Removing Cylinder Head advice

[~TABASCO~]

i sprayed some brake cleaner down the ports and im getting some leakage. So you are saying i need to buy a drill press lol dang it i shouldn't of sold it in the divorce lol

For sure... you can also double check them with a hand drill.... (as you mentioned) or just replace them to make sure...

 

[labradorian70]

After you put the new valves in you will have to adjust the clearance on each valve. I would put the cams in and do the valve adjustment on the work bench while it is easy to get to. Then after everything is back to together and timed, check the clearance again before putting the cam cover back on.

Thanks Oldrider. Will do this for sure. cheers

 

[~TABASCO~]

Agreed! The right tools are important for this job. I use these from Snap-on, they do torque and angle.View attachment 118054
*not my picture, but do own them.

@labradorian70 good luck with the job and I hope the damage isn’t too bad. Maybe insert a borescope and check through the plug holes before pulling the head?

It looks like I have that same Snap-On you have in the back of this drawer, same red case... We all need like 5-6 Torqe wrenched for all the different requirement we mess with.......

 

[labradorian70]

If this was at my place or was my bike I would barrow or just rent a valve puller at this point and pull the valves and double check them (to make sure). And then clean them and check the seats. Your 99% there to do this.. Then clean the inside the head and probably the pistons... Its hard to see very close details in the photos on weather any of them had touched. I would do everything to 'check' before putting it back together......... It's easy to pull the valves and also just eye-ball the guides.

Thanks Tabasco, I have a valve compression tool i just got on amazon. ill take look at them cheers

 

[labradorian70]

For sure... you can also double check them with a hand drill.... (as you mentioned) or just replace them to make sure...

yeah, peace of mind comes along with all new ones. But for shits and giggles I will check them all as i remove them.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Thanks Tabasco, I have a valve compression tool i just got on amazon. ill take look at them cheers

Great... Make sure they go back in the same hole..... If it was mine, I might spend just a few minutes lapping in the old valve to the seat just to "clean surface" each one real quick.... Also, take a look at each seat that the valve didnt knick the seat at all... You probably will see the small inconsistency around the circumference.

 

[labradorian70]

After you put the new valves in you will have to adjust the clearance on each valve. I would put the cams in and do the valve adjustment on the work bench while it is easy to get to. Then after everything is back to together and timed, check the clearance again before putting the cam cover back on.

....so with the cylinder head on the bench, install the cams. Im a little confused on the valve adjustment. There are spacers that need to be changed to adjust that... correct?

 

[~TABASCO~]

....so with the cylinder head on the bench, install the cams. Im a little confused on the valve adjustment. There are spacers that need to be changed to adjust that... correct?

Yep. The shims. It will all need to be put together checked, re shimmed, and checked again. Keep good notes.

 

[labradorian70]

Yep. The shims. It will all need to be put together checked, re shimmed, and checked again. Keep good notes.

thanks again

 

[labradorian70]

Ive done this job before...

Yes drain the coolant.
I believe I did remove the exhaust even if not 100% necessary so I could have the best view and ultimately take care of the head
I did support the motor I'm sure. If I remember I had to unload those upper bolts
I think you're talking about the side cover. I took out the batter and then pivot the side cover up and out of the way. I want the most room to take everything apart.

***Note, the head studs are one-time use only.. Last time I checked they had a set in Japan. I suggest having the head gasket and bolts before starting. (along with other parts or gaskets you need)........... Also you will need a degree ratchet adapter that will show rotation degree's. I believe there are three head studs that require the proper torque and then add "30* or 20*" to the base TQ numbers... dont guess on this, use the tool.

Here is what the service manual shows. Makes perfect sense about torqueing it to specified torque then going so many degree afterwards. But see circled in red 215 to 225degrees & 180-190degrees ? not sure what this means. Can't be to go 180 degrees further after hitting the torque setting?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Here is what the service manual shows. Makes perfect sense about torqueing it to specified torque then going so many degree afterwards. But see circled in red 215 to 225degrees & 180-190degrees ? not sure what this means. Can't be to go 180 degrees further after hitting the torque setting?

