friend had this same bearing blow up while deep in the woods of Arkansas a few months ago. That ‘ordeal’ cost him about $1000 after it was said and done fixing it.
My suggestion is change that bearing out about every 30-40k miles. It’s easy to do and cost $20
It’s the non-drive side on the rear wheel. (Brake side). If you are stubborn and don’t fix parts unless they are broken, please keep a close eye on this bearing. My good friend that has 115K on his Tenere, is on his third (#3) bearing. First: blew up and turned to dust. Second: was really crunchy and crusty (about to fail). Third: failed a few months ago in Arkansas. They are averaging 38-40K miles on that one bearing.
I’ve checked all other surrounding parts. Everything is in spec.
Just another friendly reminder to please keep an eye on this wheel bearing. Might strand you and cost you over $1000 to fix.
$20 sounds like a good idea. LOL
#3 seems to be the issue.
I bought in a set of wheel bearings to change for preventive measures. (winter strip down of the whole bike)
Last night had the rear wheel / swing arm off and got to the point of looking at the rear bearings. I have the bearings and moving on to change them out. The non-side drive was crunchy. It has divots (feeling) in that bearing. WOW, not good. The drive seems to be “OK”
Lucky that sucker didn’t blow up. A friend had this same bearing blow up while deep in the woods of Arkansas a few months ago. That ‘ordeal’ cost him about $1000 after it was said and done fixing it.
My suggestion is change that bearing out about every 30-40k miles. It’s easy to do and cost $20
It’s the non-drive side on the rear wheel. (Brake side). If you are stubborn and don’t fix parts unless they are broken, please keep a close eye on this bearing. My good friend that has 115K on his Tenere, is on his third (#3) bearing. First: blew up and turned to dust. Second: was really crunchy and crusty (about to fail). Third: failed a few months ago in Arkansas. They are averaging 38-40K miles on that one bearing.
I’ve checked all other surrounding parts. Everything is in spec.
Just another friendly reminder to please keep an eye on this wheel bearing. Might strand you and cost you over $1000 to fix.
$20 sounds like a good idea. LOL
#3 seems to be the issue.
Last edited: