The Tenere made me do it - WR250R

avc8130

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Yamaguy55 said:
You can find them around here for 3500-4500 in nice shape, low miles, and if modified, not the mods you want to remove. Keep looking at craigs list.
I got mine in 2009 with 160 miles on it for 4200 bucks, roughly $100.00 off for each mile from new retail price. very durable, very good and well thought out motorcycle. the engine is so tough that Graves Performance group is using this engine for their Moto-3 bike, not the other off road model will the spotty durability.
If you spot one on your local Craigslist, let me know. You aren't too far from me...~2 hours.

ac
 

avc8130

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snakebitten said:
I agree that growing up on dirt-bikes probably has a huge impact on why the S10 is just a HUGE dirt-bike to me. :)

Really, that's what it is. And while it has its obvious compromises in ground clearance and weight, I find it incredibly poised for dirt-work, considering.
(I firmly believe off-road tires play a big part off-road, whether its a WRR or an S10)

But regardless of the S10 off-road prowess, I feel its biggest flaw is simply the potential damage it can sustain if it falls wrong. The dirt-bikes of the WRR type are far more crash worthy.

As a result, I do back off a bit in attack-mode on the Big Pig vs say, the DRZ. Less to protect me. More to protect the Beast.
A set of handguards, a folding shifter, a brake snake, a skid plate and a pair of radiator guards and you can pretty much throw a modern dirt bike on the ground all day and as long as you don't hurt yourself you will be riding it home.

The S10...well...F=MA and she's got a LOT of M.

ac
 

Dirt_Dad

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trikepilot said:
I even attended the DirtDad offroad riding seminar at Seneca Rocks back in the early fall.
The front office is still processing your request for a refund. Check will be in the mail soon.


trikepilot said:
Dirtdad has his geared much taller and it will pop wheelies and really pull down low. However, his mpg was dramatically less than my stock bike.
Yes, my mileage was far lower than Trikepilot's bike. I don't know how much of that is attributed to the lowered gearing and fuel computer vs my habit of riding at high RPM. I'm more suspicious of my RPM habits since my Teneres also get bad mileage compared to numbers reported by others.

RonH is right in that everyone should ride one for themselves to make a decision. When I test rode my WR before purchase I was overwhelmingly unimpressed with the engine performance. I was satisfied with the basic ergonomics of the bike and I rolled the dice that I would be able to upgrade the performance enough to make it work for me. It turned out to be a good gamble for now.

Personally, if I were responsible for teaching a tall noob how to ride dirt, I would not hesitate to put them on a WR. Below high RPMs the engine is extremely easy to manage. It may only become a handful if you push the RPMs beyond where most people shift. Just like the Tenere, the basic ergonomics can be tweaked with bar risers and after market seats. For me, I've decided the stock seat is just fine for all day riding.
 

Yamaguy55

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fredz43 said:
Wow, a $16,000 savings. You done good. ;)

Hey, everybody loves a smart arse, don't they? ;D
What, you expect math skills AND good looks?

Nuts!
 

Yamaguy55

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Maybe it is the altitude, but mine is nothing like that. And my engine/emission stuff is stock. I'm at much lower elevation.
 

Dirt_Dad

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Boostedxt said:
My biggest concern is the fueling and the power here at altitude. My house is 5400ft and our passes are above 10,000. My concern is power and being gutless.
I hadn't thought about that. The bike is no powerhouse at sea level. The lowered gearing and fuel controller do move it into the "fun" category at sea level, but still far from being impressive performance. At 10K feet I'm not sure what you'd get out of it. Probably best to ask around locally to see if anyone is using it. My suspicion is you probably don't find many of those up around the 2 mile mark. Just a hunch.
 

trikepilot

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DirtDad - Refund? No comprende? I got every penny's worth.

I was hoping to convince you to let me enroll in the advanced class soon. As of Friday, I will be unemployed through early to mid Dec when I move.

Drag the WR over here to the NRG and let's explore for a few days. No camping required - accommodations taken care of.
 

Dirt_Dad

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trikepilot said:
I was hoping to convince you to let me enroll in the advanced class soon.
Hmmm...haven't taught the advanced class in more than 11 years. My wife was my last student back in 2002. Here she is during the "make a jump out of anything" lesson. She was a very good student.



I suspect I don't have any overnighters left for this year in my "good will from my wife" bag of tricks. Maybe in December, but that's hit or miss with weather. I suspect I will not make it to NRB this year with the WR.

Probably will get only one more trip to here if I'm lucky. http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/gwj/passes-permits/?cid=fsbdev3_000477
 

avc8130

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Darn Teneres! Mine is a manipulative machine too:



I have only taken it for a quick ride around the yard. The suspension is going to need some help to cope with me. The front end is very twitchy and really wanted to push when turning.

ac
 

Dirt_Dad

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Congrats, you're journey has begun.

Yes, the front end is twitchy. I hear putting WR450 forks takes care of that. I've just learned to live with it.
 

avc8130

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Dirt_Dad said:
Congrats, you're journey has begun.

Yes, the front end it twitchy. I hear putting WR400 forks takes care of that. I've just learned to live with it.
I've got all the components for the Scotts steering damper except the damper itself. Think that might help?

ac
 

Paul466

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Did you set proper sag? Cheap fix is to get proper springs dont have to mess with valving on a trail bike in my opinion. Especially fork springs and manipulate oil level to your liking This will keep the fork creating a stinkbug stance where front end is lower than rear also by playing with oil level will give you small bump complince. Good luck!
 

avc8130

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Paul466 said:
Did you set proper sag? Cheap fix is to get proper springs dont have to mess with valving on a trail bike in my opinion. Especially fork springs and manipulate oil level to your liking This will keep the fork creating a stinkbug stance where front end is lower than rear also by playing with oil level will give you small bump complince. Good luck!
Haven't touched a thing.

What is proper sag on a dirt bike? No adjustment up front, right?

I weigh 250 so my lb/cc ratio is 1. LOL

ac
 

Paul466

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Sag is how much your bike compreses under riders weight. Bike like wr250 comes with springs set for a 150 lb rider MAX Once you have correct springs the collars on top of your shock springs are adjustements to compress the spring to the proper sag Mx bikes usually run 100mm of sag check to make sure that applies to your bike. Also some forks come with the same system just like your ST you know Preload adjusters? Its the same principal
 

avc8130

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Paul466 said:
Sag is how much your bike compreses under riders weight. Bike like wr250 comes with springs set for a 150 lb rider MAX Once you have correct springs the collars on top of your shock springs are adjustements to compress the spring to the proper sag Mx bikes usually run 100mm of sag check to make sure that applies to your bike. Also some forks come with the same system just like your ST you know Preload adjusters? Its the same principal
Trust me, I know what sag is. I've helped countless Tenerista's setup their bikes. I'm just a bit perplexed on the dirt bike. Things are a tad different.

No preload adjusters on the WR.

100mm on the rear seems to be the number I find on the net. I'll check it tomorrow. I'm SURE I will need new springs. Now to try to find a reference to figure out what rate I need.

ac
 

avc8130

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Paul466 said:
Check out your manual they should list optional spring rates if not thumpertalk will give you quick anwer im sure!
Bought used, no manual. Time to search for a .pdf.

ac
 
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