What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[mebgardner]

I had they same thing but my right side screw was seized. I spend an afternoon drilling and digging out the screw head. There was a time I thought this is looking very expensive but I kept going until I could see some clean thread. Then I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. I ended up removing the entire head of the set screw in tiny little pieces with a fine screwdriver chiseling them out.
I did break a small part out the casing but not enough to cause a problem. I could feel the spring moving once the threads were clear . I pulled the spring out and thankfully the seat was untouched and I had enough thread to fit new screw set with seal.

All this was done with the throttle bodies on the bench. I'm very pleased to say all is working well. Though I still cant get them to balance properly. But at least both screws are adjustable if needed.

Ugh. Did you ever figure out why it seized? Rust?

What did you do to prevent it occurring again? (You mention something about a seal, I think you're referring to the rubber nipple cover, but I'm not sure).

Do you know why they wont balance, or anything about the cause of that problem?

Lastly, what year model cycle are we looking at?

 

[Don in Lodi]

I had they same thing but my right side screw was seized. I spend an afternoon drilling and digging out the screw head. There was a time I thought this is looking very expensive but I kept going until I could see some clean thread. Then I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. I ended up removing the entire head of the set screw in tiny little pieces with a fine screwdriver chiseling them out.
I did break a small part out the casing but not enough to cause a problem. I could feel the spring moving once the threads were clear . I pulled the spring out and thankfully the seat was untouched and I had enough thread to fit new screw set with seal.

All this was done with the throttle bodies on the bench. I'm very pleased to say all is working well. Though I still cant get them to balance properly. But at least both screws are adjustable if needed.

Two dissimilar metals, brass and an aluminum alloy, introduce salt water and you could have gotten some serious oxidation.

 

[mebgardner]

Two dissimilar metals, brass and an aluminum alloy, introduce salt water and you could have gotten some serious oxidation.

OK, Thanks Don. What I just learned is, there's another reason to perform the TB sync, and that is to move the adjustment screws so that they do not seize from oxidation. All of them. Including the reference side. I keep learning from you folks, so... Thank You!

So to not hijack this thread any further, would you please point me at the thread that gives advice about the areas of the cycle that need a bit more attention after getting wet? Like, after travelling through a soaking rain, or washing? I remember such a thread being mentioned, or maybe it was just someone mentioning "pay attention to these areas after getting it wet." If it does not exist, we could start one, and add this TB set screw idea, to it as a starter.

 

[Checkswrecks]

OK, Thanks Don. What I just learned is, there's another reason to perform the TB sync, and that is to move the adjustment screws so that they do not seize from oxidation. All of them. Including the reference side. I keep learning from you folks, so... Thank You!

So to not hijack this thread any further, would you please point me at the thread that gives advice about the areas of the cycle that need a bit more attention after getting wet? Like, after travelling through a soaking rain, or washing? I remember such a thread being mentioned, or maybe it was just someone mentioning "pay attention to these areas after getting it wet." If it does not exist, we could start one, and add this TB set screw idea, to it as a starter.

I don't think we have one all-up thread about corrosion prevention or post getting wet. Feel free to start any thread you want.

fwiw - A bunch of us ride in rain regularly and seldom wash the bike. It just keeps on going.

 

[Scrogs10]

My bike is a 2013 euro model I assume as I'm in the U.K.
I thought the set screw was loctite in place but I tried heat but it has no affect.
The seal I reffered to is under a tiny washer below the screw and spring.
I couldn't get the throttle body sync because I think there is too much vacuum for my ball bearing type balancer. The ball bounces rapidly side to side with the engine pulses.

 

[ace50]

My bike is a 2013 euro model I assume as I'm in the U.K.
I thought the set screw was loctite in place but I tried heat but it has no affect.
The seal I reffered to is under a tiny washer below the screw and spring.
I couldn't get the throttle body sync because I think there is too much vacuum for my ball bearing type balancer. The ball bounces rapidly side to side with the engine pulses.

You just need to center it between it's travel or you can pinch the line a little to get it to minimize it's movement.

 

[Don in Lodi]

My bike is a 2013 euro model I assume as I'm in the U.K.
I thought the set screw was loctite in place but I tried heat but it has no affect.
The seal I reffered to is under a tiny washer below the screw and spring.
I couldn't get the throttle body sync because I think there is too much vacuum for my ball bearing type balancer. The ball bounces rapidly side to side with the engine pulses.

Yep, the lines should have a restriction of some sort added to them to stabilize the reading. We just had a gent with a second hand manometer that he couldn't get to work right. He discovered the previous user didn't install the restrictions in both lines. A quick confirmation would be to swap the lines from one side to the other and see if your unusual reading follows the hose.
Oh yeah, don't put your bike away wet. Let the motor run long enough to dry off. On a trip, rain fall, creek crossings, that's ok. It's the long term over an over again wet storage that provides the environment for oxidation. If a known exposure to salts or acids has occurred, fresh water is your friend. I know some park in locations where a fresh water source is not available. Life is tough sometimes.

