Swingarm Bushing/bearing death

trikepilot

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OK... I felt that I "needed" to check my swingarm and shock bushings before a busy riding season. It is just one of those sixth-sense things! I bought the bike used and it now has 13760 miles on it. I know the last almost 7k miles of mine have not been easy, but I have no clue what the first owner rode it or maintained. So I started into the job thanks to great tutorials from BWC and GregThePole from here at the forum.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=7138.msg121456#msg121456

http://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/02/17/swing-arm-lube/

I have gotten all the way through the removal and am stuck with getting the final bolt out of the bracket that holds the lower shock mount. I want to make it happen without having to remove the pipe all the way to the headers if possible. See pic below. Does anyone know any tricks for sliding this bolt out? It is a tad bit longer than the distance between it and exhaust pipe. I can flex the exhaust pipe but not quite enough to get the bolt out.



Now onto the grim reality of what I found. Not a single bolt down there had ANY grease on them - swingarm bolt or any of the shock bolts. Not a good sign.... This is what I found immediately upon pulling everything out. Click on bar at top of image for a larger view.



The swingarm bolt and lower shock mount bolt are grotesquely rusted and pitted badly. The bushing for the swingarm bolt has grease only at the ends and that grease if stained red with rust. Below is what they "cleaned up" to look like...



The two bolts are pitted beyond what I feel comfortable reusing. The bearing has imprinted marks from the needle bearings that one can feel by touch. When you look into the needle bearings that are pressed into the swingarm (both for swingarm bolt and the rear shock bolt) you can see that whatever minimal grease is there is fully caked with rust and dried out. In short, these bearings are shot. And I cannot get a photo of it, but if you look down into the bearings in the swingarm bolt hole, they are offset. By this I mean you can see the races on one side and not on the other. So the bearings need to come out. They are pressed in so I gotta figure that out.

Does anybody know the recommended interval for swingarm bearing check and regrease? I want to say that I have heard somewhere here at the forum that is is around 20K or more miles but I may be making that up. My plan for now is to take the swingarm by the dealer to see if the YES warranty will cover the damage. There was obviously little to no grease placed in here from the get go. Will let ya'll know what they say. Not expecting them to go out of their way but it never hurts to ask before doing it all myself. I have looked at the online parts fiche and it is close to $200 in parts that I will need.

But this is fair warning for all the other SuperTens out there. I am sure that mine is not an anomaly. There are likely many more out there - and with considerably higher mileage - that are just as bad. Check them now before the riding season gets into full swing.
 

avc8130

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I took mine down at the 26k service I did over winter. Mine were in much better shape than that. I repacked everything with Belray waterproof grease. Beat of luck with the dealer.

Ac

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trikepilot

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Not expecting much. I have the YES so I might as well ask. There is no excuse for this stuff to look like this at under 14k miles. They simply did not place enough (or maybe any) grease in there during assembly at the factory. I can order the parts and do it myself if needed but I figure it never hurts to ask.
 

Koinz

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Trike pilot, does it matter if the bolts are a little rusty? It's the sleeve that is in contact with the bearings anyway, isn't it? . Did you feel any play in the swing arm to suggest the bearings were toast? I haven't done mine yet, but just wondering.
 

trikepilot

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Koinz - nope... just a sixth sense feeling after reading reports of others finding no grease in there. I ride my SuperTen like a dirt bike but I do take good care of it at the same time. I just wanted to be sure before I pushed the bike ever harder. And it turns out I was justified as there was no grease in there and everything looks like crap. With all the various connections (swingarm bolt, final drive, shock assembly) I doubt that you could really ever feel any play.

It is alot more intimidating to do the job than it is actually to do. I probably had everything apart in under an hour thanks to the tutorials online. I'll either find out tomorrow morning that my YES will cover this or I'll be ordering the parts myself. I have ten days planned in WV in May and I need this bike back up and running.
 

snakebitten

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Ah, that sweet service contract pays dividends again.

The service schedule on this bike is fairly extensive. And even though I have always taken care of my own bikes in the past, I didn't follow the exact manufacturers schedule for some things.
But with the contract, my tech actually accepts accountability for doing just that. As a result, I've gotten proper service for things like swingarm bearing and shock linkage and steering head bearing and clutch-brake fluid.........

However, even with my braggadocios claims, my front wheel bearings got past him. :(

So trike, while you are down a few days, can I suggest you demo a Majesty 400?
 

trikepilot

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Oh, snap! Snake. No worries, I have the WRR to tide me over.

Even with a service contract, they would likely not go in there to check the bearings till the recommended interval which, I believe, I am well under. Were I 10+K miles over the service interval and rode in the wet all the time, I might expect my bearings to look like this. But that is not what I am dealing with...

Regardless... it will get fixed and hopefully in time for my WV trip in May.
 

tubebender

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I did mine a couple of weeks ago. 10,000 miles on mine.

Manual says to check swing arm 'for operation and excessive play' ' every 4,000 miles and a repack every 32,000 miles.

I could not find any way to get that knuckle bolt out with out dropping the pipes.

My bolts were pitted; I just smeared a grease film on them and re-used them.
Yours are worse then mine, but I wouldn't have any problem re-using those.

Another vote for seeing if you can get it replaced under warranty.

