and I thought "I" was anal!!!
Not a problem, though...galvanic action/electrolysis, is the culprit. The closer together on the galvanic scale the metals are..... the less corrosion or electrolysis will occur.
The list:
CORRODED END (ANODIC OR LEAST NOBLE)
• MAGNESIUM
• MAGNESIUM ALLOYS
• ZINC
• ALUMINUM 5052, 3004, 3003, 1100, 6053
• CADMIUM
• ALUMINUM 2117, 2017, 2024
• MILD STEEL (1018), WROUGHT IRON
• CAST IRON, LOW ALLOY HIGH STRENGTH STEEL
• CHROME IRON (ACTIVE)
• STAINLESS STEEL, 430 SERIES (ACTIVE)
• 302, 303, 304, 321, 347, 410,416, STAINLESS STEEL (ACTIVE)
• NI - RESIST
• 316, 317, STAINLESS STEEL (ACTIVE)
• CARPENTER 20 CB-3 STAINLESS (ACTIVE)
• ALUMINUM BRONZE (CA 687)
• HASTELLOY C (ACTIVE) INCONEL 625 (ACTIVE) TITANIUM (ACTIVE)
• LEAD - TIN SOLDERS
• LEAD
• TIN
• INCONEL 600 (ACTIVE)
• NICKEL (ACTIVE)
• 60 NI-15 CR (ACTIVE)
• 80 NI-20 CR (ACTIVE)
• HASTELLOY B (ACTIVE)
• BRASSES
• COPPER (CA102)
• MANGANESE BRONZE (CA 675), TIN BRONZE (CA903, 905)
• SILICON BRONZE
• NICKEL SILVER
• COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY 90-10
• COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY 80-20
• 430 STAINLESS STEEL
• NICKEL, ALUMINUM, BRONZE (CA 630, 632)
• MONEL 400, K500
• SILVER SOLDER
• NICKEL (PASSIVE)
• 60 NI- 15 CR (PASSIVE)
• INCONEL 600 (PASSIVE)
• 80 NI- 20 CR (PASSIVE)
• CHROME IRON (PASSIVE)
• 302, 303, 304, 321, 347, STAINLESS STEEL (PASSIVE)
• 316, 317, STAINLESS STEEL (PASSIVE)
• CARPENTER 20 CB-3 STAINLESS (PASSIVE), INCOLOY 825
• NICKEL - MOLYBDEUM - CHROMIUM - IRON ALLOY (PASSIVE)
• SILVER
• TITANIUM (PASS.) HASTELLOY C & C276 (PASSIVE), INCONEL 625(PASS.)
• GRAPHITE
• ZIRCONIUM
• GOLD
• PLATINUM
PROTECTED END (CATHODIC OR MOST NOBLE)
Nickle and stainless are very close on the scale, so very little corrosion. Nickle or stainless(both cathodic) and aluminum(anodic) are far apart, so aluminum being the anode, it will lose ions and thus corrode and the nickle or stainless will not.
However, to put a spin on it. As you notice on the list, not all stainless is the same, nor aluminum, so you must know exactly what metal you're dealing with before deciding how they will react to each other, and how fast.
Not trying to be a wise guy, just share "verifiable" info.
IMHO, nickle plate brass nipples would probably outlast the bike, particularly if you plan on painting the rims. And look just as good.
All that being said, having both nipples and spokes in stainless would polish up nicely, if that's what you're looking for.
Paul