Ill need to go read my book.. Im sure I have notes in there from last time.... I thought my book told me to "over TQ" only three of the six bolts and from what I remember it was only like an extra 20*-30*.. (I might be wrong)

What does your page before hand and the next page after say.... This page does not talk about step torquing the six bolts before the extra degree TQ.......

 

[labradorian70]

Ill need to go read my book.. Im sure I have notes in there from last time.... I thought my book told me to "over TQ" only three of the six bolts and from what I remember it was only like an extra 20*-30*.. (I might be wrong)

What does your page before hand and the next page after say.... This page does not talk about step torquing the six bolts before the extra degree TQ.......

Here you go...I would assume I have the correct service manual.

 

[scott123007]

Here is what the service manual shows. Makes perfect sense about torqueing it to specified torque then going so many degree afterwards. But see circled in red 215 to 225degrees & 180-190degrees ? not sure what this means. Can't be to go 180 degrees further after hitting the torque setting?

To be fair, I have not done that myself so I will let Tabasco confirm or deny what I am saying, but as I read it, I think they want you to torque all the bolts first to 11 ft lbs, second to 22 ft lbs. and then turn 1,2,4 another 215 to 225 degrees, which is another approx. 5/8 of a turn, and then 3,5,6 another 180 degrees (1/2 turn.)
Hope this helps...

 

[labradorian70]

To be fair, I have not done that myself so I will let Tabasco confirm or deny what I am saying, but as I read it, I think they want you to torque all the bolts first to 11 ft lbs, second to 22 ft lbs. and then turn 1,2,4 another 215 to 225 degrees, which is another approx. 5/8 of a turn, and then 3,5,6 another 180 degrees (1/2 turn.)
Hope this helps...

That does make sense. 1st 14, 2nd 22, then 215 degrees. cheers

Thanks
Glen

 

[scott123007]

That does make sense. 1st 14, 2nd 22, then 215 degrees. cheers

Thanks
Glen

Sorry, yes, 1st 14 ft lbs.

 

[~TABASCO~]

To be fair, I have not done that myself so I will let Tabasco confirm or deny what I am saying, but as I read it, I think they want you to torque all the bolts first to 11 ft lbs, second to 22 ft lbs. and then turn 1,2,4 another 215 to 225 degrees, which is another approx. 5/8 of a turn, and then 3,5,6 another 180 degrees (1/2 turn.)
Hope this helps...

I’m looking at my book. Yes. This is correct. Ive grabbed my degree tool. Yes this makes sense.

 

[labradorian70]

Thanks

I’m looking at my book. Yes. This is correct. Ive grabbed my degree tool. Yes this makes sense.

perfect thanks

 

[labradorian70]

I’m looking at my book. Yes. This is correct. Ive grabbed my degree tool. Yes this makes sense.

Update:!

I finally got around to changing out the Valves and putting the cylinder head back on. I'm doing the valve clearance checks and have some questions.

The existing valve spacers(Pads) in the bike are
^Front of Bike^
192, 194, 192, 191
205, 206, 208, 208

Measurements taken with feeler guages
0.23,0.16 0.16,0.27
0.08,0.14 0.09,0.11

But the replacement spacers from yamaha are rounded to the nearest 5. 190, 195, 200(1.9mm,1.95mm, 2.0mm) etc. I wanted to aim at the middle of the tolerance range of 0.10-0.16 for the intake and 0.22-0.28 for the exhaust but It looks like you can only get it into the range by rounding up or down to the nearest 5.

Here are what I should end up after replacing the spacers, some will stay where they are, 1 will move and some new ones. ...
Clearances as follows
0.25(190), 0.25(185), 0.23(185), 0.27(191)
0.14(200), 0.14(206), 0.12(205), 0.14(205)

1. Are these spacers only available from Yamaha?
2. Does it matter if my clearances fall into the lower of the limit VS the high end of the limit? or as long as they are within the range im good.

Thanks

 

[~TABASCO~]

Update:!

I finally got around to changing out the Valves and putting the cylinder head back on. I'm doing the valve clearance checks and have some questions.