 

[Sierra1]

I got to TRY and jump-start my bike today. After being a total dumb ass and leaving my key on for about an hour, I returned to find the bike not wanting to start. No surprise, since the headlights stay on when you kill the engine after a ride. Due to prior experience with a high compression big twin, 1150RT-P, I knew that push starting was going to be difficult. Even with a slight down hill grade, and my son pushing, it would not start; not enough traction. Luckily a buddy with jumper cables came to the rescue. The silver lining was that I found that I can remove my side panel(s) w/o having to remove my Mastec bars. All I had to do was hold the cable clamps up against the terminals, and it started right up. I hate learning by trial and error; I prefer learning by other errors.

 

[ace50]

What gear did you have it in to push start it?

 

[Sierra1]

2nd. That's what I've always used before, but that was on inline fours.

 

[ace50]

I think I would have tried 3rd with this engine.

 

[snakebitten]

If my battery was dead and I didn't have one of them fancy boosters at hand, I'm camping until someone with jumper cables comes along.

Maybe if there were 4 or 5 of you big dudes volunteering to push me, I'd give the bump start a try.
But I'm not burning one calorie of my senior citizen sized (pathetic) metabolism thinking I can push start this beast.
That's the devil himself tempting such an effort.

 

[Defekticon]

I got to TRY and jump-start my bike today. After being a total dumb ass and leaving my key on for about an hour, I returned to find the bike not wanting to start. No surprise, since the headlights stay on when you kill the engine after a ride. Due to prior experience with a high compression big twin, 1150RT-P, I knew that push starting was going to be difficult. Even with a slight down hill grade, and my son pushing, it would not start; not enough traction. Luckily a buddy with jumper cables came to the rescue. The silver lining was that I found that I can remove my side panel(s) w/o having to remove my Mastec bars. All I had to do was hold the cable clamps up against the terminals, and it started right up. I hate learning by trial and error; I prefer learning by other errors.

https://www.amazon.com/Starter-RAVPower-14000mAh-Booster-Flashlight/dp/B01C7746H6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497647402&sr=8-1&keywords=ravpower+jump+start

I have an older version of this little jump box. I now consider this to be an essential piece of kit. I think it was 47.99 on sale, and they drop the price quite often if you can catch 'em during a sale. I thoroughly believe just having it on the bike wards off any chance of the battery going flat.

 

[mebgardner]

Defekticon:

How do you keep your's charged, and do you have a permanent battery connection if / when you need to use it?

 

[Defekticon]

Defekticon:

How do you keep your's charged, and do you have a permanent battery connection if / when you need to use it?

It holds a charge for a long period of time. I was able to jump my KTM after not charging for >6 months sitting in my pannier. It's a lithium ion battery which has a flat discharge rate. I've considered taking an SAE plug and cutting the fuse out of it in order to make a remote jump wire to connect to the battery without taking off the side panel, but I usually don't have to jump it very often, and the side panel is easy to remove, even with the alt rider crash bars.

 

[Don in Lodi]

I've got a set of booster cables in the bottom of a pannier. ::008::

 

[mebgardner]

I can tell you to not bother with the cut-off SAE wiring. It will melt / burn before starting the cycle.

Or, it will just not pass enough current, and will appear as if the lithium backup, is not doing the job, when in fact it would be the wiring is inadequate.

You need something like what Don carries, but wire that in directly. Not an easy task...

 

[Davesax36]

Not all today but over the past 2 weeks. This is my 3rd Tenere so I had a pretty good idea what works for me as far as farkles go.

I bought it.

I went with Givi crash bars this time. I had Hepco Becker on my last 2 S-10's and I wanted to try something different.

As far as comfort for me, I like grip puppies to fatten up the bars and tech specs so I can grip the tank when I'm flogging the bike around twisters.

.

.
My first S-10 I had Jesse bags and the second I had givi trekkers I think. This time I went with the OEM Yamaha bags. I got them for a bargain and they fit the bike well. If I need more room I'll just strap a duffel to the back.

.
Got the 600 mile service done at the dealer and ran it up past 800 miles afterwards today.
Still deciding which skid plate to go with. I had the H & B the last 2 times and it worked well but we'll see.
I ordered the rubber spacers for the seat mod today.

Love this bike...


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Which bead Rider rider is that?

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[AVGeek]

If my battery was dead and I didn't have one of them fancy boosters at hand, I'm camping until someone with jumper cables comes along.

Maybe if there were 4 or 5 of you big dudes volunteering to push me, I'd give the bump start a try.
But I'm not burning one calorie of my senior citizen sized (pathetic) metabolism thinking I can push start this beast.
That's the devil himself tempting such an effort.

Batteries don't last long in the desert, so when mine decided to die, I was of course on a trip (in Vegas, was living in Phoenix at the time), and had no choice but to push start it a couple of times until I could get to a battery store...I found that you can disable the ABS this way too!

 

[bnschroder]

Checked spark plugs and for the first time since owning this bike wished I had a Boxer.
They looked ok and gaps were in spec after 12k so I put them back in.


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