All the other rear suspension needle bearings are unusual as they are encased in some sort of pliant material.
I don't know if it's a permanent type of lube or what, but be careful if you blow high pressure air on them; they will come apart.
 

snakebitten

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Does require checking at every oil change interval. And regardless of if it checks good at 32,000, you still service it. (swing arm)
I do remember getting mine serviced. But he never said there was a problem. And it was one of those service intervals that I was required to leave the bike. Most of them are done while I wait, even if it is 3-4 hours.

 

trikepilot

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we'll see what happens. The service intervals you just posted just say check for operation and excessive play every 4k - not pull apart and inspect. That comes at 32k.

Things always operated fine and there was never any excessive play that I noticed. But they only way to see the issues I am having is to pull apart the entire system and look. That should be at 32k not at 13760 like I have.

Just dropped the Rumbux and loosed the pipe headers which gave me the room to get that bolt out. The three bearings in the aluminum shock yoke all look the same as the swingarm bearings. Makes sense to me to replace everything while I have it all apart. The added parts cost is minimal to the longevity of the bike and my peace of mind.
 

trikepilot

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cbrunsw said:
I wonder what caused it. Did the bike do lots of water crossings?
Some water crossings for sure but nothing excessive in number or frequency. Certainly less than many other bikes out there. Also it has never ridden in the rain very much either.

What caused it was inadequate factory grease to keep everything clean and to help keep out as much of the water out as possible.

Yamaha wants you to pull all this apart to clean and regrease at 32k miles. This is what mine looked like at a tad over a third of that interval.

It is just inexcusable. It is not a hard job to pop this thing apart and check and it can save alot of strife later on.
 

jimbob

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tubebender said:
All the other rear suspension needle bearings are unusual as they are encased in some sort of pliant material.
I don't know if it's a permanent type of lube or what, but be careful if you blow high pressure air on them; they will come apart.
Yep. They're all "Polylube" type bearings. They won't hold much real grease anyhow since the needles are embedded in that stuff. "String cheese" as it's commonly referred to when it comes apart (and it frequently does). I'll bet at least some of the dried up crusty stuff Trike is seeing is actually this material coming apart. Lots of threads on polylube suspension bearings over on thumpertalk.

Good advise Trike, I did my service early, 8500 miles and found enough crud to justify tearing it down...



 

~TABASCO~

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I've rebuilt about a dozen of these. 50% of them have been bone dry. The other 50% have had had a thin coat of grease.
 

trikepilot

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Hey Jaxon - when you "rebuilt" all those swingarm and shock bearings, did you do something akin to this link?

http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

Seems like the advice there is not to pack new grease on top of the MPL. I pulled some of the sleeves out to inspect the bearings inside and when I put the sleeves back in, they extruded out some of the "string cheese" that had been in there between the bearings.

I am gonna see if the YES will help first. If not, I am gonna rebuild myself and I tend to lean towards pulling out all the needles, cleaning out all the MPL, and then repacking with a high-quality waterproof bearing grease as per the link above.
 

Dirt_Dad

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Just had my swingarm pulled and greased earlier this month when I had the dealer do the valve check. They did not mention anything unusual to me, bu that doesn't mean much.

Good luck with the YES.
 

avc8130

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I slather those bolts/pivots with Belray Waterproof. The solid lubricant in the bearings, combined with the seals, do a decent job. You'll notice most of the corrosion is on the bolts. These ride in the sleeves and really have nothing to protect them. Once you cover them with waterproof grease you will be in good shape.

If you frequent water crossings or rain this area needs more attention.

ac
 

trikepilot

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The swingarm sleeve is pitted with the imprint of 6 needle bearings. The lower shock mount bolt is so corroded that it will not go back into its sleeve by hand.

This bike only has 13700 on it with next to no rain riding in my time of ownership. There have been water crossings but nothing excessive.

Bottom line is that there was little to no lube in there. Had this been a bike under a service contract like Snake's with the dealer, they would have been content to let it go another 18+k miles before they tore it apart at the recommended service interval of 32k.

I have all the parts ready to order but I am gonna hop on the WRR here soon and run it by the service department that just did my headlight recall and see what they say about whether they can cover it under my YES warranty. If not, then I will place my order this am and fix it myself.
 

~TABASCO~

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trikepilot said:
Hey Jaxon - when you "rebuilt" all those swingarm and shock bearings, did you do something akin to this link?

http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

Seems like the advice there is not to pack new grease on top of the MPL. I pulled some of the sleeves out to inspect the bearings inside and when I put the sleeves back in, they extruded out some of the "string cheese" that had been in there between the bearings.

I am gonna see if the YES will help first. If not, I am gonna rebuild myself and I tend to lean towards pulling out all the needles, cleaning out all the MPL, and then repacking with a high-quality waterproof bearing grease as per the link above.
I normally clean the area and if the 'strings' look good I just lube the rubber seals and the sleeve. I've seen a few with missing cheese... I took pictures for the customer.. Let me see if I can find them. Ill post what im talking about.. There have been several jobs that the parts are bone dry. I always clean, lube, re install and TQ to proper values..

On a similar note, I've seen many F & R axles that need attention. Clean, lube, Etc.... I guess some dealers don't care and throw back in that rusty axle when they change the customers tires.
 
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