The existing valve spacers(Pads) in the bike are
^Front of Bike^
192, 194, 192, 191
205, 206, 208, 208

Measurements taken with feeler guages
0.23,0.16 0.16,0.27
0.08,0.14 0.09,0.11

But the replacement spacers from yamaha are rounded to the nearest 5. 190, 195, 200(1.9mm,1.95mm, 2.0mm) etc. I wanted to aim at the middle of the tolerance range of 0.10-0.16 for the intake and 0.22-0.28 for the exhaust but It looks like you can only get it into the range by rounding up or down to the nearest 5.

Here are what I should end up after replacing the spacers, some will stay where they are, 1 will move and some new ones. ...
Clearances as follows
0.25(190), 0.25(185), 0.23(185), 0.27(191)
0.14(200), 0.14(206), 0.12(205), 0.14(205)

1. Are these spacers only available from Yamaha?
2. Does it matter if my clearances fall into the lower of the limit VS the high end of the limit? or as long as they are within the range im good.

Thanks

Let me print this... I need to do the conversion for these specs and work the formula I am use too.... I will be happy to help but would probably be best if we get into the deep details to take it off of this and use the PM...... Only because, as you and I are in the middle of getting yours all straight, it will end up people chiming in and screwing with the "exactness".....

No, you dont have to use yamaha shims. You can find those shims from CRF450 , Etc... I get mine from "hot-cams" normally. There prices have gone up over the last few years for sure. I also have a whole pile of stock shims from Japan. These are AWESOME because they are typically the absolute correct thickness I need, and no need to round up or down. I typically adjust all eight dead in the middle unless they are already on my target number when I take it apart. I recently did mine and six we're not dead in the middle and two of the intake were... I adjusted the six.

After doing my math, If I find that it calls for a 193 (for example) I try to install a 193-192-194.... Recently I have taken the "193" and put a set of micrometers on them to check what they claim they are. They are often off by 1-2... So I started mic' ing them all to dial in as close as I can get.....

Being that Yamaha obviously provides a "window", I like to have them as close as possible in the middle and I find that it runs the best for the longest time when I try to be its best....... Ive ridden many Tenere bikes that are "out" versus "in" spec back to back.... Its pretty shocking to me the difference in 'valve clearance'.................

Be prepared for some folks to chime in and say that they have never touched there motor and it still runs fine. Or it's been done and it's "good enough"..... those are certainly 'options'. Im somewhat on the other side, If Ive got it all apart, why not do the best job possible. So that is the info you can expect from me -

 

[labradorian70]

Let me print this... I need to do the conversation for these specs and work the formula I am use too.... I will be happy to help but would probably be best if we get into the deep details to take it off of this and use the PM...... Only because, as you and I are in the middle of getting yours all straight, it will end up people chiming in and screwing with the "exactness".....

No, you dont have to use yamaha shims. You can find those shims from CRF450 , Etc... I get mine from "hot-cams" normally. There prices have gone up over the last few years for sure. I also have a whole pile of stock shims from Japan. These are AWESOME because they are typically the absolute correct thickness I need, and no need to round up or down. I typically adjust all eight dead in the middle unless they are already on my target number when I take it apart. I recently did mine and six we're not dead in the middle and two of the intake were... I adjusted the six.

After doing my math, If I find that it calls for a 193 (for example) I try to install a 193-192-194.... Recently I have taken the "193" and put a set of machines calipers on them to check what they claim they are. They are often off by 1-2... So I started mic' ing them all to dial in as close as I can get.....

Being that Yamaha obviously provides a "window", I like to have them as close as possible in the middle and I find that it runs the best for the longest time when I try to be its best....... Ive ridden many Tenere bikes that are "out" versus "in" spec back to back.... Its pretty shocking to me the difference in 'valve clearance'.................

Be prepared for some folks to chime in and say that they have never touched there motor and it still runs fine. Or it's been done and it's "good enough"..... those are certainly 'options'. Im somewhat on the other side, If Ive got it all apart, why not do the best job possible. So that is the info you can expect from me -

THanks I ordered the shims from Yamaha today. Once I install I will remeasure and go from there.